Il Mondo di Odore

Rose, Tuberose, Mimosa, Melon, Green Notes, Coriander, Aldehyde. Jasmine, Patchouli, Orange Blossom, Orris Root, Muguet, Laurel, Cedar, Cardamom. Oakmoss, Vetiver, Sandalwood, Amber, Musk, Patchouli, Orris Root, Spices, Civet. Jean Kerleo is the nose behind Knowing by Estee Lauder. He also happens to be responsible for what I consider to be ( quite possibly ) the best masculine designer fragrance of all time. For the few that don't know what I'm referring to, it happens to be the venerable Patou Pour Homme. Lauder is a house I normally don't care for that much, but exceptions are a general rule that we all must adhere to. Knowing is more substantial than I thought it would be and although a feminine, this is strong willed and determined not to be your garden variety, sexy chypre. Extremely woody from Cedarwood oil, the earth and green tones lend enough masculinity to have me considering wearing this or at least layering it. You simply don't smell anything curr...

Cake Flour, Dark Cacao Bean, Osmanthus, Bronzed Musk. No.83 by Tokyo Milk is yet another quirky, but likable fragrance. The "commonality" I mentioned in previous reviews regarding this series is evident once again. However, they've managed to put just enough of a twist in all of them ( so far ) to give them personalities all their own. No.83 is the most "foody" of the four I've tested. This is because the cocoa is very dominant on my skin throughout the life of the wearings and the longevity is surprisingly good. What I don't experience is a bittersweet quality in No.83. The dusty cocoa is on the dry side and slightly bitter. Nothing ever comes to fruition to add a legitimate sweet aspect to the accords, but the absence of it doesn't take anything away from this scent. It's still full, rich and long lasting. It simply leans more "bitter" than anything else. In sampling the "darks" of Tokyo Milk, they all have valid...

Gardenia, Freesia, Clementine, Watermelon, Kiwi, Mango, Cardamom. Pimento Leaves, Daffodil, Tuberose, Jasmine, Peony, Lotus. Musk, Plum, Vanilla. Recently, I found a 7.5ml. spray bottle of this perfume at a local store and picked it up unsniffed. To be more accurate, I found quite a few minis of rather interesting feminines and bought them all. I admit that I didn't expect much from this De La Renta and decided to try it yesterday. Like the listed accords, it is extremely foral with just enough fruit to give it a sense of balance. What So De La Renta doesn't do is subjugate you with old school overkill. It only takes this fragrance a few minutes to settle down into a comfortable wear. For whatever reason, this is reminiscent of releases from the 1980's instead of later 90's, but not where presence is concerned. I'm grateful that it's not a sillage monster because it would simply be too much. So De La Renta is a controlled scent and because of the note ...

Rose, Geranium, Peach, Plum, Galbanum, Bergamot, Anise. Violet, Jasmine, Rose, Tuberose, Heliotrope, Ylang Ylang, Carnation, Tarragon, Myrrh, Nutmeg. Gray Amber, Sandalwood, Moss, Patchouli, Vanilla, Musk, Coriander, Civet, Cedar, Tonka Bean. Jill Sander No.4........an exercise in luxury. Michel Almairac has managed to create a Tuberose dominant fragrance that regally sits astride the likes of 1980's sillage bombs such as Poison, Giorgio and Lou Lou and the more sparkling Tuberose scents from the noughties ( Carnal Flower, Michael Kors, Beyond Love ).  No.4 is admittedly in very good company. The fantastic Blonde is from this era, as is Organza and Amarige. All are wonderful Tuberoses and lest we forget the fab Fragile, which came shortly thereafter. These, to name but a few, are extremely enjoyable representations, yet No.4 seems to rise above these. It plants itself firmly in the senses and remains to me, unforgettable. Ever since Germaine Cellier created a Tuberos...

Rose, Apricot, Muguet, Peach, Pineapple, Bergamot, Lilac. Iris, Heliotrope, Rose, Jasmine. Musk, Amber, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Peach, Apricot. Tresor seems to run the gamut according to reviewers. I assumed I would find it a bit polarizing, but after wearing it for a few days, it leans more toward the conventional, Fruity-Floral genre than anything. Tresor is a substantial, feminine perfume and that, in itself, will cause some to enjoy it and others to shun it. Most opinions that I read voiced their satisfaction or dismay with the rendition of Peach and Apricot. I, on the other hand, realize a dewy rose at the very core of Tresor that is accented by fruit and floral notes. Rose is the focal point ( for me ) and all the accompanying embellishments are a bit better than I had anticipated. Tresor opens with what I perceive as Aldehyde and Bergamot. It shimmers momentarily before revealing the percolating Rose and Fruit combination. Throughout the Intro and heart accords, Tre...

