Casino EDC by Novaya Zarya

Bergamot, Lavender, Basil, Sage, Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang, Moss, Verbena, Sandalwood.

After wearing Casino a few times, I naturally had Mrs. Aromi give me her take on what it is she smelled as I offered a fragrant hand her way. "Old soap" was her brief reply and just as quickly, she went back to watching the "Big Bang Theory". I can only guess that Sheldon Cooper would have given a similar, abbreviated opinion.

As for me, I get the soapy Lavender accord, but at least I don't find it "old" or of the caustic variety. Casino is EDC strength and its longevity is in keeping with that. I admit to liking the spicy-clean opening and also the fact that Casino has a thick quality to it during the top accord. This denseness diffuses rather quickly and transitions to a more spacious accord of lavender, soft spice and a subtle mixture of herb, fruit and orange.

After 15 minutes of heavy sprays, Casino shows its hole card and is exposed for the Eau de Cologne it really is. I suppose if I only owned a handful of fragrances and landed upon this one, only to find it had no longevity, I'd be disappointed. That said, I'm genuinely not disappointed nor impressed as I own many with nuclear longevity if that's what I'm hankering for on any particular day.

Casino evolves into a skin scent within 20 minutes that consists of soapy Lavender, mild Jasmine, Ylang and residual citrus. I will find occasion to wear Casino due to my work environment and need to wear a variety of different aromas. For as economical as it is, it provides minimal enjoyment that's commensurate with its price point. Sillage is very moderate with longevity approximately 3 hours with most as a personal space scent. Neutral rating from Aromi due to performance and lack of creativity. As always, a sample wear is highly recommended in spite of this costing peanuts.

C'Est Moi by Etienne Aigner

Green Notes, Peony, Wild Berries, Tuberose, Orchid, Wood Notes, Musk.

It doesn't take but about 2 minutes to notice the woodiness of this 1983 feminine from Etienne Aigner. Classified as a fresh-floral, I believe that is a misnomer. This should be a floral-woody if anything. The woods I'm experiencing are more than likely cedarwood oil. It's reminiscent of that note I relive, time and time again, in numerous classic masculines. It's extroverted and has a vitality that contemporary renditions of woods do not. I'm not saying superior, but I am saying noticeably different. Personally, I like all implementations of the note, regardless of release date. The woods in C'Est Moi are more indicative of the times......and it's good. It makes C'Est Moi lean a bit masculine if you ask me, but others may disagree. I could wear this in public and pull it off, although I'd have to be careful of how much I'd apply. This has some kick to it.

Perhaps time has aged the mini I own and has caused the floral notes to become subdued. I have no way of knowing for certain since I cannot go back in time and smell this immediately after release. Regardless, I'm persuaded to believe that even then, the woods would have become incrementally pronounced by the time the base and drydown stages arrived. In the now however, the woods are realized almost immediately.

The opening of C'Est Moi is woods augmented with what I decipher ( or should I say throw an educated guess your way....) as subdued rose, green stem, spice and either carnation or geranium. It's a dense rendition and difficult to pick out individual notes. As a whole, that is what it smells like to me. The Cedar Oil smells front and center with the floral, fruit and green notes as accentuating characters. The longer the wearings ensue, the more masculine C'Est Moi transforms on my skin. This is some butch juice for sure.

If Chuck Norris had a wife ( that he didn't kill with years of accumulated roundhouse kicks to the head), C'Est Moi may have been a good choice for her to wear. Hell, for all I know, Chuck may have taken it from her by force and wore it himself.

Sillage is good, but not room clearing. The fullness of this scent however, is something you do not want to overdo. It possesses that heavy, swirl factor that can envelope you like a blanket. Thumbs up from Aromi for Etienne Aigner's C'Est Moi and a strong recommendation to sample before ever purchasing this scent.

Martinique by Tommy Bahama

Bergamot, Pepper, Lavender, Musk, Woods.

Having already reviewed St. Barts, I am compelled to bring it up due to the similarities both of these fragrances exhibit. They have the same genetic makeup with a mild tweak here and there.

Martinique is St. Barts with a more peppery flavor and slightly heavier wear. For me to own both ( and I do ) is a redundancy owed primarily to both being priced so low that I could not stop myself from adding it to my cart at the local TJMAXX. Am I disappointed? No, I'm not because as similar as they are, they'll both get worn in the spring and summer months.

