Very recently, I was impressed with Edition Rare Petroleum. I enjoyed it enough to put it on the potential purchase list. Histoires de Parfums is piquing my interest with some very respectable releases.
Ambrarem is the most unapologetic of the Edition Rare series. The peppery introduction is just that; an intro to what will soon become a slightly smoky, woody leather with resin. There's nothing crude here. Apparently, all the edginess was deliberately left to be experienced, yet it's completely appropriate since there's an animalic quality at work here.
Like Petroleum, the tuning here is key. This is not oud overkill. This is resiny oud showcased in a way as not to dominate all aspects of the fragrance. I'm a fan of resinous amber combined with saffron. It just has that "something" I find very addictive if merged in the right proportions.
Apparently, my constant sniffing attests to this house getting it right on the money. The amber is grainy, just a hint sweet and slowly churning underneath all stages of the wearing until it reaches its predestined peak. By the base and drydown stages, the smokiness has leveled off enough to be considered "equalized". My use of that musical term is complimentary. It denotes a terrific balance at work in Ambrarem. I must say that after the half hour mark, this fragrance is a worthy representative of what's good about some current creations and attenuated ouds for those of us who find the note either too strong or intrusive.
The vanilla is well done as you might expect. It contributes only enough to soften and add a comfort factor. It's shy, but diligent and works effectively with the wood that's still pumping out its magic. The resiny amber with smoke and leather has lowered its volume considerably, but is still the central focus of Ambrarem and retains very respectable presence.
Yes, I like this fragrance and would be remiss if I did not recommend trying it. If you're a fan of ambers, ouds, leather and smoke ( and an enthusiast ), then you haven't much choice but to give this one a test ride.
Sillage is good and longevity is 5 hours plus on me. Thumbs up from Aromi for Ambrarem and the house it rode in on.