Il Mondo di Odore

Calabrian Bergamot, Citrus fruits, Petitgrain. Magnolia, Orange Blossom. Iris, Fig. If an economical and realistic citric fragrance is on your to-buy list for the warmer months, then it would behoove you to give Tuscan Soul a sample wear. 4.2 ounce bottles are going for the price of 4 samples from LuckyScent. This a pretty good deal since this is a near perfect summer citrus for either gender. It wears close, but that's what makes it perfect for hot weather or if you simply want to knock around and smell extremely fresh and pleasant without concern for offending the sensitivities of others. Tuscan Soul is joyously uncomplicated and may be one of the better simplistic scents you will stumble across. The opening is a combination of elements that give me the impression of fresh orange and lemon. The accord is soft and lucid, with room to breathe and yet surprisingly full smelling. It possesses a large personality without the throw normally accompanying a substantial openin...

Freesia, May Rose, Pink Pepper. Damask Rose, Raspberry, Violet, Myrrh. Amber, Musk, Iris, Opoponax. This particular sample was sent to me ( along with a boatload of others ) courtesy of my good friend and co-blogger sherapop. In spite of La Mome leaning very feminine, I found it a very nice scent after numerous wearings. I'd also like to take the time to thank sherapop for her generosity and for her contributions, not only here, but on the Parfumo site as well. The most interesting thing I found once I looked at the accords was the version of Opoponax utilized here. It comes into play within 5 minutes or so and steers La Mome into Oriental territory. Subtly balsamic and evolving an incremental vanilla aroma, it transforms this fragrance into a floriental. The opening is a very pleasant and velvety mixture of rose, an interpretation of sweet fruit and hints of spice. To me, the fruit note gives the suggestion of sherbert, but I like it ! You, of course, may interpret the...

Labdanum, Cedar, Styrax, Galbanum, Sandalwood, Carnation, Hay, Black Pepper, Frankincense, Cinnamon, Geranium, Cardamom, Nutmeg, Rose, Honey, Clove, Coriander. 1994 found Mark Buxton releasing the initial Comme des Garcons creation. I continue to come back to this particular scent in the hope of finally accepting it. I suppose the clove rendition is tuned too prominently for my tastes. I will say that, in spite of being dominant, the clove note "flows" and retains a sense of smoothness. It's not a note I usually associate with being supple, but Buxton has managed to grind away the rough edges without removing any medicinal and spicy qualities. I suppose some thought and effort was afforded this fragrance since it was slotted to represent a future line that was soon to appear. My problem with wearing Comme des Garcons EDP is that the clove note overwhelms everything else implemented in the accords. There's other things at work that I detect, but they're e...

Bergamot, Lavender, Muguet, Orange Blossom, Moroccan Rose, Cedar, Cistus, Oakmoss, Amber, Vanilla, Tonka Bean. I've held off for a very long time posting a review on Bogart Pour Homme. The reason being is that I didn't care for it at all and so many others have extolled the virtues of this masculine. After wearing it again ( and hopefully for the last time ), I like it even less than before. I can understand economical fragrances and the allure they have. We all would love nothing better than to find a bargain that has projection, longevity and smells great. Bogart Pour Homme possesses two of those qualities, but lacks the most important for me. Bogart Pour Homme is basically too much of a good thing and unbalanced. Like a bodybuilder seeking symmetry, the end result is sometimes too much mass. This house inherently provides sillage and longevity for great prices. It's one of the things I admire about Bogart. I just don't like this one as I find it a bit crass...

Green Note, Fruit Note, Jasmine, Osmanthus, Carnation, Lily, Muscs, Almond, Wood, Honey. After wearing this a few times, I've concluded that Nuit de Cellophane smells pleasant, but it opens like a hair care product. I can't put my finger on it exactly, but I'm certain I've used a shampoo that is strikingly similar. I'm not one to use the same hair cleanser repeatedly, but I remember the aroma it left after rinsing and Nuit de Cellophane nails it. I didn't bring that up to denigrate the fragrance. This is a clean floral woody, but I cannot help the association with shampoo. I wish I could remember which one it was. Regardless, Nuit de Cellophane resembles it in the opening and heart accords before morphing just enough to separate itself from that comparison. There are worse things ( for sure ) than smelling like you just finished washing your follicles for a short while. Nuit de Cellophane begins to transition away from this after about 15 minutes. Th...

