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Patchouli Magique by Novaya Zarya

  Top : Bergamot, Lemon Heart : Sandalwood, Incense, Patchouli, Labdanum Base : Vanilla, Musk I'm not quite sure when this Russian Patchouli was initially released, nor am I sure which rendition of Patchouli Magique I actually have. I have the bottle and box pictured. Most images I've seen, over the years, are in different bottles. The formula may or may not have ever changed. I have no way of knowing as I've tried to score a bottle for years. I recently found a stateside seller who had this, so I pulled the trigger. It was a 25ml. spray with box and had about 5ml. missing. I've read the reviews, where I could find them and most were positive. I now know why people have liked this one. So, is it really magic, or at least magical? No, but it is a worthy, lighthearted patchouli with a very comfortable dry down. To me, that's where the magic lies. Patchouli Magique opens with a slightly alcoholic blast of biting citrus that already has musk integrated into the opening ...

Bugatti by Ettore Bugatti

  Aldehydes, Bergamot, Clary Sage, Lemon, Lime, Neroli, Rosewood Carnation, Cedarwood, Jasmine, Iris, Patchouli, Rose, Sandalwood Amber, Benzoin, Castoreum, Labdanum, Leather, Oak moss, Musk, Tonka Bean, Vanilla This 1992 release from Ettore Bugatti is a literal boatload of ingredients that has classic masculine aficionados rubbing their hands together in anticipation. I know I looked at the accords and said "Damn" out loud. There is a Basenoter, by the name of Andre Moreau who has researched this particular fragrance, among others, rather extensively. His "digs" into certain fragrances are actually deep dives. He has owned and given opinions on three different versions of this release. They are insightful and concise. In his opinion, the above imaged version is the best of the 3. It's the version in a frosted bottle with gold cap. I have to defer to him on this because I have only sampled the pictured version and have no experience with the other 2. My opinion ...

Giorgio Beverly Hills Giorgio for Men Vintage

  Aldehydes, Bergamot, Fruit Note, Orange, Pimento Carnation, Cedar, Cinnamon, Orris, Patchouli, Rose, Sandalwood Amber, Benzoin, Honey, Moss, Musk, Tonka Bean, Vanilla. In 2009, I did a review of the reformulation that was available at that particular time. Reading my own review, I felt there was no need to seek out the vintage since what I already had was very good. Enter the year 2013. My bottle from 2009 is gone and I pick up another. It's a different reformulation; brighter and more shrill with a phantom sawdust note. It's still good and I like it, but it's different. I still have a reference atomizer of it for comparison. If I had to choose between the one I had in 2009 and 2013, I'd choose the 2009. It simply was more robust and "full" I now have a vintage bottle from somewhere between 1990-1994. It wasn't a vintage-only purchase. I just happened to come across it while looking for a replacement and the price was right. Surprisingly, the vintage isn...

Reminiscence Patchouli by Reminiscence

  Patchouli, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Labdanum, Vanilla, Tonka, Vetiver, Musk. My Achilles heel has always been the Patchouli note. I know it's a love it or hate it note for many. I have always loved Patchouli dominant fragrance since the 1970's. Yes.....I said the 70's. I had an extended hospital stay in 1977, One of the nurses, who worked my floor, wore patchouli every day. That's all it took for me. I've owned Reminiscence Elixir, Eau de Patchouli and a revised version of this. All were different and all were good. The original version of Reminiscence Patchouli, which I am reviewing, is also different and more related to Bois 1920 Real Patchouly and definitely related to the updated release in my previous review. The first thing one notices when spritzing this particular Reminiscence version of Patchouli is..........Patchouli !!! I'd say it's moist as opposed to wet and within minutes the perceived condensation evaporates, leaving a drier version of patch m...

Lacoste by Patou

Basil, Bergamot, Coriander, Lavender, Petitgrain, Rosemary, Lemon. Fern, Geranium, Heliotrope, Clary Sage, Carnation, Patchouli, Vetiver, Cedarwood, Cinnamon. Ambergris, Moss, Musk, Tonka Bean, Vanilla. This 1968 release of Lacoste by Patou shows the lighter side of Jean Kerleo. This is in line with the overall image it tries to project. Golf, fairways and a sporty-casual aura depicts Lacoste rather well. I've had this on again for about 30 minutes. I'm rather impressed with the totality of it. There are many listed notes , but repeated sniffing assures me this was made in a different era. It has a certain gravitas, even though it's a "sport" fragrance.  The citrus, spice, herbal and earthy qualities are all present and accounted for. It smells completely appropriate to wear in the spring-summer months regardless of being involved in an activity. The carnation adds that classic masculine touch and seems to come to the fore a bit more as the weari...

Voyageur by Jean Patou

Orange, Grapefruit, Lavender, Sage, Sandalwood,      Cedar,     Oakmoss. Voyageur is a different type of fragrance from the House of Patou and released in 1995. The 1990's was an exercise in moving away from the powerhouse masculines of the eighties. Sure, there were still "substantial" creations here and there, but nothing like the preceding decade. In hindsight, this probably wasn't the best timing or marketing from Patou, but at least they came up with something that was contemporary and potentially competitive with the onslaught of aquatic releases. This particular sample I'm reviewing was sent to me courtesy of a generous and knowledgeable Basenote member by the name of epapsoui. The opening of Voyageur is overall familiar, yet pleasant. I find this a better fragrance 23 years after its release than I ever would have at the time it came out. I would have expected a more complicated and innovative creation from this house and that would have ( mor...

Reminiscence Patchouli Elixir

Virginian Cedar, Javanese Patchouli, Haitian Vetiver, Australian Sandalwood, Frankincense, Madagascar Vanilla, Tonka Beans, Tolu Balsam, Musk. I reviewed this particular scent in November 2009 and it was an extremely brief one at that. I had just started the blog then, so more than 6 years later is ample time to revisit this release. Acquiring another bottle of this is also good reason to do so, so without further ado...... Wearing Elixir by Reminiscence, I'm reminded not only how good this house does Patchouli, but how this particular release leans masculine although marketed to women. I own and truly enjoy Eau de Patchouli by Reminiscence. That one is in the center of the gender line and a brighter rendition. Elixir is woods and earth tones galore. It's darker, more masculine and not as transparent. All patchouli, to some, is of the head shop variety. They cannot distinguish nuances since the note is permeating and strong if it's a featured note. Since I truly...