Il Mondo di Odore

Apple, Rosewood, Passionflower, Fig, Red Berries, Raspberries, Cassia. Muguet, Freesia, Rose, Jasmine, Orchid, White Lilly, Exotic Flowers. Sandalwood, Amber, Musk, Exotic Wood, Vanilla, Litchi. There sure is an army of notes in this brew from the house of Lauder, circa 1998. By glancing at the list of notes alone, this looks like a garden variety, fruity floral. Dazzling Gold turns out to be a fruity floriental that elevates itself over the mundane. This isn't spectacular by any means, but it does manage to lean innocuous while maintaining a well done quality. Let's just say this is good, non offensive and a rather enjoyable wear. That's more to the point. Dazzling Gold opens with an array of aroma. It's substantial and transparent at the same time. There's floral and fruit tones accented by a mild, spicy quality. There's also a greenish wood aspect to the opening accord that gives Dazzling Gold dimension. The more I try and analyze this, the more int...

Rose, Muguet. Jasmine, Cedar, Tuberose. Sandalwood, Amber. I'm amazed at the strength of the Eau de Toilette series of Tea Rose. The opening volley, if not prudently applied, will cause the Wow factor in a negative way. That said, it's such an easy problem to avoid by spraying from a distance and being easy on the trigger. Strong fragrances are economical simply due to the obvious and if they showcase one or two notes, they make terrific layering scents. Such is the case ( once again ) with The Perfumer's Workshop Tea Rose Jasmin. This isn't a soliflore like Tea Rose ( on my skin ), but it's close. My wearings of Tea Rose Jasmin bring to life two notes that come to the fore and remain there for the life of the scent. Tuberose and Jasmine predominate on me with Tuberose taking the lead during the top and heart before relinquishing control in the base. Once the Tuberose dissipates, Jasmine reveals itself more forcefully. It's been there the entire time, ...

Grapefruit, Lavender, Wormwood. Leather, Spice, Tobacco. Oud, Ambergris. The opening accord of Chopard's Oud Malaki is bracing, but not unpleasant. It's an aromatic introduction and I'm of the opinion that those who gravitate towards ouds in general will find it interesting. The rendition of Tobacco doesn't waste any time merging into the accord. It's actually a refined version ( if there is such a thing ) and I cannot help to describe it as such. Within the first 5 minutes, you will have experienced an attention getting blend of citrus, resin and tobacco. It leans masculine to my sensibilities. By the time Oud Malaki reaches its heart accord, it has become more focused,  shedding any rough edges that were displayed upon application. There are qualities of spice and a leathery spirit apparent for the remainder of the wearing, but they're not bold representations. They are more suggestive than anything and I deem them well done. The oud has been uphol...

Bergamot, Apple, Bamboo. Geranium, Jasmine. Amber, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, Musk. As I wore this fragrance today, I naturally had Mrs. Aromi take a few whiffs minutes after applying it. Once I see her cringe and wrinkle her brow ( which happens 99.72% of the time ), I awaited her reply. "Soap.......but not good soap".........and that was that. Like always, I walked away and headed to my office, chuckling under my breath so she can't see my face nor hear me. There's only one other reviewer I know who is just as tough on fragrances and that's Trebor from Basenotes. I've taken the time to read opinions on this fragrance. They're not favorable for a variety of reasons, but I suppose what the naysayers have in common is the generic quality that's abundant these days. I can't say I disagree, but where Presence Cool loses me is the base and drydown stages. The opening accord is promising, generating a fresh blast of citric fruit. I l...

