Il Mondo di Odore

Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Mandarin Peel, Fig, Dates, Cumin, Nutmeg, Clove, Balsamic Resins, Tonka Bean, Benzoin, Myrrh. I'll give the Serge props for being one ballsy perfumer. Look at the spice-fest this scent stands to be. Not many Houses would have the audacity to brew a concoction like this. I mean really.....where does something like this fit in? The first few wearings of Arabie, I kept wondering if Aedes hadn't sent me the wrong sample because what I smelled and what I read did not jive. The "descriptions" are literally all over the map on this one and my review certainly isn't going to help matters. Arabie has 2 distinct phases on my skin and both are far removed from each other. Arabie begins its spicy and eclectic journey travelling from the east and ends rather comfortably in the land where the sun sets. One aspect I experience in Arabie that I haven't heard discussed is a leather quality. It transpires in the first half of all the wearings....

Tarnished Halo's Heaven ... so many things to so many different people. My idea of 'heaven' is drowning in a vat of my favorite fragrance :) (amongst other things) ... but I'm pretty sure that vat won't be containing this by Killian offering. Far from not being a good fragrance, A Taste of Heaven is actually a very lively take on the somewhat dated combination of Vanilla and Lavender. Notable contemporaries could well be Pour Un Homme de Caron and Chanel's Pour Monsieur, however the Killian is less like an ancient librarian glaring mole-like from behind horn rimmed spectacles enjoining one to silence, than it is like a young and trendy version of the same type of person. This is probably due to an unfortunately short lived shot of Absinthe in the top ... something I would have enjoyed staying around a little longer. The Lavender here is sparkling. I can't, however, help but be reminded of giving Grandma the eponymous range of W...

In my teens I was exposed to a series of romantic novels based on the adventures of a temple dancer called Muna, the Rose of Madore. Katharine Gordon's works of fiction provided a rich tapestry of colour, passion and fragrance ... influencing my fertile immagination to such an extent that I could feel the swirling silks of the sarries fluttering around my legs and catch whiffs of the Attar of Roses employed by Muna in her dancing. The imaginary state of Lambagh and it's Peacock Throne became tangible in my thoughts ... and I fell in love with my romantic version of India.  I was, therefore, thrilled to discover the fragrances of Neela Vermeire Creations ... steeped in the history of this vibrant culture as they are. From the spiritual aspects of Vedic tradition to the significance of Noor Jahan's sequestration and the 'Boom Town' effervescence of Bollywood and Mumbai, the three fragrances from this collection are completely captivating and resonate strongly wit...

The Fairest Rose of All O, how much more doth beauty beauteous seem  By that sweet ornament which truth doth give. The rose looks fair, but fairer we it deem  For that sweet odour which doth in it live.  The canker-blooms have full as deep a dye  As the perfumed tincture of the roses,  Hang on such thorns and play as wantonly  When summer's breath their masked buds discloses: But, for their virtue only is their show,  They live unwoo'd and unrespected fade,  Die to themselves. Sweet roses do not so;  Of their sweet deaths are sweetest odours made: And so of you, beauteous and lovely youth, When that shall fade, my verse distills your truth. Shakespeare had no knowledge of Guerlain's Rose Barbare when he wrote this sonnet. Had the Bard placed his nose upon this beautiful fragrance, he would undoubtedly have torn the page to shreds and started again! M. Kurkdjian has in one single spray transformed ...

Totally worth the wait ... Four years ago I developed an immense urge to sample Fracas, the yardstick by which all other Tuberose fragrances seem to be measured. Some internet investigation revealed the existence of a few modern interpretations of this note, this being one of them. No matter how hard I tried, I couldn't even manage to procure a sample of Tubéreuse Criminelle ... it was shrouded in the mystery and exclusivity of the 'bell jar' line and only available at the boutique in Paris. I eventually gave up and consoled myself with pursuing other Tuberose avenues until I heard a few months ago that it had finally become available in the export line and would soon be arriving at my local niche perfumery. I finally had the chance to try and buy two days ago ... To be quite honest, when a fragrance is as hyped up as this one I am generally let down when I get to smell it. Not exactly a disappointment, I do find Tubéreuse Criminelle to be less than what I ...

