Skip to main content

Eau des Iles by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier

Myrrh, Tarragon, Coffee Beans, Incense, Ylang Ylang, Labdanum, Patchouli, Vetiver, Galbanum.

Simply by looking at the listed notes, would you think this a strange brew? You'd be correct in assuming such. I almost laughed at the opening. Not because it's horrendous, but because it's truly eclectic. Not since the original Ted Lapidus ( 1978 ) have I been encapsulated in a shroud of smoke such as this. The difference here is that Eau des Iles pilfers you with a strange coffee haze that's slightly burnt and accented with an undercurrent of myrrh and incense. I like it more than I don't like it........but that aside, I tip my cap to Mr. Laporte for his prodigious output in the year 1988. Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier took numerous chances and that bravado is why enthusiasts have respect for this house.

After 10 minutes or so, the smoke dissipates noticeably and signals the arrival of patchouli and vetiver. This duo was actually churning underneath from the onset, but materialize once the haziness clears from the top accord. I can also detect tarragon now since it was apparently overtaken in the cacophony.

From the heart to the base, Eau des Iles settles down rather nicely and becomes much more comfortable. The tarragon and galbanum contribute just enough sweet and green to counter the slightly bitter coffee mist that is still ongoing.

Once the drydown commences, Eau des Iles has evolved into a soothing masculine with earthy tones, hints of green and a subtle, dry amber. The finish is extremely different from the beginning on my skin and the intro is something you may have to become accustomed to. It's off the beaten path and not something I find would be conducive to the feminine  persuasion. That's simply my opinion, so please don't let that dissuade you from trying it. It may somehow work for you.

Sillage is good and longevity is about 4 hours before it turns into a skin scent. This is definitely a try before you buy, but I have to give Eau des Iles a thumbs up just for originality if nothing else.




Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Black Suede by Avon

Nutmeg, Clove, Amber, Musk, Moss, Wood Notes. Yes.........I am reviewing one of the Rodney Dangerfield's of fragrance. Black Suede has been gracing medicine cabinets, for better or worse, since 1980 my friends. If you're expecting me to inform you ( like others may have already ) that Black Suede is a nasty scrubber, you will be disappointed. On the other hand, if you're expecting a glowing review claiming it's a diamond in the rough, you won't hear that from me either. I will say though that Black Suede doesn't deserve the hate it's received and most of that is due to snobbery aimed at Avon products in general. I kid you not when I state that a close relative to this fragrance is Cacharel Pour L'Homme. The array of spice in both ensure comparison, but the "smoother" of the two is Black Suede due to its implementation of Amber. While wearing Black Suede, one can detect a hint of "drugstore". That quality doesn't manife...

Chanel copying Guerlain. Why?

                      Last month, I had the pleasure of trying Comète by Chanel, the latest addition to their prestigious Les Exclusifs line. This fragrance follows the release of Le Lion in 2020, another standout in the same collection. Like Le Lion , Comète is a beautiful perfume that captures the essence of Chanel’s refined elegance. However, both fragrances bear a striking resemblance to classic creations by Guerlain, leading me to ponder the direction Chanel is taking. Chanel has a great fragrance history. Not as hallowed and old as Guerlain but for past three decades it has far outshone Guerlain. In my view, no other perfume house has come close to Chanel’s excellence in this century. This makes their recent approach of echoing Guerlain classics somewhat perplexing. Have they run out of fresh ideas? Is Roger Dove at the helm of their fragrance division, or have they perhaps...

La Chasse Aux Papillons Extreme by L'Artisan Parfumeur

I read many reviews before or after I do my own and I seem to be at complete odds with the house of L'Artisan. I have previously said on basenotes that for me, L'Artisan Parfumeur is the most over-rated house I have come across. La Chasse Aux Papillons Extreme does nothing to sway that opinion. Yet another linear, floral dominant scent that does nothing to stir me up or inspire me in any way. This house has "pleasant" nailed down to an art form......but damn...can't we go beyond that? The only attempt at polarization so far has been Dzongkha ....and I found it a jumbled mess. At these prices, move me, anger me, hate me.......but please don't bore me. Extreme in a nutshell is a toned down tuberose with assorted "blossom" thrown in the mix. Is it bad? No, it's an acceptable floral scent that's very timid and just lays on my skin smelling like....well....a toned down version of tuberose with blossom this or that added to it. I'm almost a...