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Showing posts from March, 2014

Black Silver by MCM

Bergamot, Lavender, Lemon, Mandarin' Cedar, Cyclamen, Geranium, Jasmine, Rose, Sandalwood. Musk, Tonka Bean, Vetiver, Vanilla. Years ago when I tried Black Silver, I honestly did not like it whatsoever. I seem to have an affinity for this house that started with my becoming acquainted with Success. This caused me to try, like and then purchase others like 24 Hour Morning and Evening. Hence Black Silver entering my wardrobe, due to a blind purchase, based on confidence from the aforementioned fragrances. I admit to being very disappointed with it and relegating its use more as free samples to friends, before shoving it to the back of the line. Recently,something made me bust out Black Silver, blow the dust off it and give it another whirl. Now, I can begin this review by stating that in no wise do I love it, but I find it much more wearable than I did in the past. There's something to the fact that we all change and that our tastes evolve along with us. The most st...

Pecksniff's Active for Men

Ozone, Grapefruit, Mandarin, Bergamot, Cedar Leaf. I have worn Active for Men now for 3 straight days trying to get a bead on this fragrance. Slowly, it's growing on me, but I admit to not liking the initial wearing. I'm assuming that this particular Pecksniff's is more suited for "light" and "casual" choices. If I'm mistaken, then I don't know what Pecksniff's was trying to accomplish when they sat down at the table to discuss creating it. At any rate, Active seems to share DNA with Horizon and smells like it has a more than a dash of it in the composition. Comparison aside, Active for Men wears more like a refreshing body mist than a conventional Eau de Toilette. I'm not insinuating "weak", but rather light. It possesses characteristics of ozonic, citric and herbal. I had the same reactions when I first attempted to understand Horizon. Fragrances like this are an acquired taste for me, but you may already have an affin...

Missoni by Missoni Eau de Toilette

Aldehydes, Bergamot, Cassia, Hiacynth, Raspberry. Geranium, Iris, Jasmine, Rose, Ylang-Ylang. Amber, Civet, Honey, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Styrax. I recently purchased a vintage 4.2 oz. bottle with box from a very good seller on the bay. I have no problem giving auction sellers props here because the bad or indifferent ones (unfortunately) are the majority. The good ones leave an impression with me, so I will put out the name of jessiecat as I have with Henry Ong who sells under mrscentman. What can I say then about this 1982 release? I suppose the first fact I can put out there is that the fragrance is completely intact and was well stored. The 2nd thing I noticed after application was that it isn't what I would deem a feminine powerhouse, yet it's substantial due to its full bodied nature. Another tidbit I'll throw out there is that Missoni wears like a contemporary shared scent and doesn't lean feminine like one would expect. Glancing at the listed notes abov...

True Star by Tommy Hilfiger

Aldehydes, Citrus Peels, Melon, Honeysuckle, Musk. I ran across a bottle of this 10 year old fragrance recently in a thrift store. It was an almost full 50ml. Eau de Parfum. When I consider picking up a scent in a place like this, extremely cheap or not, I always spritz it first to ensure it hasn't gone rancid or turned. Surprisingly, most I buy from bargain stores are intact, however there are instances when they're not. True Star smelled good to go, so I tossed it in the cart. Places like this are a source for me to acquire numerous scents that were never really mainstream and an opportunity to try them for under $3.00. Some are surprisingly good, some are very forgettable while others are downright unwearable. True Star is an uncomplicated and slightly ethereal feminine. The opening accord is actually very pleasant and refreshing. The listed notes appear accurate and the top notes are lucid and somewhat juicy. This is simple, direct and a comforting salutation. Tru...

Cool Water by Davidoff ( Revised )

Marine Notes, Mint, Green Notes, Coriander, Lavender, Rosemary. Neroli, Jasmine, Geranium, Sandalwood. Cedarwood, Oakmoss, Musk, Ambergris, Tobacco. I try and revisit fragrances that are iconic and ones that have left me wanting in previous reviews. The version of Cool Water I'm reviewing is exactly like the image, which means it's a reformulated rendition. I have no way of knowing how it compares ( side by side ) to a vintage version as I don't own one. I've never been moved enough to snag one and that is still the case unfortunately. I thoroughly enjoy the opening accord which lasts 4 to 5 minutes tops. At least on my skin, the "Marine Notes" aren't predominant. They are in the mix for sure, but the spicy lavender, green citrus and the suggestion of mint are what interplay the best. Sadly, they are ephemeral and soon give way to a more chemical aspect. Even during the heart phase, the advent of a more revealing orange rendition is evident onc...

