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Hanae Mori

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This Woody Oriental-Gourmand was released a dozen years ago. Hard to believe it's already been that long ago.

I have read reviews of HM and the complaints of it being overtly sweet. I don't believe this is a cloying fragrance. The opening is a very good citric lavender. There is sweetness apparent from the initial spray, but it's not over the top and the lemon is well executed.

In spite of the listed notes, the floral heart consisting of iris, jasmin, muguet and rose only introduce jasmin on my skin. Normally, I am very aware of iris, lily or rose, but I cannot detect them here. I get a balanced jasmin note that integrates itself with the citrus and lavender. The result is a very nice accord in spite of what I consider the missing florals.

The same thing happens to me with the base accord. I detect the arrival of chocolate and then shortly thereafter a very subtle vanilla along with it. It's not until the extended drydown there is a feint and wispy woody amber. I get no moss, but HM does fine without it.

All things considered, HM is a borderline gourmand with oriental leanings and is pretty damn good. I can see this scent working well in spring and autumn and would smell great on either sex.
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