Skip to main content

Santa Maria Novella Sandalo

As a dyed-in-the-wool sandalwood fan, it's only natural that I sample this polarizing Novella release. I say that because of opinions already in circulation.

Upon wearing Sandalo a few times, I can liken it to being a distant cousin of Villoresi due to its structure and rough nature. They smell different overall, but share commonalities. The minimalist approach appeals to a certain segment when it comes to sandalwood. I happen to prefer softer, creamier renditions. I do however like Villoresi's Sandalo, so there are exceptions.

Santa Maria Novella's version is on the harsh end of the spectrum the first, few minutes. There's a medicinal quality at work here and I'll stop short of saying that there's a eucalyptus ingredient. It gives me the impression of verbena or a derivative. There's hints of slightly bitter herb and citrus along with the medicinal aspect and all unfold during the opening accord. It's quite the bracing salutation.

Even after 10 minutes, the simplicity of Sandalo dictates that the top notes carry over into the heart and simply lower the volume and projection. This it does, decreasing the presence and allowing the entry of the sandalwood note to merge with the opening. The wood becomes noticeable at this stage and continues its evolution of masculinity. I have read ( whether erroneously or not ) that Sandalo was targeted at women. If this is so, then I am dumbfounded. That aside, this particular rendition of sandalwood is one I find rather mediocre. It could simply be the tuning of it and its interaction with the other notes, but I remain somewhat unimpressed.

After 20 minutes and beyond, the harsh aspects of Sandalo have been tempered and what remains is a medicinal and wispy herb upheld by sandalwood that hasn't quite dried out and matured. There's a green, unripe quality here that's subtle, but present nonetheless. If anything, it is interesting, but probably not for everyone.

The gist of Santa Maria Novella's Sandalo  ( to me ) is a barbershop woody that would perform well as a splash to be applied immediately after shaving. It's austere and sans any sweetness or comfort factor. I can't imagine myself desiring to wear this as a conventional fragrance, but can picture it as an after shave and one that would assuredly perk your facial skin right up.

A neutral rating from Aromi for SMN Sandalo and its stern rendition of sandalwood.


Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Black Suede by Avon

Nutmeg, Clove, Amber, Musk, Moss, Wood Notes. Yes.........I am reviewing one of the Rodney Dangerfield's of fragrance. Black Suede has been gracing medicine cabinets, for better or worse, since 1980 my friends. If you're expecting me to inform you ( like others may have already ) that Black Suede is a nasty scrubber, you will be disappointed. On the other hand, if you're expecting a glowing review claiming it's a diamond in the rough, you won't hear that from me either. I will say though that Black Suede doesn't deserve the hate it's received and most of that is due to snobbery aimed at Avon products in general. I kid you not when I state that a close relative to this fragrance is Cacharel Pour L'Homme. The array of spice in both ensure comparison, but the "smoother" of the two is Black Suede due to its implementation of Amber. While wearing Black Suede, one can detect a hint of "drugstore". That quality doesn't manife...

Chanel copying Guerlain. Why?

                      Last month, I had the pleasure of trying Comète by Chanel, the latest addition to their prestigious Les Exclusifs line. This fragrance follows the release of Le Lion in 2020, another standout in the same collection. Like Le Lion , Comète is a beautiful perfume that captures the essence of Chanel’s refined elegance. However, both fragrances bear a striking resemblance to classic creations by Guerlain, leading me to ponder the direction Chanel is taking. Chanel has a great fragrance history. Not as hallowed and old as Guerlain but for past three decades it has far outshone Guerlain. In my view, no other perfume house has come close to Chanel’s excellence in this century. This makes their recent approach of echoing Guerlain classics somewhat perplexing. Have they run out of fresh ideas? Is Roger Dove at the helm of their fragrance division, or have they perhaps...

Teatro Alla Scala - Krizia

I tried Comete by Chanel today and wanted to write about how Chanel is going by the way of Roger Dove - copying old masterpieces. I did not know where to post that and then I realized I have been neglecting this blog. When I logged in I saw an unfinished post I wrote a year ago about Teatro Alla Scala by Krizia. Teatro is the best full bodied floral - better than any Chanel or Patou. Even better than Gucci L'Arte.  A brief background: Teatro Alla Scala is an Opera theatre in Milan. The bottle's design is an homage to the theatre and the perfume an homage to its sophisticated patrons. I wanted to write a symphony for it. Maybe some day. For now here are few notes I wrote comparing EDT vs EDP.  And if you don't have Teatro, your wardrobe is incomplete Rose, Jasmine, Tuberose. Jammy berries (more in EDP) . Honey note listed is probably the jammy part Vetiver & moss - more in EDT Rose and carnation is more than jasmine and that is what separates it from other florals like J...