Sunday, January 29, 2012

Fareb by Huitieme Art

Immortelle wood, Leather, Cumin and Ginseng.

I've worn this multiple times now before posting an opinion on Fareb. I'm finding this one to be a Dr Jekyll. I like it one wearing and don't the next. Go figure........

The wearings I liked better were the ones that the Immortelle was more pronounced. The other wears had the cumin-ginseng at the fore and I admit to not caring for that too much. It seems that if I shake the sample a few times, I get more Immortelle. Once again, go figure........

Fareb is extremely uncomplicated and what I get in the opening is what I get for the life of the scent. It's not because there's only a few listed notes. I'm quite sure there's a good deal more in the makeup of Fareb. It's simply the way it's tuned.

If perhaps the Immortelle and leather notes were attenuated in a more noticeable fashion and only assisted from the spices, Fareb would probably have a much broader appeal. As it stands, the two notes I wanted most are much too passive and play second fiddle.

Fareb is also on a lower volume as a whole. That may be a good thing as cumin can be a bit alienating. The rendition of it here, besides being louder than it should, isn't an offensive one. It's recognizable as cumin and in tandem with the ginseng, they both add a spicy, earthiness to the composition.

Once Fareb hits what normally is a drydown stage, it becomes smoother in spite of the spices still being center stage. The Immortelle spreads out and adds what I can only describe as a calming influence. It still isn't at a volume I would like, but I guess we can't have everything.

The leather note isn't anything I can identify as a conventional implementation. It's this, coupled with the anemic rendition of floral, that forced me to conclude that this is simply not my cup of......errr......cumin.

Sillage is average with longevity a bit better than that. A neutral rating from Aromi for Fareb by Huitieme Art. Go figure.........

Friday, January 27, 2012

B*Men by Thierry Mugler

Anise, Licorice, Violet, Spices, Cedar, Patchouli, Vetiver, Leather, Vanilla, Musk.

This Mugler release has been around awhile now and it certainly seems to have its share of detractors.  When B*Men first hit the malls, it didn't polarize like it does in the current market.  Now, both Angel and B*Men seem to have lost their luster in the eyes of hobbyists. Not in all eyes however..........

B*Men is as good as its always been. Our preferences  have changed over time. The "no apologies" aroma of  this particular scent is in variance with today's sensibilities. It also doesn't help that for years, numerous people wore way too much of this and Angel.

I am in no way a Muglerite. I guess I am as neutral as one can be when it pertains to Thierry's creations. I hear, I try, I form an opinion and then post it. There's a subtle gourmand theme that runs through numerous Mugler  releases. B*Men is no exception with it's burnt and carmelized agenda.

Perception is in the nose of the beholder. Rhubarb? Coffee? Singed Cocoa? I can't say yes to all of those, but who am I to say that someone else is smelling something that isn't there? To me, there's manifold spices blended together and then sauteed up in a simmering pool of Sambuca.
Tarragon and flower petals are added into the  eclectic brew and topped off with a cup of French Vanilla cappuccino. Keep on simmer for 10 minutes and remove from heat only after the glaze shows signs of burning.

Naturally, the totality of what I perceive doesn't exactly jive with the listed accords you'll find from numerous sites. None of that matters. When I wear B*Men, this is what I get and I admit to liking it more than others seem to.

I have found that misting 2 to 3 sprays works great and I call it good. I can't say I find many occasions to wear it, but I prefer to lounge around the house, from time to time,  reeking of something an irresponsible barista concocted. Sillage is good and longevity is 6 hours plus.

A positive-neutral rating from Aromi for Thierry Mugler's B*Men.




Genie de Bois by Keiko Mecheri

I was unsure about trying Genie de Bois as it features the violet note and that one is precarious for me. There's something about the way violet is used that either makes me walk away from it or appreciate it.

I like the Mecheri line and since Keiko is intent on releasing very civilized renditions, I assumed that Genie de Bois would be in keeping with the house mentality. As expected, there's not a rude or caustic note to be found in the vicinity.

Genie de Bois is an uncomplicated floral woody. It leans on the feminine side, but not overtly so. I would have no qualms in wearing this and it feels suited for office, casual or even a frivolous night out. It wears light, but that doesn't mean there isn't substance here. There's substance all right.

 Genie de Bois is one of those fragrances that is more
noticeable to others in your proximity than it is to the wearer. The cedar note is very evident and incrementally becomes more dominant as the wearings ensue. It eventually evolves into a woody with violet overtones. Once the opening accord dissipates after 15 minutes, the gender barrier dissolves and the shared aspect of Genie de Bois becomes apparent.

Now, do I like the violet rendition? I have to say yes. It's one of the better ones I've worn and for comparison, I'd say that it's on the other end of the spectrum from Grey Flannel. Keiko's version of the note is very supple and maintains presence in spite of this.

I believe that if I smelled this on someone at my place of employment, I would compliment them on it and ask what they were wearing. The houses of Mecheri and Micallef are my solutions when I have the urge to wear something that's in direct contrast to my classic fragrances. I enjoy having a softer touch now and then and Keiko may be the Queen of the brush stroke.

Once again, an appreciative thumbs up from Aromi for Her Softness, Keiko and Genie de Bois.


