Il Mondi Odore Perfume Reviews

Il Mondi Odore Perfume Reviews

Wednesday, October 10, 2018

Lacoste by Patou

Basil, Bergamot, Coriander, Lavender, Petitgrain, Rosemary, Lemon.

Fern, Geranium, Heliotrope, Clary Sage, Carnation, Patchouli, Vetiver, Cedarwood, Cinnamon.

Ambergris, Moss, Musk, Tonka Bean, Vanilla.

This 1968 release of Lacoste by Patou shows the lighter side of Jean Kerleo. This is in line with the overall image it tries to project. Golf, fairways and a sporty-casual aura depicts Lacoste rather well.

I've had this on again for about 30 minutes. I'm rather impressed with the totality of it. There are many listed notes , but repeated sniffing assures me this was made in a different era. It has a certain gravitas, even though it's a "sport" fragrance.  The citrus, spice, herbal and earthy qualities are all present and accounted for. It smells completely appropriate to wear in the spring-summer months regardless of being involved in an activity.

The carnation adds that classic masculine touch and seems to come to the fore a bit more as the wearing ensues. Is it dated? Perhaps a bit, but with a casual scent, that's not a drawback in my book. I put Lacoste into the same category as Lanvin L'Homme Sport for structure and overall performance/effect. Lacoste is HTF whereas the Lanvin ( and scents like it ) are cheap and readily available.

The dry down of Lacoste is nice and predictable considering the ingredients. A mild mossy-musk rears its head after an hour or so, with hardly a nod from Oriental notes.

Is Lacoste worth tracking down and paying the going rate? I suppose that depends if you're driven to "collect" as opposed to building a wardrobe with worthy representatives of genres you want so you have the bases covered. As for me, I like Lacoste, but I can live with a counterpart. I no longer collect HTF fragrances, so take that for what it's worth. Sillage is actually good with surprising longevity for a "Sport" fragrance. I can smell this 6 hours later with a few light sprays. Thumbs up from Aromi for Lacoste by Patou and as always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Tuesday, October 9, 2018

Voyageur by Jean Patou

Orange, Grapefruit, Lavender, Sage, Sandalwood,      Cedar,     Oakmoss.

Voyageur is a different type of fragrance from the House of Patou and released in 1995. The 1990's was an exercise in moving away from the powerhouse masculines of the eighties. Sure, there were still "substantial" creations here and there, but nothing like the preceding decade. In hindsight, this probably wasn't the best timing or marketing from Patou, but at least they came up with something that was contemporary and potentially competitive with the onslaught of aquatic releases.

This particular sample I'm reviewing was sent to me courtesy of a generous and knowledgeable Basenote member by the name of epapsoui.

The opening of Voyageur is overall familiar, yet pleasant. I find this a better fragrance 23 years after its release than I ever would have at the time it came out. I would have expected a more complicated and innovative creation from this house and that would have ( more than likely ) slanted my review. The citric opening volley is substantial enough to be noticed and yet mannerly. It does conjure a subtle aquatic characteristic, but on my skin, it really never surpasses the "suggestion" of one.

I have never been a stickler for trying to identify what unlisted ingredients are working together to implement the aquatic-musky vibe going on in Voyageur. At the end of the day, it doesn't matter. Voyageur doesn't necessarily develop through "stages". The initial development of citrus morphs into a more musky-aquatic version of the same, with an assist from moss and spice.

Kerleo's creation is reminiscent of something out of Calvin Klein's bag of tricks. That doesn't demean it. It simply describes it. I like this fragrance, just not enough to own it. I would however consider it if I were looking for an innocuous masculine for the workplace and didn't have any others in my wardrobe that fit that bill.

Sillage is moderate with longevity approximately 4 hours before dissipating into a skin scent. Neutral rating from Aromi with the recommendation to sample wear first if at all possible.

Wednesday, February 3, 2016

Reminiscence Patchouli Elixir

Virginian Cedar, Javanese Patchouli, Haitian Vetiver, Australian Sandalwood, Frankincense, Madagascar Vanilla, Tonka Beans, Tolu Balsam, Musk.

I reviewed this particular scent in November 2009 and it was an extremely brief one at that. I had just started the blog then, so more than 6 years later is ample time to revisit this release. Acquiring another bottle of this is also good reason to do so, so without further ado......

Wearing Elixir by Reminiscence, I'm reminded not only how good this house does Patchouli, but how this particular release leans masculine although marketed to women.