While doing a side by side, I noticed that by the time the heart accord commences, Martinique is a tad denser. Maybe even more accurate would be to say that St. Barts is a bit brighter. To be honest, I'm splitting hairs and what I notice most in this transition is the spice in Martinique.

The real differences between these two are the pepper rendition in Martinique and that by base and drydown stages, Martinique possesses a more musky-wood than St. Barts, with its aquatic-musk finish. These subtle differences are only apparent to me wearing both at once, so it boils down to actually choosing just one of them and calling it good. They both smell good, are innocuous and tuned for politeness. Obviously, they were intended for spring and summer wear, but as we know, frags like these perform all year round very effectively. Sillage is moderate with longevity approximately 3 to 4 hours on my skin. Thumbs up from Aromi for Tommy Bahama's Martinique and as you would expect, a sample wear is recommended before purchase.

Kuznetsky Most by Novaya Zarya ( Henry Brokar )

Grapefruit, Lemon, Blackcurrant, Cinnamon, Pineapple, Cedar, Musk.

Not long ago, I won three bottles of Novaya Zarya Colognes at auction. They were dirt cheap and between 90 to 100ml bottles. One of them was this Eau de Toilette bottle of Kuznetsky Most. The other two were "Crazy Rain" and "Casino".

I've had occasion to wear all three for full wearings and have to say that they've kind of grown on me. No, they're not sleepers that anyone needs to go hunting down, but they're a bit more enjoyable than I had anticipated them to be. For the price point and functionality ( work rotation frags ), they get the job done and are understated. These Russian masculines are just as good or possibly superior to, some of the better known el cheapos I own from the past.

At any rate, they are at least as wearable as other economical frags I have and they aren't boisterous. There's nothing worse than a drugstore type fragrance with ultra presence. They tend to be shrill and screetchy and to me, that's where those have gone wrong. I don't want the ability to detect all imperfections from 50 feet away. Flaws are acceptable in almost anything since that's just a part of life. In a fragrance, I'd prefer inherent shortcomings to be tuned and blended accordingly; this way ensuring its best foot is put forward.

Kuznetsky Most is assuredly flawed. It's also tuned politely so the imperfections aren't flaunted. It's pleasant enough and a casual aroma as well. It opens with a surprisingly nice rendition of sharp citrus, mild pepper, woods and wintry spice. This accord lasts about 5 minutes on my skin and is the best part of the wearings. It's a vibrant and uncomplicated greeting that I only wish stayed around longer.

The transition from top to heart and beyond is the appearance of a rather dense accord reminiscent of fruit and musk combined. There's a wood quality in this mix as well, but it only accents the slowly dominating musk rendition. The fruit, while not exactly a terrific facsimile of pineapple, is acceptable and gives way to the musk, by the time drydown commences.

Sillage is moderate with longevity approximately 3 to 4 hours on my skin with heavier sprays. A positive-neutral rating from Aromi for Novaya Zarya's "Kuznetsky Most" and a strong suggestion to sample before purchase.

Secret EDP by Marilyn Miglin

Melon, Clementines, Rosewood, Grapefruit.
White Peach, Bulgarian Rose, Ylang-Ylang, Honeysuckle.
Amber, Heliotrope, Violet Woods.

My apologies for the lackluster image. I had to pilfer it from an auction listing since I couldn't find an adequate one. I have a mini and my own pic doesn't look much better, so this one will have to suffice. I can say however, that the fragrance is a surprisingly good fruity floral and extremely feminine.

Secret is rather strong and empowering, but doesn't develop a crassness that I experience sometimes when I apply something deliberately heavy. I'll occasionally do that with Eau de Parfums to see if there's a shrill aspect to the wearing, but Secret stops short of that.

This blankets my skin already developed and stays that way until long into the drydown phase. Peach, Ylang, dusty Rose and Honeysuckle are front and center on my skin and perhaps other notes will be more prevalent on you than I. The Heliotrope lends a subtle, spicy quality while the others reinforce an already extremely floral experience. The fruit notes are tuned very nicely, giving balance and contrast. They don't go overboard with sweetness either. Secret, on its own, is a very rich scent and manages to stop short of possessing too much of a good thing. It only takes a few, strategically placed sprays of this to get the job done.