Thursday, January 26, 2012

Terre de Sarment by Frapin

Grapefruit, Neroli, Cumin, Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Orange blossom, Incense, Benzoin, Tobacco, Vanilla.

Even though the notes are listed and easily seen, the last thing I expected was an excellent grapefruit, incense and tobacco accord blasting to life on my skin when I applied Terre de Sarment.

I mistakenly thought the Incense and Tobacco would slowly integrate into the fragrance, but they are the framework from the very beginning. The others come to fruition at different transitions and that's what makes this have real depth.

I give kudos to the grapefruit rendition because it lasts much longer than a puff of smoke. It works oddly well with the Incense and the tabac note reminds me of pipe tobacco.

Within 20 minutes or so, you will find that name is totally appropriate. A beautiful, earthiness unravels and instead of taking the baton from the tobacco and Incense, it augments both. The tuning of notes is commendable and the ratios are seemingly perfect. They succeed in getting across to the wearer that this particular scent is about soil, tobacco fields, the life giving sun and subtle smoke that exudes from Mother Earth.

The spices in Terre de Sarment are nicely used. They never intrude more than accenting notes should and add dimension to the inherent earthiness. I was surprised that the Orange Blossom never evolved into a sweet rendition. The tartness of the grapefruit held it in check and together they account for a multifaceted citric accord worth smelling.

On me, the vanilla takes quite a long time incarnating. The extended drydown is when I get intermittent whiffs of it softening the earthy tobacco. It's a very comfortable stage in the evolution of Terre de Sarment.

In closing, this is a worthy fragrance that possesses nice sillage and excellent longevity. If you have a predilection for earthy tones in your arsenal, you should put this on your must try list. It's alluring and down to earth......literally. Big thumbs up from Aromi for Frapin's Terre de Sarment.

Monday, January 23, 2012

Frapin 1697

Cabreuva, Davana, Jamaican Rum, Cistus, Pink Pepper, Jasmin, Sambac, Hawthorn, Ylang Ylang, Clove, Cinnamon, Dried Fruit, Rose, Ambergris, Tonka Bean, Myrrh, Patchouli, Cedar, White Musk and Vanilla.

Frapin releases some interesting and eclectic scents. Some are a bit challenging, yet they find a way to balance a little daring with convention. This house seems to have a penchant for implementing spicy elements in their creations.

I guess it's safe to say that 1697 is part daring and part business as usual. This approach is in keeping with the house. This particular fragrance is complex, but it doesn't wear like one. The volume and overall aroma is very nice, but the slew of notes makes it difficult for all to be heard and felt.

One of the promo lines for 1697 is that "this is the stuff angels stir with their wings when they fly over the vineyards where the liqueur of the gods is distilled".

I find nothing overtly boozy about 1697. The opening is unique in that it incorporates a floral-woody-balsamic with spice. The floral accord is like a canopy. It's a well blended, non descript affair that is, at once, delicate and substantial. I find it a very interesting effect. The more I smell it, the better I like it.

The clove is nicely executed. It has presence but isn't all encompassing . It seems to play well off the cinnamon and mild myrrh. Once the labdanum takes on a slightly resinous tone, the clove seems to amplify just a bit. Even with all the interplay of notes, 1697 finds a way to remain spicy and calm at the same time.

The amber is very noticeable in my wearings. Barely sweet and putting off a subtle resin quality, it's at the heart of 1697. While the pepper note lasts, they accentuate one another very nicely. As you can surmise, it doesn't last that long, but the ambery aura remains. My biggest surprise was the lack of presence from jasmin-rose.

In totality, 1697 is a spicy, herbaceous woody that has a floral halo resting over it. The clove is always there, but it along with the other spicy aspects are an asset. In extended drydown, it softens with the addition of oriental notes, but they are never really conspicuous.

Sillage is adequate and longevity is about 5 hours on me. I give 1697 a thumbs up but recommend a sample wear.






Saturday, January 21, 2012

Sienna Musk by Sonoma Scent Studio

Musk, Sandalwood, Nutmeg, Cardamom, Ginger, Clove, Mandarin, Cedar and Cypress.

One of my favorites from Sonoma Scent Studio. This is a musk dominant scent served up a tad different. I won't go as far as to say the rendition is arid, but ( on me ) projects a dustiness that I have come to thoroughly enjoy.

Sienna Musk falls in between sensual and just plain smelling good for the sake of smelling good. I don't claim to have a wardrobe full of terrific musk representatives, but enough of my collection have musk as part of the drydown. Some I like, some I'm ambivalent to, but what they all have in common is that none smell as good as this one.

It's true that Sienna Musk doesn't simply use the musk note in a base-accord setting. It opens as a spicy woody with that unconventional musk permeating the opening accord and beyond.

From the onset, you will become aware of how well this is blended. It's very rich, yet still has room to expand and breathe a little. The note volume is tuned to perfect pitch on me and that's something I'm always looking for in everything I wear.

Transitions? Not so much, but who needs them in a substantial scent such as this? Sienna Musk is good to go from the second the sprayer is depressed and you hear yourself involuntarily saying "Damn" !