I own and truly enjoy Eau de Patchouli by Reminiscence. That one is in the center of the gender line and a brighter rendition. Elixir is woods and earth tones galore. It's darker, more masculine and not as transparent. All patchouli, to some, is of the head shop variety. They cannot distinguish nuances since the note is permeating and strong if it's a featured note. Since I truly like Patchouli, I know the differences when I smell it.

"Unforgettable" Elixir is just as good, if not better. If Eau de Patchouli is a hand wrapped in a glove, Elixir is a clenched fist, sans the glove. Once the drydown and beyond transpire, Elixir does manifest softer, smoother elements. On my skin, I'm experiencing earthy woods and then a transition of toned down Patchouli accented by hints of resins,powder and vanilla.

Some houses just know how to do Patchouli. Reminiscence is definitely one of them. In terms of presence, I'll rank Elixir right up there besides Bois 1920 Real Patchouly.

Sillage is good, so easy on the trigger. Longevity is approximately 6 hours, then much longer as a skin scent. This is detectable the next day. Thumbs up ( again ) from Aromi for Unforgettable Elixir Patchouli by Reminiscence. As always, a sample wear is recommended.

Tuesday, January 26, 2016

Sama by Hamidi Oud & Perfumes

                                         Woods, Amber, Agarwood, Vanilla.

About 3 years ago, Coutureguru from Parfumo sent me samples of assorted ouds. I still appreciate his generosity, as a few of them have found their way into my wardrobe. I don't recall liking or disliking Sama by Hamidi, but I will say my tastes have evolved since 2013. Funny how the passage of time can have you acclimating to scents that you previously recoiled from. Mind you, there's numerous ouds I still don't like, but that's the nature of this beast.

Sama, by Hamidi Oud and Perfumes is an oil. I understand it also comes in EDP, but to find either available in the States is extremely difficult. The oil that I'm wearing the last few days is extremely linear ( as you would expect ), but really good. The oud note is tuned perfectly for me and I enjoy the balance.

This particular rendition of oud is a familiar one for sure. What I like is it's just loud enough to maintain its position out front, on the skin, but not loud enough to be anywhere near obnoxious levels. After 15 minutes or so, Sama begins to morph into an uncomplicated Oudy-Oriental that is suited for either gender, regardless of who this is marketed to.

Sillage is moderate at all times, with longevity approximately 4-5 hours, on my skin before it transitions to a skin scent. Thumbs up from Aromi for Hamidi's Sama and as you can expect, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Friday, January 22, 2016

Amouage Jubilation XXV ( Magnetic Cap )

Labdanum Ciste, Coriander, Orange, Davana, Frankincense, Blackberry, Honey, Bay, Cinnamon, Orchid, Rose, Clove, Celery Seeds, Gaiac Wood, Patchouli, Opoponax, Myrrh, Atlas Cedarwood, Musk, Moss, Ambergris, Oud Wood, Immortelle.

Since I no longer have any previous-formula Jubilation XXV to do a side-by-side, it makes this review easier. I liked it 6 years ago and I still like; enough so that I purchased a bottle with the magnetic cap. There are some differences, but no deterrents and the current is certainly not inferior.

What I do notice about the current Jubilation is that it's a more linear wear. The volume was never boisterous to begin with and it remains as such. The Frankincense is the theme on my skin with assists from an array of notes that are fairly seamless. There's intermittent whiffs of clove, woods, earth and herbs and they accent instead of bloom.

Others may experience something different than I, but at least during my wearings, the Incense sits smack in the middle while helped along passively by the rest of the composition. Jubilation XXV has a rather staid totality, but it's completely appropriate.

Formal demeanor or not, this is a nice scent and worthy additional to a persons wardrobe. You simply need to like the Incense note and you'll be G2G. If you're not sure, but your curiosity is piqued, grab a sample and try it. The current price point is far better than it used to be. Sillage is average with longevity approximately 6 hours plus more as a skin scent. Thumbs up from Aromi for Amouage's current rendition of Jubilation XXV.

Wednesday, January 20, 2016

Micallef pour Homme #31

Bergamot, Lavender, Geranium, Jasmine, Nutmeg, Cinnamon, Clove, Cedar, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Patchouli, Musk, Vanilla.

