Il Mondo di Odore

Hhhhmmmmm.......This begins extremely good and I have a difficult time believing  the real Calamity Jane ( aka Marthy Jane Canary ) ever smelled this nice. From the images I googled of her, quite possibly vintage Parfum d' Habit or Kouros  would be more appropriate. Okay.......I'm being an ass, but this really does have a very enjoyable opening accord. LS has Calamity J listed as unisex and advertised as a masculine fragrance dedicated to women. I find it leans more feminine than anything, but the question is would I wear it? Let's see........... The initial impression of the scent is a sheer, woody patchouli note. This opening is my favorite part of the wearings. Once that subsides, a rising iris and amber duo inherit Calmity J like a hole filling slowly with water. The emphasis is on the iris and it soon turns powdery. The amber is still present and accounted for, but plays second fiddle. The vanilla note doesn't sit idly by for any length of time. Just when I...

Here's another recent discovery. Nico Uytterhaegen is a mysterious Belgian designer specializing in avanguardist leather goods and jewelery. He recently introduced, on the market, a new line of fragrances called NONONSENSE . The line strikes me as incredibly inscrutable and obscure with handcrafted bottles produced in extremely limited quantities and wrapped in a black leather wallet. They're available as 50ml in EDT strength. Here are descriptions and pictures directly from the brand. I report them exactly how they wrote them... NONONSENSE 1 A fragrance with a very strong nature. This eau de toilette represents the perfect combination of 100% pure essential oils such as eucalyptus, laurel, geranium, ylang-ylang, patchouli and vetiver. The scent is as fresh and vivacious as vbrant and exotic. NONONSENSE 2 On a first contact this eau de toilette takes you through woods, spices and rosewood directly followed by vetiver, benzoë, laurel and rosemary. Th...

I find it very difficult to believe that excellent perfumes could also be very inexpensive. Yes, I know of quirky examples here and there, but in general, I'm more apt to believe that an inexpensive perfume is also cheap, not only in the monetary sense, but also in its composition and overall integrity. I suspect that the ingredients cost little, and furthermore that little effort was put into its creation. All of this leads me to approach houses which ask only modest sums for their wares with some caution and skepticism—and naturally low expectations. At the same time, I expect a very expensive perfume to be really very special and find myself disappointed when it is not. If what I perceive to be a cheap-quality perfume carries a high price, I feel on some level that there is a form of swindle taking place, that the price was simply another part of the hype used to market the perfume. I am not sure whether any of this affects my evaluations or not. Am I so relieved that I overreac...

When I first sampled Amir by Tonatto, I left it on for awhile and then washed it off by choice. I fully intended on getting back to it since I truly thought the old sniffer was "off" that night. The second wearing days later produced the same aroma and results. If I didn't know better, what I'm smelling is a Jovan masculine from the late 1960's or early 1970's. I'm really disappointed with Amir. This has a cologne vibe throughout and periodically I get whiffs of Jovan's Sex Appeal. Really? Truth be told, I like certain bargain fragrances, but I'm sure not looking for it in an EDP Niche fragrance. Amir comes off as a drugstore fragrance. Like most of you, when I sample parfums, I'm anticipating creativity, maybe a little daring and certainly much more than what I'm getting here. What's the most disappointing is the fact that Amir doesn't smell quite as good as some of the vintage Jovans. I'm not try to blast Laura Tonatto b...

Great Jones by Bond No.9 is a big, badass retro scent. This is a nod to 1980's era Versace ( and possibly a handful of others ) with the volume and longevity amped up two-fold. Great Jones opens with a very loud and sharp orange note. Being sharp doesn't make it unpleasant and in fact, it's really good. It's almost tangible due to its size and you can literally taste this in your mouth. I can see Fabio wearing this fragrance no problem. The orange opening is exaggerated and on the intense side. There aren't many other players in the mix other than wood and moss. The orange is no doubt the alpha note here. Being as linear as this is, I don't find it boring or monotonous. It's not something I would reach for on a regular basis, but it would fit well in my wardrobe as a rotational spring-summer scent. The cedar in Great Jones is positioned right behind the orange, while the moss is directly behind the wood. You can smell the evolution even though it's...

Okay......let's peruse through some of the remarks on this particular scent. I've been reading them for years and have put off smelling this because of them. I'm not one who runs to smell something described as rigor mortis of the taint. This is deliciously naughty. Someone who smelled it on a tissue said it smelled like poo. Maybe just a hint but mixed in with so many other things, it doesn't matter.   If ever there were a scent that smelled like Bigfoot's penis, this would be IT. OK....Tried it once, read the reviews, decided to go back in all fairness and try it again before giving everybody a bad day...so, don't say I didn't try...I love sex just as much, or probably more, than the next guy...I mean that really dirty sex, piggy sex, get down and withit sex...in August-no-airconditioning-and- about-four-hours-into-a-marathon-stay-at-home-afternoon-and-on-the-third-go-around kind of sex, sex...so when I say something is skanky, nasty, nothin I woul...

