Givenchy Xeryus ( Old formula)

You would expect a 1986 release to be the typical no-holds barred, cliched powerbomb, yet sometimes a fragrance from this era will surprise you with quality over volume.

Xeryus is a leathery,floral- fougere that distinguishes itself with smooth masculinity. It doesn't yell or enter the room before you do. I remember a time when I did not like this fragrance, yet life is a confusing experience sometimes. I now hold the original formula of Xeryus in high regard. It's execution of oakmoss could be used as an example to others. ( NOTE***I have not experienced the more recent releases***)

Xeryus is a veritable storeroom of notes, but as we all know, the kitchen sink mentality doesn't always hold water. There's no leaks here however as Xeryus glides through it's seamless transitions like a ballet. I am becoming convinced that, in order for me to appreciate vintage frags more fully and accurately, I must continue to sample-wear the endless, modern schlock that inundates the buying public. It's only this way that I can really "see" just how good some of the classic masculines are that I may dismissed too hastily in the past.

What I notice this time around is the floral array in Xeryus; namely the jasmin-rose combo. The opening is super smooth and for me, the jasmin-rose is right there in the mix. It's actually where I smell this duo the best. A mossy undercurrent is there as well from the initial volley hiding underneath a very fluid accord of citric lavender. The floral array begins to blur after 5 minutes, giving way to wood notes and a hint of green.

I don't recognize incense as others have in the base accord, but the leathery moss is on the earthy side, compliments of vetiver and some musk. A subtle amber is realized in the extended drydown and I can still detect a very determined jasmin-rose in there along with the basenotes.

The volume is very polite and longevity is exceptional. This fragrance is smooth with a capitol S and a winner from the house of Givenchy. Big thumbs up from Aromi for Xeryus.

Comments

Black Suede by Avon

Nutmeg, Clove, Amber, Musk, Moss, Wood Notes. Yes.........I am reviewing one of the Rodney Dangerfield's of fragrance. Black Suede has been gracing medicine cabinets, for better or worse, since 1980 my friends. If you're expecting me to inform you ( like others may have already ) that Black Suede is a nasty scrubber, you will be disappointed. On the other hand, if you're expecting a glowing review claiming it's a diamond in the rough, you won't hear that from me either. I will say though that Black Suede doesn't deserve the hate it's received and most of that is due to snobbery aimed at Avon products in general. I kid you not when I state that a close relative to this fragrance is Cacharel Pour L'Homme. The array of spice in both ensure comparison, but the "smoother" of the two is Black Suede due to its implementation of Amber. While wearing Black Suede, one can detect a hint of "drugstore". That quality doesn't manife...

Chanel copying Guerlain. Why?

Last month, I had the pleasure of trying Comète by Chanel, the latest addition to their prestigious Les Exclusifs line. This fragrance follows the release of Le Lion in 2020, another standout in the same collection. Like Le Lion , Comète is a beautiful perfume that captures the essence of Chanel’s refined elegance. However, both fragrances bear a striking resemblance to classic creations by Guerlain, leading me to ponder the direction Chanel is taking. Chanel has a great fragrance history. Not as hallowed and old as Guerlain but for past three decades it has far outshone Guerlain. In my view, no other perfume house has come close to Chanel’s excellence in this century. This makes their recent approach of echoing Guerlain classics somewhat perplexing. Have they run out of fresh ideas? Is Roger Dove at the helm of their fragrance division, or have they perhaps...

La Chasse Aux Papillons Extreme by L'Artisan Parfumeur

I read many reviews before or after I do my own and I seem to be at complete odds with the house of L'Artisan. I have previously said on basenotes that for me, L'Artisan Parfumeur is the most over-rated house I have come across. La Chasse Aux Papillons Extreme does nothing to sway that opinion. Yet another linear, floral dominant scent that does nothing to stir me up or inspire me in any way. This house has "pleasant" nailed down to an art form......but damn...can't we go beyond that? The only attempt at polarization so far has been Dzongkha ....and I found it a jumbled mess. At these prices, move me, anger me, hate me.......but please don't bore me. Extreme in a nutshell is a toned down tuberose with assorted "blossom" thrown in the mix. Is it bad? No, it's an acceptable floral scent that's very timid and just lays on my skin smelling like....well....a toned down version of tuberose with blossom this or that added to it. I'm almost a...

Il Mondo di Odore

Search This Blog