The spicy wood doesn't take long to incorporate a balsamic nature. This aroma never leaves and merges with the everlasting musk. THIS......is Sienna Musk in a nutshell. The spices and cardamom are very agreeable and offset the wood and musk in grand fashion.

Sillage is terrific and longevity is off the charts on my skin. A big thanks to Laurie for taking the time in releasing a fantastic musk that flirts back. Thumbs up from Aromi.


Friday, January 20, 2012

Bois 1920 Come La Luna

Sicilian Mandarin, Sicilian sweet Orange, Rose Wood, Pink Pepper, Coriander, Indonesian Patchouli, Cedar, Amber and Incense.

The very first thing I noticed about Come La Luna was the retro opening of citrus. This top could have been on any number of classic feminines. It's one of those accords that you can literally taste in your throat and it  doesn't take much of this to get noticed. Over apply this one and you will be noticed on the lunar surface. I'm not badmouthing here, just giving a heads up that Come La Luna is no lightweight and if you have issues with sillage and longevity, pull the trigger on a sample of this. Your worries may be over.

I always enjoy citrus implementations and especially notes such as mandarin and tangerine. I cannot say that I like the rendition here in Come La Luna. It smells brash and synthetic to me. It's also tuned too loud for my taste, but others may have a different opinion of the opening.

The Pink Pepper is also a bit abrasive, so I guess it's safe to say that the intro isn't winning me over. After 15 minutes and the scent settles down some, I like it a bit better. The citrus now has shed the heaviness that bogged it down and the spice has eliminated the caustic aspect it possessed in the beginning. Come La Luna is still strong, but the combination of the notes dissipating and olfactory fatigue permit me to move along in the wearing.

The transition to the base accord reveals an earthiness compliments of the patchouli-amber duo. There's also a wood component arriving at about the same time, but it doesn't resemble rosewood to me. If anything, it's a shadowy cedar note and these new arrivals salvage the wearing. Up until now, it hasn't been that great a ride.

Extended drydown produces a more interactive, resinous  amber. That along with the subtle incense is a nice touch. Other than that, I have to give Come La Luna a neutral rating. Sillage and longevity are very good, but I have to love what I'm smelling in order for those things to be an asset.




Thursday, January 19, 2012

Grisens by Phaedon

Pierre Guillaume is behind the Phaedon releases and he seems to be on a mission of sorts the past few years. Trust me when I tell you I'm not complaining because he puts out innovative fragrances. The ones I have sampled so far have been well made, but I wouldn't expect less.

Grisens is not one that falls into the innovative category, but it's one, excellent incense perfume. On me, it's dusty dry and isn't of the conventional, smoky variety. I can find only 2 listed notes that make up Grisens and they consist of Incense and Sandalwood.

Grisens is about a grey incense that, from what I've read, is indigenous to the island of Awaji. About a century and a half ago, this island became the hub for Japans incense needs. Apparently, the winds on the island of Awaji result in only seasonal work. This "disadvantage" resulted in the blossoming of what once was the cottage industry of incense. The winds are also reported to be advantageous in drying the incense, so it became a win-win situation for not only the island, but Japan as well. 'Funny how things work out sometimes.

In spite of only listing Incense and Sandalwood, I also detect an excellent, musky vibe going on underneath in addition to subtle spices. Grisens is slightly earthy, resiny and woody. It also reminds me of Incense that hasn't been lit.

Sillage is very nice and longevity is commensurate. Both of Pierre's recent endeavors ( Huitieme Art and Phaedon ) have left me feeling very good about the other releases under both banners. I will no doubt sample them very soon. An enthusiastic thumbs up from Aromi for Phaedon's Grisen.


Wednesday, January 18, 2012

Myrrhiad by Huitieme Art

Myrrh, Black Tea, Licorice, Vanilla

The nose for Myrrhiad is Pierre Guillaume. I decided to buy a sample recently while perusing ThePerfumeShoppe. I believe all the releases from Huitieme Art Parfums hit the market in 2010 and his new creations under Phaedon have been released in 2011.

Pierre has been busy. He has an impressive resume and since I also like myrrh, I was compelled to give this a whirl. I've worn it twice now and it felt denser the first wearing, but Myrrhiad is still a substantial fragrance with some presence. The 2nd wearing gave me the impression it was a little more spatial than the first time and has room to breathe.

Naturally, this is all about myrrh and the few accompanying notes work well with one another. Myrrhiad embodies just enough sweetness to enhance its star player. The tea and licorice notes are readily apparent when you get close and then more diffusive at a distance. This is a full bodied aroma and extremely pleasant.

The implementation of this particular myrrh note is very lucid. There's nothing murky about Myrrhiad and smells as uncomplicated as it really is. I happen to like everything about licorice and any note that gives off a similar aroma. This happens to be a nice version and I love how it interacts with the Black Tea. I've been lucky lately in reviewing a few fragrances that had a really worthwhile tea note in the accords. I can add Myrrhiad to the list. These 3 notes smell like they were made for each other.

The opening continues for quite some time and since there are no transitions to speak of, all one can do is wait until the vanilla begins to creep into the fragrance. Eventually, it incrementally evolves and adds a nice, spicy oriental touch to Myrrhiad.