Absinthe, Vanilla Salt, Cut Greens, Crushed Fennel. I get a kick out of artistic liberty. Not only for naming creations, but the ingredients as well. I'm looking at the accord listing, then smelling what's on my skin and wondering who, but the parfumeur actually knows what the hell I just spritzed on my person. In this hobby, it all boils down to whether or not it smells acceptable. So far, this lineup from Tokyo Milk is better than I could have anticipated. I can add Arsenic to the list of winners, although it is a bit unconventional. The name is foreboding, but in reality, No. 17 is nothing more than an eclectic combination of ingredients that are tuned to smell good, but a bit different. Like the others I have tried, Arsenic has gravitas without weighing the wearer down. Substance sans heaviness is an enjoyable aspect for me when I'm wearing a fragrance. I don't care for being bogged down if I can help it. Arsenic starts out a bit cool on me, but begins t...

Bergamot, Lemon, Mandarin, Aldehyde, Tarragon, Lavender. Jasmine, Carnation, Geranium, Rose, Cinnamon, Fir, Fern. Amber, Benzoin, Moss, Musk, Labdanum, Patchouli, Styrax, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Sandalwood. This Versace creation is little known outside of fragrance circles since its release in 1993. Marketing used Fabio as the face of the launch and even now, I find that rather appropriate. It would be safe to assume that, by the name of the fragrance, Mediterraneum would materialize as a lucid citric scent that morphs into a subtle oriental. That isn't the case however as Mediterraneum blankets the skin as a dense, spicy citrus that leans heavy. The orange is bold but good and the accents provided by lavender and green notes make for a very interesting opening accord. The floral heart is compact, but extremely fitting. On me, none of the floral components seem to fully open and realize their individual potential, but together function as a thick unit of aroma. There'...

Lavender, Clary Sage, Bergamot, Anise, Neroli, Tarragon, Rosemary. Geranium, Rose, Heliotrope, Carnation, Cedar, Cyclamen, Juniperberry. Oakmoss, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Amber, Leather, Musk. If you happen to enjoy classic masculines, Smalto will not leave you disappointed. For a good example, I like and wear Alain Delon Plus. While both it and Smalto are assuredly related, Smalto is smoother and leans farther "green" than Delon, but these and a host of others from that era were cast from the same mold. It is a bit retro, but very viable to those who eschew loud classics, yet enjoy their construction. Smalto's citric-lavender opening is very bright, aromatic and enjoyable for the first few minutes or so before settling down. It mushrooms on the skin and is accented by green spices. The presence lowers  quickly and morphs into the classic, 1980's vibe. Smalto showcases a green theme on me, courtesy of herb, spice and cyclamen. There's a subtle smoke and ...

Ginger, Saffron. Cardamom, Orris Root. White Cedar, Vetiver, Musk. Noir by Christian Lacroix is an Avon product. That, in itself, made me hesitant to try this. I personally don't care for Avon creations ( for my own reasons ), but I do like Tomorrow for Men. Once I saw that Saffron was listed in the accords, I was persuaded to pick up some samples. Sadly, I am genuinely disappointed in its implementation. If your definition of "Noir" is "Bleak", then this release comes somewhat close. Overall, it smells better than your average Avon fragrance, but innocuous masculines have a way of aggravating me. The dominating note on my skin, through the majority of the wearings, is that of a slightly dirty musk. I prefer sensual musk renditions as opposed to this. I suppose the tuning of musk, orris and vetiver in Noir are simply not to my liking. The first 2 minutes or so are promising. I enjoyed the opening that simulated what I can describe as spicy fruit. T...

Bergamot, Coriander, Green Leaves, Lavender, Lemon. Carnation, Cyclamen, Cypress, Fir, Jasmine, Rose. Vanilla, Sandalwood, Amber, Benzoin, Castoreum, Cedar, Patchouli. I'm reviewing the vintage release of Colors Uomo, not because of snobbery or a disdain for the newer renditions. Truth is, I have never smelled any of them that I can recall. If I have, I surely don't remember and I recently scored a vintage 100ml. with box on the bay. I submitted a low ball bid and as luck would have it, no one else bid on it. What I can initially say is that I am pleasantly surprised at how nice this is. There's also a very calm complexity churning in this fragrance that I didn't expect to exist. I wrongly assumed it was a superficial and linear scent due to some reviews I read after winning the bottle and waiting for it to arrive. The opening of Colors Uomo is classic, bright, lucid and extremely enjoyable. It smells like a well executed 1980's citric fougiental from th...

Smoked Tea, Coconut Milk, Crushed Cedar, Ebony Woods. What could be better than being the person called upon to name fragrance accords? It would as close to a dream job for me as humanly possible. Bulletproof No. 45 is the 2nd fragrance from this house I have tried and so far, Tokyo Milk is batting 1000. Some of the note descriptions may be a stretch, but in the end, who gives a %$#@ what a perfume house claims is used in their accords? I certainly don't, as long as the overall scent is good to go. On me, Tokyo Milk's Bulletproof opens with a smoky, saffronesque woods that remains that way for the life of the scent. I'm actually torn between which one I like better. I already put No. 28 on my purchase list and now this one is just as good. Feminine? No, this is shared all the way and if I was forced to choose a gender, I'd have to say this leans a bit more masculine than anything. This is dark with a shimmer to it and the smokiness is the perfect compliment ...

