Il Mondo di Odore

Got Patchouli? I'll ask again.....got patchouli? I find CB I Hate Perfume's rendition to be a misnomer. This is a Wood Empire and certainly not one made of patchouli. 5 different patch scents are said to be in this fragrance in order to cover the range of patchouli personality. The initial blast of Empire is citrus with pepper and wood. Even 30 minutes into the scent, this smells exactly like the inside of an acoustic guitar that has a spruce top and mahagony sides. There's also cedar as well. Maybe they got confused and it's supposed to be 5 different woods backed by a subtle accord of patchouli? This is actually a very good woody and I give it a big thumbs up for that since I love wood and the smell of guitars. But a patchouli dominant offering? Not on your life.

If L'Artisan would have stepped up the volume of anise in this release, it would have come off as a very toned down version of i Profumi di Firenze Dolce Patchouli. Upon application, Patchouli Patch is medium to low volume with the anise peeking its head out from under patchouli and mild florals. I perceive what I believe as a very subtle pepper note in the midst of this accord. After a few minutes, a musk slowly assimilates and the marriage of these notes is the essence of Patchouli Patch. On me, it remains as such until the longevity fades after a few hours. This is a subtle and soft rendition of musky patchouli with a tad of licorice. This scent would work well if you don't wish to garner attention to your fragrance but wish to smell good up close.

Patchouli Antique is the most economical niche patchouli I have come across so far, but by its fragrance, you wouldn't know it costs about half of what its rivals are going for. This is an almost dry, earthy scent. There are feint whiffs of an autumn leaf and cocoa. These phantom aromas are fleeting yet interesting. The patchouli scent itself reminds me of Molinard, but not the fragrance as a whole. The vanilla and musk take their time arriving, but add a very good dimension to this uncomplicated rendition. If you're looking for a solid niche patch that has bang for the buck and some restraint as well, Les Nereides Patchouli Antique is more than capable of delivering.

Real Patchouli by Bois 1920 is uncomplicated, yet an excellent version of patchouli and wood. Many fragrances that I like use a combination of amber and vanilla and they differ in note proportion, but the deft use in Real Patchouli is a truly pleasing one. Bois opens with minimal citrus and then gets right to it with a sweet woody patchouli. This isn't over-the-top Cheech and Chong patch. It doesn't even matter if Bois used a high end patchouli or not. This is extremely well blended and the tenacity of the patchouli is commensurate with the sandal and van-amber. They are ( to me) in perfect balance and just loud enough to satisfy the longevity a scent in this price range calls for. This is a badass patch for either gender.

So......you like patchouli do you? Well, if that's really true, then Indonesio by Farmacia should fill that void in your life. This is patchouli from top to bottom, head to toe and if I missed an area, that too. From the very first few seconds, there's no mistaking this for anything but what it is; and that, my friends, is an earthy patch scent with a hint of grass.....and I mean only a hint. Whatever development there happens to be with Indonesio is contingent upon the wearers skin. This has one note and the Indonesian patchouli smells like garden earth in a field surrounded by coniferous trees on my skin. The "dirt" is barely moist from a recent sun shower and the clumps of damp grass that are in tufts nearby are carried by my nose on a breeze. This is patchouli.......and an excellent one at that.

Intrigant Patchouli is a different take on patchouli, albeit a good one. The patchouli is very evident, yet it seems content to share the limelight with its opening partner; namely ginger. Ginger is a tricky note to implement successfully into an accord outside of Orientals, but Intrigant pulls it off with flair. During my initial wearing of this months ago, I concluded it may be a touch too feminine, but with subsequent wearings, I have changed my mind. The benzoin here is giving me a grape-like aroma, with maybe a hint of plum and the musk works well with it. It eventually morphs into a smooth fruit,wood and amberlike presence that I have come to like very much. This truly is a shared fragrance and an eclectic but worthy edition to anyones patchouli collection.

Lavender, Rosewood, Clary Sage, Bergamot. Geranium, Rose, Muguet, Jasmine. Patchouli, Cedar, Sandalwood and Vanilla. Cigars, cigarettes, tiparillos? Cigars, cigarettes, tiparillos? Do you remember those commercials? That's what Zino by Davidoff reminds me of. Zino Davidoff seems to have been quite the character himself. Images of him as an older gentleman have him looking as robust as the fragrance that bears his name. He became a purveyor of smoke instead of the dentist his mother wanted him to be. Ironically, he was to be inside peoples mouths in a different fashion his mother envisioned. His love of cigars culminated in the creation of Zino the fragrance. Zino opens with a moist woody lavender that's spiced up in grand fashion. It unfolds in a large manner like a mushrooming puff of smoke. It has density and the tobacco accord could not be restrained even if the Secret Police were called in to curtail its arrival. The sage and geranium act as an accord irritan...