Pictured is the more commonly recognized refill bottle. The original is actually quite nice, but aesthetics aside, the fragrance remains the same no matter the container. For those who have enjoyed Cacharel pour Homme, you will probably like this one as well. Micallef #31 was released in 2009, 28 years after Cacharel made its debut. What they have in common is the unabashed use of spices; namely nutmeg.

I no longer have Cacharel, but it was in my wardrobe for quite a few years. A side by side is no longer possible, but I can say that Micallef #31 is stronger in presence, sillage and longevity. It reminds me ( as does the Cacharel ) of a Christmas-time fragrance. It's the spices that give me this impression.

I'm also inclined to pick this scent on overcast, dreary type days when the temps are cool to cold. The Nutmeg, Cinnamon and Clove merged with Geranium and Vetiver are bracing in a good way. The citric contribution dissipates after about 10 minutes, unveiling a more toned down rendition of spice and earth tones. There's a woody undercurrent that's tuned to flesh out the scent as opposed to coming to the forefront.

In the base, drydown and beyond, whatever ragged edges were there are now softened by mild vanilla. It's actually quite nice, masculine and it's here where I can appreciate the integration of spices. It's all less energetic at this stage of development and Micallef #31 finally becomes comfortable. Sillage is good with longevity approximately 5 hours before reapplication, but longer as a skin scent. Thumbs up from Aromi for Micallef's Spice-fest. As always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Monday, January 18, 2016

Ambre Notti by West Third Brand

Cedar, Sandalwood, Amber, Patchouli, Vanilla, White Musk, Tonka Bean.

The house of Guerlain has Guerlainade and to my nose, West Third Brand has what I can only call Brandinade. Naturally, it's econo-class and considering the price point, it stands to reason.

Ambre Notti has the DNA I've become familiar with when sampling West Third Brand. Their signature rendition of Vanilla is incorporated in quite a few of their releases. I will say that their vanilla note isn't sickly sweet or have space clearing presence. It's no where near as dense or permeating as other implementations. It's identifiable and mellow and this gives it some versatility.

What does disappoint me however is the Amber; or should I say the lack of its personality. In Ambre Notti, the accords seem to be blurred. I get the vanilla and I also experience a fullness overall. I suppose I would have liked better renditions of everything listed here, but it is what it is.

The totality is fine. There's nothing here to make you sit up and take notice, that's for sure. It is something you can spray on and go about your business knowing you'll smell pleasant and offend basically no one. Sillage is moderate with longevity approximately 4-5 hours before reapplication. Not bad results for about 75¢ per ml. Neutral rating from Aromi for Ambre Notti by West Third Brand. A sample wear is highly recommended before purchase.

Saturday, January 16, 2016

La Yuqawam pour Homme by Rasasi

Thyme, Saffron, Raspberry, Oliban, Davana, Jasmine, Leather, Black Suede, Woods, Amber.

Well now, what exactly do we have here? Not exactly groundbreaking or exciting for that matter, but has that uncanny ability to keep you sniffing it; repeatedly I might add.

By now, you know this has been compared to T.F.'s Tuscan Leather. I'm not going to get into that. With La Yuqawam, I prefer to wear it, smell it.....and then throw my opinion out there with the hundreds of others. On its own, La Yuqawam for men wears and smells just modern enough, just masculine enough and definitely good enough to be a worthy addition to someone's wardrobe that enjoys Raz-Leather.

On my skin, what makes this successful is how the Saffron interacts with the Raspberry and Leather notes. They're the 3 main players in my wearings and the Saffron is tuned just passively enough to give an acceptable assist during the top and heart stages. By the time the base accord commences, what remains for me is a slightly spicy Raz-Leather.

La Yuqawam blankets the skin pretty much already developed. I'm seeing less and less transitional phases in current releases, but that's just my opinion. Sillage is average with longevity approximately 5 hours before reapplication. Thumbs up from Aromi for Rasasi's La Yuqawam pour Homme. As always, a sample wear is recommended.

Friday, January 15, 2016

Aoud Violet by Mancera

Bergamot, Spices, Green Notes, Violet, Patchouli Leaves, Oud, Vetiver, Amber, White Musk.

First, permit me to say that Aoud Violet is not an oud fragrance. Mancera has surprised me recently with some very well constructed releases that steer away from the oud note.

