Il Mondi Odore Perfume Reviews

Il Mondi Odore Perfume Reviews

Monday, April 5, 2021

Pour Lui EDP by Yellowstone Parfums

 

Lavender, Atlas Cedar, Sandalwood, Musks, Amber, Vanilla Bean, Benzoin, Tolu Balsam.

Two things come to my mind when I spray this on my skin. The first is that this is a strong top accord in terms of projection. The second thing is that this reminds me of a particular release from a certain designer house back in the 1980's ( I'll mention no names ), but this isn't a replica by any means. It shares DNA and to be honest, I like this better.

The combination of Lavender with an outspoken Vanilla note is a love it or hate it marriage. I've always either liked it or was indifferent to it, depending upon the overall scent. Pour Lui seems to have captured the right amounts of listed notes to settle on this beast of an opening. It calms down within 5 minutes and retains a friendly posture that has good longevity and just smells good. It's very uncomplicated and I think that was the point. It's fully developed right out of the chute. The only things that changes on my skin is overall volume.


What I noticed ( and liked ) from the onset was the contribution from Tolu Balsam. Just enough warmth, resin and the suggestion of florals to balance out the heavy handedness of the Lavenderized Vanilla. Even wearing this for 30 minutes, I find myself sniffing this quite a bit, which is usually a sign that I'm enamored with what I happen to be wearing. This isn't a youthful, playful scent, It's also not a stodgy, dated classic. If I had to classify this, it's a mature, semi-sweet masculine that features a Balsamic Vanilla that gives me the impression of both formal and office wear ability.
The listed Musk does its job of lending a cohesiveness and longevity to the Woods and Vanilla. Even well past the shelf life of top notes, I still detect the Lavender that seems to be cemented into this one trick pony of a fragrance. I don't say that in a derogatory way. I have, in my wardrobe, numerous one trick ponies that I enjoy to this day. It's not always about transitions. The totality, for me, is the most important thing on whether I pull the trigger on something......or not. Pour Lui is definitely a contender for the cool to cold months.



In closing, it's obvious to anyone reading that I like this fragrance. Pour Lui is a simple masculine with presence. It's really a comfort scent of sorts. I can imagine cozying up to someone special wearing this once Pour Lui dries down. It lingers quite awhile as a skin scent and the only change in aroma during the dry down is that the resin quality is better integrated at this stage. It has an equal footing instead of being an accent.

Thumbs up from Aromi for Yellwostone's Pour Lui. As I usually do, a sample wear is highly recommended for any fragrance I review since perfume is such a subjective experience. Keep in mind I recommend this for Fall and Winter. I feel it would be too heavy for warm temperatures, but that's just me. This should be a successful sample wear for anyone who gravitates towards Masculines with a Lavender-Vanilla opening and a Balsamic-Vanilla finish.


Friday, April 2, 2021

Gentleman EDP by Yellowstone Parfums

Bergamot, Green Notes, Spices, Floral Accord, Woods, Oakmoss
Absolute, Patchouli, Smoke, Vetiver.

Gentleman surprised me in the sense that I "expected" a Patchouli driven vehicle due to my ingrained connection to Givenchy's vintage release of the same name. Not so Grasshoppa. The opening of Yellowstone's Gentleman is a herbaceous, green accord that manages to stick around for basically the life of the scent. It's more along the lines of Homme de Gres, but denser and longer lasting.

The top accord, on my skin, is very durable and lasts much longer than most. You can detect the other players underneath supporting this fresh green aura, yet during my wearings, they never truly conquer the opening. It's as if Gentleman blows out of the bottle fully developed. That's fine by me because I like this accord and the fragrance has good longevity.





The listed "Green Notes", Oakmoss and Vetiver are the dominant DNA players in Gentleman. Together, they are herbal and earthy, yet smooth and there's a "breeziness" to this that I find hard to explain. I don't mean that in the sense of Ozone or Marine-type notes. It's simply they way they interact that gives me this impression. Overall, this scent is a throw-back, but viable and doesn't wear like a fragrance that's dated. Certain fragrances do that to me, but not this one.