Grey Flannel by Geoffrey Beene

Neroli, Bergamot, Galbanum, Lemon, Petitgrain. Violet, Rose, Daffodil, Mimosa, Iris, Sage, Geranium. Cedar, Vetiver, Oakmoss, Tonka Bean, Almond. Grey Flannel is one of the few classic masculines that, to this day, gives me split personality. It's association to the woolen sheath it comes in is very appropriate ( at least to me ). I recognize individuality when I smell it and know beforehand that this particular scent is held in high regard by many. Still, I can't bring myself to love it or even give it full wearings, yet I keep it around to periodically visit with it and enjoy the eclecticism that is Grey Flannel. That may sound strange, but Grey Flannel isn't the only fragrance I esteem in a similar fashion. I suppose it's more about respect for this icon than the desire to be draped in its aroma. For years and until the present, Grey Flannel is a sobering scent. I find it stark and serious, but not devoid of charms. It possess that ability to keep you conti...

Amarige by Givenchy

Orange, Mandarin, Peach, Plum, Neroli, Rosewood Acacia, Blackcurrant, Gardenia, Mimosa, Tuberose Amber, Cedar, Sandalwood, Musk, Tonka, Vanilla What's white, green, fruity, woody and strong as Arnold Schwarzenegger was in his heyday? Amarige is a no holds barred, multi-faceted floral that could be considered either terrific or outright headache inducing. The secret is using an extremely deft touch when applying this fragrance and you will undoubtedly experience a very well made and pleasant feminine floral. Go all Arnold on this and you will think you just met the Terminator after a sex change. I describe it in this fashion because of the negativity posted on reviews and forums about Amarige, by those who've had a bad experience wearing it or being close to someone who was. Yes, Amarige is a muscular floral that seems to be misunderstood by some. No one, ( including me ) wants to be in proximity to a steroided flower bomb. That situation is no doubt rude, not to menti...

Bowling Green by Geoffrey Beene

Orange, Basil, Bergamot, Fruit Notes, Juniper, Lemon, Pimento, Clove, Vetiver. Verbena, Artemesia, Cardamom, Cinnamon, Jasmine, Lavender, Pine Needles, Nutmeg, Sage, Oakmoss. Rosemary, Amber, Cedar, Fir, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Geranium, Coriander, Rosewood, Moss. Listed above is an impressive array of notes from the mid eighties. The formula I'm reviewing is a 1987 vintage bottle and I have no idea how it stacks up to newer releases of Bowling Green. The reason that doesn't matter is simple enough. The only times I need to emphasize "vintage" is if the fragrance I'm referring to is so good that it would stand to reason a "reformulation" would be ( at least ) a slightly inferior representation. In the case of Bowling Green, I find it a worthy scent, but not something that would or could be desecrated by changes. I suppose it's always a good idea ( if possible ) to do side by side comparisons. As you can probably tell already, Bowling Green i...

Crazy Rain Eau de Cologne by Novaya Zarya

Bergamot, Cumin, Coriander, Green Notes, Lavender, Jasmine, Cedar, Tree Moss, Patchouli, Tonka Bean, Vanilla. Okay......here's comes a potentially sacrilegious statement. Crazy Rain by Novaya Zarya gives me the impression of what Tiffany for Men "Light" would smell like if there was such a thing as Tiffany Light. There......I said it and if you think I'm a jack off, then all I can recommended is do a side by side as I've been compelled to and then talk smack to me afterwards. Yes, Crazy Rain is an economical Russian EDC and this bottle was part of a lot I recently purchased on auction. Naturally, Tiffany smells deeper and richer, but the similarities are evident from 3 minutes into the wearings. Now, with that comparison out of the way, is Crazy Rain worth getting or at least sampling? I would say yes on both counts. For an EDC, this wears thicker than most, although the longevity is still that of an Eau de Cologne concentration that is a bit better than ...

Maxim's De Paris

Cassius, Hyacinth, Mint, Melon. Carnation, Geranium, Jasmine, Mimosa, Narcissus, Orange Blossom, Rose, Tuberose. Amber, Heliotrope, Labdanum, Musk, Patchouli, Oakmoss, Sandalwood, Vanilla. I snagged a full bottle of this recently in a lot-deal. This wasn't the fragrance I was focused on, but it came with the lot and I had a passing interest in this anyway. It was released in 1984 and since I found Maxim's pour Homme to my liking, why not give this a go since I don't recall ever smelling it. Perfumes such as this remind me of that old school "Chock Full of Nuts" coffee from back in the day. They cram more into one creation than is even reasonable to do so. That doesn't always translate into a successful composition, but in this case, it performs very nicely. I find the blending top shelf and Maxim's transitions 3 distinct times on my skin. The opening shimmers with an array of floral players. It's aldehydic and unfolds as a bouquet with a bit ...

