Il Mondo di Odore

Basil, Bergamot, Coriander, Lavender, Petitgrain, Rosemary, Lemon. Fern, Geranium, Heliotrope, Clary Sage, Carnation, Patchouli, Vetiver, Cedarwood, Cinnamon. Ambergris, Moss, Musk, Tonka Bean, Vanilla. This 1968 release of Lacoste by Patou shows the lighter side of Jean Kerleo. This is in line with the overall image it tries to project. Golf, fairways and a sporty-casual aura depicts Lacoste rather well. I've had this on again for about 30 minutes. I'm rather impressed with the totality of it. There are many listed notes , but repeated sniffing assures me this was made in a different era. It has a certain gravitas, even though it's a "sport" fragrance.  The citrus, spice, herbal and earthy qualities are all present and accounted for. It smells completely appropriate to wear in the spring-summer months regardless of being involved in an activity. The carnation adds that classic masculine touch and seems to come to the fore a bit more as the weari...

Orange, Grapefruit, Lavender, Sage, Sandalwood,      Cedar,     Oakmoss. Voyageur is a different type of fragrance from the House of Patou and released in 1995. The 1990's was an exercise in moving away from the powerhouse masculines of the eighties. Sure, there were still "substantial" creations here and there, but nothing like the preceding decade. In hindsight, this probably wasn't the best timing or marketing from Patou, but at least they came up with something that was contemporary and potentially competitive with the onslaught of aquatic releases. This particular sample I'm reviewing was sent to me courtesy of a generous and knowledgeable Basenote member by the name of epapsoui. The opening of Voyageur is overall familiar, yet pleasant. I find this a better fragrance 23 years after its release than I ever would have at the time it came out. I would have expected a more complicated and innovative creation from this house and that would have ( mor...

Virginian Cedar, Javanese Patchouli, Haitian Vetiver, Australian Sandalwood, Frankincense, Madagascar Vanilla, Tonka Beans, Tolu Balsam, Musk. I reviewed this particular scent in November 2009 and it was an extremely brief one at that. I had just started the blog then, so more than 6 years later is ample time to revisit this release. Acquiring another bottle of this is also good reason to do so, so without further ado...... Wearing Elixir by Reminiscence, I'm reminded not only how good this house does Patchouli, but how this particular release leans masculine although marketed to women. I own and truly enjoy Eau de Patchouli by Reminiscence. That one is in the center of the gender line and a brighter rendition. Elixir is woods and earth tones galore. It's darker, more masculine and not as transparent. All patchouli, to some, is of the head shop variety. They cannot distinguish nuances since the note is permeating and strong if it's a featured note. Since I truly...

                                         Woods, Amber, Agarwood, Vanilla. About 3 years ago, Coutureguru from Parfumo sent me samples of assorted ouds. I still appreciate his generosity, as a few of them have found their way into my wardrobe. I don't recall liking or disliking Sama by Hamidi, but I will say my tastes have evolved since 2013. Funny how the passage of time can have you acclimating to scents that you previously recoiled from. Mind you, there's numerous ouds I still don't like, but that's the nature of this beast. Sama, by Hamidi Oud and Perfumes is an oil. I understand it also comes in EDP, but to find either available in the States is extremely difficult. The oil that I'm wearing the last few days is extremely linear ( as you would expect ), but really good. The oud note is tuned perfectly for me and I enjoy the balance. This particular rendition of oud ...

Labdanum Ciste, Coriander, Orange, Davana, Frankincense, Blackberry, Honey, Bay, Cinnamon, Orchid, Rose, Clove, Celery Seeds, Gaiac Wood, Patchouli, Opoponax, Myrrh, Atlas Cedarwood, Musk, Moss, Ambergris, Oud Wood, Immortelle. Since I no longer have any previous-formula Jubilation XXV to do a side-by-side, it makes this review easier. I liked it 6 years ago and I still like; enough so that I purchased a bottle with the magnetic cap. There are some differences, but no deterrents and the current is certainly not inferior. What I do notice about the current Jubilation is that it's a more linear wear. The volume was never boisterous to begin with and it remains as such. The Frankincense is the theme on my skin with assists from an array of notes that are fairly seamless. There's intermittent whiffs of clove, woods, earth and herbs and they accent instead of bloom. Others may experience something different than I, but at least during my wearings, the Incense sits smack in...

Bergamot, Lavender, Geranium, Jasmine, Nutmeg, Cinnamon, Clove, Cedar, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Patchouli, Musk, Vanilla. Pictured is the more commonly recognized refill bottle. The original is actually quite nice, but aesthetics aside, the fragrance remains the same no matter the container. For those who have enjoyed Cacharel pour Homme, you will probably like this one as well. Micallef #31 was released in 2009, 28 years after Cacharel made its debut. What they have in common is the unabashed use of spices; namely nutmeg. I no longer have Cacharel, but it was in my wardrobe for quite a few years. A side by side is no longer possible, but I can say that Micallef #31 is stronger in presence, sillage and longevity. It reminds me ( as does the Cacharel ) of a Christmas-time fragrance. It's the spices that give me this impression. I'm also inclined to pick this scent on overcast, dreary type days when the temps are cool to cold. The Nutmeg, Cinnamon and Clove merged with Gera...

Cedar, Sandalwood, Amber, Patchouli, Vanilla, White Musk, Tonka Bean. The house of Guerlain has Guerlainade and to my nose, West Third Brand has what I can only call Brandinade. Naturally, it's econo-class and considering the price point, it stands to reason. Ambre Notti has the DNA I've become familiar with when sampling West Third Brand. Their signature rendition of Vanilla is incorporated in quite a few of their releases. I will say that their vanilla note isn't sickly sweet or have space clearing presence. It's no where near as dense or permeating as other implementations. It's identifiable and mellow and this gives it some versatility. What does disappoint me however is the Amber; or should I say the lack of its personality. In Ambre Notti, the accords seem to be blurred. I get the vanilla and I also experience a fullness overall. I suppose I would have liked better renditions of everything listed here, but it is what it is. The totality is fine. Th...