Il Mondo di Odore

Clary Sage, Geranium, Storax. Ambergris, Coriander, Oud, Saffron. Myrrh, Sandalwood, Vetiver. Recently, I was thinking of revising my review of Ambre Precieux by this house. I like updating them because my taste has evolved, with some of my past reviews being rather blunt and not descriptive enough for my own liking. I ended up buying a bottle of Ambre Dore instead and since they are siblings, I've concluded the AP review is unnecessary at this time. Personally, I like Ambre Dore best out of the two. There's no sense in my comparing sillage and longevity because that would amount to splitting hairs. Both are very acceptable, so I'll leave it at that. Ambre Dore seperates itself during the first half of the wearings due to a resinous, feral quality. This comes about because the combination of Ambergris and Oud dictate that it does. It borders on skank, but not the repulsive variety. There's smoke in this brew once the heart accord commences and this is where it...

Mandarin, Bergamot, Lemon, Geranium. Leather, Ylang Ylang, Jasmine, Iris, Rose, Vanilla, Musk, Ambergris, Patchouli, Cedar, Sandalwood. It's always nice to wear a release by this house. Even the ones I don't care for manage to gain my respect in some fashion. Cuir Fetiche is a leathery floral that, in reality, is suitable for either gender. The opening leans a bit feminine for me, but it evolves within minutes to appease my need for a more obvious and masculine character. The citric top is bright, almost sparkly with an immediate contribution from jasmine. This salutation is very good and a testament to the excellent blending that manifests in the remainder of the fragrance. Within 5 minutes, Cuir Fetiche has shed its initial greeting of citrus and morphs into leathery-floral mode. This stage is androgynous and smells dense without the usual heaviness. The entire floral array contributes and by the heart accord, the result is a realization of all the listed notes yo...

Myrrh, Tarragon, Coffee Beans, Incense, Ylang Ylang, Labdanum, Patchouli, Vetiver, Galbanum. Simply by looking at the listed notes, would you think this a strange brew? You'd be correct in assuming such. I almost laughed at the opening. Not because it's horrendous, but because it's truly eclectic. Not since the original Ted Lapidus ( 1978 ) have I been encapsulated in a shroud of smoke such as this. The difference here is that Eau des Iles pilfers you with a strange coffee haze that's slightly burnt and accented with an undercurrent of myrrh and incense. I like it more than I don't like it........but that aside, I tip my cap to Mr. Laporte for his prodigious output in the year 1988. Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier took numerous chances and that bravado is why enthusiasts have respect for this house. After 10 minutes or so, the smoke dissipates noticeably and signals the arrival of patchouli and vetiver. This duo was actually churning underneath from the onset, b...

This review is of the reformulated 100ml. rendition. I wore the original version in the past and it almost succeeded in removing my nasal passages without the assistance of a scalpel. Because of that, I avoided trying this newer creation. I'm glad I grew a set. Every now and then, I run across a reformulation that works better for me than the original. It isn't often mind you, but it's happened a few times. Now, I'm not claiming that YOU will like it better than the original. I, for one, do and find the 90ml. version too harsh for my tastes. Route du Vetiver consists of : Bourbon vetiver, Blackcurrant, Precious woods, Jasmin, Sandalwood and Musk. RdV has with a strangely familiar "wool" aroma reminiscent to that of Parfum d'Habit. They're not the same, but I get the wool vibe in both. It is toned down in RdV, but find it noticeable enough to mention it. I can only attribute this to the vetiver and blackcurrant combinations. I actually like it muc...

MPG is a house I have liked since I first tried any of their releases. While it may be true that not every one I have tried ( or owned ) was what I consider a great fragrance, they all offered uniqueness. It's also true that they are well made scents. The bottles however are a love-it-or-hate-it affair. Personally, I like the vintage 90ml. bottles much better than the 100ml. They are fashioned like cut glass and have a spray mechanism that screws off. It's much easier to decant from these 90ml. bottles than being forced to spray into a funnel. Iris Bleu Gris is a release I assumed I'd be more or less indifferent to. I figured I'd like it to a degree since it's an MPG frag, but to own an iris dominant scent is another matter altogether. Much to my surprise, Iris Bleu Gris ( as expected ) features iris, but no where is it dominated by it in the conventional sense. The iris, on my skin, isn't a very powdery rendition either and is rather a toned down version of...

There's something about MPG fragrances that I like and find comforting. The years from 1988 to 1991 seem prolific for releases and of course quite a few have been reformulated since then. I have recently been able to sample Centaure ( Jean Laporte 1991) and naturally perused some reviews before trying it. The opinions seem to range from great to mediocre. I am compelled to throw my review into the ring as well since I am fond of this house. Take note however that, despite my favoritism, I have come across a few from MPG that I will never like or wear. I didn't know what to expect from Centaure. The complaints were " too much lavender" or "too much mint" or " too much of both". I say nonsense. The opening is a smooth accord of citric mint with a woody undertone. In about 5 minutes, a soft lavender mingled with jasmin start rearing their heads. Centaure, at this point, seems fairly linear, but well executed and pleasant smelling. I am already thi...