So, where's the Patchouli I expected? I believe it's in there contributing to the earth tones and is in the lineup as a supporting player. The smokiness is subtle and smells like a very soft incense and myrrh. I could be remiss about that, but I'm quite sure I detect Myrrh in the mix and it's a note I've always liked. I wouldn't have anticipated it being incorporated into a "green" fragrance, but this isn't exactly a typical green release. I suppose none of that matters as long as the totality smells good.




In closing, I find Yellowstone's Gentleman an enjoyable wear with a new take on an established theme. I like that it lasts longer than most designers I've owned in this genre. It's versatile enough for casual and work-wear and assuredly not a polarizing fragrance. This new House is definitely home-spun, but that's the beauty of entrepreneurship. Every so often, someone gets it right. Thumbs up from Aromi for Yellowstone's Gentleman and as always, a sample wear is highly recommended.


Wednesday, March 24, 2021

Anzar EDP by Yellowstone Parfums

 

Orange, Bergamot, Rose, Jasmine, Vetiver, Castoreum, Oud, Agarwood, Saffron, Birch Tar, Cedarwood, Amber, Labdanum, Benzoin, Leather.

Anzar's opening is a cacophony of notes. I detect Oud, Agar, Citrus, Woods and smoke from Birch Tar. Within minutes, there's a leathery element attaching itself to the accord. To me, this is masculine all the way and this aroma is what stays with me for almost the entire wearing. I say almost because at the end, Amber makes an appearance due to the other players finally dissipating.

In the past 10 years, I've owned numerous Ouds from Niche and Designer alike. The two I have really liked were niche releases ( Oud for Love by TDC and Mona's original Oud before her untimely passing ).  The designer Ouds were okay, but nothing special and I sold them off. Anzar wears more like a Niche Oud, but it's nothing like the aforementioned, luxury ouds ( as I like to call them). Anzar is like a masculine cousin from a rough neighborhood.



Now, do I like Anzar? Yea, I like it, but I don't love it. In its defense, there hasn't been an Oud release I've loved. Like is as good as it gets for me with this note. Would I wear Anzar? Absolutely. I'd wear this in the cool to cold months due to its characteristics. I dig the smokiness in this. It's obviously front and center, but it pairs well with the woods and leathery notes.

The overall volume is acceptable. It's not too loud and within an hour it has relaxed in intensity and throw. It's more a personal space scent by this time, but this can also be attributed to olfactory fatigue from incessantly smelling this as I wear it. There's nothing elegant about Anzar, but I wouldn't go so far as to call it brutish either. Rather, I perceive it as a manly cold weather fragrance that would serve as a nice alternative to others in the designer world.



In summary, Anzar is an interesting take on a note that has innumerable versions to choose from out there in the fragrance world. Anzar also concludes the 4 sample wear reviews I've chosen to do on Yellowstone Parfums.

If this was available in 5ml. atomizers, I'd pick one up for the winter months. I just don't wear Ouds enough to warrant more than that since I've downsized my wardrobe drastically over the years.


I'm going to give Anzar a neutral rating in spite of my liking it more than a slew of designer Ouds I've offloaded. For those who like Oud and Agarwood, this would probably be an interesting sample wear. Overall, I've liked what I've smelled from this new house and I'll eventually get around to reviewing the other 4 samples I have from their lineup. It's good to see small, Indie houses entering the fragrance arena. God only knows I've had enough buyers remorse from frags bought from established and well known houses.


Tuesday, March 23, 2021

Sandalo Cafe EDP by YellowstoneParfums

 


Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Cinnamon, Coffee, Myrrh, Amber

Vanilla.

The first thing I have to say about this particular fragrance pertains to the Coffee note. I've owned multiple releases of MPG's Santal Noble, over the years and a few had different renditions of a coffee note implemented. I love Santal Noble and still have a bottle of the original release. It's like a Holy Grail frag to me. Enter Sandalo Cafe. This version of a coffee note is intriguing to say the least. It's immediate straight out of the bottle and to me, it smells like a Cinnamonized Mocha Latte layered with Sandalwood. It's one of those eccentric openings that I keep sniffing. The amazing thing for me is that this "opening" stays around for quite awhile. It's like Sandalo Cafe has 2 accords instead of 3 and from the initial spray, you get what I just described until the dry down commences to reveal a pleasant woody Van-Amber.




