Guerlain Derby ( Current Bee Bottle and Vintage formula)

First off, allow me to thank a very generous basenoter who goes by the name of Oaksbluff for sending me samples of not only the current formula, but the vintage as well. Dan was awesome enough to offer when he read a thread I initiated on the price point of this highly esteemed masculine. My gratitude to Dan.....especially since this isn't the first time he sent me some gems.....

I opted to sample the current formula from the Bee Bottle first. Aside from it being very smooth and ( of course) very good, the first thing that sprang to my mind is how similar it is to Gucci PH circa 1976. Now, I have always loved Gucci PH original and still wear that terrific leather chypre. As a matter of fact, I have another 125ml bottle enroute from my good friend Henry ( xmen) because it is superb. I am amazed enough to consider them first cousins.

It didn't take me long to undergo side by side comparisons of current Derby and Gucci, then both renditions of Derby versus Gucci. This was never meant to be a contest, only to compare since my nose detects a direct relation of all three. The vintage Derby is closer to Gucci with its inherent overall heaviness. This is very common in scents constructed from the mid 1970's to the very early 1990's. Vintage Derby has an all star floral heart that's comparable to Gucci, but definitely superior.

With that said, current Derby begins with a citric woody accord that broadcasts the transitions will have nary a ripple. You can tell immediately that the shifting of accords will be seamless. I believe that is part of the magic that is Derby. The current version possesses a more definable passing of one accord to the next. I think this is one of the few advantages of scents that are lighter in nature. I could not tell when it happened....but just that it did. The vintage, being heavier in ingredients, moves slower due to denseness and maintains a common aura from start to finish. It's not linear as much as it is like a glacier carving a landscape. Being the heartnote monster that it is, to me the mids dominate here and it causes me to lose sight of the forest due to the trees.

Both Derby renditions are pretty terrific. My wife loves the current formula whereas I lean toward the heavier vintage. Owning either one is a win-win situation if you enjoy leather chypres. Even though the vintage Derby is more to my liking, its similarities to Gucci ( which I already have enough of) may make it a bit redundant in spite of it being superior to Gucci. To me, it is Gucci ( 1976) with a better floral array. The vintage Derby and Gucci share these same notes :

Artemesia, Bergamot Oil, Lemon, Jasmin, Pepper, Pimento, Leather, Moss, Patchouli & Sandal.

Quite a few of the other notes are replaced by others of the same ilk. They both have a very similar idea on how to get to the same destination. Vintage Derby drives first class while Gucci is a passenger in the upper middle class section. The rest is splitting hairs...............

Suffice it to say that current or vintage Derby is a worthy addition to the drobe. The current is friskier than the vintage, a tad lighter in construction, but a notable leather chypre all the same. I'm not one to pidgeonhole fragrances without cause and I certainly am not trying to do it now. To me, current Derby may be more suitable or wearable for the younger chypre crowd as it is less era-identifiable as it's older brother. Both should be sampled just for the hell of it.......and just because they rock. BIG THUMBS UP from Aromi for either Derby rendition.