Blackcurrant, Bergamot, Petitgrain. Leather, Geranium, Patchouli, Incense. Sandalwood, Amber, Vanilla. The image to the left is the current rendition, but the review is of the vintage formula. I have yet to smell the new version, so I can not speak of any comparisons. The opening accord of Parfum d'habit is one of the more challenging greetings you will encounter from a perfume. I still find this fragrance a tough wear and I know there are folks out there who love this juice. I have the utmost respect for Parfum d'Habit. Every time I wear it, I'm reminded that this scent is like Beauty and the Beast. My instantaneous reaction to applying Parfum d'Habit is damp wool underneath a leather saddle. I understand not everyone gets the wool comparison, but it's intense on my skin and front and center. The ratios of Blackcurrant, Leather and Patchouli come into being as a wool accord that's slightly prickly. It's rather amazing and as unique a triumvira...

As a fan of certain vetiver renditions, it has taken me multiple wearings to conclude that I simply do not like this version in any way, shape or form. I generally like Maitre Parfumeur offerings, but no house can please everyone all the time. I know there are fans of this particular fragrance and I surmise that only diehard vetiver fans could appreciate the earthy and dirty medicinal qualities Route du Vetiver brings to the table. There is an overshadowing tincture methiolate aroma hovering over this scent that is very off-putting to me. The combination of black currant, green notes and bourbon vetiver give off a resinous dirt that, to me, isn't attractive for purposes of scent. Others may and have disagreed with this assumption, but it is only one mans opinion. These notes shut out the listed jasmin on my skin. I believe if the jasmin was more pronounced, it would have taken this accord into a positive direction. The sandal is usurped here as well, but what it seems to acco...

When I wear Fraiche Badiane, I imagine a lush topography near moving water. The area is serene with gentle, moist breezes carrying the aroma of tart tangelos and prodigious trees. The topiary yields star anise and the air is filled with licorice, tangerine and orange skins, very subtle herbs and the dew of the garden. The atmosphere remains damp and the circulating aromas refresh the spirit. The feeling is revitalizing and in contrast to those who believe that smells aren't capable of being life affirming. Fraiche Badiane isn't a magical fragrance, but it's an excellent fresh scent that has stood the test of time and walked out unscathed. The fragrance is listed to have Lemon, Tangerine, Star Anise and Patchouli in the base accord. As a patch fan, I'm hard pressed to admit smelling it in a conventional fashion. I do get a very likable earthiness that's even tempered and commensurate with the volume of anise. Fraiche Badiane is a vibrant winner and suitable...

MPG is responsible for L'Eau du Tailluers. It has taken a few full wearings of this to appreciate it; especially the rhubarb and bitter orange twist. L'Eau opens with mild aldehydes and citrus,coupled with rhubarb and fig. The fruit notes combined with orange leaf give off a softened ,violet-like accord making the packaging totally appropriate. The scent is fresh, yet substantial. Artemesia, Cedar and Cypress give this some gravity and body, but do not overtake the aura. The wood lurks beneath and is content to co-exist. The heart is a spicy, but low key floral with Jasmin, Iris and Rose, however I do not get the listed patchouli. The fragrance has enough gravitas and earth tone without a dominant patch note. L'Eau du Tailleurs is hard to put your finger on. It's fresh, yet serious. There's nothing carefree about it, but it's not sobering either. Bottom line is that it's a well constructed shared fragrance with quality written all over it. If you are f...

1988 saw Jean Laporte release Ambre Precieux. 88 was a good year for Jean it seems. This is one of Maitre Parfumeurs best alongside Santal Noble. The top accord is superbly blended ( as is the entire fragrance )  and I can detect the slightest hint of quality lavender over ambergris and vanilla. At first, I thought I there was a pastry aroma in the accord, but upon further introspection, it seems there is a spice note as fragile and interwoven as the lavender giving me this impression. This is one of those scents that has you continually sniffing yourself. The vanilla seems to incrementally escalate along with a dash of cinnamon. After 10 minutes, the scent has evolved in its entirety on me. It has very nice sillage and even better longevity. Ambre Precieux is a sweet, van-amber, yet not cloying. This is terrific if you are partial to ambers with subtle aromatic spice thrown in the mix. Jean......great job once again.

It's hard to believe Jean Laporte created this terrific sandalwood scent 21 years ago. This is a must have for sandalwood lovers who like it served up a bit different and borderline creamy. I have, in the past, re-reviewed this particular scent so many times that I'm literally sick of hearing myself blather about it. However, for the sake of honesty and accuracy, I have to revise it this one, last time and keep it at that. I decided to review the one that I own and keep in my wardrobe. That ONE is the original release. I've owned other versions as I've already stated, but the original release is the one I did a full 180 on and now wonder how on earth I didn't love this the first time around. It could be that it's not the most conventional creation you will put your nose to, but I guarantee it's one of the most unique you'll have the honor to smell. The "coffee" accord isn't exactly what I would call an accurate description of wh...