It's not until well into the wearings that any semblance of wood appears and that is neither here nor there. Secret is all about fruit accented florals and it makes no apologies. If you think you'd like Ylang, soft Rose, Honeysuckle and Heliotrope all rolled up in some slightly powdery peach, this particular Miglin may just surprise you.

I know of no man who could successfully pull this one off, but I've been wrong many times in the past. I'm on the daring side when it comes to scent, but in spite of liking this, I wouldn't attempt it. I'd prefer to smell a few deft sprays of this on the feminine persuasion. Sillage is good and longevity is 8 hours plus on me. Thumbs up from Aromi for Marilyn Miglin's Secret and as always, don't take my word for anything. Sample this yourself in lieu of blind purchase.

Unleaded for Men by Donna Karan

Tobacco, Basil, Sage, Cardamom, Leather.

Recently, I was able to acquire a vintage bottle of this ( 100ml.) at around 50% full. It's completely intact and apparently was well cared for. When this was released in the mid 1990's, I never got around to trying it. Once Lauder took over, it was discontinued along with others. After wearing this since it arrived, this would have been a nice addition to the spring and summer arsenal as it wears "light", yet implements notes that are normally found in heavier fragrances.

Called a "Bracing Spray", I'm not really sure I concur, but then again, what exactly is a bracing spray anyway ? This wears much longer than drugstore bracers from the 1960's I assure you. This is different from the masculine release of a year prior. Unleaded doesn't possess the presence of its older brother, but it definitely has merit. It's a little more refined and a bit less macho.

The opening is very smooth to my sensibilities. It's aromatic, but extremely low key and embodies a sweet, balsamic nature. There's warmth to this top accord and it's undoubtedly my favorite part of the wearing. The implemented spices give the Cardamom a boost, but this entire fragrance is tuned to smell full at close range. To me, Unleaded is the epitome of a personal space scent. This is yet another reason why I believe it would perform well in the warmer months. The blending is truly to my satisfaction and whether or not you concur, that could only be judged by you yourselves giving this a whirl.

The tobacco that permeates the entire life of the scent is drier and not of the smoky variety to my nose. It's at the core of Unleaded and in conjunction with the Cardamom, lends the warmth I mentioned earlier. Everything about this masculine is comforting and pleasant, unless you're hoping for a powerful fragrance that makes a bold statement.

Full bodied and well mannered, this succeeds where other spicy and aromatic tabacs have fallen a bit short. There's just the correct amount of sweetness present in all the transitions to compliment the totality of Unleaded. The leather also isn't a conventional rendition, nor could I say it smells like suede. I suppose the closest I can come is to say that there's the suggestion of leather inherent from the heart accord onward. It's supple like the rest of the players, so it's in keeping with the character of Unleaded. Sillage is modest but full and longevity is approximately 4 hours on me. Thumbs up from Aromi and as always, a sample wear is recommended.

L'Homme Sage by Parfums Divine

Saffron, Mandarin, Cardamom, Lychee, Balm, Aromatic Woods, Immortelle, Patchouli, Oak, Moss, Amber, Incense.

I've reviewed this fragrance before, but since I can't retrieve it and the fact that I like it better this time around, I shall go another round with L'Homme Sage by Parfums Divine.

Overall, this masculine really doesn't break any new ground ( aroma-wise ) and it does possess similarities to a few others that implement similar note progressions. It does however embody clean spice and an impressive longevity factor. You will be able to smell this 24 hours later with no problem as an enjoyable skin scent. There's a balsamic powder quality that can possibly be misconstrued as something other than perfume. I'm referring to certain talc, lotion or even antiperspirant. I suppose it leans innocuously clean.

L'Homme Sage opens with a smooth blast of camphor infused Saffron and Cardamom. This is balsamic, spicy, aromatic and it already possesses an underlying theme of powder on my skin. It has a nice shimmer to it that lasts the first few minutes and I find that aspect very enjoyable.

The top and heart accords seem one and the same each time I wear this. They last a long time as well, before dissipating into the base and drydown stages. As much note interaction as there is, this all comes to fruition smelling very uncomplicated and linear. That's not a knock, just an observation.

Once the base rolls around, a more earthy and woody tone insert themselves into what already is. This transition is very smooth and almost goes unnoticed. The totality of L'Homme is rather rich, but never suffocating. The Immortelle is well done and affords me a subtle tea-like herbaceousness during this stage of the wearings.

