Il Mondo di Odore

You would expect a 1986 release to be the typical no-holds barred, cliched powerbomb, yet sometimes a fragrance from this era  will surprise you with quality over volume. Xeryus is a leathery,floral- fougere that distinguishes itself with smooth masculinity. It doesn't yell or enter the room before you do. I remember a time when I did not like this fragrance, yet life is a confusing experience sometimes. I now hold the original formula of Xeryus in high regard. It's execution of oakmoss could be used as an example to others. ( NOTE***I have not experienced the more recent releases***) Xeryus is a veritable storeroom of notes, but as we all know, the kitchen sink mentality doesn't always hold water. There's no leaks here however as Xeryus glides through it's seamless transitions like a ballet. I am becoming convinced that, in order for me to appreciate vintage frags more fully and accurately, I must continue to sample-wear the endless, modern schlock that inundat...

Deja vu upon first spray. It actually had me scratching my head while I sniffed it. I liked it, but I couldn't get a handle on where I smelled this before. So........the analyzing began as I sniffed and continued the head scratching. Hmmm......Citrus, suede, pepper and nutmeg, a blossoming cedar note, some leather and a hint of amber. Is that honey I smell in there? I think so. It's still very familiar.....Damn.......I have to look in the drobe to jostle the brain cells....... Viola !!!! There, staring me in the face is my hardly used bottle of reformulated Bijan for Men. I hate it now because of how  Five Star Fragrances has castrated an old powerhouse and cut it's balls off leaving a shrill shell of screechy nutmeg and patchouli. Wait a minute.......how can I be enjoying the wearing of Sebastiano and recall my dislike for Bijan? Ahhh yes......I'm remembering the old formula of Bijan by Bijan that knew how to kick up some serious aroma. Enrico is similar with its...

I find this 1998 Davidoff release a bit eclectic and if you research the accords, the information is all over the place. One source will state that cyclamen is implemented while another claims blackcurrant and fig. In truth, it really doesn't matter as long as the totality is a winner. This is a fougere that follows Davidoff Classic down a slightly different path. After wearing Good Life multiple times, I'm persuaded to believe that the accord information, albeit scattered, contains the correct info when pieced together. The opening reveals a citric lavender with what I can only construe as a fig rendition and an even more prominent sage note. It's very different and very good. I also get an aquatic undertone that is extremely subtle and is more apparent in the extended drydown. Once the initial accord settles down, I swear I smell hints of rosewood, but they are intermittent and of a wispy nature. The sage note permeates the composition, is out front and is an enjoyabl...

I have come to the conclusion tht there is quite a bit of fragrance snobbery when it comes to this house. Klein is dismissed by many for releasing, what seems to be, unsubstantial creations. While that may be true in part, it must be understood that any house releasing as many scents as this one has, will most assuredly disappoint a certain percentage. At any rate, I've tried more than a few CK's I didn't like, but CK One is pleasant enough for me to own a bottle and probably keep one in the rotation. One is unremarkable yet very pleasant and easy to wear by either gender regardless of climate. What caused me to buy this for myself was my daughter. Yes......my daughter wears this consistently and has no problem going through large bottles before replacing it. I liked the way it smelled on her and knew it would work for either sex. It's actually a safe choice for summer wear, casual nights out or at home. I also find it works rather well at the gym. Liquid androgeny ...

Released in 1988, I recently had the chance to wear this fragrance. Actually, I had the chance for the last few years since xmen so graciously sent me a sealed can as a freebie, but it just sat there aimlessly until something made me pop this puppy open. Innocuous. Yes......innocuous, but still very nice. The listed notes are simple enough: Amber, citrus, lavender and spices. I also detect a musk in the mix and pepper must be one of the anonymous spice notes. There's no transitions to speak of and for a 1988 offering, it fits in more with the current releases than those of the power era. Still.......there's something likeable here and I can see this be suitable as a work rotation frag or a casual night out. The simple accord has a balance to it and no one note is a standout. They function as a unit and the end result ( although unremarkable) is pleasant enough to warrant a sample wear. I like it enough to purchase if I ran across a bottle that was economical. Thumbs up fo...

