Aldehydes, Bergamot, Clary Sage, Lemon, Lime, Neroli, Rosewood
Carnation, Cedarwood, Jasmine, Iris, Patchouli, Rose, Sandalwood
Amber, Benzoin, Castoreum, Labdanum, Leather, Oak moss, Musk, Tonka Bean, Vanilla
This 1992 release from Ettore Bugatti is a literal boatload of ingredients that has classic masculine aficionados rubbing their hands together in anticipation. I know I looked at the accords and said "Damn" out loud.
There is a Basenoter, by the name of Andre Moreau who has researched this particular fragrance, among others, rather extensively. His "digs" into certain fragrances are actually deep dives. He has owned and given opinions on three different versions of this release. They are insightful and concise. In his opinion, the above imaged version is the best of the 3. It's the version in a frosted bottle with gold cap. I have to defer to him on this because I have only sampled the pictured version and have no experience with the other 2.
My opinion of this classic masculine comes from a 5ml. mini of the frosted glass/gold cap variety. Luckily for me, this particular mini was well stored and intact. That's not to say the top notes haven't dissipated to a certain degree because I believe they have. In spite of that, Bugatti opens with a rather full and satisfying spicy citrus accord that's embellished with immediate, woody undertones. The Carnation is blended rather well here and interacts seamlessly with the floral heart. It's here, after 4 minutes or so, that I get a mild, but persistent play-dough note. It could be the Iris/Amber/Vanilla combination, but who's to say for sure? I've experienced this with a few other scents that listed Lavender/Vanilla, with or without Amber.
From the 5 minute mark on towards the 3 hour mark, this note persists on me and to be honest, I find it a little distracting, but not enough to dislike it outright. This part of the wearing, Bugatti's notes act as one, with no transitions and retaining a denseness that doesn't lend itself to transparency. It's a viscous accord of citric spice, woods and a really well blended floral array. Still, the "play-dough" suggestion is there, albeit low volume.
Once the dry down commences, I'm left with a semi-sweet floral array and a very nice balsamic carnation, supported by a steady, low key leather accord. There's an assist from some mellow Van-Amber. I can't really say I'm experiencing Moss or Tonka of any significance, because I'm not. That's not to say someone else would notice it. I'm content with the dry down I just described and I'm glad the play-dough note has up and left.
Thumbs up from Aromi for Ettore Bugatti's 1992 release and as always, a sample wear is recommended before a blind buy purchase.
Glad to see you are back again!
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