CONEY ISLAND is such a quirky, experiential creation that it verily cries out for hermeneutical exegesis. Caveat lector ... The acidic saline citrus opening evokes memories of one thing and one thing alone: the salty rim of a large margarita glass. The frosty blended green slush inside is strong and invigorating and, like an unexpected slap across the face, quickly induces a marked change in view to: a trip to a white-sandy, wind-whipped beach, where vanilla ice cream cones are dripping faster than children can lick them. The waffle-cookie shells are slightly sweet and crunchy, shimmering in the sun, the outer coating of chocolate dark and sumptuous, softening slowly in the heat. Gleaming golden caramel swirls throughout the bright white vanilla cream, yet somehow the ocean nearby keeps it all still salty, with iridescent frothy waves splashing up on the eater as she prepares to take each bite, light mists of seawater spraying into her mouth. Later, exhausted by the day's fun, it...

For the first 5 minutes or possibly a little longer, I kept getting a putty smell that was soaked in Maraschino juice. I say putty since, as a youth, I was a plumber's apprentice for at least 5 years and we used putty for assorted tasks by the tubful. I will never forget that smell. Now, I cannot claim that it ever leaves completely because on my skin, it does not. It does dissipate after the opening volley and isn't near as prominent. The same can be said for the Maraschino trait. It's a weird but likable aroma. I have come across a few other sample wearings over the years that had this putty note, so I don't want anyone to think that this is something unique or that something is amiss. Lusciouscargo has the notes listed as : Fresh grasses, white flowers, incenses, vanilla, almond and cherry. LS has the notes listed as : Precious woods, vanilla, fresh grasses, white florals and dozens they can't name. As I read the short list of notes for Luctor et Emergo, ...

I recently perused the accords of Tauer's Pentachord series and settled upon Auburn. This is one of the things I love about sampling. The worse case scenario is you have no love for something in a 1ml. vial. Cinnamon, Citrus, Sandalwood, Amber and Tobacco. Auburn is strangely good, yet I cannot generate any passion for it. You can smell it's well made and has depth to it. It wears "larger" than you'd expect a 5 note compilation could execute, but ............... .................You guys get the idea. It simply isn't for me in spite of being a quality release. The listed notes are accounted for and on my skin, the amber plays the biggest role. It's semi sweet, a bit on the dry side and slightly resinous. These attributes ( I'm quite sure ) are influenced by the cinnamon who happens to be the next most obvious player. After only a few minutes of wearing Auburn, the woody aspects of sandal and amber are percolating underneath what I can only descri...

The Xerjoff boutique has the listed notes as : Tangerine, Bergamot, Rose, Lily of the Valley, Mint, Amber, Patchouli and Cedar. Quality? Yes, in spades and each note can be clearly identified in remarkable fashion. I enjoy citric openings as much as the next person, but this is tantamount to the nuance differences in regular cable and B-ray high definition. The citrus in the top accord lasts an extraordinary length of time compared to most. It smells extravagant even for a citric opening, but this scent never gets stuffy. After some time has lapsed, a soft and unassuming menthol slides in. Like numerous other enthusiasts, I can have a difficult time with mint depending upon the implementation. This rendition is extremely deft and ( on me ), it's literally hiding behind the oncoming Lily of the Valley. I should note that I get the LOTV first, with the mint right on its coattails. The result is an extremely good accord with longevity. Slowly, the wearings revealed soft, dusty r...

Signatures are very personal. Your identity is wrapped in it and even when you deliberately change the look of your signature, there's always going to be identifiable aspects in it waiting to be discovered. If I had sampled this blindfolded and then asked what house released this 5 seconds after applying it, I would have guessed correctly. Diptyque seems to have a strong house signature that connects each fragrance not only with texture, but its ingredient gene pool. It's more a good thing than a deterrent in my opinion. Guerlain isn't the only one who has succeeded in doing it for years. For me, the vetiver note is a tricky one to like when it's the dominant theme in a release. It's nothing more than a personal quirk and I either like it or don't want to smell that rendition again. Diptyque's Vetyverio is one of the more superior versions I have smelled. It's clean, smooth and extremely unoffensive in every aspect. It possesses just enough of an ear...

Bois 1920 is yet another house that produces some fairly respectable releases. Normally I won't try any fragrance that has the word Sushi in it simply due to my dislike for the dish. It's a mental barrier, I know and naturally this fragrance wouldn't resemble it in aroma, but................ ...........I ordered a sample anyway after looking at the accord. It looked like it may be a sleeper. LS has the notes listed as : Citrus, Pepper, Nutmeg, Cinnamon and Madagascan vanilla. Sushi Imperiale is as uncomplicated as the listed accord. A linear, citric and spice scent that feels like a fragrance I'd wear over the holidays. Of course, the nutmeg and cinnamon are responsible for that association. I will say that the 3 spices are balanced rather judiciously and this makes Sushi Imperiale an easy wear. Each gets equal billing as they ride along with the citrus rendition. It also has substance while not becoming a loud fragrance. Even the vanilla rendition has manners, bu...

