Wednesday, July 25, 2012
Jil Sander No.4
Violet, Jasmine, Rose, Tuberose, Heliotrope, Ylang Ylang, Carnation, Tarragon, Myrrh, Nutmeg.
Gray Amber, Sandalwood, Moss, Patchouli, Vanilla, Musk, Coriander, Civet, Cedar, Tonka Bean.
Jill Sander No.4........an exercise in luxury.
Michel Almairac has managed to create a Tuberose dominant fragrance that regally sits astride the likes of 1980's sillage bombs such as Poison, Giorgio and Lou Lou and the more sparkling Tuberose scents from the noughties ( Carnal Flower, Michael Kors, Beyond Love ). No.4 is admittedly in very good company.
The fantastic Blonde is from this era, as is Organza and Amarige. All are wonderful Tuberoses and lest we forget the fab Fragile, which came shortly thereafter. These, to name but a few, are extremely enjoyable representations, yet No.4 seems to rise above these. It plants itself firmly in the senses and remains to me, unforgettable.
Ever since Germaine Cellier created a Tuberose measuring stick in the form of Fracas, the intoxicating flower has woven her mighty spell in perfumery. This Jill Sander may have a mild 1980's hangover, but appears to reach into the future as well. The opening is a succulent blast of juicy fruits and a melange of spicy powder. The accord is sharpened by mild citrus and deepened with rose. This glorious top leads to a triumphant Tuberose, sidestepping an anti-climatic transition and delivering an exceptional rendition accented by her ladies in waiting; Jasmine and Ylang.
I do tend to get carried away by this note, but the Tuberose in Jill Sander No.4 is everything you'd expect and more. The drydown is a wonderful version of Sandalwood, Vanilla and Musk. Not exactly a fan of Musk, the rendition here is delicate and somewhat old fashioned. It enhances the fragrance without overpowering it. Some of the obvious heavy hitters like Cedar, Civet, Moss and Patchouli are blended in such a way as to not intrude. They are supportive by way of masterful blending.
As a designer, Jill Sander was known for her minimalist aesthetic at a time when fashion was generally over the top. This fragrance seems to be more indicative of her usage of luxurious fabrics than it does the quiet, elegant lines of her clothing.
It's such a pity that this fabulous Tuberose perfume is now discontinued. I was lucky to find a bottle on the bay and luckier still that it didn't cost the earth to purchase it. I find it truly beautiful and without a doubt, a fragrance ahead of its time.
*****Coutureguru is a member of the Parfumo fragrance community and has been kind enough to contribute this review. Hopefully, we shall see more contributions from not only Coutureguru, but other eloquent reviewers from Parfumo as well. *****