The mere mention of the year 1980, when discussing masculine fragrances, conjures up the big shouldered fragrances from the decade of excess. There is an aura to most of these scents that truly is indicative of the time. Enter Balenciaga's Portos; a fairly macho leather chypre and one I seem to love wearing around the house so I can repeatedly smell myself and not worry that people are noticing a grown man constantly sniffing his appendages. Yes.......I have quite a few power masculines that I wear while puttering around the house, toiling on my hobbies or sitting at the computer and smelling flat out awesome. I'll over-apply Portos when at home and simply reek for hours and not worry about sillage casualties. However, to wear Portos in public (and pull it off) takes a deft spraying hand. Cooler temps are also best suited for donning this terrific elixir. Wormwood, Bergamot, Coriander, Cumin, Galbanum Carnation, Cedar, Geranium, Jasmin, Patchouli, Vetiver Castoreum, ...

Marbert Man is a 1977 release and is as masculine as the German language is gutteral. No holds-barred old school machismo here folks and not for those who eschew loud masculines. The accords from top to bottom have an avalanche of power notes and I truly believe this scent was made for the hairy chested, medallion wearing John Travoltas of yesteryear. I admit to loving, owning and wearing power fragrances, but this one may just kick Aromi's ass. Aldehydes, wormwood, basil,bergamot, lavender, lemon Carnation, Cinnamon, Geranium, Honey, Juniperberry, Rose Amber, Cedar, Leather, Moss and Santalum Even reading those accords should let you know you're quite possibly going to be the "Cologne guy" for that evening. Now, don't get me wrong and think I'm hating here. I'm not. Part of me LOVES the power and audacity this fragrance has....and the other part is telling me to jap-slap myself for spraying my body with the amber colored, nuclear concoction that...

My friend Mike Perez recently sent me a sample of this 1970 goodie as I have been curious about this one for years. Sandalwoods are hit and miss with me. I adore the note done in tandem with the right combination of others, but rarely have I come across a minimal sandalwood like this one.......and enjoyed it. That is......until now. Can you say understated? Well......that's exactly what this fragrance happens to be. Years ago, I found Arden's sandalwood to be minimalist as well, but it just didn't have that something I'm looking for in a sandal rendition. Crabtree & Evelyn's first version has it. It's the comfort factor for sure. Now, there's no question I wish this was a bit louder in volume ( and only in volume) ...but....if it was, it's quite possible it would alter the overall smell of this gem. So, with that notion aside, I have to say that mild is good in this case. The way my skin executes this scent makes it a perfect candidate for close ...

I recently acquired this 73ml. bottle of YSL Homme more out of collector-itis than satisfying any curiosity I may have had. As many vintage masculines as I have had or at least sampled, YSL Pour Homme was not among them. I bought it blind and cared not whether I liked it or not. Well, I cannot claim to love it, but I do like it and have respect for its construction. YSL opens with an old school hello, courtesy of Clary Sage, Geranium and Lavender riding upon a wave of citrus. I've smelled this posse before; simply done just a little differently each time. It's a familiar greeting, but it may just be me growing wearing of certain fragrance redundancies. It does however smell very masculine and the ingredients have gravity. The florals are buried beneath spices of marjoram and rosemary giving a blurred impression when the heart accord transitions. This is not a negative and the onset of woodiness anchors the scent and shifts away from the initial aggression of the openi...

There is nothing I like better than finding......or stumbling......upon an impossible to find old school masculine that is not only intact with its integrity, but smells excellent as well. I had been looking for "Man" by Jovan for a few years now and as you'd expect, it rarely rears its head on ebay or anywhere else for tht matter. The notes intrigued me initially since I'm a sucker for leather scents, but after awhile and having no success, I no longer cared about the accords. I wanted a bottle, mini or whatever because this juice truly is hard to find. Lo and behold a few weeks ago, I snagged a 15ml bottle of not only "Man", but it came with its counterpart "Woman" which was also 15ml and perfectly intact. The image is of the actual set with "Man" being on the left thet fits perfectly into the "Woman" bottle. Very sexist, cheeky and 1970's retro. Not pictured is the weird little box they both came in. Jovan Man is a ...