Costes by Costes

Coriander, White Pepper, Laurel, Incense, Musk, Cardamom, Rose, Wood.

Never having smelled either Costes or Costes 2, I ordered both and it sounded reasonable to me that I begin with the first release. What I noticed immediately was the medicinal camphor. I originally thought I was smelling a combination of clove and cinnamon. Even after multiple wearings, Costes gives me references of those two notes. It's after the first few minutes that my olfactory illusion gives way to the slightly spicy and aromatic compilation of notes. It's here when I can identify a leafy quality as well. The opening accord of Costes is bracing and a bit eye opening.

It takes about 10 minutes for Costes to relax and permit a very soft incense note to bleed through. Spice and aromatics are still front and center, but no where near as rowdy as it was during the initial application. A smooth, balsamic aspect emerges and carries with it an overall spiciness from not only pepper, but from other notes as well. The volume has turned down noticeably by this stage and the heart transition is more comfortable than the topnotes. A little camphor, balsam, spice and a dash of incense is what remains of a tumultuous beginning.

Even before the base and drydown, it's evident that Costes can be worn by either gender with little or no effort. The listed rose, musk and wood however are on the anemic side ( at least on my skin ) and has left me wanting. It places the base in an underwhelming light and it's not until the extended drydown that musk and what appears to be sandalwood contribute. By this time, the musky wood is only a skin scent and it makes me wish they were tuned with a higher volume.

As much as I wished for the rose note to emerge, it never seems to materialize on my skin. Costes starts out very energetic, then morphs into a very relaxed state, only to finish by what amounts to be sleepwalking. It's like it got tired too quickly and the ride is over before you were ready for it to be.

Sillage is good at the start, then calms down. Longevity is mediocre ( about 3-4 hours ) with a lackluster base and drydown. Costes is one of those wearings that has left me indifferent since it brings nothing unique to the table and suffers from longevity issues. A neutral rating from Aromi and the recommendation of a sample wear for those still interested. Perhaps Costes will move you more than it did me.