Even as the Sandalwood note dissipates during the course of the wearing, it's still evident and smells extremely appealing to me merged with this spiced up Mocha Latte or whatever the hell it is. It's more prominent than the Sandalwood, yet it smells like it's supposed to be that way. Somehow, it never shuts out the Wood notes. Instead, it rides on top of them like riding a wave of Sandal and Cedar. As a sandalwood frag lover, as different as this is, I like it quite a bit. I've owned numerous Sandalwood frags, that will go unnamed, that didn't smell as intriguing as this.


Now, nothing tops 2 Sandalwood frags for me and those are the original Santal Noble and Profumum Roma's Santalum. Outside of those 2 standouts, this one is eccentric enough and smells good enough to make it into my wardrobe. No, it won't be for everyone, but if you like Sandalwood, you should at least sample this. Thumbs up from Aromi for YellowstoneParfums Sandalo Cafe and as always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Monday, March 22, 2021

Patchouly EDP by Yellowstone Parfums ( AKA Orange Patchoulias )


Dark Patchouli, Woods, Citrus, Amber, Labdanum, Vanilla Bean, Musk, Incense, Castoreum.

I'm a self avowed sucker for Patchouli. I pretty much like them all and the ones I presently own and no longer have consisted of varying interpretations of the note. I admit to finding redeeming qualities in basically all of them.

Yellowstone Patchouly is no exception. There's a noticeable Orange note in the opening salvo and even beyond. I like this combination. This particular citrus note is married to the Patchouli and I find it well integrated. For the first 5 minutes or so, it's all about a smooth Patchouli infused with orange. After the 5 minute mark, I can begin to smell the mild resin and Vanilla making their appearance. This is not loud or boisterous. Even the opening volley has manners. I say that thinking of Bois 1920 Real Patchouly, who barnstorms the wearer with their opening accord. Make no mistake, I still own Real Patchouly and actually like it more now than when I bought it years ago. It just so happens that it's in-your-face, at least for the top notes. Yellowstone Patchouly is more even keeled and the patchouli note itself is different.

As far as the musk and castoreum are concerned, they only offer subtle support in this accord structure. I do detect a light-hearted smoke and it's tuned just right. It's unobtrusive and lends just enough to accent the main players of Patch, Citrus, Vanilla Bean and a resinous undertone. 20 minutes in and beyond, Patchouly has become warmer from the onset of the Labdanum and Vanilla, yet the orange is still going stride for stride with the Patchouli note. The more I smell this, the more I like it and from what I perceive, this is genderless. The Musk integrates itself, on my skin, around 30 minutes in and is transparent.


It seems to keep the main players going, yet I only get periodic whiffs of it. These are not notes I'm accustomed to seeing in a Patchouli accord structure, but it works rather well. What I truly like is that the Labdanum and Vanilla Bean stay in their lane the entire time the Patchouli is strutting its stuff. It's not until the dry down, at least on me, that they outlast the Orange Patchoulias.

Thumbs up from Aromi for Yellowstone's Patchouly. As I always do, I recommend a sample wear for every fragrance I review. I perceive if a person likes Patchouli, they'll like this. It is, after all, a love it or hate it note.

Sunday, March 21, 2021

Cedre EDP by Yellowstone Parfums

 

Atlas Cedarwood, Musk, Floral Note, Fruit Note, Vetiver, Oakmoss Absolute.

Yellowstone Parfums is new and they have 8 fragrances listed on their site as of now. I'm going to systematically review half of them because they feature predominant notes I've always gravitated to. Cedarwood is one of those notes, however, as much as I like it, the one problem I've had with a few I've owned (for example Tumulte PH and Gucci ) is that they smell great, but have poor longevity on my skin. 

