Il Mondo di Odore

Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Mandarin Peel, Fig, Dates, Cumin, Nutmeg, Clove, Balsamic Resins, Tonka Bean, Benzoin, Myrrh. I'll give the Serge props for being one ballsy perfumer. Look at the spice-fest this scent stands to be. Not many Houses would have the audacity to brew a concoction like this. I mean really.....where does something like this fit in? The first few wearings of Arabie, I kept wondering if Aedes hadn't sent me the wrong sample because what I smelled and what I read did not jive. The "descriptions" are literally all over the map on this one and my review certainly isn't going to help matters. Arabie has 2 distinct phases on my skin and both are far removed from each other. Arabie begins its spicy and eclectic journey travelling from the east and ends rather comfortably in the land where the sun sets. One aspect I experience in Arabie that I haven't heard discussed is a leather quality. It transpires in the first half of all the wearings....

Tarnished Halo's Heaven ... so many things to so many different people. My idea of 'heaven' is drowning in a vat of my favorite fragrance :) (amongst other things) ... but I'm pretty sure that vat won't be containing this by Killian offering. Far from not being a good fragrance, A Taste of Heaven is actually a very lively take on the somewhat dated combination of Vanilla and Lavender. Notable contemporaries could well be Pour Un Homme de Caron and Chanel's Pour Monsieur, however the Killian is less like an ancient librarian glaring mole-like from behind horn rimmed spectacles enjoining one to silence, than it is like a young and trendy version of the same type of person. This is probably due to an unfortunately short lived shot of Absinthe in the top ... something I would have enjoyed staying around a little longer. The Lavender here is sparkling. I can't, however, help but be reminded of giving Grandma the eponymous range of W...

In my teens I was exposed to a series of romantic novels based on the adventures of a temple dancer called Muna, the Rose of Madore. Katharine Gordon's works of fiction provided a rich tapestry of colour, passion and fragrance ... influencing my fertile immagination to such an extent that I could feel the swirling silks of the sarries fluttering around my legs and catch whiffs of the Attar of Roses employed by Muna in her dancing. The imaginary state of Lambagh and it's Peacock Throne became tangible in my thoughts ... and I fell in love with my romantic version of India.  I was, therefore, thrilled to discover the fragrances of Neela Vermeire Creations ... steeped in the history of this vibrant culture as they are. From the spiritual aspects of Vedic tradition to the significance of Noor Jahan's sequestration and the 'Boom Town' effervescence of Bollywood and Mumbai, the three fragrances from this collection are completely captivating and resonate strongly wit...

The Fairest Rose of All O, how much more doth beauty beauteous seem  By that sweet ornament which truth doth give. The rose looks fair, but fairer we it deem  For that sweet odour which doth in it live.  The canker-blooms have full as deep a dye  As the perfumed tincture of the roses,  Hang on such thorns and play as wantonly  When summer's breath their masked buds discloses: But, for their virtue only is their show,  They live unwoo'd and unrespected fade,  Die to themselves. Sweet roses do not so;  Of their sweet deaths are sweetest odours made: And so of you, beauteous and lovely youth, When that shall fade, my verse distills your truth. Shakespeare had no knowledge of Guerlain's Rose Barbare when he wrote this sonnet. Had the Bard placed his nose upon this beautiful fragrance, he would undoubtedly have torn the page to shreds and started again! M. Kurkdjian has in one single spray transformed ...

Totally worth the wait ... Four years ago I developed an immense urge to sample Fracas, the yardstick by which all other Tuberose fragrances seem to be measured. Some internet investigation revealed the existence of a few modern interpretations of this note, this being one of them. No matter how hard I tried, I couldn't even manage to procure a sample of Tubéreuse Criminelle ... it was shrouded in the mystery and exclusivity of the 'bell jar' line and only available at the boutique in Paris. I eventually gave up and consoled myself with pursuing other Tuberose avenues until I heard a few months ago that it had finally become available in the export line and would soon be arriving at my local niche perfumery. I finally had the chance to try and buy two days ago ... To be quite honest, when a fragrance is as hyped up as this one I am generally let down when I get to smell it. Not exactly a disappointment, I do find Tubéreuse Criminelle to be less than what I ...

Bergamot, Cyclamen, Ylang Ylang, Iris, Jasmine, Muguet, Peach, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Musk. Carthusia Lady is just that. To me, it's a well made feminine floral with enough edginess to offset the floral array, resulting in an interesting fragrance. I'll admit to this one smelling similar to some of the classic chypres, but it has a contemporary feel to it and also possesses a freshness I like. I can picture an attractive woman in white summer silk walking by and allowing me to catch a whiff of this on the breeze a moment later. Carthusia Lady opens with a mild citrus and a Peach-Jasmine duo. It's a refreshing accord that balances lucidity and substance. There's a mild stem-like accent in the mix that compliments the opening nicely. Carthusia Lady ( on my skin at least ) has 2 transitions. The opening lasts a good while and finally evolves into the base and drydown after 30 minutes or so. I kept thinking there was a subtle amber in the finish and maybe it'...

Bergamot, Angelica, Neroli, Iris, Lentisc, Jasmine, Labdanum, Benzoin, Ambrette Seeds. The purple color misled me a bit when first sampling After Midnight. Yes, I guess I'm guilty of color-association when it comes to fragrance. Yellowish Orange would have seemed more appropriate, especially after experiencing the opening, but that's simply my own prejudice. After Midnight opens with a very nice rendition of Neroli that's accompanied by an extremely subtle spiciness and earthy musk. At least on my skin, the Neroli is a standout note while the others slowly evolve at a lower presence during the life of the scent. The Iris is a nice accent and never leads After Midnight into Violet territory. It's well paired with Lentisc and Ambrette. The musk quality, as it becomes more prominent, seems to keep the Iris in check. They smell excellent within their parameters. What I did notice in multiple wearings was the overall presence dissipating after about 20 minutes. I d...