Bergamot, Cyclamen, Ylang Ylang, Iris, Jasmine, Muguet, Peach, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Musk. Carthusia Lady is just that. To me, it's a well made feminine floral with enough edginess to offset the floral array, resulting in an interesting fragrance. I'll admit to this one smelling similar to some of the classic chypres, but it has a contemporary feel to it and also possesses a freshness I like. I can picture an attractive woman in white summer silk walking by and allowing me to catch a whiff of this on the breeze a moment later. Carthusia Lady opens with a mild citrus and a Peach-Jasmine duo. It's a refreshing accord that balances lucidity and substance. There's a mild stem-like accent in the mix that compliments the opening nicely. Carthusia Lady ( on my skin at least ) has 2 transitions. The opening lasts a good while and finally evolves into the base and drydown after 30 minutes or so. I kept thinking there was a subtle amber in the finish and maybe it'...

Bergamot, Angelica, Neroli, Iris, Lentisc, Jasmine, Labdanum, Benzoin, Ambrette Seeds. The purple color misled me a bit when first sampling After Midnight. Yes, I guess I'm guilty of color-association when it comes to fragrance. Yellowish Orange would have seemed more appropriate, especially after experiencing the opening, but that's simply my own prejudice. After Midnight opens with a very nice rendition of Neroli that's accompanied by an extremely subtle spiciness and earthy musk. At least on my skin, the Neroli is a standout note while the others slowly evolve at a lower presence during the life of the scent. The Iris is a nice accent and never leads After Midnight into Violet territory. It's well paired with Lentisc and Ambrette. The musk quality, as it becomes more prominent, seems to keep the Iris in check. They smell excellent within their parameters. What I did notice in multiple wearings was the overall presence dissipating after about 20 minutes. I d...

Silver Birch, Cypress, Mint, Vetiver, Myrrh, Patchouli, Musk, Oakmoss, Amber. What I noticed most about my wearings of Odin 03 Century was how bright this substantial fragrance opens on my skin. It's not a shimmery accord, but dare I say a woody-metallic? The metallic aspect is short lived and intriguing yet never fully dissipates. It lingers on as an accent for the life of the scent. The pairing of Mint and Myrrh with an undercurrent of Musk is interesting indeed. Century is a mish mash of these ingredients that disfigures the identity of each, yet not enough to render them indistinguishable. I'd like to think they are tuned rather efficiently because the end result is very nice and full bodied. Century never evolves into too much earth or not enough sensuality. Wood is assuredly represented here and is contrasted with spices, earth tones and just enough smokiness to keep you sniffing. I cannot help to find Century masculine to the point where it should be categor...

Citrus, Bergamot, Green Notes, Amber, Patchouli, Oakmoss. The moment you smell the opening of Jockey Club, you know you are in the presence of a conventional barbershop cologne that smells very good. I'm not normally a fan of colognes as I've said a million times before, but as my wardrobe can attest, there are exceptions to every rule. The salutation of Jockey Club is an enjoyable rendition of citrus and green qualities. There's no denying that it's a mature aroma, but it seems to have that intangible that enables it to transcend "dated" and occupy the "classic" realm. The opening and heart are basically the same accord. The citrus and green play off one another with just the slightest contribution from patchouli once the base accord begins. Jockey Club is a refreshing and energetic scent. It also possesses terrific longevity for a "Cologne Water" and can rival many Eau de Toilettes. The first phase of the wearings is your classi...