So, what can we say then about L'Homme Sage? Personally, I find this a nice scent that performs well in the cool to cold temps. It also wears like a more mature fragrance. I find nothing frivolous here and nothing spectacular either. It is what it is.....and this is one of those that has to be worn to make sure it fits.....or not.....

Sillage is good with longevity exceeding my expectations. Positive-Neutral rating from Aromi for Parfums Divine's L'Homme Sage due to price point and linearity. A strong suggestion to sample before purchase is recommended.

Alyssa Ashley Musk EDP Extreme

Citrus, Jasmine, Musk, Rose, Carnation, Coumarin, Amber, Vanilla, Orris Root.

I suppose the first things I noticed after applying Musk Extreme was that it immediately performed like a conventional Eau de Toilette and it possessed a slight hairspray accord. Does that mean it was an instantaneous deal breaker?  No, it wasn't off putting because the hairspray aura wasn't sharp like some can be, yet is it evident.

Am I saying that I like it? I can't say that I do, but I don't hate it. I have a few fragrances by Alyssa Ashley that I wear, but this particular one leans far too feminine for me and it's also one I cannot generate any love for. It goes on oily as well, so expect some topical residue for awhile. This may well be one that interacts better with some sort of base, but I have neither the time or inclination to experiment.

When I wear "musk", I guess I expect a sensuality to be present or at least some type of animalic aspect augmenting the surrounding notes. Unfortunately, I don't realize that with Musk Extreme. There's a warm, herbaceous and spicy quality present, along with some sharper, floral elements that create the hairspray comparison. I cannot help but mentally correlate the aroma to "drugstore".

Normally, I enjoy breaking a scent down to explain what notes are doing what for me as I wear it. I won't do that here since the above is basically what I experience through the life of the scent, with the exception of a mild vanilla peeking through in the base and beyond. Sillage is average with longevity approximately 4 hours on my skin with heavy sprays. It does last longer as a skin scent. Neutral rating from Aromi for Alyssa Ashley's Musk Extreme and as always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Handsome by Tova Borgnine ( Beverly Hills )

Lime, Citrus, Green Notes
Orange Blossom, Lavender
Amber, Cedar, Oakmoss, Musk, Sandalwood, Tobacco, Vanilla

Did you ever get the feeling you smelled something before, but can't put your finger on it exactly? Handsome by Tova has given me that feeling, yet I cannot recall what fragrance it is that it's reminiscent of. If I smelled this blindfolded with no idea who made it or when, I would have taken a stab and said it was a Caron.

Now, whether I'm way off base saying that or not, this fragrance isn't anywhere near as inferior as I was led to believe from reviews I've read. I find it more interesting than the much favored Tova Cologne for Men I just reviewed. The ratio of Lavender and Vanilla is giving me that Caron reference, but others may disagree with me and that's okay. I'm already on record stating I'm not a big fan of certain Caron masculines, but I'm enjoying Handsome for Men. Go figure........

The manner in which Handsome opens is on the subdued side. On me, it's restrained but I can immediately detect citrus, lavender-vanilla and the suggestion of tobacco underneath it all. The notes are blended in such a way as to emit a denseness without volume. This is one of those fragrances that I get more acclimated to with each wearing. The "tobacco" rendition is actually one I like as it's subtle and implemented as an accent. It's also not of the smoky variety. It augments the lavender-vanilla nicely.

Now, is Handsome a sleeper or at a least very interesting acquisition? I wouldn't recommend anyone going out of their way or paying a good bit of money for it, but if you can get a bottle for a great price, then I would say it would be worth it. Sometimes, certain fragrances develop a sort of cult status due to limited written opinions and scarcity. I'm ( more often than not ) disappointed when I finally come across one of "those". They never seem to live up to the reputation.

Neither of the Tova masculines are worth the money commanded on auction sites. Yet, both are pretty good in their right. It's not their fault sellers have inflated their worth due to erroneous quality and availability. Sillage is very moderate with Handsome while longevity is approximately 3 to 4 hours on me before I'd consider reapplying. Thumbs up for Tova's Handsome for Men from Aromi with the strong suggestion to sample either one of these in lieu of purchase.

Tova Cologne for Men ( Beverly Hills )

Bergamot, Lemon, Orange Blossom, Jasmine, Spices, Musk.

