Funny how we can come full circle with certain fragrances. There was a time when I found Villoresi's Sandalo much too harsh and downright crude for my taste.
My palette has broadened over the years from simply staying active in the hobby. I still equate Villoresi as being the Frank Zappa of perfumery. No, I don't mean buffoonery, but rather an "in your face" and a take-it-or-leave-it approach. His creations always seem to be rugged, but that's one mans opinion.
Sandalo has a "not quite finished" air about it. Lorenzo has chosen not to cover the flaws in sandalwood and has it stand completely naked before the world.
Naturally, there are other players in the works in this fragrance, but the sandalwood is deliberately left to stand or fall on its own merits. If those of you considering sampling Sandalo necessarily don't harbor much love for sandal, rosewood or some lavender, then be advised that you will find this NOT to your liking. I love sandalwood, but for years, I only cared for creamy and assisted renditions of the note. Case in point is how niche houses continue to augment patchouli with amber and vanilla. It's become an industry recipe of sorts.
Villoresi's Sandalo opens with sandalwood , lavender and petitgrain as they ride upon a small wave of citrus. The citrus dissipates quickly to reveal facets of rosewood within minutes of application. The rosewood ( to me ) is more dominant than anything and jostles with the sandalwood for the entire ride.
I have another obscure sandalwood that is very similar to me once the opening is finished. It's called "Sandalo" as well and was released by ERBE Profumi. I have no info as to year or accords and I admit to researching it unsuccessfully.
There's numerous heavy hitters listed in Sandalo such as Labdanum, Vetiver, Neroli, Rose, Moss, Musk and Opoponax, but they pale in comparison to the sandal and rosewood. They remind me of guests invited to a party and then promptly ignored. In the extended drydown, some of them rear their heads, but they are cautious and quiet about it.
It's all good however. Villoresi Sandalo is one of the benchmark sandalwoods and years later I can say rightly so. Big thumbs up for Lorenzo's macho woody.
Thanks for doing a review of this one. This is the only review I've read that answers all the questions I've had about this frag. I too love sandalwood, but I prefer the drier, sharper treatments of it (though I love both), so I'm definitely going to give this a whirl, maybe even a blind buy. Villoresi's patchouli frag is rugged too, and one of my favorite patchoulis.
ReplyDeleteEnjoyed this review! Thanks! I think you've hit on exactly why some people love Villoresi frags and some people hate them. Nice analysis!
ReplyDelete"Sandalo has a "not quite finished" air about it. Lorenzo has chosen not to cover the flaws in sandalwood and has it stand completely naked before the world."
ReplyDeleteIts this exact description that renders Lorenzo's work so appealing to me.
Ive always felt that most Sandalwood perfumesnin the recent market weremrestrained, constrained, watered down and made clinical. Its Sandalo that ignited my love for sandalwood and promoted to seek out others. Another unrestrained sandalwoodn is Santal Noble.