Reading up on Chergui by Lutens will permit you to find diverse note listings. Almost every site has a different set of accords and as such, I decided to list the above as none of that holds much water anyway. The proof is in the smell.
Only recently have I purchased a sample, so I can assume that what I am reviewing is most likely the newest formula. I would like to start out by saying that Chergui has terrific presence and an envious swirl effect.
There's a spicy aspect to Chergui that offsets the opening nicely. It's a mellow spice and its existence is realized about 5 minutes into the wearing. It's about this stage of transition that I admit to Chergui already being a winner. It begins to evolve a more pronounced sweetness, yet stops short of becoming cloying. The initial two accords have won me over and have me hoping I will enjoy the remainder of the scent.
Once Chergui begins to dry down, the sweet ambacco accord is still prominent on my skin. This tandem is so good that it has every right to still be walking point. The listed leather, sandalwood, honey and iris don't come to pass as individual or even identifiable notes. They seem to be a stacked entity that assembles itself to exist under the ambacco.
I have had my differences with Serge in the past. I've also been fortunate in that my recent sample ventures of Mr. Eclectic's creations have been positive ones. Chergui, by far, has been the most appealing and pleasurable to wear so far. I thoroughly enjoyed Chene enough to put it on my future purchase list, but now that I've experienced Chergui, Chene must go farther back in the line. Big thumbs up for the Serge and his beautiful ambacco.