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Showing posts from September, 2011

Nuit D'Orient by Honore Payan

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I received a sample of this when my bottle of Patchouli arrived last month. I wore it a few times in order to form an opinion of it. After 3 wearings, I'm still not quite sure if I like it or not. Normally, I can decide one way or another by now. Overall, Nuit D'Orient is pleasant enough, but it's the vanilla rendition that hasn't convinced me. After 10 minutes, it resembles the smell of a vanilla candle that has just been extinguished. I admit to not liking the smell of any candle that has just been blown out. However, the vanilla note is fine during the opening and drydown. The hour or more in between I find it mildly irritating. Nuit D'Orient comes in a huge bottle. It's a bulk purchase of 250ml and comes with a 30ml. spray bottle from France. It lists Bergamot, Cedar, Lemon, Patchouli, Rose, Musk, Vanilla, Benzoin and Amber. Upon application, I get a noticeable citrus note along with vanilla. The vanilla rendition is slightly scratchy until the drydown w

ERBE Sandalo Sandalwood

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Recently, I stumbled across a 3.5oz. bottle of Sandalo Sandalwood by ERBE Profumi on ebay. It had 50% remaining and since I love sandalwood, I placed a lowball bid and ended up winning it. I had never heard of it before let alone smell it. When it arrived, I was anxious to try it and figured it would be a dud. I say that because I have systematically tried almost all the sandalwood scents that get any love or attention. Since I never heard of this one, the silence spoke volumes. Sometimes, what you don't hear is misleading. It didn't take me one minute of wearing Sandalo to find it related to Villoresi's Sandalo. I immediately thought it a lighter rendition, but it had the rough characteristics of Lorenzo's releases. There's nothing creamy here or remotely resembling a smooth woody. This is very masculine with edges and no apologies. It's full bodied without being loud and commits itself to being a close fragrance within minutes of application. Don't be

Fendi for Women

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A few years ago ( and immediately following Fendi's announcement to discontinue their line) I happened upon a sealed 50ml. Fendi for $9.99 in K-Mart. What I didn't realize was just how good this scent is. It was released in 85, but I cannot recollect ever smelling this on anyone. Of course, I purchased it and gave it to Mrs. Aromi. She wore it that night and I knew this was a terrific blind buy. It's indicative of the 1980's but in a very fashionable and classy way. I've since read some disheartening reviews that claim it smells like insecticide and generic bug spray. This aura is also found in Krizia Moods and to an extent, in Giorgio Beverly Hills. It's not a bug spray accord but instead a combination of aldehyde, citrus, cedar oil, rosewood, carnation and geranium. Insecticide never smelled so good. The way these notes are used in the aforementioned scents gives them an almost "fuzzy" texture. Fendi really smells exceptional when misted. It seem

Boss Spirit

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Allow me to begin this by saying that it is unintentional for 3 Boss fragrances to be reviewed in a row. Well......almost in a row. It's simply coincidence.  For about 2 years now I have been on the fence about buying Boss Spirit. All my research dictated I would love this and it surely would be the best Boss release of them all. I have been known to be wrong ( just ask Mrs. Aromi ), but I was pretty certain about this one. I thank God that I have become a bit smarter in my buying habits. Until recently, I would buy certain fragrances blind and naturally they would be bottles. Suffice it to say I've had my share of hits and misses, but the misses started to become very frustrating. I should add that it is probably stupid as well, but that may be a bit harsh as I do not wish to call others who may be reading this stupid. I simply speak for myself. Anyway, back to Boss Spirit. Yes, the one I would love without ever smelling it beforehand. I purchased only a mini to be on th

Xerjoff: Richwood

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Ah, Xerjoff. I knew we'd cross paths someday. While there seem to be dozens of overpriced niche releases, the last four-odd years have seen an explosion in scents that set one back more than two-hundred dollars. When the prices get this high, the perfumes have to be that much better to make them worth my while. Give me a great fragrance and I'll shell over a hundred dollars. Give me a holy grail in a much-loved category ( e.g. gardenias, leather frags ) and I might shell out over two-hundred dollars. Ask me for four-hundred dollars and smelling your fragrance has to be the equivalent of Apollo sticking his fingers up my nose and zapping my brain full of everlasting ecstasy. Rolling in at 635$, Richwood is begging a lot from me before I even open the tester vial, and not selling to me with its name. I know it's trying to appeal to the simpler sorts among the nouveau riche, instinctively drawn to Prosperityphallus in a bottle, but to me it's the

