Ambre Topkapi by Parfums MDCI

Bergamot, Grapefruit, Pineapple, Melon, Cinnamon, Cardamom, Nutmeg, Ginger, Basil, Thyme, Lavender, Oakmoss, Vetiver, Sandalwood, Rosewood, Leather, Darjeeling tea, Amber, Musk, Vanilla, Jasmin, Violet.

Looking at this list of impressive notes, I was enticed to purchase a sample mainly because I erroneously assumed Topkapi would be amber dominant. The other notes intrigued me as well and at the worst, this Pierre Bourdon creation would be intriguing.

My initial thought after applying Ambre Topkapi was that it was very pleasant. I also wasn't sure what to make of it since it reminded me of a well executed designer fragrance. It reminds me of more than one and the thought of Davidoff and Calvin Klein mixed together sprang to mind. That in itself is not a bad thing. What's a bit troubling is the price point.

The opening of Ambre Topkapi is a watery and metallic citrus that has spice woven throughout. It's a very pleasant and comfortable accord that leans fresh. It maintains a light feel while exhibiting a fairly substantial presence.

Once the heart arrives, Ambre Topkapi seems to lose steam. It still has the metallic aspect with citrus and spice, but it's not nearly as focused as it was. It becomes a bit lackluster at this stage. I guess I expected this to evolve into a scent with more gravity. The encouraging top accord had me thinking that it would begin light and cool, then morph into a warm and heavy oriental.

Ambre Topkapi never does. From the heart onward, it continues to dissipate and the tea quality ( of all things ) is what comes to the fore. By this stage, I am almost scratching my head in wonder at the lack of presence from the base accord notables. I simply am not experiencing them like I should.

The base and drydown, for what it's worth, is a disappointing array of muted topnotes and subtle tea. The heavy hitters of leather, wood, van-amber and musk seem to be AWOL. Perhaps this scent simply doesn't not "come to life" on my skin and would work better on another's. I don't have an answer and am even more perplexed at the price.

The sillage for Ambre Topkapi is average and the scent does possess a very nice opening accord. Longevity is below average however and the only thing I feel comfortable recommending is a sample wear. A big neutral rating from Aromi for Ambre Topkapi and its missing amber.