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Halston Z-14

I needed to review this particular scent for a few reasons. One is because I find it semi-maligned by others and I used to wear this quite a bit in the early 1980's. I liked it then.....and I still like it enough to have just scored another bottle at TJ Maxx along with 1-12. 30 years ago, this used to sell for approximately $40 per bottle if I remember correctly. I picked up a 125ml 1-12 and a 75ml Z-14 for $9.99 each at the Maxx because they smell really good, have decent longevity and make economical work frags. Z-14 is a 1976 Citric Leather Chypre and on me, the citric comes front and center. The opening is a volley of very good spice, citrus and wood. There's a slew of good ingredients here and one of my favorite basil-bergamot combos is implemented. The cypress is a spicier woody and while it doesn't dominate the accord, it sure embellishes it. Lurking nearby is the heart of cedar, cinnamon and coriander. It seamlessly introduces itself along with very subtle flo...

Davidoff by Davidoff

Lemon, Lime, Basil, Artemesia. Carnation, Thyme, Rose, Orris Root. Patchouli, Leather, Moss, Castoreum. Davidoff is a penetrating and diffusive masculine. It's color appropriate, but the light green hue belies the presence this fragrance actually possesses. Not long ago, it was pointed out to me that Vermeil for Men in the tan bottle that's shaped like a cigar lighter was exactly the same as Davidoff.  After numerous side by side comparisons, I agree there are many similarities. However, Davidoff is clearly the superior fragrance in both fullness and aroma. Vermeil for Men is akin to Davidoff Lite. Davidoff opens with a deep and tangy citrus accord that embellishes a degree of heaviness. There's hints of herb, resin and even a wispy mint-like note all wrapped up in the bold, citric top. Regretfully, this only lasts a few minutes and is quickly supplanted by a herbaceous, tobacco tandem that's quite bold. Leading the heart is carnation interwoven wi...

Nobile Royalty by Alexander da Costa

I have finally gotten around to picking up a full bottle of this fragrance untried. The reviews I have perused , coupled with the economical price in EDP strength, were the determining factor. It has proved to be a very good hunch and an outstanding addition to my wardrobe for the warmer months. Is it possible for this bargain-basement masculine to be as good ( or dare I say better) than its formidable namesake....Gucci Nobile? Let's face it, Gucci Nobile is a legend in this hobby and pulls down some extraordinary prices. I have owned it and thought highly of it. I won't say it's as good as prices dictate, but good is good. Before the value versus availability got out of hand, Gucci Nobile was one helluva purchase. Enter Nobile Royalty by da Costa. I paid under $10 for 100ml sans shipping for an EDP formula and no sooner I received it at the P.O., I sprayed some on my hand. 10 minutes of analyzing made me realize a side by side comparison had to be done. This smelled to...

Romeo Gigli per Uomo

Grapefruit, Rosewood, Aldehyde, Bergamot, Lavender, Lemon, Mandarin, Plum, Tarragon. Carnation, Cinnamon, Balsam Fir, Honey, Rose, Ginger. Amber, Benzoin, Cedar, Musk, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Styrax, Tonka Bean and Vanilla. For a masculine that has no listed civet note, there sure is a very nice facsimile of one in Romeo Gigli per Uomo. Whether an omission or the combination of note ratios giving me this effect, I am appreciative nonetheless. With that said, Romeo Gigli opens with a tart citrus and lavender. It's of the substantial variety with a precursor of Tonka already rising from the base and lending a powdery texture to the top accord. It's here I get the mystery civet and what I smell is slightly similar to the rendition in Ungaro II. The heart is a smooth transition yielding a soft spice and balsamic resin. This is seemingly done in the absence of a floral accord. The carnation and rose are too blurred on my skin and make a minimal contribution. Ro...

Tuberose Disappointments: Thierry Mugler's A Travers Le Miroir & Guerlain's Mahora

Thierry Mugler: A Travers Le Miroir This is in no way related to Tubereuse Criminelle , despite a number of people noting a similarity to the Lutens fragrance. To my nose, its closest relative is Caron's L'Anarchiste , due to a shared cedar-leaf accord. In fact, I'd say this considerably out-does L'Anarchiste in the metal L'Anarchiste is famous for ( I've always felt L'Anarchiste's copper stopped at the bottle ). The entire thing is dominated by a searing metal tang that's is very edgy but not that uncommon. There are certain chemicals often used in cheap men's products that have a harsh metallic edge, and whatever they are, there's buckets of them in here. It's the olfactory equivalent of biting down hard on a quarter. Tuberose? I can't smell tiniest hint of floral sweetness, buttery richness, or floral headiness that makes tuberose what it is. It's not even some weird, alien tuberose like Caron's Tubereuse . I ge...

Champagne de Bois by Sonoma Scent Studio

Aldehyde, Jasmine, Clove, Sandalwood, Labdanum absolute, Vetiver, Amber. First, allow me to say that I thoroughly enjoy Laurie's creations and I've yet to wear one that wasn't good. There's a particular strand of DNA that runs through Sonoma Scent Studio. It's a very identifiable marker and naturally it's outwardly apparent. Champagne de Bois is certainly no exception. This is viscous and has serious presence. When I hear the word "Champagne", I can't help but think of frivolity and a certain degree of lightheartedness. You will not get either with Champagne de Bois. What you will get however is a terrifically tenacious scent reeking of ambery dew and spicy wood. The aldehyde in the opening is extremely effective in clarifying the accompanying notes. There's also an underlying waxiness to not only the top accord, but the entire composition. This is a substantial introduction and one I love every time I smell it. The clove rendition ...

Jovan Sport Scent for Men

This 1978 Jovan release has me baffled as to its name. A "Sport Scent" brings to mind a certain genre and construction. This is anything but a "Sporty" type masculine. Allow me first thank our friend xmen for his generosity. Henry always surprises me in each transaction with one or more completely obtuse masculines as freebies. He didn't disappoint in our last deal as Jovan Sport was one of the few extras he threw in to keep me confused. My initial impression of this scent is Bruce Jenner wearing Leonard Pour Homme. Sound insane? I cannot help imagining that. The green notes and lavender in the opening accord are immediately joined with the rest of the culprits. The lavender runs point with the green becoming more submissive each passing minute. This is soapy lavender and is caught up with a barely perceptible cardamon, sage, honest-to-goodness oakmoss, patchouli and tobacco. This is very old-skool masculine, but how in the world does it get the tag of ...