That's actually a breath of fresh air since there are already so many variations of oud. It would be fruitless however if the non-oud scents weren't any good. So far, what I've encountered are fragrances that stand on their own, possess nice sillage, longevity and wear like you'd expect a well made creation to wear. Aoud Violet fits this criteria for me, although it does lean a tad feminine, but no more so than other violet dominant scents I own (and sometimes wear).

Aoud Violet truly is about violet that tilts green. The opening affords a nice augmentation courtesy of citrus and what I perceive as a very mild pepper. As the wearings march on, patchouli and vetiver manifest themselves, on my skin at least, as complimentary earth tones. They don't come to fruition in their full dress uniforms. They are subtle suggestions and never steal the focus off the violet note.

I never experience oud in my wearings. Even in the extended drydown, but I'm not bitching. I have enough ouds and some of you folks may detect it where I cannot. As is stands, Aoud Violet has good sillage, longevity of about 6 hours plus and smells very good and full bodied. Thumbs up from Aromi for Mancera's Aoud Violet and as always, a sample wear is recommended.

Thursday, January 14, 2016

Maze by Al Haramain

Geranium, Orange, Rose, Lemon, Davana, Bergamot, Artemesia, Cedar, Rose, Orchid, Jasmine, Sandalwood, Saffron, Cloves, Orange Tree Blossom, Patchouli, Cedar, Praline, Tonka Bean, Sandalwood, Fruit Notes, Cashmere Wood, Amber, Floral Notes, Musk.

For a fragrance with enough listed notes to enable an entire neighborhood to become aromatic, Maze by Al Haramain is a straight up Woody. To be truthful, I'm pleasantly surprised by how linear it is and how good it smells. I happen to really enjoy Woodies, so if they aren't your cup of tea, please avoid this one. I purchased this blind and didn't know what to expect due to the amount of listed notes. Cedar and Sandalwood are front and center on my skin from start to finish.

Between the two woods, Cedar is the more predominant. Naturally, you may experience something a bit different, but what evolves during my wearings is Cedar, complimented with Sandalwood and given a subtle assist from citrus, Saffron, Clove and Musk. When I say subtle, I mean subtle.

Maze has enough embellishment from other players to give the woods just enough oomph. This genuinely wears linear on me, so there's no point in describing non-existent accord development. The Saffron helps this along nicely, while the clove and Orange lend a suitable counterpoint.

Sillage is average with longevity approximately 4-5 hours with normal sprays before evolving into a skin scent that lasts a good while. Thumbs up from Aromi for Al Haramain's Maze. As always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Wednesday, January 13, 2016

Perfume Calligraphy by Aramis

Cardamom, Lemon, Cinnamon, Myrrh, Saffron, Rose, Patchouli, Amber, Musk, Agarwood.

"A Rose, by any other name, would smell as sweet" was made famous by none other than William Shakespeare. I suppose most people have predetermined expectations from a house such as Aramis. I say "most" since hobbyists are familiar with Havana and the original Aramis ( which, by the way, still graces shelves ). Perfume Calligraphy is a step in a different direction.....and if I may say, it was a good decision.

From what I've read, some think Calligraphy is strong. Some say it possess heady oud, while others perceive it in a similar fashion as I do. To me, Perfume Calligraphy is all about a Rose rendition that's neither moist nor dusty.

There's subtle balsam and spices in the mix that I can only guess are contributions from Cardamom, Saffron and Cinnamon. They are not only evident from the initial spray, but throughout the development. The Rose remains front and center on my skin the entire time, with very mild suggestions of resin and earth tones well into the base accord and beyond. Oud never comes to fruition on me, but I like this just the way it is.

Perfume Calligraphy is a shared fragrance with average sillage and a longevity that lasts approximately 5-6 hours before becoming a skin scent. Thumbs up from Aromi for Aramis Perfume Calligraphy and as always, a sample wear is recommended.

Tuesday, January 12, 2016

Cedrat Boise by Mancera

Bergamot, Sicilian Lemon, Black Currant, Cold Spices, Fruit Basket, Aquatic Jasmine, Patchouli Leaves, Sandal, Cedar, Woods, Leather, Moss, White Musk, Vanilla.

Well, we certainly have a truckload of notes here in Cedrat Boise. If you're wondering what exactly is Cold Spices, Fruit Basket and Aquatic Jasmine, I have no answer for you except "Who cares right"? The totality smells really good, so as far as I'm concerned, the house of Mancera can get as avant-garde as they wish with names. The citrus accord I experience while wearing this is above anything I expected from a company that is synonymous with woods and oud.