Bergamot, Muguet, Rose, Jasmine, Tuberose, Cedar, Amber, Rosewood, Sandalwood. Well, so much for my trying to describe notes, accords, transitions, etc.........Perhaps I should just say that Tea Rose is a big, fat- assed Rose scent and call it good? I actually could do that, but then I wouldn't get the opportunity to be long-winded and drone on about the merits or pitfalls of the this particular fragrance. After all, what's the point of reviewing anything if you can't ( or won't ) describe it as best you can? The first thing I noticed was the price point of $9.99 for a NIW 4oz. box.  More often than not, 120ml. for ten bucks denotes an inferior fragrance. I mean, it stands to reason doesn't it? Tea Rose is one of a handful that is the exception to the rule. There are others like Lapidus and so on, but you get the idea. There's not many that can be as realistic as this and you get a gallon of it for peanuts. For those who eschew Rose in general, please ...

Mandarin, Melon, Freesia, Rose, Sandalwood, Iris. The Eau de Toilette release of Chloe is one of a few variations on the same theme. I haven't experienced the others, but do have a bottle of the EDT we are discussing. Naturally, Mrs. Aromi detests it, so it only stands to reason that I'll think it has merit. Most of the time, this "theory" holds water and once again, it proves itself to be correct. Chloe EDT is one of those fresh, yet polarizing fragrances that people either enjoy or find unwearable. That quality is usually reserved for fragrances that aren't of the "fresh" variety, yet I can see why some just can't like this scent. Chloe EDT opens airy, bracing but refreshing. The green quality is evident immediately and Chloe keeps this theme throughout the accords. I notice a subtle scratchiness inherent here, but that just could be the manner in which I process the notes as they bloom. It doesn't stop me from liking Chloe, although it...

Lemongrass, Saffron, Rose, Labdanum, Oud, Sandalwood, Patchouli. I read what I could about Jovan's Intense Oud and I suppose what intrigued me the most was it's apparent scarcity. I pulled the trigger on a few bottles and figured if I didn't like it, I could always sell it. I genuinely had hoped I'd like it. After all, more than a few had included "silky" and "niche-like" in their descriptions. In the end however, we like what we like and the numerous oud releases available are like comparing apples to apples. So many interpretations of this particular note flood the market that, what one deems a gem, another deems unfit to wear. I happen to fall in the middle here. Being that this is a "Jovan" has nothing to do with my opinion of Intense Oud. In truth, this doesn't smell like a "Jovan", but that in itself just isn't enough for me. This reminds of Oudy Woody due to it's dominant agarwood note and pungency. I ...

Cassis, Rose, Jasmine, Orange. I previously reviewed one other Dr. Vranjes 20% Extrait and once again, I have issue with the extrait label. It's not a big deal or deal breaker, but I mention it for the simple sake of accuracy. I could be mistaken and this is actually "extrait", but I doubt it. That said, it boils down to overall aroma, presence and lasting power. Rosa Cassis wears like a substantial EDT on my skin and is a very nice interpretation of Rose. While wearing and smelling this, I cannot help but conjure up the color pink. There's a fresh, stem-like quality here as well, but this reminds me of pink roses put in a vase that I have left for Mrs. Aromi. She loves them and I'm sure I don't do this often enough. Rosa Cassis is supple, feminine and extremely pleasant to my nose. If I was forced to socially categorize it, I would deem it as semi-elegant. It possesses manners by staying close while retaining a fullness to someone coming into your p...

Cedarwood, Frankincense, Leather, Musk, Thyme, Voile Blanc is yet another Arabian style sample sent to me, courtesy of CoutureGuru. As his review attests, it is distributed in a different fashion than your conventional "houses". Just the fact that a merchant can have a quality, duty-free scent created and marketed to a target audience is impressive. Too bad it isn't readily available through the normal means of purchase as Voile Blanc is well done and "adjusted" to suit palettes other than local. I say that because the west, as a whole, seems to favor "subtle yet substantial" over ostentatious. The opening of Voile Blanc is a leathery presentation accented with Incense and Woods. It's vibrant without being startling and you can tell in the first few minutes that this will come in with a smooth landing. There's nothing complicated here as the intro continues on its way until volume and presence dissipate enough to signal heart, then base...