Safari is a true Fougypre from 1992. It shares the traits of both Fougere and Chypre, yet manages to stay on the passive side. The name itself is almost a misnomer since it would allude ( at least to me) of being an anamalic fragrance, yet it is not. Safari is an underrated fragrance; especially when compared to current trends. Released on the heels of big fragrances, it seems very tame by comparison and even pitted against current trends, its volume is low key. The idea of wormwood and musk in 2 of the 3 accords would lend the notion of a wild and potentially feral offering, but Safari never achieves this. It's not so much an indictment as it is bewildering, yet Safari still manages to be a solid enough masculine that's worthy to have in a wardrobe. Aldehydes with  wormwood, lavender and green open Safari, leading quietly to a floral heart accord of rose and spicy fern, carnation and jasmin. The base is more of a leather chypre style with the musk revealing itself more as ...

Bergamot, Cassia, Grapefruit, Green note, Lavender, Lemon, Rosemary. Anise, Artemesia, Carnation, Cinnamon, Honey, Jasmine, Muguet, Orris root, Rose, Tarragon. Amber, Cedar, Leather, Musk, Patchouli, Vetiver. Apparently, I have a love-hate relationship with Tenere due to the initial salutation of this 1988 floral masculine. In every wearing, it smells as though the implemented notes are ill matched. This is only in the opening however and the remainder of the scent does become comfortable. The grapefruit note is at least partially responsible for the mismatched quality I get. It seems that it goes against the grain and because Tenere is a substantial fragrance, it feels magnified for the time it lasts. It's a challenging opening accord, but there are those who may find this an amazing contrast. The citric top is tart and thick. The grapefruit jostles with lavender and spice. It's here where the discordancy lies for me, but I know Tenere intimately enough that t...

Artemesia, Basil, Bergamot, Cumin, Green Notes. Thyme, Carnation, Rose, Geranium, Muguet, Jasmine. Patchouli, Oakmoss, Leather, Amber, Musk, Cedar. Chevignon Brand was released in 1992 and inevitably compared to Polo Crest. I'll avoid that debate and concentrate on telling you about Chevignon. It was only a few years ago that I recall someone informing me that Bogart was behind this fragrance. That was enlightening, but I can't say that Chevignon is a volume monster like numerous Bogart creations. It's plenty strong, but it's not like some of his notables. Chevignon opens with a blast of citrus that is green at its core. It's a heavy rendition, but not smothering. In truth, it smells much better than you would think for a masculine in this price range. Within 15 minutes of application, Chevignon lowers the projection and volume and settles in to become a very pleasant citric with spice and wood undertones. The floral heart of Chevignon is blurred an...

This is a classic and well known patchouli dominant fragrance held in high regard by many. Their assessment of this release is correct. This is good...no....this is very good. To me, Borneo is a non-gourmand gourmand after multiple wearings. The infamous cocoa accord is front and center and coupled with Indonesian patchouli. So far, so good. Latching on is an earthy green note and a subtle anamalic amber. The entries of anise and low key florals are seamless. The amber in the base is seemingly of a different nature than the first and the anise is further empowered by tarragon as well. For patchouli lovers who have never tried Borneo, it would behoove you to do so. This fragrance is one of the few niche measuring sticks for this genre. Kudos to this House.

You immediately know upon first sniff that you are experiencing a very good patchouli fragrance. Violet, which is not a favorite note of mine, is so well blended amongst the other culprits, that it is almost indiscernable and simply comes off as floral. The first few minutes I believe I detect a cherry pie note weaving it's way through the accord, but it's very subtle and works it's miniscule magic in the opening. I believe heliotrope is responsible for this phantom aroma. Micallef tilts slightly gourmand with it's woody chocolate note courting a van-amber duo. This gourmand aura is like a background for the earthy patchouli, leatherized wood and vetiver. The sillage is perfectly tuned and longevity is what you'd expect from a $2 per ml. fragrance. I will risk saying that Micallef Patchouli is right up there with Coromandel in terms of excellence.

Looking for a well executed patchouli that's unisex and leans gourmand? Chanel's Coromandel is one of the best patch fragrances on the market. Period. This is a smooth and sophisticated rendition of augmented patchouli. Out of the gate, Coromandel treats you to a spicy patchouli with a touch of insence. The pepper note is perfect and no other frag I know uses pepper so well except Patou Pour Homme.  Within minutes, a chocolate and vanilla patchouli materialize with a tad more emphasis on the chocolate note. This accord has serious longevity until it finally succumbs to a woody oriental base with yes....patchouli as its permanent guest. There are many niche scents showcasing patchouli these days and my opinion is that Coramandel is near the apex of this distinguished list.

