Patchouli In Hippie City: Two Side-By-Side Wearings

Le Labo Patchouli 24 vs. Comme des Garcons Luxe: Patchouli

Patchouli 24 goes on smelling less of patchouli and more of smoke. This particular version of the surprisingly numerous birch-tar bonfire genre smells strongly to my nose of the charcoal people use to the BBQ with, but thankfully, Le Labo saves us the roasting meat ( yes, that's a nod to you, Lonestar Memories ). There's a petrochemical edge, here, too, as though you can still smell the gasoline used to set it on fire.

The drydown, however, leads to something much more pleasant. The patchouli finally comes out from hiding, and it's a soft, cushion-like thing given a pleasant, lightly smoky edge.

The longevity is less than I expect from a patchouli, but decent, and the same goes for the sillage.

Luxe: Patchouli is another beast entirely. The top notes are very pleasantly peppery and smoky, but very brief, as almost immediately the immortelle leaps forward and dominates the blend through the heart notes. Fairly quickly it settles down into a gorgeous groove, a perfect balance between the curry-like immortelle and the sweet patchouli, balanced by a tea note and something subtly floral.

If all this sounds too much like food, it's not, as the sweetness of the fragrance is quite understated for a fragrance focused on two notes that can easily dive off the deep end into cloying. It's bold, but has a key element of restraint that makes it magical rather than cloying.

In essence, it's Sables, all grown up and making a six-figure income in the city.

I'm not sure it's worth my money for a full bottle ( though I certainly have my eye on Patchouli's equally charming sister, Champaca ), but one thing is for sure: it's a must-try for any lover of patchouli.

Serge Lutens Borneo 1834 vs. Chanel Coromandel

Borneo is a rich and simple blend of chocolate and patchouli. Nothing more, nothing less, but well-done and almost tastable through the nose.

Sadly, this one is a victim of skin chemistry. On paper, the delightful cocoa and patchouli accord carry on as equals deep into the drydown, but on skin, the cocoa gives up the ghost after the top notes, and I'm left with a patchouli too plain to warrant regular wear, especially at Serge pricing.

Longevity and sillage are excellent, as with most patchouli fragrances.

Clearly inspired by the aforementioned, Coromandel is a fragrance on a higher level in terms of refinement and complexity. Both are grounded in a patchouli and chocolate accord, and given that Sheldrake made both Borneo and Coromandel, I can't help but think of Borneo as the rough draft and Coromandel as the finished product.

Here, chocolate and patchouli combine in a brighter and more piquant way than in Borneo, something less earthy and gourmand and better integrated. Like most Chanels, it's abstract, smooth, and slightly "polished".

There is definitely a three-tiered progression, and the heart has a dose of birch tar to my nose; a hint of burnt, woody, medicinal woodiness that takes an edge off the voluptuousness of patchouli.

The base is almost a return to the top notes, but sweeter and resinous; labdanum seems evident.

Patchouli 24

House: Le Labo
Perfumer: Annick Menardo
Release Date: 2006
Stars: 3

Patchouli

House: Commes des Garcons
Parfumer: Antoine Maisondieu
Release Date: 2007
Stars: 5

Borneo 1834

House: Serge Lutens
Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake
Release Date: 2001
Stars: 3

Coromandel

House: Chanel
Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake
Release Date: 2007
Stars: 5