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Showing posts from April, 2013

Canoe by Dana ( revised from 2009 )

Lemon, Lavender, Clary Sage, Carnation, Cedar, Clove, Geranium, Patchouli, Heliotrope, Oakmoss, Musk, Tonka Bean, Vanilla. I recently read a rare fragrance review submitted by Michael Storer. Rare in the sense that Michael Storer doesn't really review scents and then upload his opinion for the public to read. He is an Independent Perfumer who creates and distributes his own brand. From what I can tell, Michael is also a very nice person in a tough and competitive business. He recently chose to submit a review of Canoe ( of all things ! ) and when I finished reading his post, I was inspired to revise my own review. I had every intention of doing so anyway, but Michael's review persuaded me to do it now. Let it be known that I actually do own and wear Canoe on a rotation basis. The Canoe Cologne I own is an EdC from approximately the mid 1960's. I don't know how much of a difference there is between it and later releases. I have about 25ml. remaining from the ...

Salvatore Ferragamo Platinum pour Homme

My best guess as to the accords are as follows : Cyclamen, Bergamot, Grapefruit, Ginger. Cardamom, Geranium, Pepper, Cedar, Orris Root. Sandalwood, Vetiver, Musk. I apologize for having to guess at the listed notes. I can find no info on this "Platinum" version of Ferragamo, yet it's exactly what it states on the NIB 50ml. I picked up recently. It's not closely related to the original Ferragamo pour Homme, so it's an entity all its own, yet with no forthcoming information about year of release or ingredients. Let's just call it the Mystery Bargain Bin Ferragamo for Men. I know it doesn't exactly roll off the tongue, but it is what it is............ The opening is rather enjoyable in spite of it possessing that chemical vibe I associate with more current creations. Since I don't know when this was actually released, it may have been on the cutting edge of construction and aroma. In any event, I like it enough to employ this fragrance as a wo...

Newport by Caswell Massey

Bergamot, Mandarin, Lemon, Lavender, Geranium, Muguet, Rose, Ambergris, Cedar, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Musk. After wearing Newport by Caswell Massey a few times and then reading what others had to say about this recent formulation, I found some of the opinions harsh. I have no way to compare it to the heralded vintage formula, nor can I use memory as I've never tried the original. Enter the current version. I do agree with some reviews that this rendition does not bring about the sense of beach and salt, but there's a long line of fragrances that fail to represent their depictions. However, Newport isn't so far off the mark that it's a complete misrepresentation. I can imagine wearing Newport ( or something similar ) in a beach setting. It smells classic due to the way Citrus, Lavender and Geranium are implemented. It's assuredly retro, but it seems to have that intangible I like that keeps me sniffing. Newport, at least on my skin, is top heavy in the sens...

Anne Klein Eau de Parfum

Galbanum, Green Notes, Aldehydes, Hyacinth, Neroli, Bergamot, Chinese Cinnamon, Cassia. Bulgarian Rose, Mandarin, Lily of the Valley, Orchid, Fruit Notes, Tuberose, Ylang Ylang. Sandalwood, Vetiver, Vanilla, Amber, Benzoin, Musk, Civet, Ambergris. I cannot help but get a charge out of fragrances created and released in the 1980's. Good or bad, they gave new meaning to the definitions of volume and tenacity. Not every creation was made in this fashion, but most were and especially the ones making a run at being financially successful. That time period really did epitomize excess and "more is best". Music, business and fashion were also a testament to this mindset, so it stands to reason that scent would follow suit. Anne Klein's 1984 release is a big, feminine floriental that needs a sparing hand. The last thing one wants to do is to apply this liberally. However, this isn't strong simply for the sake of being strong. Anne Klein is actually a very good fe...

Coty Sand and Sable

Jasmine, Gardenia, Peach, Gardenia, Green Notes. My initial reaction to this 1981 floral concoction is DAMN ! This heady brew is not for everyone and that includes those in proximity to the wearer. Bordering on crass, Sand and Sable opens with both barrels. I have to tell you that this particular scent simply isn't my cup of tea, but I know from researching it that others like it enough to own it and give it a thumbs up. As for me, Sand and Sable succeeded where many, many others have failed......and that is to give me an eye-piercing headache. I kid you not when I say I had to remove it from my skin ( more than once ) and take some Ibuprofen. Naturally, the presence would have eventually dissipated and become somewhat tolerable, but I could not wait it out. I don't enjoy headaches and each time I have sampled Sand and Sable, a noticeable and throbbing pain would develop behind both eyes. I love fragrance and especially sampling all manner of diverse creations, but ...

Legacy 1912 Titanic Eau de Parfum for Women

Lemon, Orange Blossom, Hyacinth, Rose, Violet. As far as I've read, this fragrance was inspired by a Titanic survivor who was hoping to sell his fragrances in the Big Apple. I happened to run across a nearly full 75ml. bottle last month and purchased it untested. Released as an EDP, what I noticed after multiple wearings was the politeness inherent in the entire composition. The volume seems to be governed regardless of sprays, but perhaps that's a misconception on my part. At any rate, the dispersion is well behaved and mannerly, while smelling feminine and surprisingly good. Legacy is a citric floral that I can see succeeding in warm temperatures. Legacy opens with a sheer accord of citrus and leafy green aspects. The blossom is tuned a bit more assertively than the lemon, but their balances are executed very pleasantly. The combination of Hyacinth and Violet is just as good. The leaf and stem qualities compliment the violet rendition and is soon accented by a demur...

Gucci No.3 Parfum

Aldehydes, Coriander, Green Notes, Bergamot. Orris Root, Jasmine, Muguet, Tuberose, Rose, Narcissus. Amber, Oakmoss, Leather, Musk, Patchouli, Vetiver. I am reviewing the parfum version of this 1985 release from Gucci. The minute you get a whiff of this creation, you KNOW that you will not smell fragrances made like this anymore. I wish to avoid rambling on about how the industry is castrating perfumers and saving us from ourselves. It's a done deal and the artistry won't be coming back unless current ( and future ) visionaries can pull a horseshoe out of their collective asses. On the flip side however, not every release from the bygone days was worthy of accolades, despite having less restrictions. I suppose that leaves us truly appreciating the good ones and selectively forgetting the not-so-good. Gucci No.3 Parfum opens substantially and is devoid of any scratchy qualities usually associated with some EDT's. I'm not accusing the Eau de Toilette version of ...

Joy EDP by Jean Patou

Aldehydes, Tuberose, Green Notes, Ylang Ylang, Rose, Orchid, Orris Root, Jasmine, Muguet, Rose, Sandalwood, Musk, Civet. I'm happy to sneak a review in of Patou's Joy since my hectic schedule ( as of late ) has curtailed any enjoyment I may find outside of my job. I have been asked recently if I was forgoing the blog and fragrance reviews altogether. My answer is hell no. I have fragrances I need to sample and review, but work has become crushing and I'll eventually return to a ( somewhat ) normal routine. Well........I'm hoping it will soon............ Anyway, I'll start by saying I do not know how different the earlier renditions of Joy may have been compared to the bottle that sits before me now. The version I have is in no way vintage, but that means less and less to me as time marches on. We'll never get those oldies back, so it's pointless to carry on about it. Joy's opening is classically floral and sans any mustiness I've experience...