Cedre opens with a bracing shot of Cedarwood and some sort of anonymous smelling heart note. Perhaps it's the fruit listed, but it compliments the in-your-face woods. I like it and I like that this rendition of the featured note is front and center, not to mention rough around the edges. Nothing here to smooth out the opening for the first 5 minutes. The Cedar note stays center stage for about 10 minutes on my skin before softening enough to permit the accompanying notes to augment the heart and base.




Whatever floral and fruit notes are mentioned seem to bolster the Cedar and add accents to the woods without really revealing who or what they are. I can tell they're there, but can't distinguish identities.

The Musk is present from the onset, but takes the baton from the Cedar about 10 minutes into the wearing. The Cedar is still there, but now is a background note. That transition is one I like. The anonymous players are now accenting the musk instead of the woods. The combination of Oakmoss and Vetiver with the Musk is different, yet appealing.

Once the Musk is up front and the base comes to fruition, the Oakmoss compliments it more than the Vetiver. I get hints of Vetiver, but it comes and goes, peeking out from behind the Mossy-Musk intermittently. This is a base accord that's uncomplicated but to my liking.



The rendition of Musk implemented isn't of the skanky or feral variety. This is clean, transparent but noticeable. It works well with the other notes and allows them to reveal themselves, in spite of the Musk being a key player here. 30 minutes in and Cedre is still going at a good volume.

For those who like Cedar and Musk fragrances, this one should make your "try" list. Thumbs up from Aromi for Yellowstone Parfums Cedre and as always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Wednesday, December 16, 2020

Patchouli Magique by Novaya Zarya

 

Top : Bergamot, Lemon

Heart : Sandalwood, Incense, Patchouli, Labdanum

Base : Vanilla, Musk


I'm not quite sure when this Russian Patchouli was initially released, nor am I sure which rendition of Patchouli Magique I actually have. I have the bottle and box pictured. Most images I've seen, over the years, are in different bottles. The formula may or may not have ever changed. I have no way of knowing as I've tried to score a bottle for years.




I recently found a stateside seller who had this, so I pulled the trigger. It was a 25ml. spray with box and had about 5ml. missing. I've read the reviews, where I could find them and most were positive. I now know why people have liked this one.

So, is it really magic, or at least magical? No, but it is a worthy, lighthearted patchouli with a very comfortable dry down. To me, that's where the magic lies.


Patchouli Magique opens with a slightly alcoholic blast of biting citrus that already has musk integrated into the opening accord. Within 2 minutes, a suggestion of incense that never gets smoky and sandalwood. At around the 3 minute mark, I'm already in the heart of this scent and I'm okay with that. I like it.

The woods and earth are dry and that anemic incense note is rather well played. It stays back far enough to never intrude, but it lets you know it's in the room. If Patchouli Magique decided to stay in this stage, I wouldn't be mad. I'm enjoying this dry-ish sandalwood-patch accord and I can tell you, it's neither loud nor gender specific.

At around the 30 minute mark, a comforting Van-Amber accord creeps in and underpins the earthy sandalwood. It's still dry and just a hint of resin appears. This is the totality of Patchouli Magique. Now, the box has Russian and English and there is the word PARFUM on it. I would not say this is perfume strength. It's an EDT at best and that's in line with a few other Zarya masculines I've owned in the past. Longevity is only a few hours before dissipating into a skin scent.

Even though performance lacks in the area of staying power, I like this scent. It's a very wearable Patchouli that has the patchouli note paired with others that give it a run for its money ; namely the woods. Thumbs up from Aromi for Novaya Zarya's Magic Patchouli. As always, a sample wear is recommended before purchase, although that may be difficult due to USA availability.

Wednesday, December 9, 2020

Bugatti by Ettore Bugatti

 

Aldehydes, Bergamot, Clary Sage, Lemon, Lime, Neroli, Rosewood

Carnation, Cedarwood, Jasmine, Iris, Patchouli, Rose, Sandalwood

Amber, Benzoin, Castoreum, Labdanum, Leather, Oak moss, Musk, Tonka Bean, Vanilla

This 1992 release from Ettore Bugatti is a literal boatload of ingredients that has classic masculine aficionados rubbing their hands together in anticipation. I know I looked at the accords and said "Damn" out loud.

