Cuiron by Helmut Lang

Bergamot, Mandarin.
Cinnamon, Pepper.
Labdanum, Chamois, Tobacco.

Cuiron is yet another fragrance that left me completely underwhelmed years ago. It had already achieved legendary status before I ever got around to trying it. I expected something completely different than what I got and as such, I gave it a neutral review and called it dull and ordinary. I desired polarization and was rewarded with convention instead.

I have read some old fragrance forum threads comparing Cuiron to the 1978 release of Ted Lapidus. I do not experience those similarities. While they both may share some of the same dominant notes, Lapidus is a study in "perfect smoke" while Cuiron is much more introverted and demure. I tested these side by side and not from memory since what one recalls can sometimes be a bit hazy.

Years have now past and it was high time to put Cuiron to the test once again. I will say that I have a better appreciation of Helmut Lang's creation these days. I'm past the stage where striking or volatile are necessary ingredients and have come to the place where smooth, slightly passive and polite are as welcome as those fragrances making a statement. Cuiron seems to be more about comfort set on moderate volume. The overall attenuation is very commendable and its magic is the balance of ingredients.

Cuiron comes to life on the skin already blended and supple. The transitions are minor and the result of the top accord lowering its volume a notch. The citrus is dense from first sniff and is fattened up by the implementation of suede.

The spices are also apparent from the initial spray and they too are tuned for accentuation rather than statement. What I notice in my recent wearings is a sandalwood lying in wait and bolstering the leather accord.

Helmut Lang's Cuiron is a very nice scent. I cannot say it's worth the prices it commands these days, but discontinuation and rarity have a way of raising the price point of even the mundane and ordinary. Cuiron is much better than that however and if smooth, supple leather with spice and underlying wood are your thing, you may want to hunt down a sample of this. The extended dryown reveals some nice resin as well, resulting in a comfortable scent becoming even easier to wear. Three years ago, I was sarcastic about the description of " Fluid, Sensual and Noble leathers augmented with Suede". I no longer am.

Thumbs up from Aromi for Cuiron. Due to current market prices and availability, a sample wear is definitely recommended.