Tuesday, January 15, 2013
Santal Majuscule by Serge Lutens
Anyone who has previously perused this blog knows by now that I really enjoy certain interpretations of sandalwood. The ones that don't ( or can't ) live up to expectations are ones that I usually find some redeeming things about. As is normal for The Serge, this rendition is somewhat unconventional and not what I anticipated. That's not to say Santal Majuscule isn't viable, because it is. You simply have to think a bit outside the box. I'm quite certain that's where Serge lives.
Sandalwood? Yes, there's Sandalwood here, but it's Serge's version, so take that for what it's worth. I anticipated a dominant theme in this fragrance, but it's more of a concerted effort. There's a slightly creamy rendition of sandal supported equally by an offbeat blend of florals with a bite. The "Cocoa" note ( on me ) is not definitive, gourmand or anywhere near what I consider that aroma to be. It could be the interaction of my skin, but what I do experience is an intermittent, slightly burnt resin. It comes and goes of its own accord. Perhaps the tuning of "Rose" and "Cocoa" are what's responsible for this. Then again, it simply could be all the other unlisted ingredients coming to fruition on yours truly. Either way, it doesn't matter because I feel dispassionate.
This release is closer to dull than it is captivating, yet as harsh as that sounds, Santal Majuscule is still a pleasant enough wear. There's no shock value, unexpected twists or turns or utter repulsion. This is nothing more than the Serge's current idea of Sandalwood. These same ingredients, in the hands of other perfumers, would no doubt perform in a more mainstream fashion. I would rather smell this.
Sillage is average with longevity approximately 5 hours on my skin. A positive-neutral rating from Aromi for the Serge's Santal Majuscule. As always, a sample wear is highly recommended.