Il Mondo di Odore

Best Wishes for the New Year from all of us. May 2013 bring you and yours health, prosperity and fabulous things to smell !!!

Cardamom, Cypress, Rosemary, Myrrh, Honey, Copahu Balm, Agar Oud, Atlas Cedar, Cipriol, Blond Burley Tobacco. Funny how an accord that's listed can catch your eye, fuel your curiosity until you purchase and then develop on your skin in such a way as to disappoint. Such is the case with Gaalad by Lubin for yours truly. The tuning of notes seems to be where Galaad loses me from the onset. The ones I wish were merely assistance notes seem to be at the fore; naturally at the expense of the ones I was keenly interested in. The loss of presence ( as a whole ) by the time the heart accord transpires is yet another negative for me. I don't want to state that Galaad is underwhelming or poorly made. It is not. I simply am not enthralled by what I smell, nor is the projection and staying power admirable by any means. Always remember that this is simply one mans opinion. I suppose what stands out the most during each wearing is a herbaceous-rubber quality joined by Rosemary. This...

Chinese Mandarin, Indian Sandalwood, Mimosa, Musk, Woods. I find some eclectic fragrances locally, due to my frequenting numerous thrift stores after finishing work and before heading home. Silk Mandarin Santal is yet another procurement added to my shelves. I paid a whopping $1.16 for a 125ml. bottle that's 85% full. Naturally, if a scent I stumble upon is without merit, I won't buy it regardless of the price. The one good thing about "local" partials is that you can test it while in the store and then decide. As for me, I have a proclivity for citrus-sandalwood scents and Silk Mandarin Santal more than scratches that itch. I'm rather impressed at the presence and staying power  that this "Mist" possesses. Make no mistake, this isn't on par with their EDP rendition, but I own EDT's that are commensurate and some that are weaker. Suffice it to say that this mist version is assuredly adequate. It also represents citrus and sandalwood in a sa...

Raspberry, Blackcurrant, Rose, Freesia, Violet, Musk, Sandalwood, Cedar. Cassis Rose is an interestingly dry, fruity floral that becomes easier to wear with each additional application. My initial sampling gave me the impression of a rather stark, green hued rose. Subsequent wearings however have unveiled a more detailed scent. The combination of Freesia and Blackcurrant open Cassis Rose while a subtle Rose unfolds ever so slowly. It's a dry rendition on me with an undercurrent of tender stem, mild tar and wood. It's an enjoyable accord, not only to wear, but to decipher as well. I have to focus on what it is I'm smelling since it seems to be blended very nicely. Naturally, I'd prefer to just spray and enjoy without thinking about it, but the notes are "tight" as they unravel and it forces me to concentrate in order to review it properly. The fruit quality, at least on my skin, is never more than a mild accent that augments the Blackcurrant, Freesia ...

Tangerine, Guava, Honeysuckle, Linden Blossom, Patchouli, Amber, Praline. Here is an unexpected review for me. I stumbled upon a full bottle locally for a little over 3 dollars and bought it because I thought Mrs. Aromi would dig the bottle. She did like the aesthetics, but what surprised me was that I liked what I smelled enough to review Believe by Britney Spears. It is feminine to the point of being a deterrent for me, but the drydown evolves just  enough to straddle the gender line. Believe has 2 stages of development on my skin. The opening is a fresh and lucid floral with fruity accents. What I noticed most about the first 15 minutes was that Believe is mild, yet penetrating enough to communicate you are wearing a pleasant fragrance. The Linden Blossom seems to be at the core of Believe, amplifying the assistance notes while implementing a fresh and green-floral quality. This initial accord lasts around 30 minutes or so on me before transitioning. The change sees Be...

Merry Christmas from us at Il Mondo di Odore. We wish you a fabulous and safe Holiday celebration !!!! Special wishes go out to the members of  Parfumo   and to our friends who follow  Il Mondo di Odore. We can only hope you enjoy what we post as much as we enjoy posting it !!! I'd also like to take opportunity to wish Basenoters Mimi Gardenia, Redneck Perfumisto   and Henry Ong   ( aka. xmen ) a terrific Christmas. We hope to have quite a bit of fun in the coming year sampling all sorts of goodies. With any luck, most will be good........but only time will tell...... Hobbies, like this one, wouldn't be remotely possible without the ability to exercise the freedoms we enjoy. My sincere appreciation goes out to all the servicemen and women  of this great nation for throwing themselves to the hazard on our behalf.  With that said, allow me thank all our terrific readers who support us. We wish the best to you and your families over th...

I sometimes change my evaluations of a perfume, for a variety of different possible reasons. Occasionally I discover that a fragrance which I initially was very enthusiastic about is not all that great in a long-term relationship. My best guess is that in some cases I had low expectations which were exceeded in my initial testing experience, leading me to overlook shortcomings or flaws out of a sense of relief. On the other hand, I may have a prejudice in favor of some niche creations, thinking that they must be better because they are niche, and this, too, can lead to disappointment later on down the line, once the honeymoon is over, so to speak. I do not always revise my opinion downward, though it's easy to see why that would happen more often than the reverse scenario, since once I've written off a fragrance, there is really no rational reason to revisit it. So many fragrances, so little time! The occasions where I have revised my view upward tend to involve bottles...

Ingenious? I think not ... A ridiculously long winded name for a fragrance that could have been really special, but unfortunately just makes it to the "nice" category. The usually incredible M.Ropion has dropped the ball a little here for me ... but that doesn't mean that I wouldn't wear What We Do In Paris Is Secret. I feel the need to substantiate that statement by saying that even though I feel slightly let down by this creation, the work of someone I consider to be a master perfumer, I do "get" it. I also rather like it and I suppose it's unfair to compare it to masterpieces like Carnal Flower and L'Elephant ... no one really knows what the circumstances of it's creation are. What disappoints somewhat is that What We Do In Paris Is Secret is rather conformist ... from a house that blatantly advertises it's ingenuity. Nevertheless, the combination of Rose and "nutty" notes like Tonka and Tolu here are lovel...