This is a nice fragrance. It's simple, direct and smells very good. The sillage is above average and longevity is commendable. This will last most of the workday on your skin and the same can be said for evening wear. Either gender can pull this off and gets a thumbs up from yours truly.

Monday, January 16, 2012

Les Nombres d'Or Vanille by Mona di Orio

Brazilian orange, Indonesian cloves, Petitgrain, Rum extract, Bourbon vetiver, Ylang Ylang, Indian sandalwood, Gaiacwood, Vanilla absolute, Amber and Tonka bean.

Mona di Orio's Vanille is not just another vanilla fragrance. You might think that, by name alone, this could be a one trick pony or very linear. On the contrary, Vanille is complex and multi-faceted.

I enjoy the vanilla note as much as most people, but only in certain implementations. If it results in that waxy, vanilla candle aroma, I end up shunning that fragrance. I annoy myself due to the fact that this particular note, in certain variations, arouses such a sensitivity. Since I'm stuck with my olfactory, I move on and when I find one that works, I'll extol its virtues.

Enter Mona di Orio's Vanille. This is a spicy, woody vanilla and falls smack in the middle of the gender category. It would smell appropriate and extremely good on anyone.

Vanille has the ability to exude largess, yet the accords are tuned to evoke not only presence, but balance. The vanilla is out front, but never enough as to smother the accompanying notes. There's a terrific sense of balance here and showcases Mona's prowess as a nose.

The opening is a short lived citrus, followed by a rising vanilla paired with petitgrain and clove. Thi is a well done clove note and it works wonders with the gaiacwood.

I'm developing an affinity for gaiac as of late and find it a fabulous note. It's multi-dimensional and possesses an interesting aroma. The resiny aspect of Vanille is a well played card and trumps whatever booziness I was expecting.

Vanille dries down to a woody vanilla with resins and hints of spice. The sillage is deceivingly expansive and longevity is about 5 hours plus on me very easily. What can I say then except this is yet another bombastic creation from Mona di Orio and leaves me melancholy that she is gone. Big thumbs up from Aromi for the big, bad Vanille.

Sunday, January 15, 2012

Comme des Garçons Series 2 Red: Sequoia


As a lover of far too many woody scents, I am not only the the self-declared mayor of my perfume collection, known as Wardrobe City, but I am also the proprietor of the virtual village eyesore known as Red’s Lumberyard.  Thus, CdG Series 2 Red: Sequoia, is one of those scents that I probably should have tried sooner.  It is supposed to evoke, if not mimic, the scent of California redwoods, e.g., its namesake, Sequoia sempervirens.  It seems to do this rather well.

To say those wonderful words, that make the friends of old-growth forests faint on the couch, "Let's git 'er in the mill, boys!"

Sorry!  Just kidding! ;-)

Sequoia opens up with some momentary citrus, lifting what smells like a fairly unique redwood scent.  It is something like an average of cedar and pine, but milder and more like a hardwood aroma.   There is a brief flurry of dirty and animalic notes as the fragrance settles down, which it does very quickly.  After this, it seems rather linear to me.

The redwood heart has a certain dryness to it, which is probably from a touch of incense, but it is layered with earthy, mossy and “wet” notes, which – overall - give it a very authentic, natural feel.  The heart stays woody for a long time, taking the wood fully into the base, at which time soft musks replace wetness, and give a gentle and - you guessed it - woody drydown.

Longevity is good, but projection is only average.  It wears close, and generates minimal sillage.  Overall, it’s a nice skin scent.

Artistically, I feel that it accomplishes what it sets out to do, yet not in a clumsy or obvious way.  It's the tree, proud in a quiet way - reflected in a quietly majestic scent.  There is a certain complexity that reflects the fact that the tree is more than a simple wood - it's an ecosystem in itself.  (*nature lover's sigh*)   There's a reason that Bertrand Duchaufour is the nose behind every fragrance on the market.  Scratch that - I just learned that he did not do Chanel no. 5 or Jicky.  Sorry - my bad.

Don’t let the “natural” part deter you, o lovers of real, old-fashioned fragrance – this is perfectly wearable as a perfume, in some ways like Timbuktu (*snicker*).  However, if you want to “go big” on the perfumey aspects, then this one is not for you.  In fact, for a nice and similar woody scent that really steps out on the red carpet, I prefer Lubin’s Itasca, which has a big, “red”, woody smell, but which is also quite fragrant in a classically feminine way.

My final call is that Sequoia is a non-essential sniff unless you’re a wood enthusiast, in which case you need to sniff at least once.  However, if you’re someone who loves “natural-smelling” fragrances, and are willing to compromise on the use of at least some synthetic aroma chemicals to accomplish this, then by all means give this a test drive.  You may be pleasantly surprised that a designer like Comme des Garçons, with their own dedicated “synthetics” series, would create something this natural-smelling.

PS – My objectivity on this juice was severely tested by my admiration for Cherokee geek Sequoyah, who I consider one of America’s first code/language evangelists, and who is the grand-namesake of this fragrance.  Do check out his story on Wikipedia.  His foresight and persistence is very reminiscent of some of Silicon Valley’s finest geek heroes!


Saturday, January 14, 2012

Villoresi Sandalo

Funny how we can come full circle with certain fragrances. There was a time when I found Villoresi's Sandalo much too harsh and downright crude for my taste.

