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Carthusia 1681

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Tangerine, Bergamot, Coriander, Thyme, Rosemary, Iris, Neroli, Lavender, Petitgrain, Black Pepper, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Frankincense, Ambergris, Vanilla, Musk.

Marketed as masculine, this may be the only thing I find off the mark concerning 1681. The opening is just different enough to be interesting and the onset of what I can only describe as a sweet and  fatty texture with a wax overtone is intriguing.

The citric top is accented with herbal and spice tones. I won't go as far as to say it's aromatic, but there is hints of it along with shades of wood and lavender. It's an enjoyable opening accord and the ambergris takes only a few minutes to insert itself into the progression. This gives 1681 a rather unique smell which I find myself sniffing continually during the wearings.

After wearing 1681 a few times, I notice the incense creeping into the progression after about 5 minutes. The top, heart and base have their own qualities and signal the changes. The heart introduces the incense and this merges with the ongoing citrus and spice. The iris seems to be blunted on me, but perhaps on others it would come to fruition a bit better. The herbal shadow is still cast and all the above remain until well into the base accord.

I must say that the amber is exceptional in 1681. It may just be that it's tuned perfectly for me, but by this stage of the wearing, it's still semi sweet and has retained just a hint of that fatty texture I mentioned. I no loner smell the "waxy" tone and in spite of finding it interesting, I do not miss it.

The extended drydown of 1681 seals the deal for me. It's slightly woody with a terrific van-amber and musk. The incense note by now is very feint, but still contributing just enough to enhance the extremely comfortable finish.

Sillage is good and longevity is very acceptable on my skin. It's good enough for me to seriously entertain thoughts of making 1681 my next purchase. Big thumbs up from Aromi for this very unique ambery oriental. There's no doubt that either gender can wear this.


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