Wormwood, Basil, Bergamot, Juniperberry, Lemon. Carnation, Cinnamon, Clary Sage, Fern, Fir, Geranium, Jasmine, Muguet, Rose. Benzoin, Castoreum, Cedar, Leather, Moss, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Tonka, Vetiver. The venerable Pancaldi by Honorah. This fragrance is one of the better kept secrets circa 1989. It also has amazing similarities to Revillon's French Line. Even now, Pancaldi affords me one of the most enjoyable openings in my wardrobe. It's relationship to French Line is evident in the top and heart accords, then both go to the finish line taking different paths. I like French Line, but Pancaldi is the superior of the two throughout. Pancaldi opens with what may be the smoothest basil oriented accord you will ever smell. The opening leans green and spicy sans anything jagged in its makeup. The citric spice accented with Juniper is perfection. Most will say "Pancaldi" ??? I've never heard of it. Regardless, Pancaldi for Men came in Haute Concentr...

Peach, Peiu Flower, Blackcurrants, Green Apples. Jasmine, Sandalwood. Vanilla, Musk, Cedar. I noticed that Burberry ( circa 1995 ) doesn't have the presence of your normal Eau de Parfums. It has substance, but it's sheer and lightly weighted. On one hand, that's a drawback for some and for others it's a come up since this works so well in warm to hot temperatures. I'm inclined to think that, due to the note choices, this was made for summer and I have to say I like it. This is an ordinary fragrance, yet extremely versatile and comfortable. That counts for something in my book. The opening of Burberry is a fruit and floral combination with spicy wood atop a bed of vanilla. The fruit is reminiscent of something unripe and there's a nice, green stem quality in the mix. The spice is moderately low key and blends well with the greenish fruit accord. The "wood" is more of a suggestion than literal and in keeping with the overall tone of the fragran...

Orange Blossom, Orris, Jasmine, Cedarwood. It seems that certain renditions of a particular note  develop on my skin emulating a rubber aspect. It also may have that latex aroma I'm not exactly fond of. It appears to be one of my quirks, but I simply chalk it up to how a scent is tuned and call it good. Fleur de Louis is actually a pleasant enough  floral with not much wood or anything else. It doesn't work as well on me as I assume it would on others. Still, it's good in its own way because I believe this would work nicely on the feminine persuasion who desire a scent that doesn't attract much attention.. I like Orange Blossom in almost everything I've smelled it in, but I can't say I experience it in Fleur de Louis. It's tuned too low for me to realize it and most of the fragrance is floral and earth on my skin. It takes Jasmine quite awhile to creep into the accord, but it too is very subtle and a dry, earthy floral note dominates the first 30...

Mango, Lychee, Blackcurrant, Cardamom, Cumin, Cistus, Rose, Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang, Tuberose, Plumeria, Gardenia, Patchouli, Tobacco, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Vanilla. Bertrand Duchaufour has come up with a very interesting scent in Bombay Bling. The woody tobacco note is implemented as a foundation and I detect it upon initial application. In essence, this is a floral-tobacco-woody and rather versatile as well. The emphasis seems to be put on the tobacco and both genders are welcome to don this extremely comfortable creation. Bombay Bling opens with a sweet and deep green, floral aroma. It is expansive and has a spicy edge to it. To me, I smell Lychee out front with the rest of the opening notes offering a substantial contribution of balsam and herbal tones along with that undercurrent of spice. It's not fruity, floral or herbal but a concerted effort resulting in a fully formed and substantial accord. Bombay Bling settles down in 5 minutes with a  tobacco note merging with ...

Cardamom, Coriander, Ambrette, Carrot, Black Pepper, Elemi, Turkish Rose Oil, Jasmine, Orris, Hawthorn, Almond Milk, Leather, Sandalwood, Amber, Patchouli, Oudh Palao, Benzoin, Vanilla, Tonka Bean. Mohur opens with a very manifold accord consisting of a light camphor, balsam and herbal tones accented with a hint of spice. The spice is subtle, peppery and no sooner it appears, there's a floral component just as soft on its heels. After wearing Mohur a few times, what's most noticeable to me is the balancing act of detectable notes. I smell most of what is listed, yet every emergence is on the delicate side with an equal volume for all. The jasmine and rose combo is extremely smooth, setting the stage for the heart accord. The pepper is carried over from the opening and adds a nice contrast to the floral notes. After 15 minutes or so, a gentle leather and the suggestion of oud merge into the accord. I have to say that I like this implementation of "oud" immens...