There is a Basenoter, by the name of Andre Moreau who has researched this particular fragrance, among others, rather extensively. His "digs" into certain fragrances are actually deep dives. He has owned and given opinions on three different versions of this release. They are insightful and concise. In his opinion, the above imaged version is the best of the 3. It's the version in a frosted bottle with gold cap. I have to defer to him on this because I have only sampled the pictured version and have no experience with the other 2.



My opinion of this classic masculine comes from a 5ml. mini of the frosted glass/gold cap variety. Luckily for me, this particular mini was well stored and intact. That's not to say the top notes haven't dissipated to a certain degree because I believe they have. In spite of that, Bugatti opens with a rather full and satisfying spicy citrus accord that's embellished with immediate, woody undertones. The Carnation is blended rather well here and interacts seamlessly with the floral heart. It's here, after 4 minutes or so, that I get a mild, but persistent play-dough note. It could be the Iris/Amber/Vanilla combination, but who's to say for sure? I've experienced this with a few other scents that listed Lavender/Vanilla, with or without Amber.

From the 5 minute mark on towards the 3 hour mark, this note persists on me and to be honest, I find it a little distracting, but not enough to dislike it outright. This part of the wearing, Bugatti's notes act as one, with no transitions and retaining a denseness that doesn't lend itself to transparency. It's a viscous accord of citric spice, woods and a really well blended floral array. Still, the "play-dough" suggestion is there, albeit low volume.





Once the dry down commences, I'm left with a semi-sweet floral array and a very nice balsamic carnation, supported by a steady, low key leather accord. There's an assist from some mellow Van-Amber. I can't really say I'm experiencing Moss or Tonka of any significance, because I'm not. That's not to say someone else would notice it. I'm content with the dry down I just described and I'm glad the play-dough note has up and left.

Thumbs up from Aromi for Ettore Bugatti's 1992 release and as always, a sample wear is recommended before a blind buy purchase.



Saturday, November 28, 2020

Giorgio Beverly Hills Giorgio for Men Vintage

 

Aldehydes, Bergamot, Fruit Note, Orange, Pimento

Carnation, Cedar, Cinnamon, Orris, Patchouli, Rose, Sandalwood

Amber, Benzoin, Honey, Moss, Musk, Tonka Bean, Vanilla.

In 2009, I did a review of the reformulation that was available at that particular time. Reading my own review, I felt there was no need to seek out the vintage since what I already had was very good.


Enter the year 2013. My bottle from 2009 is gone and I pick up another. It's a different reformulation; brighter and more shrill with a phantom sawdust note. It's still good and I like it, but it's different. I still have a reference atomizer of it for comparison. If I had to choose between the one I had in 2009 and 2013, I'd choose the 2009. It simply was more robust and "full"

I now have a vintage bottle from somewhere between 1990-1994. It wasn't a vintage-only purchase. I just happened to come across it while looking for a replacement and the price was right.



Surprisingly, the vintage isn't as loud as the one in 2009. You would think it would be nuclear, but to say that would be inaccurate. What I will say is it's as full-bodied as it can be while maintaining a semblance of smoothness.

It opens with a blast of restrained aldehydes and citrus that has carnation and patchouli already in the mix. Rose rears its head after a few minutes and a floral component I attribute to Orris. I've heard others mention how obvious the honey note is in the vintage and early renditions of Giorgio for Men. Do I get honey? I can't say that I do.

                                                                                   

 Instead, I experience a mildly sweet accent that I attribute to the combination of Amber, Benzoin and Vanilla. The Patchouli rendition is similar to what I experience in Krizia Moods Uomo, but integrated better.

In summary, this is a very nice version of Giorgio. It's more polite than some versions, but better balanced and smoother. Even in the dry down, I still get the Carnation. It works well with the Patchouli, wood notes and Van-amber finish. The first few hours, the projection is moderate, but good. The next few hours, Giorgio is a personal space scent and the following 4-6 hours it evolves into a skin scent.