Rose, Lime, Amber, Cedar. Ehsas is another, tempered release from Arabian Oud. The Lime and Cedar combination that greets you upon application is reminiscent of a handful of others that use this direction. The "Lime" never smells like Lime to me. Whatever that note actually is changes the complexion of the wood notes. In this case, it's Cedar along with Amber. Perhaps others experience Lime? I never do, but it certainly influences the other players in the accords. It's all good however, since the wearer is either going to like the tuning or not. If a perfumer decided to call an ingredient "skunkataneous combustus" and it performed like a well implemented rendition of civet, would it matter? The Cedar seems to be the major player on my skin as I wear Ehsas. This is especially so once the wearings develop. It's a slightly sharp version, but interesting and enjoyable. The first few minutes leads me to believe that rose will manifest and assert its...

Jasmine, Rose, Magnolia, Frangipani, Frankincense, Hibiscus. Prestige Rose is an interesting take on Rose and Incense. It's these two that rise to the top on my skin immediately upon application. The rose is such that it gives me the impression of possessing dew and dust simultaneously. It's a well done rendition and it could be that it simply reacts nicely on my skin. At any rate, I like it and there's a very mellow oud-like quality thrown in for good measure. Normally, scents of this genre storm out of the sprayer and can be a bit rambunctious for the first 5 minutes or so. At least that's what I've found to be true. That, in itself, is not a problem as most die down as the heart accord commences. Prestige Rose however, applies itself already settled, with no need to wait it out. I like the volume and presence inherent in this fragrance. As linear as it wears on me, it is full bodied and utilizes polite throw through the entire wearing. Even during the h...

Clementine, Lavender, Sage. Nutmeg, Pepper, Sage. Amber, Orris, Oakmoss, Tobacco. It was time I revisited Deauville pour Homme by Michel Germain. I didn't care for it much 4 years ago and since my tastes have evolved some, it's only fair to go back and re-sample certain releases. I have a nearly full bottle and as I wear it, it has either improved a few notches with age.......or..........I really am beginning to like certain elements I did not appreciate in the past. I still do not find it a "must have", but I'm warming up to it a bit. I wore it as my S.O.T.D and it performed well. It has occurred to me that this is better suited for colder temps and today was proof of that. It never topped 38 degrees and I was outside all day. When I initially purchased Deauville pour Homme, it was summer of 2009 and I found it heavy. I don't mean buck wild sillage, but simply "thick". The note combinations, at that time,  didn't exactly appeal to me e...

Lotus, Jasmine, Muguet, Peony, Gardenia. Rose, Tuberose, Orange Blossom. Ambrette Seed, Musk, Oakmoss, Sandalwood, Vetiver. In 2005, Ralph Lauren released Blue for women. I've only had opportunity to smell this very recently. In wearing Blue, I initially thought it was rather banal and innocuous. After a few wearings however, it occurs to me that Blue isn't exactly shallow. It may be a tad generic, but there's more here than meets the nose. Blue leans floral / aquatic to me, but in the end, does anyone really care about category.....or more importantly, the person who categorizes it? I'm a hobbyist like all of you and since I'm no expert of perfumery, I simply do my best to describe what it is I'm smelling. My "goal" is to give an accurate opinion that will hopefully steer you to ( or away ) from a particular scent. Blue opens fresh as an aquatic floral, then becomes more substantial while lowering volume and presence as it glides toward th...

Freesia, Ivy, Magnolia. Peony, Plum, Frangipani. Musk, Woods. The first inclination, with fragrances such as this, is to mentally dismiss them before trying them. Yes, it is snobbery, but I repress those knee-jerk reactions and have learned to give "everything" a whirl. In this manner, I've found some unlikely gems or, at the very least, some viable fragrances that I would have otherwise scorned. Enter Dream Angels Desire by Victoria's Secret. I picked up a 7.5ml. EDP at the local Goodwill for $1 recently and am wearing it now as we speak. It wears like a parfum, but the longevity is lacking just a bit. That said, it's evident that the most important thing is the overall performance of any given scent. Dream Angels Desire is assuredly a feminine release and surprisingly good in a demure way. There's not a boisterous stage in it and while some reviews have complained about it being "weak", I beg to differ. It simply radiates close to the s...