Casino EDC by Novaya Zarya

Bergamot, Lavender, Basil, Sage, Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang, Moss, Verbena, Sandalwood. After wearing Casino a few times, I naturally had Mrs. Aromi give me her take on what it is she smelled as I offered a fragrant hand her way. "Old soap" was her brief reply and just as quickly, she went back to watching the "Big Bang Theory". I can only guess that Sheldon Cooper would have given a similar, abbreviated opinion. As for me, I get the soapy Lavender accord, but at least I don't find it "old" or of the caustic variety. Casino is EDC strength and its longevity is in keeping with that. I admit to liking the spicy-clean opening and also the fact that Casino has a thick quality to it during the top accord. This denseness diffuses rather quickly and transitions to a more spacious accord of lavender, soft spice and a subtle mixture of herb, fruit and orange. After 15 minutes of heavy sprays, Casino shows its hole card and is exposed for the Eau de Cologn...

C'Est Moi by Etienne Aigner

Green Notes, Peony, Wild Berries, Tuberose, Orchid, Wood Notes, Musk. It doesn't take but about 2 minutes to notice the woodiness of this 1983 feminine from Etienne Aigner. Classified as a fresh-floral, I believe that is a misnomer. This should be a floral-woody if anything. The woods I'm experiencing are more than likely cedarwood oil. It's reminiscent of that note I relive, time and time again, in numerous classic masculines. It's extroverted and has a vitality that contemporary renditions of woods do not. I'm not saying superior, but I am saying noticeably different. Personally, I like all implementations of the note, regardless of release date. The woods in C'Est Moi are more indicative of the times......and it's good. It makes C'Est Moi lean a bit masculine if you ask me, but others may disagree. I could wear this in public and pull it off, although I'd have to be careful of how much I'd apply. This has some kick to it. Perhaps t...

Martinique by Tommy Bahama

Bergamot, Pepper, Lavender, Musk, Woods. Having already reviewed St. Barts, I am compelled to bring it up due to the similarities both of these fragrances exhibit. They have the same genetic makeup with a mild tweak here and there. Martinique is St. Barts with a more peppery flavor and slightly heavier wear. For me to own both ( and I do ) is a redundancy owed primarily to both being priced so low that I could not stop myself from adding it to my cart at the local TJMAXX. Am I disappointed? No, I'm not because as similar as they are, they'll both get worn in the spring and summer months. While doing a side by side, I noticed that by the time the heart accord commences, Martinique is a tad denser. Maybe even more accurate would be to say that St. Barts is a bit brighter. To be honest, I'm splitting hairs and what I notice most in this transition is the spice in Martinique. The real differences between these two are the pepper rendition in Martinique and that by b...

Kuznetsky Most by Novaya Zarya ( Henry Brokar )

Grapefruit, Lemon, Blackcurrant, Cinnamon, Pineapple, Cedar, Musk. Not long ago, I won three bottles of Novaya Zarya Colognes at auction. They were dirt cheap and between 90 to 100ml bottles. One of them was this Eau de Toilette bottle of Kuznetsky Most. The other two were "Crazy Rain" and "Casino". I've had occasion to wear all three for full wearings and have to say that they've kind of grown on me. No, they're not sleepers that anyone needs to go hunting down, but they're a bit more enjoyable than I had anticipated them to be. For the price point and functionality ( work rotation frags ), they get the job done and are understated. These Russian masculines are just as good or possibly superior to, some of the better known el cheapos I own from the past. At any rate, they are at least as wearable as other economical frags I have and they aren't boisterous. There's nothing worse than a drugstore type fragrance with ultra presence. T...

Secret EDP by Marilyn Miglin

Melon, Clementines, Rosewood, Grapefruit. White Peach, Bulgarian Rose, Ylang-Ylang, Honeysuckle. Amber, Heliotrope, Violet Woods. My apologies for the lackluster image. I had to pilfer it from an auction listing since I couldn't find an adequate one. I have a mini and my own pic doesn't look much better, so this one will have to suffice. I can say however, that the fragrance is a surprisingly good fruity floral and extremely feminine. Secret is rather strong and empowering, but doesn't develop a crassness that I experience sometimes when I apply something deliberately heavy. I'll occasionally do that with Eau de Parfums to see if there's a shrill aspect to the wearing, but Secret stops short of that. This blankets my skin already developed and stays that way until long into the drydown phase. Peach, Ylang, dusty Rose and Honeysuckle are front and center on my skin and perhaps other notes will be more prevalent on you than I. The Heliotrope lends a subtle...