I'm glad I stumbled upon this vintage bottle. I'm happy, not because it's stupendous or for any other reason than I get to own an early version of this AFTER I've owned, worn and liked a few of its reformulations. Thumbs up from Aromi for the vintage rendition of Giorgio for Men. If you already like Giorgio, you'll like this. Also, if you're happy with the version you have, there's no need to hunt down a vintage bottle. Giorgio, it seems, is good in all its interpretations.


Friday, November 27, 2020

Reminiscence Patchouli by Reminiscence

 

Patchouli, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Labdanum, Vanilla, Tonka, Vetiver, Musk.


My Achilles heel has always been the Patchouli note. I know it's a love it or hate it note for many. I have always loved Patchouli dominant fragrance since the 1970's. Yes.....I said the 70's. I had an extended hospital stay in 1977, One of the nurses, who worked my floor, wore patchouli every day. That's all it took for me.


I've owned Reminiscence Elixir, Eau de Patchouli and a revised version of this. All were different and all were good. The original version of Reminiscence Patchouli, which I am reviewing, is also different and more related to Bois 1920 Real Patchouly and definitely related to the updated release in my previous review.



The first thing one notices when spritzing this particular Reminiscence version of Patchouli is..........Patchouli !!! I'd say it's moist as opposed to wet and within minutes the perceived condensation evaporates, leaving a drier version of patch mingled with the usual culprits of earth tones you'd expect. The blending of earth and woods is something patch aficionados would appreciate. Nothing spectacular mind you, but well done from a house known to do Patchouli rather well.



I deem this version a Chypiental since it incorporates both Chypre and Oriental leanings to support the star note. Sillage is moderate as is the overall volume, with longevity at 4 hours PLUS a bit more than that as a skin scent. The Van-Amber accord rears its head on me after 90 minutes or so and makes this a real comfort scent for lovers of Patchouli. Thumbs up for the original release of Reminiscence Patchouli. A sample wear is highly recommended and is, after all, just common sense to try it before you buy it.

Wednesday, October 10, 2018

Lacoste by Patou

Basil, Bergamot, Coriander, Lavender, Petitgrain, Rosemary, Lemon.

Fern, Geranium, Heliotrope, Clary Sage, Carnation, Patchouli, Vetiver, Cedarwood, Cinnamon.

Ambergris, Moss, Musk, Tonka Bean, Vanilla.

This 1968 release of Lacoste by Patou shows the lighter side of Jean Kerleo. This is in line with the overall image it tries to project. Golf, fairways and a sporty-casual aura depicts Lacoste rather well.

I've had this on again for about 30 minutes. I'm rather impressed with the totality of it. There are many listed notes , but repeated sniffing assures me this was made in a different era. It has a certain gravitas, even though it's a "sport" fragrance.  The citrus, spice, herbal and earthy qualities are all present and accounted for. It smells completely appropriate to wear in the spring-summer months regardless of being involved in an activity.

The carnation adds that classic masculine touch and seems to come to the fore a bit more as the wearing ensues. Is it dated? Perhaps a bit, but with a casual scent, that's not a drawback in my book. I put Lacoste into the same category as Lanvin L'Homme Sport for structure and overall performance/effect. Lacoste is HTF whereas the Lanvin ( and scents like it ) are cheap and readily available.

The dry down of Lacoste is nice and predictable considering the ingredients. A mild mossy-musk rears its head after an hour or so, with hardly a nod from Oriental notes.


Is Lacoste worth tracking down and paying the going rate? I suppose that depends if you're driven to "collect" as opposed to building a wardrobe with worthy representatives of genres you want so you have the bases covered. As for me, I like Lacoste, but I can live with a counterpart. I no longer collect HTF fragrances, so take that for what it's worth. Sillage is actually good with surprising longevity for a "Sport" fragrance. I can smell this 6 hours later with a few light sprays. Thumbs up from Aromi for Lacoste by Patou and as always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Tuesday, October 9, 2018

Voyageur by Jean Patou

Orange, Grapefruit, Lavender, Sage, Sandalwood,      Cedar,     Oakmoss.