Dark and Light Tunisian Amber, Vanilla, Patchouli. This particular fragrance pushes the WOW factor button in me. Marketed as shared, Black Amber leans more feminine due to the powdery quality in this rendition of amber and once merged with vanilla, it seems destined for the feminine arena. In spite of that and it also being fairly linear, Black Amber is so substantial that there's no doubt I would wear this in the cold months or use it as a base. Sillage and longevity is of absolutely no concern here. This is some concentrated juice and truly a little goes a long way. Black Amber opens with a dense amber accord that possesses a halo of powder. The amber is sweet, but not overtly so. There's also resin in the mix, but it stays close to the skin while the powdery amber soaks up the spotlight. During what would normally be the heart accord, a patchouli begins to manifest itself in increments. At first, it adorns itself with woodiness and by the base and drydown, it unv...

Red Plum, Saffron, Orange Peel. Patchouli, Orris Root, Rose, Agarwood. Vetiver, Musk, White Honey. There seems to be quite a bit of displeasure  regarding the lack of legitimate oud in this Bond release. What's amusing is that most complaining about it are westerners like myself and wouldn't know the genuine article if someone stuck it under their nose. Am I some type of oud expert? Hell no. My perception of oud is what I've been exposed to the last few years and that seems to be a combination of saffron and rose with a bit of agarwood. Some have no agar at all and the overall aroma is just as similar. The oud exposure is only a recent phenomenon here in the States and I have no inkling to pursue "oud expertise". What I'll try and accomplish is an honest summary of what I smell in this Bond creation. To start, I like this "oud" much better than say "Arabian Nights" by both Bogart and Del Pozo.  Bond has implemented an economical...

Bergamot, Bigarade, Neroli, White Tea, Mate Essence, Mimosa, Spices, Fig, Oakmoss. What makes me happy is the freedom I have to express myself within this hobby. This blog is my outlet and I need not kiss the ass of anyone since I buy everything I sample. I also do my best to be fair in the subjective experience and genuinely take no pleasure in posting bad reviews, deserving or not. I will still give my opinion if it's unfavorable and explain why. This particular house makes me somewhat uncomfortable because everything I smell from Kilian is good and none of them are worth the money unless owning a Kilian is a status symbol for you. Bamboo Harmony is no exception. As pleasantly transparent as it is, there are others as good or better, replicating something similar and costing much, much less. Bamboo Harmony opens with a well executed citrus accord. It's very enjoyable and sheer. The tea note begins to bleed through within a few minutes and once merged with the top is...

Bergamot, Clary Sage, Lavender, Petitgrain, Rosemary. Carnation, Cedar, Cinnamon, Patchouli, Rose. Amber, Labdanum, Leather, Moss, Musk, Myrrh. I have become reacquainted with Matchabelli for Men since I scored a bottle on ebay not long ago. This very nice, classic masculine is a leather woody on my skin, but fits the criteria for chypre as well. The very first thing that I notice is the implementation of cedar oil. That ingredient is distinct to me and its usage seems to be rather common in fragrances from the 1970's and 1980's. Matchabelli is from the very early 80's, if memory serves, and its overall aroma is indicative of it. I mean that in a good way however. This bargain bin masculine doesn't possess the baggage that some powerscents do from that period. This is ruggedly smooth and all rolled up into one, comfortable wearing experience. It's a personal space fragrance, yet has enough substance to cocoon the wearer in a polite, but sensual richness....

Amber Gris and Opium. Reviews and various interpretations are funny things. We all seem to glean something different from the very same ingredients. There is a particular reviewer I hold in very high regard. I thoroughly enjoy his reviews, insight, writing skills and comparisons given when I read them, yet when I try the same fragrance, I usually find that our perceptions are very different. Well then, who is right? Actually, we both are. I'm quite certain every one of us experiences fragrances in our own, unique manner. It stands to reason that some of us, who have similar tastes, must interpret what we smell in a related fashion. It also stands to reason that those who describe a fragrance very different than myself must have a different method of processing aromas and assessing the experience. Enter Fiore d'Ambra and all the diverse opinions of it. I made it a point to search for what others thought of it. Some loved it, some were indifferent and some were extremel...

As the weather grows progressively warmer in the northern hemisphere with the approach of summertime, amber aficionados may begin to grow nervous wondering whether they'll be able to find appropriate solutions: warm weather colognes and perfumes with enough amber to satisfy their needs but without suffocating themselves and those in their environs with the characteristically thick blanket of labdanum touted in wintertime precisely for its ability to heat up and expand to envelop the wearer. People appear generally to think of amber as wintertime fare, and that does seem right to me. Oriental perfumes, often featuring hard-hitting spices and darker elements anchored in amber, wear very well underneath sweaters as the body's heat causes little wafts of olfactory delight to project up and along one's neck. Fortunately for amber addicts there are some warmer weather choices. Etro AMBRA (1989) Wearing this weightless amber perfume is like walking on pillows...