For years now, I've periodically come across reviews of how this particular Tova release was rather exceptional, while its counterpart "Handsome for Men" wasn't so good. My calling Handsome for Men a counterpart is probably erroneous, but it's these two that get any attention at all, as far as masculine creations from Tova Borgnine go.

Recently, I picked up both in the same purchase. The box included a 100ml. bottle of each. I have to say that the bottles themselves are on the cheap side, as are the sprayers. That aside, I've worn both now and decided to review the more popular one first. The reviewers were correct in describing the alpha lemon note.

Two things struck me while pondering the lemon rendition in Tova Cologne for Men. It has an overall denseness not apparent in transparent interpretations. This is thick and heavy, but not overbearing. The aroma also reminds me of the extract variety used in cooking. That also isn't meant as derogatory. I like the smell of extract and use it often enough. This lemon is of the concentrated variety and completely different than the more lucid and fleeting renditions found in most fragrances.

There is more than just Lemon existing from the initial spray, but they just accent the star player. The accord listing above seems a bit anemic and it's what I could find, although it's not misleading. The Orange is nicely done and seems to lend the Lemon note some gravity.

What I do perceive during different parts of the heart and base accords are mild versions of nutmeg, pepper and orris. There's also an undercurrent of wood in the mix, but I don't even notice it until the drydown has commenced.

The Lemon really does get top billing here, but I admit to finding this a bit on the uninteresting side and a tad disappointed in the longevity department. I like it, but don't love it. I also must say that I wear numerous fragrances regularly that I don't "love". They simply wear well and are versatile to warrant my reaching for it as much as I do. Sillage is acceptable with longevity approximately 3 hours on me before reapplying. Tova Cologne for Men still deserves a thumbs up simply because it has done nothing to deserve a thumbs down............and leans better than neutral. My biggest "beef" ( if I can call it that ) is that it fails to inspire me in any fashion. As I usually do, permit me to recommend a sample wearing if at all possible in lieu of purchase.

Jordan by Michael Jordan

Mandarin, White Ivy, Bergamot, Bitter Orange, Sage.
White Nutmeg, Black Pepper, Jasmine, Cardamom.
Musk, Sandalwood, Hardwood.

Slowly but surely, I seem to be accumulating the Michael Jordan line of fragrances. It's not by design, but rather an economical opportunity when I land in a TJ Maxx or Ross. Most have been a pleasant surprise and while they're not great by any stretch, this is yet another that works fairly well as a work frag that you can spray with abandon and not worry about it. Well, maybe not with abandon as that would be inconsiderate, but this one can be applied heavier than normal and still be tight.

This hit the shelves in the year 2000 and possesses that commonality inherent in aquatic/ozonic/marine fragrances targeted toward the youthful male segment. Yes, it's marketing and yes, the suits and ties do it to death. There are some of these releases however that find a way to rise above the intentions and accomplish a little something. They succeed, not so much as a good fragrance, but by not being as tedious or banal when compared to the rest of the pack.

I know that's not much of a compliment or even incentive to buy, but Jordan is a decent choice, considering the price point, if one is looking for a spicy, pseudo aquatic that evolves into the predictable, but acceptable musky woods we have come to expect. It's a bit mundane, but still a pleasant, if uneventful wear. A rather nice choice if you want to smell nice, a bit spicy and don't want to turn heads. This works well in the office or other close quarter situations.

Now, do I like to wear Jordan? Yes, I do and I also enjoy the casualness of it in general. This isn't frivolous, exciting, serious, happy or bold. It just is. I should mention that, to me, there's versatility in a scent such as this. There's no statement to be made here except to smell a bit better than you would if you chose to wear nothing at all.

Sillage is average and longevity is approximately 3-4 hours on my skin before I reapply. As innocuous as Jordan really is, a thumbs up from Aromi is warranted just because. As always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Burberrys for Men Original ( Flask Bottle )

Normally, I'll write out the listed notes at the top of the review because one should do that if at all possible. In the case of the Original Burberrys for Men, I cannot because the information is too sketchy and seemingly intertwined with the "other" Burberrys for Men. They aren't the same fragrance inside different bottles, hence my leaving it all to educated guessing and a dash of experience.

This image is one I copied from an ebay seller's listing. The seller's name is superalx. I've used it because it's the best picture I have come across displaying the flask-type bottle and the best thing is, it's immediately behind the Burberrys for Men I've already reviewed. It's these 2 releases that cause the confusion. I own a 30ml. flask splash bottle ( background ) and a 50ml. ribbed bottle as shown in front. They are different fragrances, but both classically constructed and masculine.

