Gris Clair by Serge Lutens

Lavender, Amber, Tonka Bean, Iris, Wood, Incense.

It's always amusing reading reviews of The Serge's creations. His appeal is apparently enough to warrant a prodigious output, yet the opinions cover the entire spectrum.

Why should Gris Clair be any different? The "house feel" is evident in the opening and I get this somewhat weird chewing gum-lavender shaving cream vibe. It is extremely short lived and quickly transitions to a more conventional lavender. There's also a grainy quality assimilated with the dominant lavender note. This could be attributed to some resin and woodiness, but with The Serge, who's to say for certain? One thing is for sure and that is that Gris Clair isn't your run of the mill lavender frag.

The next transition exposes Gris Clair as the lavender woody it really is. A smokiness gradually becomes more pronounced and reveals a charring that isn't from a recent event. It's akin to something burned in the past and you are smelling the remnants.

There's a lack of warmth in Gris Clair. I feel as though I'm inside a stone cavern that's dry, stark and littered with campfire debris from years ago. Lavender is strewn about and these aromas are all mingling with the body talc I happen to be wearing. Strange but good and definitely in keeping with the Lutens mystique.

The drydown of Gris Clair is where the money is. The presence has lowered enough to state that it is now a close fragrance. The dissipating lavender, resins, smoky woods and subtle powder make for some eclectic bedfellows. I have to say I like it since I seem to be constantly sniffing during each wearing.

Sillage is good at the start and then morphs into a personal space scent. The longevity however is quite good even though the volume is low. Gris Clair leans more masculine than shared on me, but not so much that women would be disinterested. Thumbs up for Gris Clair and The Serge's Lavender Woody.

Comments

Black Suede by Avon

Nutmeg, Clove, Amber, Musk, Moss, Wood Notes. Yes.........I am reviewing one of the Rodney Dangerfield's of fragrance. Black Suede has been gracing medicine cabinets, for better or worse, since 1980 my friends. If you're expecting me to inform you ( like others may have already ) that Black Suede is a nasty scrubber, you will be disappointed. On the other hand, if you're expecting a glowing review claiming it's a diamond in the rough, you won't hear that from me either. I will say though that Black Suede doesn't deserve the hate it's received and most of that is due to snobbery aimed at Avon products in general. I kid you not when I state that a close relative to this fragrance is Cacharel Pour L'Homme. The array of spice in both ensure comparison, but the "smoother" of the two is Black Suede due to its implementation of Amber. While wearing Black Suede, one can detect a hint of "drugstore". That quality doesn't manife...

Chanel copying Guerlain. Why?

Last month, I had the pleasure of trying Comète by Chanel, the latest addition to their prestigious Les Exclusifs line. This fragrance follows the release of Le Lion in 2020, another standout in the same collection. Like Le Lion , Comète is a beautiful perfume that captures the essence of Chanel’s refined elegance. However, both fragrances bear a striking resemblance to classic creations by Guerlain, leading me to ponder the direction Chanel is taking. Chanel has a great fragrance history. Not as hallowed and old as Guerlain but for past three decades it has far outshone Guerlain. In my view, no other perfume house has come close to Chanel’s excellence in this century. This makes their recent approach of echoing Guerlain classics somewhat perplexing. Have they run out of fresh ideas? Is Roger Dove at the helm of their fragrance division, or have they perhaps...

Teatro Alla Scala - Krizia

I tried Comete by Chanel today and wanted to write about how Chanel is going by the way of Roger Dove - copying old masterpieces. I did not know where to post that and then I realized I have been neglecting this blog. When I logged in I saw an unfinished post I wrote a year ago about Teatro Alla Scala by Krizia. Teatro is the best full bodied floral - better than any Chanel or Patou. Even better than Gucci L'Arte. A brief background: Teatro Alla Scala is an Opera theatre in Milan. The bottle's design is an homage to the theatre and the perfume an homage to its sophisticated patrons. I wanted to write a symphony for it. Maybe some day. For now here are few notes I wrote comparing EDT vs EDP. And if you don't have Teatro, your wardrobe is incomplete Rose, Jasmine, Tuberose. Jammy berries (more in EDP) . Honey note listed is probably the jammy part Vetiver & moss - more in EDT Rose and carnation is more than jasmine and that is what separates it from other florals like J...

Il Mondo di Odore

Search This Blog