Santalum ( Old & New ) by Profumum

I love Sandalwood done right. Basenotes will attest to the fact that there are numerous sandal dominant scents that achieve cult status in some fashion. Some will swear by Egoiste, some by Villoresi, others claim Maitre Parfumeur has the best. I guess it simply boils down to what our own noses interpret.

Profumum has never achieved stardom in this debate among basenoters like lesser fragrances have simply because it isn't sampled as widely as other houses. True, there are those who are aware of Santalum and recognize it's a terrific scent, but the majority think only of others when trying to choose the best sandalwood fragrance. I believe price and bottle size has something to do with this.

I'm fortunate in that I got to try this some years ago while it was still the dark, oily rendition. Make no mistake about the new, light colored version though. It has grown on me and actually has better projection than its older sibling. I wore both again last night and this morning I can still detect them clearly. The dark rendition has a woodier tone from the onset. It's more baritone than the lighter version and the sandalwood implemented is different than the new release. The sandalwood note smells slightly superior in the dark one and is more prominent throughout the wearing. The cinnamon and myrrh are present, but only as stagehands to the star. The entire life of the scent goes on exactly as it started. Sandalwood front and center with an assist from incense and cinnamon.

The new, light colored version has a different feel to it, but is terrific nonetheless. The sandalwood used in this rendition is very good, but not as deep or up front as the dark one. It's a brighter, more uplifting interpretation. Whereas the dark may be meditative, this one has a more casual aura about it. It's also more balanced with the cinnamon and myrrh. The sandalwood can definitely be smelled, but it's enveloped inside the spicy incense and seems to be blended more meticulously than the dark.

At first, I was indignant that Profumum had changed the formula. This was, after all, my favorite from a house I have a proclivity for. I had plans on saving for a bottle of the original a few years back and then right before I was ready to purchase, they unceremoniously slipped the new rendition in there. I then tried the new release and while recognizing it was very good, my obsession for "original" and also dark colored fragrances tainted my perception a bit. I seem to have a bad habit of equating "dark" for "Substantial and good". Sometimes that theory holds water........and sometimes it leaks......

Suffice it to say that the Santalum that currently is available is the light colored rendition. The more I wear it, the better I like it for it's projection, brightness and longevity. It also helps that it smells great. I have been on the fence for a few years now about purchasing this. It is expensive and the bottle is big enough to last years. I think I may have to pull the trigger soon on this before they change it yet again. I know my vintage Santal Noble will be disappointed if I purchased it. It would then be relegated to the back of the line.