The flask bottle in the background is what I want to evaluate and describe. I have had a difficult time attempting to review this fragrance for a few reasons. Already having reviewed its counterpart, I find it a less appealing and not as interesting a wear.
There's also an aspect I can only describe as subtle mustard that is inherent. I experience it each time I apply this scent and it usually rears its head during the heart and base stage. I find it distracting, but not necessarily annoying.

The gist of this Burberrys for Men is a mild and fleeting Citrus, Carnation, Leather, Cedar, Sandal, Patchouli and Vetiver. To be fair, my splash bottle may be a little "off" due to age and it being a splash to begin with. However, its outward condition and color is outstanding as is its box and the information/envelope contents inside. The previous owner kept this aesthetically pristine, so its doubtful they would have left it in light and heat. Then again, who the hell knows for sure........

All that aside, the Carnation in this Burberrys is front and center.
This is reminiscent of many masculines circa mid to late 70's. The feel of it is dark and a bit serious, but not somber. I cannot help but think this was the most overused note in masculine perfumery back then. It's immediately identifiable and has a propensity for coming to the fore and staying there.

I suppose it is sounding like I have no love for this release. Well, part of me likes it because I grew up in that era, but I guess a bigger part of me is enjoying different aromas, styles and approaches to creating than is evident here. Had this release revealed a transitional nature and a few exciting facets, my opinion would be swayed to tell you "Yes !!!! This is worth adding to your collection". Unfortunately, I'm unmoved and wearing Burberrys for Men Cologne has built no rapport. Sillage is moderate with longevity approximately 4 hours before morphing into a close scent. Neutral rating from Aromi and a sample wear is highly recommended in lieu of purchase.

Patchouli Nobile by Nobile 1942

Lemon, Incense, Pepper, Jasmine, Labdanum, Patchouli, Cedar, Guaiac, Sandalwood, Oakmoss, Tonka Bean.

Patchouli is a love-it or deal breaking note to many enthusiasts. It's earthiness and connection to bygone days is simply unpleasant to the folks who eschew it and a reason to love it for those who do.

I suppose my perception of a smooth patchouli can be found in a few Reminiscence releases, with the more bold and unadulterated renditions readily available in numerous others. Naturally, there are houses other than Reminiscence that create upscale patch perfumes, but the majority showcase a more stripped down and in your face version of the note. Patchouli Nobile leans more toward upscale than it does anything else and its presence has been tuned to display a more conservative stance.

What tempers the note best for me and directs a patch dominant scent from rugged to refined is the addition of Labdanum and spicy smoke. The success is in the ratio of these players augmenting the patchouli note. Right out of the bottle, Patchouli Nobile has the potential to be just another middle of the road patch release. What you get is a blast of alcoholic patchouli accented with mild spice and hard to perceive citrus. You also cannot know from the first few minutes that the overall volume dissipates to a conservative level within 5 minutes.

Patchouli Nobile begins to display its more elegant, genetic footprint once 10 minutes has elapsed. Labdanum, subtle smokiness and woods quietly make their entrance. They remain for the life of the wearing and reign in the coarseness that an all-patchouli fragrance sometimes exhibits. This is uncomplicated, very wearable and evolves a nice sensuality once the heart and base accord get involved.

Patchouli, for all its connotations, is an extremely versatile note in the hands of a parfumeur. It's included in most perfumes to some degree and it's one I've always liked when blended correctly with others that I'm fond of. Patchouli Nobile succeeds because it recruits the help of other, very pleasant notes. It succeeds because it morphs into an earthy and sexy aroma that can be worn by either gender. Lastly, it succeeds because it is blended and tuned for contemporary sensibilities.

Sillage is average, yet longevity is very good, affording the wearer 3-4 hours of vitality before morphing into a personal space scent. Thumbs up from Aromi for Patchouli Nobile and as always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Ambre Dore by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier

Clary Sage, Geranium, Storax.
Ambergris, Coriander, Oud, Saffron.
Myrrh, Sandalwood, Vetiver.

Recently, I was thinking of revising my review of Ambre Precieux by this house. I like updating them because my taste has evolved, with some of my past reviews being rather blunt and not descriptive enough for my own liking. I ended up buying a bottle of Ambre Dore instead and since they are siblings, I've concluded the AP review is unnecessary at this time.

