Il Mondo di Odore

Bergamot, Pink Pepper, Nutmeg. Violet, Spice, Anise. Patchouli, Vetiver, Leather. A very large atomizer was given to me recently by one of my softball players. He's very partial to scent, but as a young man in his twenties, his tastes are indicative of his peer group. I completely understand why he likes what he likes and also why he doesn't care for what he deems "too mature". As he gave me the atomizer, he informed me that he thought I would like it much more than he did. It simply wasn't "fresh enough or in keeping with his other acquisitions". Naturally, I was more than happy to try it and then review it. I wouldn't have otherwise came upon it since I tend to shy away from recent designer releases. Too many are bland and uninspired, but I chalk some of that up to being exposed ( over the years ) to so many creations. I suppose the current offerings have common denominators like those from eras gone by. What puts me off most modern fragr...

Bergamot, Lilly of the Valley, Pepper. Cocoa, Coffee Beans, Glazed Sugar of Hazelnut. Patchouli, Sandalwood, Vanilla. Here we have a sweet, beverage type gourmand from the prolific house of Bond No.9 aimed at the masses. I say that since it is supposed to be "For All". Personally, I don't know about the "for all" category since that encompasses multitudes too numerous to count. It should be titled "I Love New York for 20 to 30 year old corporate ladder climbers". I can't help but think of yuppies who are single and have money to burn when smelling this scent. I never said it was an unsatisfactory scent, but I will say this isn't for everyone like its name claims. You should have a proclivity for hot and sweet caffeinated beverages in order to fully appreciate this creation. In lieu of describing transitions, allow me to say that the opening of I Love New York for All is like wearing part latte, part cappuccino and hazelnut cream tha...

Grapefruit, Juniper Berry, Ginger. Geranium, Patchouli, Leather. Sandalwood, Labdanum, Musk, Amber. It's been a while since I reviewed a fragrance that underwhelmed me as much as this. Part of the problem is the price point. I Love New York for Him is a generic mish mash that truly should be gracing the shelves of TJMAXX or, at best, our local Dillard's for designer prices. The grapefruit and ginger try too hard to lend an effervescence that falls short. It's these 2 culprits in cahoots with a garden variety musk that cheapens this fragrance. It makes me think of an unsuccessful designer that's been relegated to the bargain bins. This, along with the House of Bond releasing a slew of scents, is a recipe for mediocrity. Once I Love New York for Him has settled somewhat, it does improve enough for me to tolerate it, but I admit to not liking this scent at all. If I were to be given this free of charge, it would, more than likely, sit unused in my wardrobe cabi...

Anise, Basil, Bergamot, Lavender, Lemon. Carnation, Cedar, Geranium, Jasmine, Patchouli, Vetiver, Ylang. Vanilla, Tonka Bean, Musk, Moss, Heliotrope, Amber. Having never smelled this mid 1980's "Charles of the Ritz" creation, I recently won a bottle in perfect condition with box. The first application ensured me that even the top accord was intact. The former owner truly kept this in favorable conditions. It's assuredly a "classic" construction, but I don't feel that it's dated by any means. The combination of Carnation and Geranium with a dash of Jasmine does signal "1980's", but Carrington is elegant enough to rise above any stigmas. Carrington for Men embodies Fougere, Chypre and Oriental attributes. That said, the most noticeable aspect of Carrington ( to me ) is the floral heart of Carnation and Geranium. It is what the identity of the scent is built around and upon. It's mildly spicy and herbaceous enough to propel t...

Bergamot, Pepper, Ginger, Coriander, Patchouli, Amber, Musk. I have recently become reacquainted with Tommy Bahama for Men. It's been on the market for 7 years now and I've noticed it being sold very cheaply and ( with some sellers )  rather vigorously as of late. It seems to be a maligned fragrance and that's too bad. I reviewed this masculine a few years ago and liked it. I've concluded that I like it even more now, although I don't consider it terrific or groundbreaking by any stretch. It quietly smells very nice, extremely woody and practices good manners to boot. When I first came across it, I wrongly assumed it was aquatic due to the packaging. Tommy Bahama is a woody accented with spice and earth tones. I imagined water, the sun, citrus and I guess you can say an "unremarkable" fragrance. I got something else entirely. I won't cross the line and say that Tommy Bahama is very substantial, but it does possess enough body to be taken s...

So, you like Sandalwood dominant scents that blanket the skin in a somewhat oily fashion? If the answer is yes, then this release will fit the bill. I could find no listed accords for this particular rendition, but there are notes for "Sandalo" by the same house. I won't use them however because what transpires on my skin does not reflect the "Sandalo" accords. This is wood through and through and you had better sincerely like (at least ) the suggestion of sandalwood or you will be disappointed. Personally, I love this scent as it smells like hewn wood and is reminiscent of Erbe Sandalo and a bit like Villoresi as well. It also goes on thick and oily, but the throw is moderate. The presence is substantial, but is more a personal space fragrance after 5 minutes. Sounds like a contradiction, but the fact is that Legno di Sandalo is simple, straightforward and no frills. The sandalwood feels to be blended with cedar and I seem to detect rosewood as well. ...