Now, there's more going on here besides Lemon, but Mancera has somehow manged to tune this creation in such a way as to showcase the citric aspect for basically the life of the scent. No small feat if you ask me.

Another thing is that if I didn't know anything about this scent other than to smell it blind, I would think it's an Italian fragrance. All these listed notes, at least on my skin, are nothing more than supporting actors here and that's not a derogatory remark.

After 30 minutes, the citrus diminishes enough to blend with subtle suggestions of wood, earth and herbs. Cedrat Boise is never loud, even from the opening accord, but it does possess a full bodied quality throughout.

Sillage is average with longevity approximately 6 hours on me as a close scent and even longer as a skin scent. Thumbs up from Aromi for Mancera's Cedrat Boise and as always, a sample wear is recommended.

Sunday, January 10, 2016

La Collection M7 Oud Absolu by Yves Saint Laurent

Mandarin, Patchouli, Labdanum, Myrrh, Agarwood.

Finally decided to pick up a bottle of Absolu. I've had the original release of M7 in my wardrobe for quite some time now and decided it was simply the right time to add this. Absolu comes 9 years after the release of Original M7 in 2002.

The purists have screamed it's not the's not as good. True, it's not the same, but on me, it stays on point and pays tribute to the original. To be truthful, I find it a bit more versatile and wearable, although not as deep as its predecessor.

Still present is the cherry cough syrup quality, albeit lower in presence and perhaps better balanced. The listed notes work as one to pay homage to the extremely popular initial release. The volume is tuned down a notch or two as is the longevity. It does however remain a personal space scent for a good amount of time, so the 4 hours ( give or take a little ) that Absolu is noticeable to people in passing......coupled with the current price point......make M7 Absolu a strong consideration since you can simply reapply.

Sillage is average on me with longevity approximately 3-4 hours before morphing into a skin scent. Thumbs up from Aromi for YSL's M7 Oud Absolu. As always, a sample wear is recommended before purchase.

Saturday, January 9, 2016

Aoud Cafe by Mancera

Bergamot, Clove, Cinnamon, White Pepper.
Rose, Geranium, Saffron.
Aoud, Smoke, Cedar, Sandalwood, White Musk, Animal notes, Leather notes.

Since I've come to appreciate a good rendition of the coffee note in fragrances, I researched Aoud Cafe before buying it as you would expect. Some say they get no coffee whatsoever, while others praise how well it's done. Welcome to the murky world of fragrance opinions.

Naturally, I have one to throw in the ring and my opinion falls in between. It's not that I'm ambivalent about the aroma of the note in question. On the contrary; I like it as it reminds me of the Coffee Ice Cream I used to eat as a kid. It simply doesn't hang around long enough to satisfy me. ( I refer to the coffee note ).

Upon application, it's almost carmelized and possesses a gourmand-like aspect to it. This semi-smoky quality endures through the heart accord on me before it dissipates into the second stage of development. The rendition is dry and slightly bitter. Now, it's not incendiary or groundbreaking, but you'll either like this or you won't. After 5 minutes, it really does conjure up ( for me ) a particular brand of Coffee Ice Cream my family used to buy years ago.

The remainder of the wearings afford a mild and nuanced oud note.This isn't a bold oud. It's implemented more as an accent or complimentary note. It works just fine with the smoke, woods and leather qualities inherent in Aoud Cafe. If this genre appeals to you, then this should be sampled. Mancera seems to have a good grasp on blending and volume. The ones I own smell full bodied without inconveniencing those around me with projection. Sillage is good with longevity approximately 5 hours on me before morphing into a skin scent. Thumbs up from Aromi for Mancera's Aoud Cafe and a strong recommendation to sample first.

Friday, January 8, 2016

N°1 Oud by Etienne Aigner

Coriander, Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Jasmine, Rose, Violet, Clove, Oud, Leather, Cashmeran, Saffron.

Etienne Aigner has been perhaps my favorite designer house over the course of 4-plus decades. With N°1 Oud, they have released a westernized "oud" in keeping with the likes of Ferrari Essence Oud. On my skin, N°1 wears like a Ferrari-Lite flanker. Not as heavy or dense, nor as pungent as the Ferrari, yet good in its own right and especially so now since the prices have come down to $40-50 NIB for 100ml. It leans masculine and is marketed as such, but masculines these days just aren't as macho as some used to be. That's not necessarily a bad thing.