Boss Elements

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I can't say I'm a big Hugo Boss fan, but to be fair, I haven't sampled enough of this house to really decide one way or another. I can say I'm opened minded and decided to review a few offerings that have recently found their way into my clutches. I am aware of a snobbery that exists against Boss fragrances in general. That aside, it's simply best to judge each frag on its own merits or shortcomings. Boss Elements seems to have some fans and as I sample it, I can see why some like it. It wears casual, a bit innocuous and perhaps generic, but it's pleasant enough. Not everything needs to be groundbreaking or is supposed to be. Boss Elements certainly isn't incendiary, but it's an easy wear and would be appropriate for basically any occasion. There's nothing polarizing here to offend unless you have an aversion to musk. It has good sillage and the longevity is commendable. The first thing I notice upon application is the musk note. In spite of be

Arabian Nights by Jesus Del Pozo

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A friendly basenoter by the name of blackened recently sent me an unsolicited sample pack of Del Pozo's Arabian Nights. I had been trying for quite awhile to get info pertaining to the availability of this release and found it to be non existent here in the USA. He was kind enough to send me some to try and naturally I took him up on his generous offer. Before trying Arabian Nights, I held the assumption that it would be similar to Bogart's release of the same name. I had a bottle of that and found it interesting. I let it go since Mrs. Aromi absolutely detested it and I didn't love it enough to keep it. The Del Pozo is a likable oud for me. I have a hard time with this particular note, but there's "something" in even the ones I don't like that keeps me searching for one that will work for me. I feel steamrolled by most Montale renditions and the oud version in ( let's say ) Oudy Woody comes off as distinct body odor aroma. So.......hoping this w

Etienne Aigner's Super Fragrance for Women

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I finally get to review Aigner's Super Fragrance for Women. For some time now, the masculine Super Fragrance is about the best I own and maybe the best I've ever smelled. Patou Pour Homme is a contender for 1st place as well, but this isn't about them. I've been meaning to get around to reviewing this scent as I've had it for awhile now. I would sample it, consider it, then postpone my opinion since it smells completely butch to me. This rocks the old school way and leans masculine. It's different than Super Fragrance for Men, but is as dense and rich as its brother. I truly can't picture smelling this on a woman but hey.....what the hell do I know? The Jasmin does its very best to tip the scales, but fails due to the implementation of other players. Super Fragrance opens with a spicy citric blast that's on the dark side. It's edgy from the sage and galbanum and softened just a bit from a hint of tarragon. I find tarragon to be a subtle green not

Santalum ( Old & New ) by Profumum

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I love Sandalwood done right. Basenotes will attest to the fact that there are numerous sandal dominant scents that achieve cult status in some fashion. Some will swear by Egoiste, some by Villoresi, others claim Maitre Parfumeur has the best. I guess it simply boils down to what our own noses interpret. Profumum has never achieved stardom in this debate among basenoters like lesser fragrances have simply because it isn't sampled as widely as other houses. True, there are those who are aware of Santalum and recognize it's a terrific scent, but the majority think only of others when trying to choose the best sandalwood fragrance. I believe price and bottle size has something to do with this. I'm fortunate in that I got to try this some years ago while it was still the dark, oily rendition. Make no mistake about the new, light colored version though. It has grown on me and actually has better projection than its older sibling. I wore both again last night and this morning

Tocade by Rochas (vintage formula)

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Poor Mrs. Aromi. She has been repeatedly subjected to every scent known to man ( good, bad and ugly ) and has been a good sport about it all. Hell, she doesn't even wear fragrance except for ( ahem.......date night ).... and that consists of one half spray or dab of whatever she feels appropriate for the moment. This one however had her literally running to the sink to wash off within 10 seconds flat. It caused her outward pain ( as I laughed my ass off ), but there was no mistaking her hating this one. Oh well........ As for me, I feel differently about Tocade. It's ambery and pretty strong mind you, but it has merit. It roars out of the bottle with a deluge of slightly bitter florals mingled with citrus. The green note really inserts some contrast and I can see where some may find this a bit off-putting. Geranium, Freesia, Violet, Jasmine, Rose and Muguet are some pretty strong players and they strut their stuff in Tocade. This isn't for wallflowers, that's for