Galbanum, Lemon, Violet Leaves, Iris, Rose, Violet Flower, Cyclamen, Cedarwood, Ambergris, Tonka Bean, Cashmere Wood, Musk, Ambrette Seeds. So, you have problems with the violet note do you? Well, it's a tricky one for me as well, but Lightscape implements a refined approach, sans anything strident. There's a refreshing quality at work here and I must say I like it. Wearing Lightscape gives me the impression of summertime. Violet can sometimes be a bit shrill on me and I don't enjoy donning piercing fragrances. I do have a few violet scents that work for me and I must add Lightscape to the list. The rendition here performs almost like a mist that radiates outward while it's center incorporates other subtleties. It gives me the illusion of having a wispy demeanor, yet it's very encompassing. The green is ethereal and it works much better than if it was a heavy rendition. Rose, in my opinion, is the most successful accent in this interesting brew. It's l...

Orange, Bergamot, Lemon, Ginger, Pepper, Orange Blossom, Iris. I'm beginning to think I'm the wrong person to review this house. Even when I find a Kilian release I like, it's not "love" and the prices simply aren't justifiable to me. Others go on and on about how terrific this Kilian is or how great that one is. As for me, I suppose I just don't get it and my reviews of this house should be taken with a grain of salt, in spite of my attempts at honesty. I will say that I always smell what I perceive as something well made. That never seems to be lacking with Kilian releases. I have a difficult time coming across one that rocks my world and at these prices, that's what I expect. It's like sitting yourself in a new Corvette and finding out that it just doesn't do it for you like you thought it would. Prelude to Love, on my skin, is basically a rich and long winded citrus with a twist. The Iris supplies the accent and it's reminisce...

Rose, Chamomile, Geranium, Lychee, Honey, Gaiac Wood, Vanilla. The Serge, who I usually associate with eccentric ideas and results, has created something here that is normal personified. Sa Majeste La Rose is also an extremely good rendition in spite of being a fairly straightforward fragrance. I genuinely didn't experience conventional transitions except for the appearance of honey in extended drydown. The opening is a concerted effort of Rose and a realistic green stem quality. This aspect of Sa Majeste La Rose continues on throughout the life of the scent and only relents once drydown and beyond transpire. Others may experience a bit more diversity than I, but I'm not complaining. I suppose I expected more wood and the customary Vanilla finish by looking at the accords. It wasn't to be however and this particular Lutens creation treated me to a deep and lucid Rose instead. The Rose rendition is full bodied and seems to become a tad denser as the wearings go on....

Grapefruit, Licorice, Cedar, Cinnamon, Amber, Leather, Vanilla. It may be just me, but I can't seem to associate the theme of this fragrance to what transpires on my skin. The light, the dark, the forest perimeter and then deep inside the enchanting woods are transitions that must have happened in the mind of someone else. It surely didn't happen to me. That said, I still like my sample wearings of Foret de Becharre. Misnaming a scent isn't a crime in the fragrance world and it happens quite often. What's important is what has always been crucial when sampling. Is it good and does it justify its price? Foret de Becharre is more of a comfort scent with some subtle sensuality thrown in for good measure. It's neither light or heavy, yet becomes more noticeable once the base and drydown come to fruition. Even at that stage, it maintains a certain buoyancy. The listed notes do become realized during the samplings, but they are toned down by way of blending an...

Italian Orange, Green Flower Stems, Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang, Tuberose, Moss, White Musk. Beautiful madness......... Shakespeare's Ophelia is a tragic character who went quite mad after Hamlet's rejection. In her final speech, she hands out flowers. The symbolism of which is quite muddy and seemingly lost in the translation of time. In the absence of the bard himself to direct the stage, contemporary renditions of the role have been described as follows : Ophelia enters with her hair and figure entwined with chains of flowers. On her outer skirt, there is an abundance of them. Advancing slowly and with a glint of insanity in her eyes, she sits down to play with them, all the while singing in a childish manner. Once arisen, she sings her final song after distributing pansies, columbine, rosemary and rue. Pausing after her parting benediction, she rushes out with a burst of mad laughter. James Heeley takes this imagery to more carnal level by centering the fragrance aroun...