Posts

Showing posts from April, 2014

Satyr by Bud Parfums

Image
Labdanum, Oakmoss, Orange Blossom, Jasmine, Patchouli, Galbanum, Nutmeg, Vetiver. The very first impression I experienced during the initial wearing of Satyr was "classic". Immediately following that was that it was somewhat reminiscent of KL Homme. It's the combination of sweet, spice and earth tones that are making this comparison come to fruition. No, it's not a clone folks. There are other masculines I've smelled and ones I own that can claim that as well. That said, let it be known that this is a masculine fragrance and possibly a bit of a stretch for the ladies to pull off comfortably. Satyr, on my skin at least, exhibits a concentrated feel. It's bold, has depth and you can tell from the top accord that this fragrance has longevity. It assuredly wears stronger than most EDT's and even in the heart accord and beyond, I still can smell the relationship to KL Homme. Trust me when I say that it is not a drawback. I happen to enjoy this particu

CK be by Calvin Klein

Image
Bergamot, Lavender, Mint, Juniper, Mandarin, Menthol, Green Notes. Jasmine, Orchid, Freesia, Herbs, Magnolia, Peach. Cedar, Amber, Vanilla, Musk, Sandalwood, Opoponax. When I finally purchased a bottle of CK be at my local TJMAXX, I had never had the opportunity to wear it before. Another blind buy and another chance to be disappointed. The odds aren't all that good, considering that Calvin isn't exactly an impressive fragrance house to purchase in this fashion. There are some CK releases I like, some I don't, with the remaining ones falling into the "who cares" category. CK be lands in the middle somewhere. It's pleasant and unremarkable. Sound familiar? That said, the price point for this 100ml. bottle justified my leaving the store with it. In spite of my now finding it somewhat innocuous, I would buy it again for the price I paid. I suppose my biggest beef with CK be is it simply doesn't last long enough. The opening is enjoyable and the tran

Gap The Lover

Image
Apricot, Mint Leaves, Patchouli. I've been meaning to snag a bottle of this for a few years now and I finally got around to it. To be exact, I purchased 2 NIB 50ml. on auction because the price was perfect. Lo and behold, when they arrived, both sprayers were damaged and 25% of each bottle had leaked. I own a few Gap Individual fragrances and while they don't have "quality" spray mechanisms, none have this defect. I really wanted to keep one of these unopened, but oh well.......... That frustration aside, I decided to keep them and simply decant what remained into a good sized atomizer and call it good. I did so mainly because The Lover smells nice. This is a fruitchouli that has a little more going on than the 3 listed notes. There's a mild citrus in the opening accord, yet I experience no mint or mentholated quality whatsoever. The first few minutes however reveal a pleasant Bergamot mingled with a "fruit" aspect that I don't recognize as A

Magic Nights by Marilyn Miglin

Image
Bergamot, Mandarin, Blackcurrant, Jasmine, Cloves, Narcissus, Ylang-Ylang, Vetiver, Amber, Bourbon Vanilla. The mini I am sampling is an Eau de Parfum. I picked up this 11ml. splash locally along with 5 others in a Miglin set. They were all new and from what I can smell, completely intact and well kept. I can't say the "strength" is exactly in keeping of EDP's I normally encounter, but that may be me splitting hairs. The overall aroma is surprisingly good, feminine and fresh. It's not as spicy as I had anticipated and that isn't necessarily a bad thing. Magic Nights seems to be tuned for low impact, but it's still capable of making an impression. This is a floriental, with an emphasis on the floral components. The citric rendition in the opening accord is fleeting and soon gives deference to its floral heart. Whatever spices that do come to fruition are accentuating features at best. They embellish the well mannered green, foliage and soft violet t

38°N 16°E by Richard Luscher Britos

Image
Bergamot Oil, Orange Blossom, Sandalwood, Incense. Easily the most simplistic of the Terroir releases, 38°N 16°E is all about Bergamot. Dedicated citrus fragrances aren't for everyone and in spite of the listed Blossom, Sandalwood and Incense, this creation is, at least on my skin, an experience of straight up Bergamot. The opening is a beautiful rendition of Blossom and Bergamot, but within 3 minutes the Blossom winds down and allows Bergamot front and center position. I've said it before and will reiterate that Blossom has a tendency to gain momentum and take over a large portion of a composition. Not so with 38°N 16°E. The vibrancy of the top accord, although fleeting, is one of the things that keeps me sampling manifold fragrances. It's so bright and succinct that, whatever follows it is destined to be ( at least ) a slight disappointment. What the wearer has to understand is that 38°N 16°E is an uncomplicated citrus creation. This genre is not known for other