My palette has broadened over the years from simply staying active in the hobby.   I still equate Villoresi as being the Frank Zappa of perfumery. No, I don't mean buffoonery, but rather an "in your face" and a take-it-or-leave-it approach. His creations always seem to be rugged, but that's one mans opinion.

Sandalo has a "not quite finished" air about it. Lorenzo has chosen not to cover the flaws in sandalwood and has it stand completely naked before the world.
Naturally, there are other players in the works in this fragrance, but the sandalwood is deliberately left to stand or fall on its own merits. If those of you considering sampling Sandalo necessarily don't harbor much love for sandal, rosewood or some lavender, then be advised that you will find this NOT to your liking. I love sandalwood, but for years, I only cared for creamy and assisted renditions of the note. Case in point is how niche houses continue to augment patchouli with amber and vanilla. It's become an industry recipe of sorts.

Villoresi's Sandalo opens with sandalwood , lavender and  petitgrain as they ride upon a small wave of citrus. The citrus dissipates quickly to reveal facets of rosewood within minutes of application. The rosewood ( to me ) is more dominant than anything and jostles with the sandalwood for the entire ride.

I have another obscure sandalwood that is very similar to me once the opening is finished. It's called "Sandalo" as well and was released by ERBE Profumi. I have no info as to year or accords and I admit to researching it unsuccessfully.

There's numerous heavy hitters listed in Sandalo such as Labdanum, Vetiver, Neroli, Rose, Moss, Musk and Opoponax, but they pale in comparison to the sandal and rosewood. They remind me of guests invited to a party and then promptly ignored. In the extended drydown, some of them rear their heads, but they are cautious and quiet about it.

It's all good however. Villoresi Sandalo is one of the benchmark sandalwoods and years later I can say rightly so. Big thumbs up for Lorenzo's macho woody.

Friday, January 13, 2012

Passion Boisee by Frapin

I guess I have come to expect incendiary fragrances from Frapin. It's true I've only sampled a few, but they don't have many releases to begin with.

I ordered a sample awhile ago after perusing the accords. A sucker for woodies, I'm always interested in one that I haven't tried and especially if it's from a house I hold in regard.

Passion Boisee opens with a slightly alcoholic and indistinct citrus. At the same time, there's a rubber aroma coming into play from the leather note. It's not an off putting latex smell, but I notice it and am glad when, after a few minutes, it morphs into a conventional leather note.

Tangerine? Well, I happen to love the smell of tangerine more than any other citrus. I enjoy the aroma of all citrus, but tangerine has that special something. The listed tangerine in Passion Boisee is ( to me ) a very generic rendition and difficult to even identify as such. There's a citric accord at work here for sure and I'm more comfortable naming it mysterine. With that said, it still smells okay. Just don't expect a palpable and juicy orange derivative.

The fragrance, as a whole, is surprisingly on the mild side. Spices of nutmeg and  clove with rum had me expecting something else entirely. Their volume and contribution is much too passive for my taste. The same can be said for the moss and patchouli.


Passion Boisee has underwhelmed me considerably. Its totality is the opening blast of mildly alcoholic citrus with the latex. The leather transforms quickly, yet is pushed to the side by the oncoming cedar note. Within 10 minutes, the wearer is left with a pleasant cedar fragrance that is uninspiring and sadly lacking originality.

Passion Boisee smells nice, but I can only muster a half hearted neutral rating for this. Half a thumbs up from Aromi.

Thursday, January 12, 2012

L'Ambre de Carthage by Isabey

Cistus, Bergamot, Osmanthus, Jasmin Tea, Patchouli, Amber, Sandalwood, Olibanum and Musk.

L'Ambre de Carthage is an Eau de Parfum and exhibits a thick, swirling effect when applied. I'm unfamiliar with the house of Isabey, but L'Ambre is nice enough to warrant future samplings of other creations.

The labdanum is so front and center that it can be smelled before applying it. Once on skin, the labdanum and citrus spread out and create an inviting accord. Within a minute or so, the tea note and floral tones squeeze into the fray and the resiny spice that comes with it is very interesting. I love this part of the fragrance and only wish it could stay just like that.

The floral component in L'Ambre is exceptional. There's hints of sweet from jasmin and there's also balsamic undercurrents. The tea note seems to work rather well with this accord and I'm not exactly a fan of tea notes. When I find one I like, I give it praise like I'm doing now. L'Ambre is classified as a masculine, but guess what? Anyone could smell good wearing this.

After 20 minutes or so, the resin becomes a bit more obvious. There's intermittent hints of smoke, but nothing like that "ever-present sustain" that frankincense implements in other creations that you may have smelled. It's seemingly kept in the background here and it's an effective way to use it.

The woody aspect of L'Ambre is a bit on the anemic side, but the  amber takes care of what the sandalwood has left undone. It's not a big deal as far I'm concerned since this is an amber fragrance after all. The patchouli is deep underneath all this action and lends just enough of an earthy element to keep L'Ambre from leaning too far on the sweet side. Just like in life, there's things unseen and unheard that make it all work.

Sillage is excellent as is the longevity. Fans of amber need to sample this one. Big thumbs up from Aromi for Isabey's L'Ambre de Carthage.


Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Lubin Idole Eau de Parfum

Rum absolute, Saffron, Black cumin, Bitter orange peel, Doum palm, Rock rose, Smoked ebony, Frankincense, Sugarcane, Leather, Sandalwood and Amber.

Upon hearing of Lubin's planned release of an Eau de Parfum version of Idole, I was anxious to try it. I truly enjoy the EDT and also admire Olivia Giocabetti. I assumed I would like this rendition......and I was correct.

The first impressions of Idole EDP is balance and blending. This is very smooth and stays true to the original. Normally, I'll do a side by side comparison, but I felt that it was unnecessary in this case. This is Idole through and through, with some of the brightness removed from the opening accord. In that respect, it's similar to Guerlain's Heritage EDP in that it moves quickly to the heart and maintains a bit more density.


Do I like the EDP better? Actually, I like them the same. I also think it would be redundant to own both. If you have the EDT, I recommend that you be satisfied with it and forgo the EDP. If you have neither, sample both and then choose which one pleases you more.

The opening of Idole EDP is the boozy saffron accentuated by a deftly used orange. Both versions have this booziness, but it's not over the top. It hints at booziness more than anything else. These 3 notes are what makes the magic. The peel gives the perfect accent to the rummy saffron and the result is very satisfying.

The heart reveals a mild and smokey incense with a subtle contribution from wood. I keep smelling cedar in spite of the listed ebony and sandal. Regardless, its encroachment into the transition is seamless.

Once the base arrives, Idole becomes a bit leathery. This isn't a conventional leather nor is it a very obvious one. Like the EDT, it's perfectly suited for the scent itself. The drydown affords the wearer hints of resinous amber that lean toward the dry side.

The sillage is respectable and longevity is better than that on me. There's no doubt that the EDP version of Lubin Idole gets a thumbs up from Aromi.  Kudos to Olivia for keeping this rendition extremely close to the original release.

Tokyo Milk, the Dark Collection, Part 2 of 2



Femme Fatale Perfumes
 



In part 1 of this Tokyo Milk Dark series, I reviewed six of the original eight edps: Crushed (a very green jasmine); La Vie La Mort (a slightly spicy tuberose); Bittersweet (cacao bean-flour composition); Excess (an excellent labdanum amber patchouli); Arsenic (an “unexpected” absinthe, salt and fennel unisex fragrance); Everything & Nothing (an orange-potpourri-tea scent). I promised to return with reviews of Bulletproof and Tainted Love, which were backordered and never sent to me. I eventually had to re-order them from another vendor, and happily they have finally arrived.


Since my investigations into the Tokyo Milk Dark line began, however, Margot Elena, who may well suffer from hyperactivity attention deficit disorder—given that she simultaneously runs three separate perfume houses (Tokyo Dark, Lollia, and Love & Toast)—managed to launch a whole new series of Fate and Fortune “roller parfums de cigarro” to further augment the already impressive line-up of the Tokyo Milk Dark Collection.



Fate and Fortune parfums de cigarro

These new creations (not identified as eau de parfum or eau de toilette on the applicator itself or in the descriptions at vendors, but only as “perfume”) come in 10ml thin cylinders which are matte black with stylized white lettering, to perfectly match the sleek bottles of the Femme Fatale collection. The equally sleek Fate and Fortune rollerball applicators come housed in large cigar test tubes with cork-stopper bottoms which are certainly aesthetically appealing and interesting to look at, albeit not entirely functional or helpful, it seems to me. One of my test tubes arrived cracked, and I must say that they aren't that great for putting the perfume vessels on display, because they are so tall and likely therefore to fall down.


One might consider storing the rollerballs in the glass tubes on their sides, I suppose, but a problem with that idea is that unless they are slipped very gently and carefully into the outer tubes, they are likely to crash into the fragile concave glass top and break it. It would have been nice if the tips of the test tubes had contained some sort of cushion mechanism, I suppose, but instead, they really seem to me well suited only for donating to someone's chemistry set.


The rollerball applicators arrive rubber cemented to the cork base, which of course is designed to prevent breakage during shipping. But once they are a part of your collection, the test tubes seems somehow irrelevant. In any case, it was a creative touch, for better or for worse, and for which Margot Elena can always be counted on. Now to the perfumes, the final two members of the Femme Fatale collection, and five members of the Fate and Fortune Collection:




BULLETPROOF
Upon initial application, Bulletproof smells to my nose like a leather perfume, particularly if it is liberally applied. It is really quite remarkable, and must be attributable to the ebony and the black tea. I find the tea rendition here to be closest to China black—there are no chai spices, and I do not detect any coconut or coconut milk whatsoever.

I am reminded a bit of the opening of Hermès Hermessence Poivre Samarcande, which offers a very marked Assam tea note, according to my nose. Assam is not China black, but they are certainly closer to one another than either is to most other things in the universe. In any case, the two compositions diverge quite a lot in the drydown, because Poivre Samarcande manifests an incense note, while Bulletproof does not. Instead, the drydown of Bulletproof smells like a cross between a rich piece of resinous ebony and a pot of very black, stoutly brewed China tea. The seasoning is not sugar or cream, but cedar!