Personally, I like Ambre Dore best out of the two. There's no sense in my comparing sillage and longevity because that would amount to splitting hairs. Both are very acceptable, so I'll leave it at that. Ambre Dore seperates itself during the first half of the wearings due to a resinous, feral quality. This comes about because the combination of Ambergris and Oud dictate that it does. It borders on skank, but not the repulsive variety. There's smoke in this brew once the heart accord commences and this is where it can be appreciated.

Ambre Dore, from the initial spray, is balsamic. I've read reviews that this is nothing more than Ambre Precieux with Oud thrown in. I disagree, but that's simply my opinion. The ratio of resins, smoke, woods and earth tones distinguish these as two separate entities. Yes, there are similarities and yes, they are no doubt siblings. Those who thoroughly enjoy AP however may not like wearing Ambre Dore.

There's the skank appeal here that some will love and others will eschew. The Clary Sage emphasizes the implementation of Amber and succeeds in keeping this sweet, but not overtly so. You will experience numerous, distinctive aromas wearing Ambre Dore and I guess that's the exclamation point for this aficionado.

Sillage and longevity are very good, so a definitive thumbs up from Aromi for MPG's foray into the oud arena. As always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Chrome Legend by Azzaro

Tea, Green Apple, Bitter Orange, Musk, Moss, Cedar, Vetiver, Amber, Tonka Bean.

I suppose what's most surprising to me about Chrome Legend is its presence and lasting power. Normally, this genre of fragrance doesn't last but a moderate amount of time on my skin. This however is of the stronger variety and that's an asset because Chrome Legend smells nice. What good does sillage and longevity afford oneself if the totality of the wear is indifference or unpleasant? As usually is the case, reviews already written run the gamut. My perception of Azzaro's creation is a scent that's slightly aromatic with accents of fruit, earth and woods, enveloped in an aquatic vibe.

The renditions of Apple and Orange aren't the most realistic, but so what? They're enjoyable and smell more like peel than the pulp or flesh of either. For the price I paid for a bottle, it's a win-win situation. The overall aroma is an aquatic-aromatic that hints at fruit without being fruity.

It's a fact that this class of masculine has been done to death and back again. Chrome Legend stays truer to its calling than most. While employing the expected and contemporary musk-cedar component evident in numerous drydowns, it somehow doesn't lose me like most others. It still smells viable hours later.

Chrome Legend is far from great, but is good enough. For the price one can pick a bottle up for at the Maxx, it's a no brainer for those needing a modern, fresh scent that exudes crispness. Thumbs up from Aromi for Chrome Legend by Azzaro. As always, a sample wear is recommended.

Blue North Pour Homme by Michael Germain

Bergamot, Verbena, Coriander, Sage, Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Saffron, Sandalwood, Cedar, Amber, Musk.

The few reviews found on this particular release ( and I mean a FEW) didn't exactly inspire me to try this. What propelled me to purchase it was the whopping $7 NIB price tag for a 100ml. bottle. I own a few other Germain releases, and while not "go to" fragrances, they have relevance; especially for their price point. My initial reaction to applying Blue North PH was that it reminded me of the ever expanding Nautica line. I could hit you over the head with the worn out terms of "Innocuous and Generic". I'll refrain, in spite of them being appropriate.

On the flip side of "Uninspiring" and even longevity-deficient, I actually enjoy the aroma of Blue North PH. Yes, the blending of notes is muddied, but I do experience ambiguous renditions of lemon-orange in the top. Also present is what I perceive as woods, subtle fruit and a low key aromatic quality in the first few minutes.

The heart and base seem to be one and the same. Once the opening dissipates, a contemporary and inoffensive woody musk digs in and has no intention on vacating the premises. There's a herbal element attached to this accord that accents the outro of this fragrance. All in all, not bad for the peanuts I paid for it and I also can't imagine this scent being inappropriate for any venue.

Sillage is very moderate with longevity approximately 2 hours on me before needing reapplication. Neutral rating from Aromi for Michel Germain's Blue North Pour Homme and as always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Aviance Cologne by Prince Matchabelli

Aldehydes, Bergamot, Green Notes.
Orris Root, Jasmine, Muguet, Rose.
Moss, Musk, Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, Vetiver.

