Friday, July 22, 2011
Centaure by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
The opinions seem to range from great to mediocre. I am compelled to throw my review into the ring as well since I am fond of this house. Take note however that, despite my favoritism, I have come across a few from MPG that I will never like or wear.
I didn't know what to expect from Centaure. The complaints were " too much lavender" or "too much mint" or " too much of both". I say nonsense. The opening is a smooth accord of citric mint with a woody undertone. In about 5 minutes, a soft lavender mingled with jasmin start rearing their heads. Centaure, at this point, seems fairly linear, but well executed and pleasant smelling. I am already thinking of how well this would wear in all sorts of situations since it's well mannered and sans controversy.
Black currant is listed in the heart along with neroli, but if they are in there, I'm missing the boat. The neroli may be trumped by a more assertive jasmin, but the accord is just fine by me. The mint note remains through all the accords but, at least on me, never usurps the overall scent. I truly like the way it's implemented here and admit to this being one of the best renditions using the note I've come across so far. I am not a mint fan by any means, but this is good.
By the drydown, I notice a strong similarity to the base accord in T.Gregory EDP for men. I had to do a side by side at this point to confirm this. The top and mids are different enough, but the drydown is remarkably related. Centaure evolves a very soft, earthy tobacco by this stage and the minty jasmin is right there with it; albeit at the same volume. A very simple, but effective fragrance by Laporte that ( with any luck ) will find its way into my wardrobe shortly. It may not be great, but good is good enough.
Thumbs up from Aromi for MPG's Centaure.