14°S-48°E by Richard Luscher Britos

Image
Ylang-Ylang, Mandarin, Pink Peppercorn, Cocoa, Vetiver, Vanilla, Roasted Corn. A cacophony of bitter and sweet spiciness wash over you as soon as you apply 14°S-48°E. The combination of what must be Mandarin peel integrated with Ylang is an extraordinary aroma. I can't say it's the most pleasant accord I've smelled, because it isn't. However, it sure is interesting and after 5 minutes, the insertion of vetiver into the transition enhances that feeling. The opening accord is a bit Lutenesque on my skin, but 14°S-48°E evolves quickly enough that my comparison is a fleeting memory. These are earth tones implemented well, but unless you have a proclivity for these elements, this may only garner your respect. At its very essence, 14°S-48°E is a vetiver fragrance that attempts to appeal to the sensibilities of both genders. To me, it still leans masculine, but it's not as overtly so as others featuring this note. There's a smokiness that almost gives the illus

Coriolan by Guerlain

Image
Bergamot, Lemon Leaves, Neroli, Sage, Citrus. Ginger, Juniper, Nutmeg, Ylang-Ylang, Wormwood, Sandalwood, Basil, Pepper, Coriander. Patchouli, Vetiver, Benzoin, Leather, Oakmoss. Coriolan is named after a Roman General who lived in the 5th century before Christ. Coriolan, the fragrance, to me at least is a tale of 2 scents and it's perfectly fitting, since the ancient General had 2 important chapters in his life. One as a hero who was then exiled. The next commanding enemies of Rome to besiege the city. I wouldn't go so far to say that Coriolan performs, on my skin, like a schizophrenic fragrance, but I do find it a bit disjointed. I was under the incorrect impression, before ever wearing Coriolan, that it would be akin to Derby or at least share some continuity with it. As it happens, I find these 2 completely and utterly different in every way. Coriolan opens with a bracing and sharp citrus accented with spices and herbs. It's good mind you, but in an old school

44°N-3° by Richard Luscher Britos

Image
Lavender, Chestnut, Pine, Juniper, Vanilla. I cannot help but be reminded that this smells like something that Caron could have created. It has a classic vibe to it, due to the combination of Lavender and Vanilla. It wears like you'd expect a well made scent to do and leans a bit dense. The first few minutes are invigorating and I can almost smell the stones in the fragrance description. Evolving effortlessly from that is the herbal quality accented with pine. I can imagine a hillside, sloping upwards, with jutting rocks, boulders, shrubbery and lavender, with pine toward the skyline. This accord basically unravels at once, with Vanilla clawing its way into the sunlight. Word has it that Andy Tauer is the nose behind this creation and as we all know, he is very talented. On one hand, there's nothing new here yet 44°n-3° is an enjoyable wear. I don't feel as if I'm wearing a dated fragrance like others in this category can do. I'm not quite sure why that is

46°N 08°E by Richard Luscher Britos

Image
Pine, Gentian, Lichen, Campfire. 46°N 08° opens with a very nice, aromatic blast of what reminds me of green and whiffs of smoke on a breeze. It's a lucid top accord that settles quickly, while maintaining a biting green and smoky character. I use the term biting in place of bitter because it's not quite that. It's somewhere between biting and bracing and this aspect of the scent is tuned well. The smoke, at least on my skin, evolves into more of an incense rendition within a few minutes. I believe it's this, in addition to Gentian, that keep this a little edgy. 46°n-08° also wears linear on me after the first few minutes. What develops, then remains is an aloof incense with intermittent green woven throughout. As simple as 46°n-08° really is, I find it a pleasant wear, although not terribly exciting. It would be fitting if you were in the mood for an aroma like this and simply wanted to spray and go. There's nothing bold, offensive or groundbreaking prese