Mandarin, Artemesia, Basil, Cumin. Carnation, Tobacco, Cinnamon, Fir. Vetiver, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Oakmoss. Think of the word raucous. It doesn't matter how many times I revise a review of Aramis Havana, that description always holds water. I am currently revisiting this classic and felt the need to update my previous ( and very brief ) opinion of it.  The one thing that stands out the most is how obnoxious Havana isn't. Powerhouse scent? No, I no longer consider it to be in that category. It's projection and volume simply don't warrant that classification. Is it substantial? The initial stage of Havana surely is. The accord listings are all over the place with each site that has them featuring a different recipe. Havana begins large and quickly learns to live within its means. Montana Red Box has been compared to Havana and for good reason. It's brighter than Havana, but quite a bit like a rough and tumble sibling. Havana opens with ...

This is well done Fresh Fougere from Dunhill. Released in 1986, it must have been in the direct line of fire from all the powerscents, yet it still is held in good regard from those in the know. Citrus and lavender upon contact with green note and additional help from mace. This is a balanced fern theme and may lean more toward the bergamot. After a few minutes, the soft roundness of Lily of the Valley starts seeping upwards and tagging along with it is a slightly spicy floral bouquet. The drydown is a mixture of earthy, woody, sweet and green....all in the proper volume and distibution. Wearing Dunhill Edition will let you know that Gucci Nobile isn't the only excellent Fresh Fougere in town.

Anise, Bergamot, Fruit note, Lavender, Rosemary. Carnation, Nutmeg, Sage, Geranium, Jasmin, Rose. Amber, Cedar, Moss, Musk, Patchouli, Tonka bean and Vanilla. It's been said that Caron's 3rd Man is too beautiful a fragrance for a man to wear. That is a classic half-truth. Yes, it is a beautiful masculine. It's also extremely wearable and shines when worn in the appropriate venue. 3rd Man is very elegant and borderline fragile. Neither description pertains to any shortcomings. It encompasses elegance and fragility while being a very substantial fragrance. This is the inherent magic of 3rd Man. The opening is one of the better introductions you'll find in perfumery. A misted sheen of citric lavender envelopes your skin and possesses a delectable licorice quality. To state that this is smooth is an understatement. There's also a hint of herb that tilts 3rd Man slightly green. The top accord lasts a respectable amount of time before transitioning into ...

1988 saw Jean Laporte release Ambre Precieux. 88 was a good year for Jean it seems. This is one of Maitre Parfumeurs best alongside Santal Noble. The top accord is superbly blended ( as is the entire fragrance )  and I can detect the slightest hint of quality lavender over ambergris and vanilla. At first, I thought I there was a pastry aroma in the accord, but upon further introspection, it seems there is a spice note as fragile and interwoven as the lavender giving me this impression. This is one of those scents that has you continually sniffing yourself. The vanilla seems to incrementally escalate along with a dash of cinnamon. After 10 minutes, the scent has evolved in its entirety on me. It has very nice sillage and even better longevity. Ambre Precieux is a sweet, van-amber, yet not cloying. This is terrific if you are partial to ambers with subtle aromatic spice thrown in the mix. Jean......great job once again.

In 1994, Villoresi launched this raucous and raw rendition of vetiver onto an unsuspecting public. Some are still reeling from shock and awe. At first, this made me recoil a bit from its crudeness and volume. It has taken a few wearings of Vetiver to appreciate its earthy and slightly nutty aroma. This smell is ingrained in what appears to be a plank of dry, sun-worn rosewood that someone sprinkled with conventional black pepper. Yes...dinner table pepper. I liken Lorenzo Villoresi as being the Frank Zappa of the fragrance world. He's a bit nuts, in-your-face and usually raw enough to sport a T-Shirt that has " The Ugly Truth" emblazened across the front of it. Villoresi is a take it or leave it parfumeur and regardless of whether or not his scents are for you, they are a force to be reckoned with for sure.

This is a brand new release from Parfum d'Empire. Upon applying Wazamba, I get a bracing shot of incense mingled with myrrh. Incense lovers should like this opening quite a bit. It's an exotic aroma and within a few minutes, I detect a warm apple note. It's actually quite nice and gives me the impression of east meeting west. Sweet and medicinal wood notes seemingly come and go while resting upon the incense, myrrh and an arriving current of opoponax. This is a strange and yet pleasurable incense fragrance that possesses moderate sillage but better longevity due to its EDP strength. Very nicely done by Parfum d'Empire and a worthy niche addition for those with a proclivity for this genre.