This creation is not at all sweet, clearly unisex, and would perhaps make a good pseudo-leather scent for vegetarians. On ne sait jamais. As for me, I find Bulletproof wearable but nothing that will need to be replaced once this 2oz bottle is empty. I think that a couple of better ebony wood compositions by Margot Elena are Tokyo Milk Dead Sexy and Love & Toast Pomme Poivre, both of which I encourage ebony enthusiasts to test.


Apparently Dead Sexy has garnered something of a following, but I like Pomme Poivre even more. I appear to be one of the few amateurs of that perfume on this planet, no doubt in part due to the radical disparity between the name and qualities of that composition. Zero apple, zero pepper. Why is it called Pomme Poivre or “Apple Pepper”? inquiring minds may well wish to know. I'm afraid you'll have to take that up with the elusive Ms. Elena, as I have no idea! You might also inquire, while you have her in your clutches, as to the meaning of “Love & Toast” or even “Tokyo Milk,” for that matter! But I digress...

Salient notes (from the bottle): smoked tea, coconut milk, crushed cedar, ebony woods


TAINTED LOVE
This perfume is a rare case of a Margot Elena combination of notes which has already been done so many times that it calls to mind literally dozens of middling mainstream oriental fragrances. It's the sandalwood and vanilla which doom this composition to redundancy. Sandalwood and vanilla probably smelled new and exciting at some point, but now, after a couple of decades of launch after launch after launch after launch, it all just seems tired and trite.


At first when I donned this perfume I was trying to rack my brain to figure out what Tainted Love was reminding me of. Then suddenly it dawned on me: virtually every average oriental mass market fragrance launched in recent history. Although the orchid might have come to the rescue, it is not strong enough to compete with the well-entrenched sandalwood and vanilla combination. White tea is very lightly scented, so no surprise that it did not save the day.


Needless to say, this perfume is not for me. But for those who seek out and wear sandalwood vanilla compositions, let me assure you that Tainted Love does not turn rank and stale, as many of the cheaply made cousins to this composition do. The price is also very reasonable, relative to some of the designer mainstream sandalwood vanilla perfumes. I would recommend Tainted Love for testing by those who enjoy wearing compositions along the lines of Christian Dior Addict.

Salient notes (from the bottle): dark vanilla bean, orchid, white tea, sandalwood




The names of the Fame and Fortune “roller parfums de cigarro” all have something of a gnostic ring to them: Truth, Yesterday, Chance, Tomorrow, Wisdom. I am sure that some cynical people will be criticizing this line for combining a couple of current fads, the cigar format (which I must say I myself have never understood), and the D&G Anthology-esque idea of numbers paired with Tarot card concepts. The creation process involved in the production of the Fame and Fortune perfumes is described in these terms:

Botanical extracts unearthed, crushed then distilled into this remarkably uncommon sensory experience.

We can generally count on Margot Elena for something “uncommon”, but how are these as perfumes?



TRUTH
This is basically a candied orange rind, gourmand perfume. Very sweet, and for gourmand lovers only. It is natural smelling, but it is not nearly so complex and compelling as, say, Hermès Elixir des Merveilles, which is my candied orange perfume of preference. I do like the scent of Truth, but it is too sweet for my taste in perfume. I'd almost rather eat it than wear it!


I should add that I was a bit disappointed with the longevity of this, my first perfume from the cigarro series. Bear in mind that the roller ball cylinders contain 10ml and go for nearly the same price as the 1oz and 2oz and 3.4oz bottles found in the Tokyo Milk, Tokyo Milk Dark Femme Fatale, and the Love & Toast line-ups. In fact, these Fame and Fortune “perfumes” cost about the same as the roller ball travel-sized formats of mainstream launches found at Sephora and major department stores such as Lord & Taylor or Saks ($24). Given the usually low cost of a 1oz or 2oz Tokyo Milk eau de parfum, I was half expecting these roller balls to contain higher concentration perfume. In fact, they wear more like eau de toilette on my skin. All of this suggests that we are paying a premium for the elaborate albeit cumbersome (see above...) packaging.

Salient notes (from label on test tube): blood orange, osmanthus, crushed cedar, and sugared vanilla




YESTERDAY
To my nose, this perfume primarily offers a somewhat odd combination of linden and old wood. It smells almost like wet, rotten wood for a few seconds, but then fortunately improves as it dries down. The linden is much stronger than the rose, and the whole composition becomes sweet, almost fruity as it dries down, making me suspect that there are perhaps some unnamed red or purple fruits lurking about. I am not smelling the ginger listed in the notes.


I would definitely characterize Yesterday as a fruity-floral perfume, in spite of the aged-wood opening and the marked linden note in the mid-stages. Eventually, the whole complex bottoms out in a reddish-purple fruity-floral scent. Not bad, but I can only recommend it to those who like fruity-floral perfumes.

Salient notes (from label on test tube): asuka rose, linden, ginger root, and aged wood


CHANCE
What I love about Chance is the opening brief blitz of bamboo and tea. Shortly thereafter, the fig marches up on stage and basically steals the karaoke mike for the rest of the night. Fig, woody fig, to be more precise, is without question the star of the show here. The musk is only a base, and the tea is relegated to the role of understudy by the drydown.