Petrolheads Rejoice!! Not having had any exposure to the Annick Goutal range of fragrances I was pleased to find this one included in an envelope of mystery samples :). I had absolutely no idea what to expect so I went into this test totally blind ... and was utterly flabbergasted! Now when I say 'flabbergasted' I don't necessarily mean it in a positive way, but neither is this fragrance a negative for me. It's just completely surprising and catches one totally off guard. Eau du Fier (or Proud Water) is über masculine ... very much in the same way that the really hot guy who services your car is masculine ... all grease stained and muscle armed ... with piercing blue eyes gazing quirkily at you while explaining the problems with your manifold! But I digress ... An almost overwhelming note of petrol dominates this Goutal offering. Now for some, this can be a complete winner. Indeed, I am one of those who sticks my head out of the window at the gas statio...

Citrus, Geranium, Violet Blossom, Jasmine, Rose, Ylang-Ylang, Violet Leaf, Lavender, Vanilla, Orris Root, Sandalwood. Created by Andy Tauer, Miriam opens as a feminine that possesses a classic feel to it. The aroma and its construction is akin to feminines from yesteryear that had an emphasis on turning a head or two. There's nothing subtle here and even though the initial part of the wearings were on the "sharp" side, Miriam eventually evolved into a smoother creature. I find contrasts in the transitional stages. The renditions of Violet and Lavender are cutting, but not piercing and at the same time, there are other factors at work slowly smoothing the edges. Geranium and Rose are also pitted against one another and the idea behind the scent is rather interesting. The preeminent note on my skin is Rose. You will realize this after 5 minutes and some of the smoke has cleared. It's at the core of Miriam and heavily accented by Violet, Lavender and a backgrou...

Patchouli, Coriander, Cardamom. Patchouli, Flowers, Berries. Patchouli, Musk, Leather, Vanilla. I've worn Noir Patchouli before and genuinely thought I had already reviewed it. I suppose it's best this way, since my current perceptions-descriptions differ ( on occasion ) with fragrances I've reviewed a few years back. We all evolve in increments and I'm certainly no exception. This particular release is a leathery patch bordering on gnarly. My initial comparison was to that of Giorgio V.I.P. Special Reserve and after multiple wearings, the similarities haven't changed.  On me, they are kissing cousins with a few, minor differences. Noir patchouli opens as a dense and penetrating leathery patchouli with a fermented fruit vibe. The "fruit" rendition is rather good and in combination with the patchouli and leather, it gives the accord some teeth. From the opening blast until the finish, Noir Patchouli cannot hide its kinship with V.I.P. Specia...

Mandarin, Bergamot, Clary Sage, Cardamom, Elemi, Frankincense, Styrax, Amber, Cistus-Labdanum, Vanilla, Patchouli. Can you say smooth? Well, I can say it, but I'd prefer to wear it. Sleek and somewhat soothing, Akkad by Lubin opens with a rich accord of soft spices, subtle citrus and a balsamic, but mellow amber. Akkad  manages to be full bodied and dense while maintaining a very controlled presence. The amber in the top accord is a precursor to an excellent Labdanum yet to come. A sweet and resinous amber incrementally gains prominence the longer Akkad lives on the skin. It doesn't take one long to realize that Akkad's nature consists of soft smoke, resins, spice and balsam encapsulated in Labdanum. I wouldn't go as far to say that Akkad embodies an animalic vibe, but it suggests it during the heart stage. I get periodic whiffs that resemble something a tad feral, but it vanishes before I can get a bead on it. Come base and drydown, Akkad develops a dusty pow...

Lalique Encre Noire (2006) Every time I don  Encre Noire , I initially experience a moment of surprise at the niceness of its simple yet satisfying presentation of inkiness, dark smoky woods and green cypress. The opening is a real winner, but there's no possible way that this fragrance could ever make it into a regular rotation for me, much less become a signature scent. Why? Two words: Darth Vader . The Darth Vader effect is the name which I now associate with the complete and utter fuminess of this fragrance. Big, expansive, bloblike sillage, which continues to swell and envelop the wearer as a suit of dark armor until it is finally shed by immersing the body in a hot bubbly bath. The name came from a reviewer at Fragrantica, who correctly, I believe, identified Encre Noire  as the scent of Darth Vader. My own take on this phenomenon is that donning Encre Noire actually transforms the wearer into a type of Darth Vader metaphysical doppelg ä nger, makin...

Cassis, Clary, Bergamot, Peruvian Pepper, Magnolia, Osmanthus, Jasmine, Cedarwood, Vetiver, Patchouli, Musk, Moss. Perhaps there is something in the structure of Tzora that causes me quick, but temporary fatigue. I don't mean the complete loss of olfaction, but within minutes, I'm forced to concentrate in order to decipher what it is I'm experiencing. The volume, which started out conventional, dissipates on me within a few minutes and I find myself pressing my nose against skin to evaluate its aroma. What I do smell, I like. Tzora introduces itself with a lucid Bergamot and Pepper. The Cassis and Osmanthus lend a sedate green and floral quality which, at least on me, is quick and transitional. It only takes moments for the earth and wood tones to  supplant the opening. The subtle Vetiver-Patchouli duo accent a more dominant Cedar note and in the course of 5 minutes, Tzora has completely unfolded. I've read some good reviews extolling Tzora. The problems I h...