Voyageur is a different type of fragrance from the House of Patou and released in 1995. The 1990's was an exercise in moving away from the powerhouse masculines of the eighties. Sure, there were still "substantial" creations here and there, but nothing like the preceding decade. In hindsight, this probably wasn't the best timing or marketing from Patou, but at least they came up with something that was contemporary and potentially competitive with the onslaught of aquatic releases.

This particular sample I'm reviewing was sent to me courtesy of a generous and knowledgeable Basenote member by the name of epapsoui.

The opening of Voyageur is overall familiar, yet pleasant. I find this a better fragrance 23 years after its release than I ever would have at the time it came out. I would have expected a more complicated and innovative creation from this house and that would have ( more than likely ) slanted my review. The citric opening volley is substantial enough to be noticed and yet mannerly. It does conjure a subtle aquatic characteristic, but on my skin, it really never surpasses the "suggestion" of one.

I have never been a stickler for trying to identify what unlisted ingredients are working together to implement the aquatic-musky vibe going on in Voyageur. At the end of the day, it doesn't matter. Voyageur doesn't necessarily develop through "stages". The initial development of citrus morphs into a more musky-aquatic version of the same, with an assist from moss and spice.

Kerleo's creation is reminiscent of something out of Calvin Klein's bag of tricks. That doesn't demean it. It simply describes it. I like this fragrance, just not enough to own it. I would however consider it if I were looking for an innocuous masculine for the workplace and didn't have any others in my wardrobe that fit that bill.

Sillage is moderate with longevity approximately 4 hours before dissipating into a skin scent. Neutral rating from Aromi with the recommendation to sample wear first if at all possible.



Wednesday, February 3, 2016

Reminiscence Patchouli Elixir

Virginian Cedar, Javanese Patchouli, Haitian Vetiver, Australian Sandalwood, Frankincense, Madagascar Vanilla, Tonka Beans, Tolu Balsam, Musk.

I reviewed this particular scent in November 2009 and it was an extremely brief one at that. I had just started the blog then, so more than 6 years later is ample time to revisit this release. Acquiring another bottle of this is also good reason to do so, so without further ado......

Wearing Elixir by Reminiscence, I'm reminded not only how good this house does Patchouli, but how this particular release leans masculine although marketed to women.

I own and truly enjoy Eau de Patchouli by Reminiscence. That one is in the center of the gender line and a brighter rendition. Elixir is woods and earth tones galore. It's darker, more masculine and not as transparent. All patchouli, to some, is of the head shop variety. They cannot distinguish nuances since the note is permeating and strong if it's a featured note. Since I truly like Patchouli, I know the differences when I smell it.

"Unforgettable" Elixir is just as good, if not better. If Eau de Patchouli is a hand wrapped in a glove, Elixir is a clenched fist, sans the glove. Once the drydown and beyond transpire, Elixir does manifest softer, smoother elements. On my skin, I'm experiencing earthy woods and then a transition of toned down Patchouli accented by hints of resins,powder and vanilla.


Some houses just know how to do Patchouli. Reminiscence is definitely one of them. In terms of presence, I'll rank Elixir right up there besides Bois 1920 Real Patchouly.

Sillage is good, so easy on the trigger. Longevity is approximately 6 hours, then much longer as a skin scent. This is detectable the next day. Thumbs up ( again ) from Aromi for Unforgettable Elixir Patchouli by Reminiscence. As always, a sample wear is recommended.



Tuesday, January 26, 2016

Sama by Hamidi Oud & Perfumes

                                         Woods, Amber, Agarwood, Vanilla.


About 3 years ago, Coutureguru from Parfumo sent me samples of assorted ouds. I still appreciate his generosity, as a few of them have found their way into my wardrobe. I don't recall liking or disliking Sama by Hamidi, but I will say my tastes have evolved since 2013. Funny how the passage of time can have you acclimating to scents that you previously recoiled from. Mind you, there's numerous ouds I still don't like, but that's the nature of this beast.