Creed's Selection Verte is approximatley a 40 year old release. As expected, it is well blended creation from a prestigious House. This scent is green, but not in the conventional sense. The herbal notes and mint give it this aura, but herbal it is, albeit laced with peppermint. The vibe thrown off of Verte is a "cologny" one. I am unsure whether the use of pepper is redundant, since the mint is already transporting that spice. There's subtle florals and citrus, but the herbal-mint marriage is the dominant theme in this Creed. I find the Ambergris in the base to be a wallflower here. The heart accord is the spirit of this release.

This 1997 offering from Moschino reminds me of a casual meets clubbing type fragrance. I find it to be musk dominant, with excellent sillage and longevity. Zesty citric opening with a hint of herbal and spice with musk already working upwards from the base accord. Heady woods softened up with amber and of course, the musk all blend together to establish a well blended fragrance. For the most part, I have never found musk in and of itself a scent I truly like. Moschino Uomo has a fashionable version of it however and one of the better takes on this note I have come across. Pleasant creation from this house.

Lorenzo Villoresi is notable for creating raw and in-your-face masculines. This 1993 release isn't one of them however and a deft touch was used in making this scent. Effervescent is the best word I can muster for the initial opening. A very zesty citrus coupled with woodified florals and spice literally blast out of the bottle. I especially enjoy the use of petitgrain and juniper which seems to jump start a vetiver of excellent quality. I notice the vetiver and it's nutty quality after only a minute or so and it remains throughout all the accords. This is good stuff folks. Sandalwood joins the drydown along with subtle patchouli making Uomo a balanced masculine worthy of admiration. This scent uses vetiver in a clever way....and it's a winner.

I have owned L'Instant EDT and thought it a nice masculine that was borderline gourmand. The EDP is a more substantial version in terms of it's midrange pitch and drydown. L'Instant is a well blended scent that opens with a cocoa and warm tea accord. Anise is following close by ready to inject the chocolate with a sweet licorice. This bitter and sweet tandem works well and continues through the life span of the fragrance. An earthy wood note resurrects itself about 30 minutes into the accords and finds room to co-exist with the chocolate and anise. This is a gourmand ambiance that is not of the edible variety. A very nice offering from Guerlain that has excellent sillage and longevity.

Hermes released this beautiful Leather Chypre in 1986. There has been at least one subsequent reformulation that I am aware of and it's not a flattering one either. This review is for the original version. Opening is super smooth with spicy citrus that is an orange-basil-sage combo teamed up with petitgrain. This smoothness is a Hermes signature for the time period. Flat out rockin. The heart accord is even more excellence consisting of cedary florals supported by earthy tones of vetiver and patchouli. The base of this scent is somewhat restrained......and that is in keeping with the overall feel and volume of Bel Ami. Leather, anamalics and moss threaten to steer this in another direction, but the judicious use of vanilla keep this on a leash and it works splendidly. All in all, what we have here is an outstanding spicy chypre that is a worthy addition to any wardrobe.

This was released in 1984 and accurately categorized as a fresh fougere. It has some chypre attributes as well, but a good fougere is what it is. Spicy citric opening with a hint of woody floral from petitgrain and mace as well. There's a green overshadowing this from the heart and adds a very nice slant and in keeping with the fougere theme. The heartnotes are a laid back conglomeration of florals (eg.,carnation, geranium and jasmin) with fern in the dominant role. The drydown is a subtle cedary-amber with a hint of anamilics and earthiness, but just a hint. This fragrance is at the correct volume and a gentleman. "Green" fans should like this very much. I like it alot and I am more inclined to orientals as a personal preference. Good to go Fougere from Borsalino !

Aldehyde, Bergamot, Cardamom, Coriander, Lavender, Lemon. Carnation, Geranium, Ginger, Jasmine, Muguet, Pimento, Rose. Amber, Cedar, Leather, Musk, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Tonka bean, Vanilla. In spite of tobacco not being listed, Krizia Moods Uomo has an excellent, but sharp tobacco vibe running clean through it from the beginning. There's a "cutting" quality to Moods Uomo as it exhibits jagged edges and it reminds me of something that's restless. The aldehyde opening is extremely lucid and immediately it is followed up by the carnation and geranium. This creates the grittiness. The citrus is content to be an assistance accord here. The main characters in the first half of this play are the spicy floral notes. They really are of the rugged variety and can't imagine smelling this on the female persuasion. The only note tempering this down at all is the Lily of the Valley and even though it's acting as a restraint of sorts, it barely does the job. T...