Fig perfumes are so popular now that I've managed to sniff about a dozen of them. Woody fig, fruity fig, green fig, dried fig, plus many permutations of the combination of those facets of fig in different proportions. I guess that, truth be told, I don't really like fig perfumes. This one smells as nice as they get, but I just am not wowed by them at all.


If you are an amateur of fig perfumes, you should try this one, because it smells natural and well-blended and certainly can hold its own against the stiff competition. But it is, in the end, yet another fig perfume in a very crowded corner of the grand olfactory map. At some point, I believe that the world of perfumery will awaken to the news that we have reached maximum fig saturation. Then we can look forward to new trends taking us far from land of figs and oud. Or perhaps we'll simply see fashion recycle, and the next New Big Thing will be the multilayered labyrinthine trajectory Old Lady floral aldehyde in all its perfumic glory!!!! On ne sait jamais...

Salient notes (from label on test tube): bamboo, tea leaves, fresh fig, white musk


TOMORROW
This unique composition, which combines marine and salt notes along with cypress and moss, strikes me as an olfactory neighbor of Arsenic, from the Femme Fatale collection. It's obviously the salt note which lies at the intersection of the two compositions, but the general feeling here, too, is completely unisex and very fresh. I am pleasantly surprised at how much I like this perfume because I've nearly never met a mainstream aquatic fragrance that I did not not like. (yes, that was a double negative!) These sorts of perfumes usually make me feel queasy and seasick (aptly enough), probably because the mainstream versions use some “smells like aquatic” synthetic component which simply conflicts with my physiology. As a result, I have grown very wary (and weary) of perfumes with the word water or blue in their name!


Tomorrow, which boasts “marine” notes, has demonstrated to me that I do not have a deep-seated aversion to the very idea of aquatic perfumes. It is just that some of them—and most of the mainstream versions I've tried—contain something which induces in me severe malaise. This “marine” perfume, in contrast, smells just like sea spray combined with driftwood and a greenishness which could be seaweed, though it's described by the house as cypress.


I would not want to wear this as a signature scent or as a part of my regular rotation, but now and then it could be a refreshing change from the typical citrus colognes which I reach for often in summertime. My suspicion is that lots of guys would like this one and certainly anyone who likes perfumes along the lines of Comptoir Sud Pacifique Aqua Motu, although I hasten to add that the marked musk is not present in Tomorrow. What I do not know is whether guys would appreciate the roller ball “purse friendly” format. Perhaps Margot (on peut tutoyer, n'est-ce pas?) will decide to release this creation in a regular bottle. I'm quite sure there would be takers!

Salient notes (from label on test tube): mineral salt, marine, cypress, white moss


WISDOM
This seems to me to be another fruity-floral composition, and I'm not sure what the mystery source of sweetness is. The good news is that the water lily note wears naturally, unlike the vast majority of mainstream perfumes claiming to feature that flower. I generally do not like water lily very much in perfume, but here it is likeable and does not smell artificial and chemically.


My understanding is that “Marge” eschews the use of all manner of nasty things included in the “sourced from a massive vat” mainstream perfumes more widely available. Wisdom appears to bear that truth out felicitously yet again on my skin. Yes, it smells vaguely watery and floral, but, no, it is not sickening at all. I am not at all sure that I detect any walnut whatsoever in this composition. Instead, I perceive something slightly sweet, like a water fruit of some sort. The musk is not at all sweaty here and barely detectable. Its sole role here seems to be to support the water lily.


All and all, Wisdom is a nice, simple, balanced composition. Nothing too exciting, but the roller parfum de cigarro might make a good small and inexpensive gift for someone who likes fruity-floral and somewhat aquatic floral fragrances. There are similar perfumes to this one in the Love & Toast collection, which come in fanciful 100ml bottles at a great price. So if you're looking for this sort of composition, you might give some of those a sniff as well.

Salient notes (from label on test tube): water lily, woods + moss, walnut, and winter musk



The Numbers Game

Although it's been quite some time now since I began my journey to the dark side of the Tokyo Milk line, I have unfortunately not made very much progress in deciphering the meaning of the numbers associated with these perfumes. So far, I have only deduced that 0 = Nothing = La Mort. Using the digits 10 for Everything & Nothing makes a lot of sense. And then of course there's my birthdate, 26, which hooks up quite nicely with Wisdom. Clearly I still have some distance to travel before arriving at anything I can claim to be 85 about these matters.

The good news is that I now have seven more data points to help me to deduce the solution to the numerological anagrammatic puzzle:


10 = Everything & Nothing
17 = Arsenic
18 = Chance
21 = Yesterday
26 = Wisdom
28 = Excess
32 = Crushed
45 = Bulletproof
62 = Tainted Love
68 = Tomorrow
83 = Bittersweet
85 = Truth
90 = La Vie La Mort

???
There is one more parfum de cigarro, which it was apparently my fate somehow to have missed, #79: Destiny, the notes of which are fresh cut ginger, honeysuckle, davana, and midnight jasmine. Hmm... sounds promising... Plus it's another data point!

I'll keep investigating on all fronts—but I'm not at all sure that I can keep up with Margot!!!!