Feminite du Bois by Shiseido

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I recently scored a mini of this along with Basara on evilbay. I really pulled the trigger for the Basara/Basala since it's one of my favorites. The reviews on FdB however had my interest piqued. Let's just say that there's no mistaking this for anything but a Lutens. I find the thumbprint unmistakably Serge. In spite of my history with Lutens per se  this is a good fragrance. A few of the notes are predominant throughout the life of the scent, yet there is a multitude of other players. This release is from 1992 ( I believe) and today this would be marketed as "shared" and probably don a different name. Chene seems to be from the same genre as this except it is woodier than FdB. I find this Shiseido very wearable and wonder what it would smell like layered with Chene. No matter, Feminite du Bois spotlights hints of peach, plum, cinnamon and clove overlaid on a subtle bed of cedar. Only in the extended drydown do I take note of soft spoken vanilla and a hint of

Acquae Nobilis by Profumum

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After sampling this a few times, the first thing I noticed about Acquae Nobilis was the implementation of a subtle absinthe. It immediately reminded me of Macassar's rendition of the note, but much more low key than the Rochas. Allow me, once again, to thank my friend AnthonyDG for his generosity. No......Acquae Nobilis does not smell like Macassar. It's simply the opening note I'm referring to. That only lasts a few minutes before blending into a dry and somewhat grassy accord. The interplay of geranium and vetiver is what this fragrance is all about. The absinthe note is well played and adds a dimension that would otherwise be lacking in this linear scent. Profumum has a proclivity for simple structure and rich implementation. Usually three or four notes of a denser nature seem to do it for them. I've found I like their mindset only because what they use is quality material. Like I've mentioned in other reviews, it doesn't mean I'll buy it or deem it a

Antico Caruso by Profumum

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My good friend AnthonyDG recently sent me a very healthy atomizer of this to sample. Thank you bro. As always, you're awesome. LS list the notes as Citrus, Almond and Sandalwood. Is Antico Caruso as linear as that? Yes, it is a linear scent with no noticeable transitions ( on me at least ). As soon as it is applied, you know you're wearing a quality fragrance. It doesn't mean you will like it or purchase it, but when a scent is well made, you take notice. The citrus and almond duo take on a slightly bitter quality. There's an aura of tonka from these two or perhaps there's an unlisted tonka note. It doesn't matter really. The citrus smells like a mandarin with peel and the almond note is at the exact same volume. It takes some time for me to appreciate any woodiness as I am enjoying the opening. There's a slight powder reminiscent of what I usually get from tonka and it goes well with the bitter bite of almond. It's a contrast that works in this simp

Je suis un Homme by Etat Libre d'Orange

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Hmmmmm........an image of a handgun with the head of a penis on the very end of the barrel? Is it loaded? Maybe it shoots blanks? This is a strange house with what I presume uses successful gimmicks. The last thing I wanted before sampling this ( Thanks AnthonyDG !!!) was a Secretions crony. That stuff made me almost throw up in my mouth and the phallic image has me wondering what the hell this is going to smell like. The ad direction has this pegged as a real macho fragrance that also can be worn by assertive women. Well, fear not. This is actually a conventional citrus that wears lightly. I don't know how this is marketed as a testosterone heavyweight. The opening is a bright citric accord that I find enjoyable. Looking at the listed notes, it seems this should be an interesting fragrance overall. After 15 minutes, the scent is already waning in power and projection, but it still smells pleasant. A very mild clove weaves its way into the accord along with subtle leather. When

Mukhalat Malaki C.P.O. by Swiss Arabian

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Turkish Rose. Spanish Saffron, Indian Amber, Cambodian Agarwood. Sandalwood, Musk. My skin type has always been the great equalizer; soaking up scent like a malnourished sponge. It does however react in a more positive manner when applying oils. Mukhalat Malaki is not absorbed quickly, even when blended with lotions and manages to stay on top of the skin. It's "throw" is rather impressive initially, but its longevity is even more remarkable. Dark, heavy wood is an apt description of Mukhalat Malaki. A petroleum vibe is present and hovers in the background, but in no way do I find it distracting, annoying or too prominent. If anything, I find it interesting and adds to the mysterious quality that is inherent in this CPO. The oil is rather thick and must be distributed over as large an area as possible. Truly, a little goes a long way here and this is why I favor adding a few milliliters to full bottles of unscented lotions. I get good mileage this way and easy