Amber, Oud, Sandalwood, Rose. My friend CoutureGuru sent me various samples months ago which included Arabian oils. I personally own only one CPO ( Mukhallat Malaki ) and have used about 80% of that bottle by mixing it with unscented body lotion. Marwah, on the other hand, would perform better applying it directly to the skin. It's not as strong as Mukhallat Malaki and doesn't need to be diluted. Marwah can easily be worn by both genders and is appropriate for a variety of occasions. Like a lot of these oils, there seems to be a bit more included than the listed accords, but the ones mentioned are the obvious players. Marwah, at least on my skin, displays dusty Rose more than it does oud. Complimenting the rose note is something akin to mild lavender with a subtle soap aspect. It's rather nice and seems to temper the entire composition. Everything about Marwah is laid back and fit for a relaxing situation. I'm not insinuating that it's not elegant, it...

Agarwood, Rose, Amber, Agarwood, Musk. Wearing Amber Ood by Rasasi at once signals a linear scent with hints of ingredients not listed. I liked this from the moment I dabbed it on my skin. Marketed to women, this is definitely wearable for men as Agarwood seems to be the great equalizer, regardless of how predominant it is or isn't in a given composition. In Amber Ood, the oud is represented more politely than usual and permits the floral, resin and sensual tones to seep through. It's tuned rather well for western sensibilities and as the heart accord commences, the oud takes even more of a back seat to what smells like a moist Rose and Jasmine duo to me. The opening of Amber Ood is a version of agarwood that's smooth like a well aged scotch. I'm not referring to "quality or refinement", but a rather enjoyable subtlety. The rendition is noticeable, but in a passive manner. It's also merged with floral and balsam to produce a mildly sweet, interesti...

Clementine, Sage, Genevieve, White Pepper, White Thyme, Amber, Orris, Blonde Pipe Tobacco. I own only one other Germain fragrance, Deauville pour Homme. I reviewed it 4 years ago or so and wasn't that impressed. That one is on my list to revisit, but as I wear Tattoo, I'm experiencing a house similarity that pertains to whatever platform this is built on, along with the denseness inherent in both. Tattoo is yet another tobacco offering, but that's not a bad thing. There's always room for another, as long as it's well done. Even better if you find one as cheap as I found Tattoo. I believe I paid $9.99 for a NIB 100ml. The bone I have to pick with Tattoo for Him is that musky, base foundation that is also in Deauville. The theme that seems to be threaded throughout numerous offerings from Germain is sexual or sensual. Now, I have no way of knowing if his other releases share this house "muskiness" since I haven't tried them. In the two I own, i...

Clementine, Cucumber, Lavender. Cardamom, Basil, Pepper. Ambrene, Cashmeran, Patchouli, Tobacco, Musk. I first tried CK One Shock for Men from a tester at a local clothing retailer. I was purchasing a leather blazer and a few other things for work and this was sitting on the counter by the register. Other than CK One, not much from the house of Klein has inspired me to buy. I blasted 2 healthy sprays on the back of my hand as I waited for my receipt. I remember thinking what a strange, sweet but oddly compelling scent it was. On my way home, I continued to smell the hand I sprayed it on. It reminded me of an effervescent drink spilled on a cloth that someone had already blown cigarette smoke through. Strange? You betcha. Within 10 minutes, Shock for Men settled down from its spirited introduction to a heart consisting of sweetened, spicy tobacco with balsamic accents. This is the soul of Shock for Him and although it transitions slightly from here, its identity is in the he...