This reminds me of a cross between Ricci Club, Tristano and Chevignon. This is actually a very decent casual Chypre that leans more toward a green citrus than leather variation. Spicy green bergamot upon application with a hint of wood. Not bad...not bad at all....and there's spicy green florals coming your way in the heart accord. The "green" here isn't in your face, but more of a coloration that works rather well. The base is an even-keeled, leathery amber, chypre-esque, musk concoction ( wow...that was a long-winded sentence !) that I find works to perfection in Soprani Uomo. This would work well as a nice office or work rotation fragrance and-or casual night out scent. Nice job Luciano.

Here we have a very smooth 1986 Ambery Chypre from Ferre. The opening of this pleasant scent begins with an orange colored bergamot and what may pass as a subtle green peach. This is nice........ The heart is not a prominent accord, but rather the green and slightly woody floral arrangement seem to lift up the topnotes and hold them outstretched. This is very well blended and the green stays peeking out just enough to stay ahead of everyone else in the pack. The base is a well behaved chypre with leathery amber, anchored with cedar,moss and vetiver and even more green added just to make sure it never strays from its predestinated path. A winner from Gianfranco Ferre and a nice, off-the-beaten-path release.

Lancetti Uomo came about ( I believe) in 1982. An edgy, almost pointed leather-woody chypre that has a dark presence. The cedar and leather in this fragrance face off almost from the get-go. The topnotes are spicy citrus with a sharp, green borderline wood note. The first few minutes ( to me) are a bit reminiscent of Leonard PH. The heart is floral dominant, yet the standout notes are vetiver, rose and a hint of patchouli. Ten minutes into the scent and you have leathery cedar and dark vetiver vying for your attention. The base adds a mossy-anamalic dimension and the scent is classic powerhouse but never loses its rough edges. If you like classic scents that are bordeline raucous, this may just serve you well.

Basil, Bergamot, Lavender, Lemon. Carnation, Geranium, Spice, Iris, Jasmin, Patchouli, Pepper, Sandalwood, Cedar. Amber, Oakmoss, Labdanum, Leather, Musk, Tonka, Vanilla. Gucci Pour Homme the original. I have likened this to Guerlain Derby and still abide by that comparison, but I will say that Derby ( in either formulation ) is the superior fragrance. With that said, Gucci Pour Homme is an excellent woody leather masculine and worthy to be compared to the legendary Guerlain. I love the citric opening in Gucci. The lemon, as fleeting as it is, meets my expectation of the perfect rendition. It lasts less than a minute on my skin, but it brings a smile to my face every single time I wear it. It leans slightly green almost immediately and the use of spice here is judicious. Gucci Pour Homme has a certain degree of sophistication. It's tuned like a governor spring has been installed to control the overall volume. It's never loud nor are you wondering if you applied en...

It makes one wonder sometimes why so many terrific fragrances have become extinct. This 1993 release is yet another in a long line of under the radar gems that have gone the way of the T-Rex. It gets discouraging at times, but if it was still in production, they would have emasculated it beyond recognition by now. The industry loves to perform lobotomies on fragrances still gracing the shelves and none seem to be spared. Basala opens with a clear and bold aldehyde-citrus accord. It immediately leans slightly greenish from herbs and spices. A stupendous lavender rendition is forcing its way upwards within one minute of application and all of these are mingling together like an eclectic Lutens cocktail. When I say this is good, I mean it. I only wish this opening could last for the life of the scent. Once the tumult subsides somewhat, hints of berry and mysterious fruit find their way into the fray. Damn this is good and stands head and shoulders above most designers released...

Balenciaga Pour Homme was released ( I believe) 12 years after YSL Kouros( 1978) and it seems to me that it was created in the Kouros mold, albeit with some tweaking. It's like a refined "Baby Kouros" and has its own identity. Lavender, Coriander, Bergamot, Green and Fruit notes, Lime, Orange. Jasmin, Muguet, Caramel, Honey, Carnation, Cinnamon, Leather, Orris,Rose Vanilla, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Benzoin, Amber, Cedar, Labdanum, Styrax, Tonka Bean. Two things stand out to me after wearing Balenciaga Pour Homme over the years. One is how utterly dense this fragrance is. If rich food can give someone the gout, then it's lucky for us that Balenciaga isn't edible. This wears as heavy as a primer coat of liquid armor. The second thing noticeable is the musclebound, spicy carnation at the very heart of Balenciaga. This composition uses a few different wrinkles, yet manages to come off as "Kouros Mini Me" sans the animalics. Am I hating here? Qui...