This particular aldehydic-floral took some getting used to on my part. Not that this is a precise comparison, but you know how we, as human beings, have to gaze upon a car wreck even though the images will be unpleasant? Aviance has that effect on me.

I genuinely don't experience pleasantness, but I continue to sniff from either an instantaneous addiction or an unexplained need for pain. There's a waxiness to the combination of Aldehydes and Musk that's almost akin to a scent possessing high cholesterol. I know that sounds nuts and yet it's this, in combination with the "drugstore-cologne" vibe, that gives me a hard time.

It's only after a few hours have elapsed that I begin to appreciate what it is I'm smelling. The "girth" has calmed down a few notches and soft, earth tones along with Lily and Jasmine come alive. The drugstore vibe has lessened significantly, which signals a marked improvement.

Woods, Moss and Musk segue into the drydown stage, affording the wearer yet another facet of vintage compositions and blending. That waxy, cholesterol quality is still evident on my skin even now, but it has either morphed into something superior or I'm simply becoming acclimated to an aroma I initially found unpalatable. At any rate, Aviance is not your typical, ultra-feminine scent. It's assuredly assertive and floral, yet has a masculine aspect to it.

Sillage is good with longevity approximately 7 hours on my skin and more with extended drydown. Neutral rating from Aromi for Prince Matchabelli's Aviance with a strong recommendation to sample before purchasing.

Keiko Mecheri Musc ( old packaging )

Iris, Jasmine, Amber, Crystal Musk, Sandalwood.

I'm a fan of Keiko Mecheri's deft touch. That seems to be her signature and I deem her to be extremely talented. Her rendition of Musc has me undecided however and I've been in this state for quite some time. I own a bottle of this and while it possesses all the markers of subtlety and understated elegance, it lacks some important factors as well.

I suppose that intangible quality that permits any fragrance to exist in the arena of interesting or even quirky is AWOL here. Perhaps bland would be a more appropriate description, yet Musc still has its redeeming qualities. It's low key and pleasant personality is just what the doctor ordered for some and simply not enough for others.

Keiko Mecheri Musc opens with a genuinely transparent layer of Iris, Jasmine and Woods. The first few minutes of close-to-the-body sprays seems to work best on me. It surely has more heft applying it this way and those three players are predominant while being underscored by an incremental Musc.

Regardless of notes that aren't listed in the accords, what is listed is accurate to me. Musc is as linear as it would appear and the transition I experience is presence and volume dissipating as time lapses. On one hand, this fragrance is polite and smells pleasant enough. On the other hand, it never grabs my attention on any level and seems best suited for those who want to wear scent while going unnoticed. It can be worn by either gender, so it may perform well for those who lean toward versatile and soft.

Sillage is moderate with longevity approximately 4 hours on me. Half of that is a skin scent. Neutral rating from Aromi for one of my favorite perfumers and her rendition of Musc. As always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Four by Nejma

Tame Oud ...

It has taken me a few wears to come to grips with Four. I loved it from the very first time I sprayed it, but it's not what one might expect from an Oud-centric house. This is something that I am going to enjoy wearing during the day in the tropics, where I work.

The fresh, opening blast that Four presents is HEAVILY laced with an intense Peach note which worries me every time I spray it, considering that fruit in frags is not my favorite thing. Luckily, it doesn't stick around for long, morphing for some reason into a bubblegum like smell. When I was a kid I used to stuff my mouth with bubblegum called Whacky Wicks … this also short-lived phase of Four brings back fond memories of that … slightly minty, winter-greenish and pink!!

Once the flowers take over, Four comes into its own and is a delight on the skin. This fragrance feels like a classic early 90's creation while remaining completely valid in the (not so) new millennium. Narcissus lovers in particular will really enjoy Four, while I love it because the florals here remain fresh and sparkling for the duration.

This is NOT an Oud heavy fragrance by any means. It surely is present, but in minuscule amounts and it's great to see that Oud can be used in a frag without overwhelming it and becoming the star attraction. Here, the Oud provides a powdery-ness that could not have been achieved by the Sandalwood alone. In fact, the delicious woodiness of the dry down is simply touched by Labdanum and Patchouli … further inveigling Four of a retro feel.

Sillage here is wonderful radiating about a foot, while the longevity can be sorted out with a good over spray! I recommend Nejma Four for those who like tame Oud coupled with flowers… and who hanker after something modern that recalls the floral delight of a time before the 'freshies' took over!