Every now and then, I run into an underrated fragrance that is actually underrated. My thanks to Basenoter Cacio for sending me a sample of this as I have been wanting to try it for awhile now. I've heard this was a good leather scent with a terrific price point. I have to concur after wearing this today. Cuir De Lancome is right up there with the likes of high end niche leathers in terms of quality and aroma. It surpasses them in bang for the buck. With that said, Cuir De Lancome opens with a citric-saffron accord with a bit more emphasis on the saffron note. Within a few minutes, a slightly smoky leather rises up and becomes the front runner. As I'm enjoying this part of the opening, a tar note also presents itself, turning Cuir into a butch leather under the guise of femininity. There's simply no way this is for the female persuasion only. The floral heart of jasmin, ylang and hawthorn have to struggle to be heard in this leathery haze. The contributions are mildly...

PRADA INFUSION D'IRIS edp (2007) To my nose, this is an elegant, linear perfume showcasing iris in an ethereal, dreamlike composition. It is streamlined and simple, not junky and cluttered. I find Infusion d'Iris to be extremely feminine, and while it is very clean and fresh, it does not fit at all into any of the current hygiene fads. This is not a shampoo-conditioner frag, nor does it smell anything like cleaning or laundry products. And yet it really is super clean. I would compare the texture to that of a swath of soft linen cloth. It seems white somehow to me, giving off a sort of shimmering celestial aura. Like sunlight shining through a cloud. Or powdery snow sparkling on a mountaintop. Infusion d'Iris is a tranquil, peaceful perfume featuring, as advertised, iris, but also a bit of neroli. These floral notes are lusciously ensconced in a supportive benzoin-cedar layer which lasts a luxuriously long time on my skin. Although Infusion d'Iris is clean...

LS lists the notes for Scarlett as : Rare spices, Blood orange zest, Green of angelica and May rose. I am beginning to think of Keiko Mecheri as a Champion of Understatement. My wearings of this house have left me with the impression that the creations are deliberately soft, close to the skin and yet still hefty enough to be enjoyable at the lower volume. The name Scarlett ( to me ) is a misnomer. The aura is never conjured up and if anything, I imagine the green you would get from peeling the bark of a very young twig away in layers to expose the moist center. The opening also reminds me of Tristano Onofri for Men. Not precisely a sharp accord, but almost. I have enjoyed Angelica in classic masculines, but I cannot recall smelling "green of angelica" before. This must be where I am deriving my impression from. It really doesn't matter what is listed. What matters is the overall totality. Scarlett is truly a linear fragrance and the citrus that is present cannot be ...

The listed notes according to Lusciouscargo are : Resin of myrrh, Clove leaf, Patchouli, Peppercorns and allspice, Sacred wood smoke, Incense and Black vanilla. Sacred wood smoke and black vanilla? Sounds mystical doesn't it? Om may not actually be aromystical , but it is a nice wear. Please forgive me making up words as I go. For all I know, aromystical can be a legitimate word, but in the case it isn't, I'm calling dibs on it. Om opens with an alcoholic myrrh. The alcohol quickly dissipates revealing a resinous myrrh and clove combination. The balance of these two notes is very good. The clove never gets the upper hand and is possibly the most low key rendition I've come across. A more familiar incense note slowly begins to creep into the accord after 10 minutes or so. It's subtle, but so is the entire scent. Om isn't weak per se, but more an understated creation and needs to be. Loud and obvious doesn't necessarily go hand in hand with contemplative...

I recently reviewed Black Afgano and stated its similarities to Sonoma Scent Studio's Champagne de Bois. I have been wearing Nasomatto Pardon today and the first thing that hit me ( once again ) was the similarity between it and Sonoma's Sienna Musk. Rather than expounding on this, allow me to say that a side by side is in order by all interested hobbyists. Since I find them related, this is the best way I can think of to choose the worthiest offering. Now, on to Pardon......... LS has the listed notes as : Oud, Magnolia, Chocolate, Tonka Bean, Cinnamon and Sandalwood. I don't get a conventional oud accord in Pardon. What I do get is a thick, enveloping woody of the dark variety with hints of spice and unsweetened chocolate. The scent is full bodied, very rich and possesses the same denseness as Laurie Erickson's creations. This is an extrait and there's no doubt a little goes a long way. The "oud" isn't medicinal, but the wood rendition is sligh...

The perfumes of Roméa d’Améor have not been extensively reviewed, but since this small house produces only creations intended specifically for women (not for men, nor unisex), the fact that it was not listed at Basenotes, the members of which generally seem to pride themselves on being up to the minute on the latest niche offerings, did not necessarily mean all that much. The house's founder, Annie Vannier describes her line at the website thus: Roméa d’Améor’s extraordinary line of seven scents is a tribute to real women throughout the ages who have touched history in tangible ways…women with distinct personalities who lived very different lives surrounded by the scents of their time, for whom each [is] paid a fragrant tribute. The “ real women throughout the ages ” turn out to be the members of fairly exclusive groups: Les Souveraines d'Egypte [The (female) Sovereigns of Egypt] Les Impératrices Japonaises [The Empresses of Japan] Les Maîtresses de Louis XIV [The Mistresses...