"Knize's distinguished history began in the 19th century, when Habsburg Archdukes contracted its services. Durinng the 1920's with the help of the designer Ernst Dryden, Knize became known throughout the world as the first label of stylish menswear..."
"In producing scents, Knize begins with an overall consideration of how a gentleman appeals to the senses. At the same time "Fashion Design" came about in the 1920's, Knize began producing KNIZE TEN, the world's first series of unique men's fragrances, whose seductive appeal is as strong today as it was eighty years ago".
Knize Ten
A love it or hate it scent and possibly one of the best masculine fragrances ever produced. Knize Ten is a typical, conceptual example of "expensive doesn't always mean good". It is very reasonably priced and at the same time better than almost any other expensive male leather fragrance available on the market.
An prototypical leather fragrance and one of the very few pre-WWII leather compositions that carefully avoided disastrous reformulations. Made by Franoise Coty and Vincent Roubert, Knize Ten is a pillar of earlier perfumery and something we all should preserve from oblivion.
The opening is literally shocking (to me in a good way, but can be challenging to someone) with a severe and breathtaking explosion of leather. If you like it, fine, if you don't, just try to survive for a while. The drydown of Knize Ten turns into an incredibly comfortable and wearable scent. A magnificent, rounded amber smoothes the ever dominant, animalic leather by adjusting its initial severity and harshness with a delightful warmness. Flowery patterns (ylang-ylang and jasmine), some spices and woods has everything smelling so rich and incredibly balanced. It is absolutely distinctive.
Knize became the benchmark of masculine leather fragrances and after eighty years it's still one of the most successful compositions ever. An all time favourite and a great example of how an older, classic perfume can still be tremendous in its ability to transcend trends.
Like it or not, there's only one like it. 
Knize Ten Golden Edition
Launched at the turn of the millennium to celebrate the 75th anniversary of Knize Ten, the Golden Edition strikes me as a "smoother", polished and civilized version of the original. Slightly richer in amber and a toned down leather.
Maybe less compelling than its older brother but still amazing. Could make a fantastic option for anyone who finds the original a tad too challenging.
Knize Two
Launched in 1978. A promising opening with a clean mix of aldehydes, green notes and a hint of almond. In the middle phase, rose and jasmine play a big role in turning Knize Two into a soapy-floral fragrance that's still quite interesting, but maybe a little too mannered. In the drydown, I still get a lot of alternating jasmine and rose. It's as if they were jumping in and out of synch on a dry woody base.
Overall Knize Two is a nice composition and a good alternative to the huge amount of fresh "non-fragrances" available on the market. It has great longevity and good sillage, but most of all it has the special retrò-feel that makes it quite an unique fragrance. Lovers of Caraceni 1913 should definitely give this a try...
Knize Sec
Launched in 1985,Sec has a drastically dry citrus/frankincense/sage opening, enriched in the drydown by amber, shy flowery accords and a remarkable coriander note with hints of leather. Sort of like a dried to the bone Knize Ten. Not very much to add as this composition is quite simple and linear, yet incredibly satisfying. Maybe not one of the most distinctive perfumes around, but If you're into straight-forward, austere frankincense fragrances you'll probably dig this. I do.
Knize Forest
Launched in 1993. This, together with Knize Ten, is the most interesting composition in the Knize's range. A green fougère that in many apsects recalls the more popular Green Irish Tweed (expecially during the inital phase). A pine and herbal opening (mainly rosemary and sage) with hints of mint that evolves into an oakmoss and sandalwood drydown. Overall Knize Forest is airy and salubrious and will make the many coneheads out there very happy. Long lasting, refined, distinctive and a lot cheaper than GIT.
Launched in 1955. Among the Knizes this is definitely my least favorite. A well mannered version of Knize Two with emphasis on the florals to obtain a more feminine result. Extremely classic and old-fashioned, but a bit stereotyped and outdated.
Nice reviews alfarom. I'm a different type of leather guy and am aware of the devotees that Knize has.
ReplyDeleteIt's nice to see passion about a particular house.
Yep, I realized it just right after I posted my article. What's your type of leather?
ReplyDeleteThanks so much for this post, alfarom. I've heard so much about this house but somehow never tried any of their perfumes!
ReplyDeleteThanks for the posts, tough it's a pity you didn't get to Belle Epoque, I've passed my sample on to my sister, but my memories of it were that it was as good a modern feminine as I could remember.
ReplyDelete@dacha: It's actually very weird how Belle Epoque keeps on being completely unavailable over here...
ReplyDeleteIt's very odd indeed, in Australia Knize is completely unavailable, so I have to purchase from Germany and I'm amazed that First In Fragrance doesn't Belle Epoque, my sample had to come from Les Senteurs. Mind you there's a lot we can't get over here, MPG for example.
ReplyDeleteThere are discount etailers but no niche spcialists that can provide anything within cooee of Overseas prices for eg Keiko Mecheries Cuir Cordoba, in Melbourne, $225 from Lucky Scent $115.
There's a hole in the market that someone with some cash and drive can easily fill.