04°N 74°W by Richard Luscher Britos

Image
Gardenia, Orchid, Rose, Hyacinth, Lily, Arabic Coffee. First, a big thanks to Mia Von Trost from Parfumo for sending me samples representing the Terrior perfumes from this house located in Switzerland. Just a casual sniff of the sprayer had me intrigued. Out of the 5 representative fragrances, I decided on this one first for no particular reason. Jumping the gun a bit, I have to say I love the "coffee note" in this. For me, I always seem to experience the suggestion of such notes and rarely ( if ever ) a literal interpretation. This rendition however is right in my wheelhouse and is the perfect counterpoint to the Gardenia. I am persuaded that it consists of spices and wood; namely sandalwood. It possess similarities to the version in my vintage Santal Noble by MPG. Now, please don't misinterpret that I'm claiming this is a Santal Noble clone. What I am stating is that if you miss the coffee note in the original et Gantier, this version may just satisfy your

Just a little somethin somethin about some Ebay sellers..............

Image
Yea, we've all heard the stories ranging from bad to outright horrendous when discussing the bay on forums. Fragrance purchasers have been sold fakes, switched or rancid scents or simply outright spanked for their money. What we don't hear enough about are the good sellers. Yes, good sellers who use the bay to do business. Are they the minority? Human nature will have us automatically thinking "of course they're the minority" !!! Honestly, I don't know if they are or aren't as I've been fortunate enough, over the years, to have dealt with mostly honorable sellers. In that group of good sellers, there is even a smaller contingent of people who go the extra mile and restore your faith, in not only purchasing there, but in people. Common sense dictates there's going to be good and bad, with a good dollop of gray area, thrown in for general principles. This is why I'm persuaded to post this because sellers who quietly going about doing ni

Liz Claiborne by Liz Claiborne

Image
Bergamot, Carnation, Freesia, Green Notes, Lilly, Mandarin, Marigold, Peach. Jasmine, Lilac, Muguet, Narcissus, Rose, Tuberose, Violet, Ylang-Ylang. Amber, Musk, Oakmoss, Sandalwood. This 1986 fruity floral happens to be a personal favorite of a family member, so when I was presented with the chance to pick up a bottle with box for under $3.00, it was the perfect opportunity for me to sample a few full wearings. Now, the purchase wasn't a cheap way to get her a gift. I've already gifted her with a big bottle before. This was for my collection and there's enough here ( 30ml. ) to get the gist of what makes this her go-to scent. We all know the 1980's were indicative of "big". Excess seemed to be the order of the day whether it was hair, fragrance or even spending. Liz Claiborne however, only represents that quality in the reflection of listed notes. It's chock full of them as you can see, yet isn't overstated on presence, sillage or longevit

Passion for Men by Elizabeth Taylor

Image
Bergamot, Lemon, Neroli, Fruit Notes, Orange, Galbanum, Lavender. Balsam Fir, Carnation, Cinnamon, Cedar, Geranium, Jasmine, Nutmeg, Patchouli, Sandalwood. Amber, Benzoin, Oakmoss, Musk, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Vetiver. In January of 2014, I decided I needed to streamline my wardrobe and seriously downsize my collection. Naturally, I've sold NOT ONE and have accumulated at least 50 more bottles. Sick you say? I'm inclined to agree and my justifications are always price point. I recently picked up Passion for Men NIB 120ml. Cologne Spray and same size After Shave for $7.00 US. I figure even if I hate my purchases, I can always get it back on auction........but that is contingent on me ever listing anything......... Enter Elizabeth Taylor's Passion for Men. Now, I have no idea how many times this has been reformulated since its 1989 debut. Personally, I now have an interest in comparing them because I actually like this current version. It's also depressing, becaus

Leonard Pour Homme ( Revised )

Image
Bergamot, Basil, Lavender, Marjoram, Petitgrain, Thyme. Artemesia, Carrot, Cedar, Carnation, Cinnamon, Jasmine, Iris, Patchouli, Vetiver. Amber, Castoreum, Leather, Labdanum, Oakmoss, Musk. So, you think you like dark and serious masculine scents? Have you tried Leonard pour Homme? If your answer is no, keep reading please and you may decide to either keep on going or snag yourself a sample of this soon. Leonard PH is a somber wear on my skin. It's classically constructed, to a fault, with a rather obvious nod to the late 1970's and early 80's. I'm 57 years old and while this may have been released in my prime, I have always found it a bit stodgy. Now, this doesn't mean that Leonard PH isn't good or well made because it is. It simply boils down to a matter of taste and preference. I first reviewed this in Nov 2009 and decided to revise my opinion simply because my original review was not to my liking. My opinion remains the same however and Leonard