Il Mondo di Odore

Citrus, Orange Blossom, Green Leaves, Jasmine, Neroli, Laurel, Resins, Spruce resin, Vanilla. Looking at the listed notes, I assumed Dilmun would be an overtly sweet orange bonanza. It's really not that at all, although the orange is prevalent. Dilmun opens with the customary citrus and has orange leading the charge. It's a rather good introduction and right away you are able to determine that the orange rendition will not overstep its predetermined boundaries. This is actually a relief for me as I was expecting to use some emergency insulin. No worries however as Dilmun is immediately tempered with leafy wood tones. This seems to pull the reigns in on the orange notes just enough. The citrus works well within these confines and makes the opening accord rather enjoyable. It's here where the transition should be that Dilmun loses some of it's mystique. I understand if Lorenzo wanted to keep Dilmun streamlined, but I keep waiting for something.....anything.....

Osmanthus, Rose, Jasmine, Rosewood, Exotic Flowers. Narcissus, Tuberose, Ylang Ylang, Orange Blossom, Labdanum. Amber, Musk, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Benzoin, Leather. I held off for a long time from sampling this. I did so because the accords did not resemble something I was in a hurry to smell. I assumed it would be much too floral for me and I've come to find I was wrong. There's a duo of notes I have come to like very much over the years, but just because both are listed in any fragrance doesn't mean the ratios give me that certain "something". It seems that Alamut has the right tuning of Tuberose and Labdanum to bring that smile to my face. Alamut opens with a slightly green and fruity accord that's floral in nature. There's also a balsam in the mix and not even in the top does Alamut lean too far feminine or masculine. It seems to ride the razors edge between gender. "It will  transition to the heart and it will be here that Alamut...

Funny how we can come full circle with certain fragrances. There was a time when I found Villoresi's Sandalo much too harsh and downright crude for my taste. My palette has broadened over the years from simply staying active in the hobby.   I still equate Villoresi as being the Frank Zappa of perfumery. No, I don't mean buffoonery, but rather an "in your face" and a take-it-or-leave-it approach. His creations always seem to be rugged, but that's one mans opinion. Sandalo has a "not quite finished" air about it. Lorenzo has chosen not to cover the flaws in sandalwood and has it stand completely naked before the world. Naturally, there are other players in the works in this fragrance, but the sandalwood is deliberately left to stand or fall on its own merits. If those of you considering sampling Sandalo necessarily don't harbor much love for sandal, rosewood or some lavender, then be advised that you will find this NOT to your liking. I love s...

Like Santa Maria Novella's Patchouli (reviewed by me below), Lorenzo Villoresi's Patchouli is all about patchouli and nothing else.  There's no vanilla or amber to cover up the animal inside here.  Villoresi's patchouli is not a wimpy scent at all. Also like SMN's offering, the patchouli here is dry and transparent, not sweet and heavy.  In fact, at first sniff it's hard to tell the two apart.  You really need to wear Villoresi's patchouli and spend some time with it to appreciate its qualities, because they don't hit you in the face.  What I like most about Villoresi's fragrance (other than it containing good quality patchouli oil) is how multifaceted it is.  Sometimes it smells sharp and woody, almost like cedar.  The next moment I'll detect a subtle leatheriness to it, making it smell somewhat like Givenchy Gentleman.  Other times I'll detect a very slight anisic quality, and then it takes on a moist, musty smell.  Good quality patchou...

In 1994, Villoresi launched this raucous and raw rendition of vetiver onto an unsuspecting public. Some are still reeling from shock and awe. At first, this made me recoil a bit from its crudeness and volume. It has taken a few wearings of Vetiver to appreciate its earthy and slightly nutty aroma. This smell is ingrained in what appears to be a plank of dry, sun-worn rosewood that someone sprinkled with conventional black pepper. Yes...dinner table pepper. I liken Lorenzo Villoresi as being the Frank Zappa of the fragrance world. He's a bit nuts, in-your-face and usually raw enough to sport a T-Shirt that has " The Ugly Truth" emblazened across the front of it. Villoresi is a take it or leave it parfumeur and regardless of whether or not his scents are for you, they are a force to be reckoned with for sure.

Lorenzo Villoresi is notable for creating raw and in-your-face masculines. This 1993 release isn't one of them however and a deft touch was used in making this scent. Effervescent is the best word I can muster for the initial opening. A very zesty citrus coupled with woodified florals and spice literally blast out of the bottle. I especially enjoy the use of petitgrain and juniper which seems to jump start a vetiver of excellent quality. I notice the vetiver and it's nutty quality after only a minute or so and it remains throughout all the accords. This is good stuff folks. Sandalwood joins the drydown along with subtle patchouli making Uomo a balanced masculine worthy of admiration. This scent uses vetiver in a clever way....and it's a winner.