N°1 Oud is a scent I like to wear in these cold, winter months. It's simply appropriate and it exudes a warmth during the wearings. It opens a bit sheer and completely developed. The contrast of the violet and clove notes is surprisingly enjoyable. I didn't expect to like it, especially since nutmeg is also listed, but somehow it all works.

Once the spices dissipate after 10 minutes ,to a lower volume, what remains on me is a soft cherry agar note. This is accented with a leathery quality and it compliments the woods nicely. There's no conventional development on my skin, but it's all good. All that matters is that the totality smells good.......and it does. Sillage is moderate with longevity approximately 4-5 hours before reapplication. Thumbs up from Aromi for Aigner N°1 Oud and as always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Thursday, January 7, 2016

Mena by Al Haramain

Pine Tree, Sandalwood, Saffron, Sandalwood, Amber.

Having never smelled this before, I pulled the trigger on this and Maze by Al Haramain due to the minimal, sketchy opinions and the bottle. Mainly, because of the bottle folks and I admit, they are as heavy and as cool as you think they are.

After wearing Mena a few times now, I'm still unsure what to make of it. It's somehow discordant and maintains the ability to keep me sniffing it. I can definitely say I don't love it because there's a combination of note-ratios that bring a sourness to fruition on my skin. The house's rendition of Pine Tree pitted against Saffron is what is causing this I'm sure.

Mena is obviously all about woods, but it's not a heavy, dense interpretation. I assumed incorrectly that this ( and Maze ) would wear with gravity. It doesn't and chooses to be a more versatile and multi-seasonal scent.

After 10 to 15 minutes, Mena wears close and sheds that off-kilter opening accord. The slightly sour and discordant top note has mellowed into a minimal resin and more obvious wood. The volume and presence are already personal space fragrances after 30 minutes has elapsed. While this particular woody does nothing to stand out and differentiate itself from the myriad of others, it's definitely wearable by either gender and the bottle is an eye catcher for sure.

Neutral-Positive rating from Aromi for Al Haramain's Mena. Sillage is average at best with longevity 4-5 hours on my skin before reapplication. As always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Saturday, November 21, 2015

Perry Ellis Oud Vetiver Royale Absolute

Black Pepper, Haitian Vetiver, Juniper, Agarwood, Indonesian Patchouli, Atlas Cedar.

I can say that this release has an extremely fancy name and decent bottle to go with it. I made the statement on a fragrance site that I believed this to be mundane and naturally, as is expected, there are those who disagree.

That's fine since the cliche "it's a subjective hobby" holds water. Now, Oud Vetiver Royale isn't a bad scent. It is mundane on this wearer  however and if you are expecting any semblance of the "wow" factor, you will be disappointed. I suppose my biggest beef is that projection is low on me and the "noticeable" longevity is only a few hours before morphing into a veritable skin scent.

For those who like the earthiness and woods of this genre, you'll probably enjoy this. Oud Vetiver Royale never changes from the initial spray and at least to me, smells exactly the same in the extended drydown as it did the first few minutes; albeit at a lower presence.

Neutral rating from Aromi for Perry Ellis Oud Vetiver Royale Absolute. It's not bad, nor is it exciting. To this nose, it's the "meh" factor.

Friday, November 6, 2015

Grit & Poise by West Third Brand

Lemon, Muguet, Amber, Labdanum, Olibanum, Incense, Patchouli, Vanilla Bean.

Grit & Poise goes on a bit oily for starters. I just thought I should point that out. The vanilla is prominent from the initial application. There's also some balsam and resins in there for good measure. The opening accord is actually very nice; not overtly sweet and to me, gender neutral.

Like others from this house, there's not much in the way of transitions and goes on fully developed. I'm not sure if Poise & Grit separates itself enough from the many others in this genre to grab hold of the wearer. It's a pleasant wear, but so are thousands of others.

This has the base to accommodate some interesting things for a prelude, but it chooses not to. The base is "safe", yet sometimes making no waves is as bad as making the wrong ones. I suppose Poise & Grit feels "incomplete" to me and at the same time smells nice. Suffice it so say that if you like your Vanilla accented with Labdanum and Resin, this should be sampled.

Sillage is good with longevity approximately 6 hours on me and longer as a skin scent. Neutral rating from Aromi since this didn't live up to its potential. As always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Tuesday, November 3, 2015

The Aoud by Mancera

Bergamot, Clove, Cinnamon, White Pepper, Rose Petals, Geranium, Saffron, Oud, Smoky Wood, Cedar, Sandalwood, Animalics, Leather, White Musk.

