Thursday, June 24, 2010
Tuberose Disappointments: Thierry Mugler's A Travers Le Miroir & Guerlain's Mahora
Thierry Mugler: A Travers Le Miroir
This is in no way related to Tubereuse Criminelle, despite a number of people noting a similarity to the Lutens fragrance. To my nose, its closest relative is Caron's L'Anarchiste, due to a shared cedar-leaf accord. In fact, I'd say this considerably out-does L'Anarchiste in the metal L'Anarchiste is famous for ( I've always felt L'Anarchiste's copper stopped at the bottle ). The entire thing is dominated by a searing metal tang that's is very edgy but not that uncommon. There are certain chemicals often used in cheap men's products that have a harsh metallic edge, and whatever they are, there's buckets of them in here. It's the olfactory equivalent of biting down hard on a quarter.
Tuberose? I can't smell tiniest hint of floral sweetness, buttery richness, or floral headiness that makes tuberose what it is. It's not even some weird, alien tuberose like Caron's Tubereuse. I get metal and cedar leaves, followed by more metal. It's extremely synthetic overall.
So, to sum it up - I can't stand it! And to think, given all the lilting praise of this, I nearly bought it blind...
House: Thierry Mugler
Perfumer: Alexis Dadier
Release Date: 2008
It's not awful, but I'm underwhelmed. If I had to describe it in one sentence, I'd call it "Sub-par buttery tuberose", and that's about it. Coconut and tuberose, and just a hint of cheesiness that skips over gardenia and heads right to the faintest whiff of Doritos. It's not very floral smelling for a floral, and its nearest tuberose kin is probably Caron's Tubereuse, minus a lot of that fragrance's depth and oddity.
Perfumer: Jean Paul Guerlain
Release Date: 2000