Plum, Berries, Bergamot. Carnation, Gardenia, Tuberose, Vanilla. Cinnamon, Cashmeran, Musk, Sandalwood, Toffee, Vanilla. Vanilla Noir by Bath and Body Works is a fragrance that caught me off guard. I fully expected vanilla to be the premier implementation and yet Tuberose holds claim to that throne. This also wears a bit heavier than the Eau de Toilette it's listed to be. On me, it performs similar to an EDP, but just a tad less dense. I assure you that I'm not complaining as I am presently surprised at the quality, longevity and sillage Vanilla Noir possesses. I ended up with a 75ml. bottle recently and while I find that it works fairly well on me, I would enjoy smelling this fragrance on a woman even more. After wearing Vanilla Noir the past few days, the essence of this scent is Tuberose accented by Cinnamon, Musk and Vanilla. The name is somewhat misleading ( at least to me ), but the fragrance itself is very good. There's no conventional transitions and after...

In today's episode of my ongoing Jean-Claude Ell é na love fest (see Hermessences 1 , Hermessences 2 , and The Alchemy of Scent ), I consider two of the Hermessence perfumes which did not go over that well with me the first time I tried them. Since then, I have discovered the real reason why the house samples of this line contain a generous 4ml. To know the Hermessences is to love them and, as is the case with any successful relationship, that takes some time—and milliliters. The beautiful, sleek vials in which the Hermessence samples arrive are a pleasure to behold, but the truth is that the liquids inside play out much more beautifully when sprayed than when dabbed. Fortunately, a while back I ordered a supply of atomizers and have been pouring my Hermessence samples into those vessels so that I can get a full sense of the complexity of these creations. “Hand decanting,” as they say in the gray market trade, is easier said than done in this case because Hermès top...

Bergamot, Lavender, Anise, Green Tea, Leather, White Patchouli, Moss, Coffee, Cedar, Amber, Musk. Only recently did I have the opportunity to wear Legend by Michael Jordan. A co-worker who knows I'm in the hobby brought some in to work to ask me what I thought of it. After spraying some on my hand and before it even had a chance to develop, I thought it was rather interesting. I told him so and after discussing fragrances for 10 minutes or so, we parted company. It was after 30 minutes or so that I really started liking this scent. The "coffee" note realizes in the base and drydown and while not a realistic representative, it was still pleasant enough for me to come home after work and pull the trigger on a bottle. It's more confectionery on my skin than "coffee", but good nonetheless. I suppose my own personal prejudices with celebrity scents ( as a whole ) would have kept me from ever sampling Legend; let alone finding myself buying a bottle. It wa...

Aldehyde, Citrus, Sage. Jasmine, Incense, Leather, Patchouli, Woods. Castoreum Absolute, Labdanum, Moss, Musk, Vetiver. The original Ted Lapidus circa 1978. I had to take a digital pic once I received it since finding any information on this fragrance is difficult. There's something about the tacky 1970's style bottle that is endearing, but there's nothing tacky inside of it I can assure you. Ted Lapidus opens with a shimmery, citric smoke and spice. A bonfire only wished it smelled this good. Within a minute, there's so much gravity in the mix that the balance will either leave you in awe or dissuade you completely. What's truly amazing is the interplay between Leather, Castoreum, Musk and Incense. I may not be a fanatic about "smoke" in fragrance, but I admit to enjoying a well implemented version of it. Ted Lapidus has the best rendition I have ever smelled. Mimicry is a form of flattery I suppose and others attempted to duplicate this a few ...

HERMESSENCE ROSE IKEBANA (2004) Each time that I don Hermessence Rose Ikebana I am reminded of The Different Company Rose Poivrée (2001), which in some ways is very odd because I do not like that perfume at all. Yesterday I decided to dig out my nearly full sample cube of Rose Poivrée just to refresh my memory about why I retain such a negative image of that perfume in my mind. It can all be summed up in one word: cumin . That's what I smell, whether it's in the composition or not, and it completely overpowers the rose, reminding me more of Alexander McQueen Kingdom than any rose perfume I've ever met. Until yesterday, I did not realize—or had forgotten—that Elléna also composed Rose Poivrée , but now it at least makes sense why I am reminded of it every time I don Rose Ikebana . I would describe Rose Ikebana as a refined, finished version of Rose Poivrée , with about a tenth of the spices, and more fruit added for sweetness and vibrancy. Whereas Rose Poi...

Bergamot, Tea, Ginger, Cinnamon, Woods, Patchouli, Honey, Pepper, Dark Cocoa, Amber. What I've found extremely interesting ( and enjoyable ) about the opening of Five O'Clock Au Gingembre is that everything but the cocoa and amber come rushing out of the bottle on the initial blast. The citrus, spice and earth tones are readily apparent, fairly substantial and display clarity.. There's a suggestion of wood which I presume is coming from the combination of patchouli and amber, but I could be remiss. The spicy ginger and soft tea note are centered  during the initial stages and the accent provided by a dark rendition of cinnamon is a nice touch. There's a semi sweet quality with resin in there as well and as the scent progresses, the resin becomes a bit more noticeable. I suppose this is the result of amber working it's way into the heart accord and within 10 minutes, all obvious notes have merged to form a personality. I imagine that some people feel this i...