For all the listed notes in The Aoud by Mancera, it comes out of the sprayer almost completely developed. The interplay between Clove and Cinnamon is very "sniffable" and lends a slight burnt quality to the accord. With the exception of Musk, all the culprits are blended very well and interact in such a way as to smell as "one". However, If you put your mind to it while sampling, you can pick out all the contributors.

The Oud is easily detectable, but is restrained from completely dominating the composition. I like this more each time I wear it. What's not to like about slightly smoky woods with floral and leathery accents?

For whatever reason, the Musk doesn't integrate, on my skin, like I would anticipate. It may develop better on yours or it could simply be that I can't detect it. After all, there's quite a bit going on here in this dense brew.

Once the base and drydown commence, The Aoud morphs into a sensual leathery-woods that still has smoke ingrained in its DNA. This tilts masculine to me, but we all know the gender line has become more blurred each passing decade. Sillage is perfect with longevity approximately 6 hours on me and then longer as a skin scent. Thumbs up from Aromi for Mancera's The Aoud and as always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Monday, November 2, 2015

Black Line by Mancera

Spices, Rose, Patchouli, Amber, Leather, White Musk, Sandalwood, Guaiac.

Indeed, the Rose-Oud-Sandal combinations have pretty much run their course.......or have they? When you sample numerous ones in this genre, there's a commonality to be expected and the whole category can make you indifferent.

Some, however, have that little something-something that's hard to put your finger on, but it's just loud enough, comfortable enough and blended well enough to make you take notice in spite of all the other contenders. This is how I interpret my wearings of Black Line. Personally, I find the category of "niche" rose releases to be somewhat overloaded and because of this, it doesn't seem special to me anymore. I suppose it's run of the mill these days, but that doesn't mean there aren't standouts.

Black Line, on my skin, doesn't come across as either feminine or masculine. It just is. Rose is featured here with complimentary appearances and contributions from others. Subtle spice, some earthy tones, hints of leather and musk, and a touch of woody resin are restrained but evident. The rose manages to stay a step ahead for the life of the scent and the volume never gets raucous. This is a very nice wear if you want these attributes while desiring your scent to remain polite.

It took me a few wearings to fully appreciate Black Line. No, it doesn't raise the bar for Rose fragrances. We are all too different with our perceptions and there are simply to many to choose from. However, this "wears" like I want a rose-centric fragrance to.

Sillage is average with longevity approximately 5 hours on me with moderate sprays. I don't experience mega projection, but the aroma is full nonetheless. These days, I can do without the room clearers. Thumbs up from Aromi for Mancera's Black Line. As always, a sample wear is recommended.

Saturday, October 31, 2015

Maxed Out by 4160Tuesdays

Rum, Coconut, Lime, Tobacco, Coffee, Cannabis Essential Oil, Vintage Musks, Vanilla, Cumin, Atlas Cedar

Okay......this is a definitely a different aroma. I almost feel like I'm packed in an elevator with one part Granola crowd, one part Rastafarian and the other an assortment of suit and tie guys just coming from a meeting.

The first few minutes after application, the contrast of coconut, Lime, Cedar and Ash is a bit eyebrow raising for me. I don't mean the strength, just the aroma. I don't like it, nor do I dislike it. It's weirdly different and maybe just a hair off putting. On the other hand, some of you out there may love this conflict of notes. It does calm down rather quickly and manages to integrate the coconut a bit better once the heart accord commences.

The standouts on my skin are the tangy Coconut and ashy Tobacco. The juxtaposition is eclectic and this is accented with Cedar. I suppose it's simply a grouping of notes I haven't experienced before and the longer the wearings ensue, the more comfortable I become with it.

Any contributions from other listed notes here are minor, at best, on my skin. Perhaps your skin will permit other notes to bloom better than mine did and perhaps they won't. You won't know until you try it.

Maxed Out is an Extrait. I find it full bodied and close. Sillage is average with longevity approximately 5 hours before I'd consider reapplying. I'm going to give this a thumbs up, not because I love it or even like it. Maxed out is off the beaten path and dared to take a chance......even if it wasn't a very big chance. I highly recommend a sample wear before purchase on this one. Who may not want to get out of the elevator.