xmen and the entire accord progression is intact. Sweet !!! I have not had the opportunity to sample the reformulated Tsar, so my opinion is reserved for the original.
This is a 1989 Fresh Fougypre from VCA and since most are familiar with Pour Homme, Tsar seems to be somewhat overlooked. I love the openings in 80's style Fresh Fougere/Chypre fragrances and naturally, Tsar does not disappoint.
Tsar opens with a slightly aromatic citric lavender made slightly edgy and bitter compliments of artemesia and neroli. It is a smooth accord and gives off a subtle damp or moist aura. I only get that in the opening and as the scent unfolds, it becomes more relaxed and dry.
The heart accord is what differentiates Tsar from others of its ilk. The use of juniperberry is adept and lends the perfect volume of herbaceousness to a spicy floral combo. The heart is actually impressive and utilizes carnation, jasmin, muguet, orris and rose. It's a unique balancing act and is well executed. The topnotes give way to this accord in a seamless fashion.
The base is full of Chypre-style heavies, but never does Tsar step on the sillage accelerator. It remains polite and the notes in this accord are respectful of one another. The amber-tonka never overstep their bounds and quietly restrain the leather,moss and patchouli from going over to the dark side. There is also a subtle musk in there as well that becomes apparent in extended drydown. All things being equal, vintage Tsar is most assuredly good to go and wardrobe worthy for classic frag lovers.