Sama, by Hamidi Oud and Perfumes is an oil. I understand it also comes in EDP, but to find either available in the States is extremely difficult. The oil that I'm wearing the last few days is extremely linear ( as you would expect ), but really good. The oud note is tuned perfectly for me and I enjoy the balance.

This particular rendition of oud is a familiar one for sure. What I like is it's just loud enough to maintain its position out front, on the skin, but not loud enough to be anywhere near obnoxious levels. After 15 minutes or so, Sama begins to morph into an uncomplicated Oudy-Oriental that is suited for either gender, regardless of who this is marketed to.

Sillage is moderate at all times, with longevity approximately 4-5 hours, on my skin before it transitions to a skin scent. Thumbs up from Aromi for Hamidi's Sama and as you can expect, a sample wear is highly recommended.




Friday, January 22, 2016

Amouage Jubilation XXV ( Magnetic Cap )

Labdanum Ciste, Coriander, Orange, Davana, Frankincense, Blackberry, Honey, Bay, Cinnamon, Orchid, Rose, Clove, Celery Seeds, Gaiac Wood, Patchouli, Opoponax, Myrrh, Atlas Cedarwood, Musk, Moss, Ambergris, Oud Wood, Immortelle.

Since I no longer have any previous-formula Jubilation XXV to do a side-by-side, it makes this review easier. I liked it 6 years ago and I still like; enough so that I purchased a bottle with the magnetic cap. There are some differences, but no deterrents and the current is certainly not inferior.

What I do notice about the current Jubilation is that it's a more linear wear. The volume was never boisterous to begin with and it remains as such. The Frankincense is the theme on my skin with assists from an array of notes that are fairly seamless. There's intermittent whiffs of clove, woods, earth and herbs and they accent instead of bloom.

Others may experience something different than I, but at least during my wearings, the Incense sits smack in the middle while helped along passively by the rest of the composition. Jubilation XXV has a rather staid totality, but it's completely appropriate.

Formal demeanor or not, this is a nice scent and worthy additional to a persons wardrobe. You simply need to like the Incense note and you'll be G2G. If you're not sure, but your curiosity is piqued, grab a sample and try it. The current price point is far better than it used to be. Sillage is average with longevity approximately 6 hours plus more as a skin scent. Thumbs up from Aromi for Amouage's current rendition of Jubilation XXV.

Wednesday, January 20, 2016

Micallef pour Homme #31

Bergamot, Lavender, Geranium, Jasmine, Nutmeg, Cinnamon, Clove, Cedar, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Patchouli, Musk, Vanilla.

Pictured is the more commonly recognized refill bottle. The original is actually quite nice, but aesthetics aside, the fragrance remains the same no matter the container. For those who have enjoyed Cacharel pour Homme, you will probably like this one as well. Micallef #31 was released in 2009, 28 years after Cacharel made its debut. What they have in common is the unabashed use of spices; namely nutmeg.

I no longer have Cacharel, but it was in my wardrobe for quite a few years. A side by side is no longer possible, but I can say that Micallef #31 is stronger in presence, sillage and longevity. It reminds me ( as does the Cacharel ) of a Christmas-time fragrance. It's the spices that give me this impression.

I'm also inclined to pick this scent on overcast, dreary type days when the temps are cool to cold. The Nutmeg, Cinnamon and Clove merged with Geranium and Vetiver are bracing in a good way. The citric contribution dissipates after about 10 minutes, unveiling a more toned down rendition of spice and earth tones. There's a woody undercurrent that's tuned to flesh out the scent as opposed to coming to the forefront.

In the base, drydown and beyond, whatever ragged edges were there are now softened by mild vanilla. It's actually quite nice, masculine and it's here where I can appreciate the integration of spices. It's all less energetic at this stage of development and Micallef #31 finally becomes comfortable. Sillage is good with longevity approximately 5 hours before reapplication, but longer as a skin scent. Thumbs up from Aromi for Micallef's Spice-fest. As always, a sample wear is highly recommended.