Bergamot, Berries, Plum. Rose, Orange, Lotus, Iris. Amber, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Patchouli, Praline, Musk. Sensual Amber leans too far feminine for my tastes, although I am a fan of amber fragrances. It also isn't a conventional implementation of amber as I've become accustomed to, but the totality is still pleasant enough. Sensual Amber is a fruity-floral woody that, for the price point, is actually a good deal and especially so if you are a fan of Bath and Body Works to begin with. The progression of the fragrance eventually unveils a synthetic version of sweet amber, but it took a little doing ( on my skin ) to reach that destination. The citric-fruit opening is candied and within a few minutes, it reminds me of a nectar-like jam. During the opening and heart accords, I swore I was getting whiffs of tuberose. I guess I can chalk that up to the ratios used in utilizing the other floral ingredients along with praline. It never morphs into a nutty quality on me, but ...

Amber Resin, Oak Bark, Patchouli, Blood Orange. I tried this one a few times, courtesy of my friend sherapop ( thanks dear !!! ) and admit to being impressed by how this wears and smells versus the price point. It possesses bang for the buck besides being a sensual fragrance. I cannot imagine either gender having a problem pulling this off and in spite of being marketed as a feminine, I wouldn't bat an eye spraying this on and then going about my business. This is an Eau de Parfum that wears lighter than some. You can see the listed notes above, but I seem to enjoy a soft, dusty cocoa note in the mix from the initial spray. The orange is restrained just enough to curtail any stridency. I happen to think it's tuned exceptionally well as is the patchouli rendition. There's wood and earth tones in this brew, but they seem to straddle the gender line. I don't notice much movement or stages of development, but they really aren't necessary. On me, Excess No.28...

Musk, Iris, Pink Berries. Every time I wear this particular scent, I'm almost certain I smell a soft jasmine-rose accented with violet from the onset. When I first wore it a few years ago, I perceived it a bit differently than I do at the present and I remember not liking it near as much as I do these days. This is a substantial fragrance that leans on the heavy side, yet doesn't enter the room before you do. It's dark, partially sweet and rather intriguing. The feel of Narciso Rodriguez for Him is that it's more suitable for cooler temperatures. Of course, that's not to say you couldn't wear it whenever and wherever you wanted to. I personally think it performs best in cold weather, but that's one mans opinion. It's also noteworthy to mention that, for an EDP, it wears much lighter than a conventional Eau de Parfum once the opening has dissipated. It is denser than your average EDT, but doesn't project or last longer than one. The liste...

Mandarin, Bergamot, Grapefruit, Basil, Lemon, Lime, Petitgrain. Gardenia, Rhododendron, Freesia, Laurel, Cedar, Jasmine, Patchouli. Amber, Incense, Moss, Musk, Tonka Bean. Yet another revision due to a seemingly good mini from three years ago. Apparently, it was a bit off, so it's only proper to do a more accurate review this time around. Minis can be unstable as I have found out and even when they look "right" or haven't turned rancid, they are capable of giving the wearer an erroneous experience. My previous review from 2009 wasn't a negative one. I was simply left wanting and walked away unimpressed. This particular sample does impress me however and the citric accord is especially good. It's a bit sharp from the lime and grapefruit, but in a positive way. It's never "biting" and the quick onset of jasmine and freesia round off any edges that may have been lurking. Within a few minutes, a very subtle menthol appears alo...

Bergamot, Green Notes, Lavender, Clary Sage, Rosemary. Carnation, Jasmine, Orris, Rose, Thyme. Amber, Benzoin, Castoreum, Cedar, Labdanum, Leather, Styrax, Tonka Bean. One terrific reason for keeping atomized samples for years on end is that you can always go back and try them again. It's amusing to see if your perception has changed or if the fragrance is exactly how you remembered it to be. I did a very brief review on Moschino Pour Homme about 3 years ago and it was a positive one at that. I've always liked this masculine and wearing it anew hasn't seemed to sway me in the other direction. It is definitely a period piece ( 1990 ), but it would still rock in today's more formal affairs or anything ( for that matter ) that requires elegant attire. In truth, I admit that, to me, Moschino Pour Homme isn't a versatile fragrance in spite of smelling very good. It's also stealthy in the respect that it embodies a very full character without overpowerin...

Bergamot, Sage, Juniper, Lemon. Geranium, Clove, Lavender, Nutmeg, Orange Blossom. Oak, Coffee, Musk, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Cedar. The very first thing I noticed upon wearing Oak by Bath and Body Works is the "slight nod" it gives to Bigelow Black Elixir. Oak is the softer, lighter 2nd cousin and for all its listed notes, you'd be hard pressed to identify most while wearing it. Regardless of the accords being blurred, it seems to be one of those fragrances you can simply spray on, relax and not care about progressions, projection or longevity. It's comfortably generic and on me, the intro is built around the "suggestion" of coffee instead of wood. Once Oak has been on the skin for 10 minutes or longer, an ambery accord begins to rear its head. Smelling it up close, it possesses a subtle play-doh quality not unlike the rendition I've smelled in a few other designer fragrances. I haven't had Oak on my skin more than 15 minutes and...