Santa Maria Novella Sandalo

As a dyed-in-the-wool sandalwood fan, it's only natural that I sample this polarizing Novella release. I say that because of opinions already in circulation.

Upon wearing Sandalo a few times, I can liken it to being a distant cousin of Villoresi due to its structure and rough nature. They smell different overall, but share commonalities. The minimalist approach appeals to a certain segment when it comes to sandalwood. I happen to prefer softer, creamier renditions. I do however like Villoresi's Sandalo, so there are exceptions.

Santa Maria Novella's version is on the harsh end of the spectrum the first, few minutes. There's a medicinal quality at work here and I'll stop short of saying that there's a eucalyptus ingredient. It gives me the impression of verbena or a derivative. There's hints of slightly bitter herb and citrus along with the medicinal aspect and all unfold during the opening accord. It's quite the bracing salutation.

Even after 10 minutes, the simplicity of Sandalo dictates that the top notes carry over into the heart and simply lower the volume and projection. This it does, decreasing the presence and allowing the entry of the sandalwood note to merge with the opening. The wood becomes noticeable at this stage and continues its evolution of masculinity. I have read ( whether erroneously or not ) that Sandalo was targeted at women. If this is so, then I am dumbfounded. That aside, this particular rendition of sandalwood is one I find rather mediocre. It could simply be the tuning of it and its interaction with the other notes, but I remain somewhat unimpressed.

After 20 minutes and beyond, the harsh aspects of Sandalo have been tempered and what remains is a medicinal and wispy herb upheld by sandalwood that hasn't quite dried out and matured. There's a green, unripe quality here that's subtle, but present nonetheless. If anything, it is interesting, but probably not for everyone.

The gist of Santa Maria Novella's Sandalo  ( to me ) is a barbershop woody that would perform well as a splash to be applied immediately after shaving. It's austere and sans any sweetness or comfort factor. I can't imagine myself desiring to wear this as a conventional fragrance, but can picture it as an after shave and one that would assuredly perk your facial skin right up.

A neutral rating from Aromi for SMN Sandalo and its stern rendition of sandalwood.