Il Mondo di Odore

Stunning.....but confusion reigns ! Arabian Oud has fast become a favorite source to get my Oud fix. There is, however, a dearth of information regarding these fragrances and what is available is immensely confusing. Shabby for a prestige house IMHO. This Mukhallat is a case in point. Their UK website lists the notes as follows : Top : Egyptian Jasmine Heart : Bulgarian Rose, Vanilla Base : White Oud, Plant Amber On their Middle Eastern site (assuming it's the main site) their notes are listed as : Top : Galbanum, Shepherd's Needle, Lemon Heart : Clove, Cinnamon, Lavender, Rose, Jasmine Base : Vanilla, Vetiver, Musk, Amber, Cedar, Patchouli, Sandal These sound like 2 different fragrances, albeit with similarities. There is also discrepancy regarding the name. The packaging I have lists it as "SHIOUKH", while the U.K. site spells it "SHIYOUKH". To complicate it further, the main site deciphers it as "SHEYOKH". Tres bizarre...

Aldehyde, Bergamot, Lemon, Neroli, Peach, Strawberry. Carnation, Jasmine, Muguet, Orris Root, Rose, Rosewood, Ylang Ylang. Amber, Benzoin, Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Vetiver. I recently stumbled across this bottle locally and purchased it. I knew nothing about it except it looked interesting and extremely old. I never would have believed it was from 1933 because of the condition of the bottle and the smell of the juice. The serial number is #3009. My first reaction was amazement that this is actually a feminine fragrance. Even in extended drydown when the scent is the most vulnerable and soft, it comes off as a classic masculine from either the 60's or 70's to me. The opening of Embrujo de Sevilla is a dark mixture of Citrus and spicy Carnation. The Carnation evokes the classic masculine aura and has a borderline after shave quality to it. I can only guess that the Neroli, Peach and Strawberry haven't survived old age too well, but one can tell Citrus is...

Lilac, Magnolia, Cyclamen, Muguet, Rose. I suppose the most surprising thing to me about Jessica McClintock's Number 3 is what I've seen it selling for at auction. Don't get me wrong. Number 3 isn't a malevolent scent by any means. I actually find it rather nice, but the price point being asked is a little rich. It seems it would be more appropriate if it were selling for about half of what it's going for, but that's just one mans opinion. That aside, Number 3 opens with a predictable floral array. It's pleasant, clean and lucid. The undercurrent tilts slightly green and reminds me ( once again ) of a freshly snapped stem. There's also a subtle ozonic quality in the opening. The overall feel of Number 3 is innocuous to me. It's more pleasant than harmless, but it's not something to choose if one is trying to make a statement or be noticed. It is something to reach for however if you have the need to smell transparently floral. The Mag...

Some time ago I received a sample of a fragrance called l'âme soeur by Parfums Divine as a gift in a perfume swap. It took me a while to try, but when I did I was absolutely astounded!! I couldn't believe that I had never heard of this French niche house before ... and what was coming off my arm was sheer heaven. I ordered their sample coffret and so began a really plush little journey into the olfactive art of Yvon Mouchel, créateur de DIVINE. From the outset, the experience has been one of absolute class and efficiency. The fabulous Aurélie (le service Clients DIVINE) kept me up to date with the status of my order from the time that I placed it to the time it left their offices to wing it's way to me. Postage was super fast (I waited less than a week from France to South Africa ... unheard of!!) and when I opened the outer box what greeted me inside was a superbly and securely gift wrapped parcel of elegantly presented samples. Who takes the time these days t...

Sandalwood, Osmanthus, Ambergris, Tonka Bean. I'm compelled to add another review of Bois de Santal because of scoring a bottle in the original packaging. It is a bit different than my sample from the current black bottle and the same thing occurred when I purchased an original bottle of Sanguine and compared that to the current rendition. Both bottles in the original packaging are deeper, stronger and longer lasting than the current. This is especially so with Sanguine. What a terrific surprise that was as it has great projection and lasts over 8 hours on me. The differences between the Bois de Santal versions are not as pronounced, but still evident to me. What I notice most in the original Bois de Santal is the sandalwood note itself. It's definitely more evident than the black bottle and is a borderline creamy version. The opening has what I believe is bergamot in the mix, but it's very short lived and I could also be mistaken. More obvious is the oncoming san...

Citrus, Licorice. Star Anise, Cocoa, Violet. Patchouli, Sandal, Cedar, Agarwood. I originally reviewed this about 3 years ago, but I cannot account for where I placed it. I was going to revise it, but now cannot find my original opinion. The only thing I recall about the review was that I liked it in spite of it being an Avon product. That has not changed. As a matter of fact, it would be safe to say I regard it higher than I did previously. I have been periodically wearing it over the years and have grown to respect it more. As far as I can tell, Barbara Zoebeleuvin was the perfumer and she did a very respectable job.  Tomorrow for Him opens with a substantial and dense accord consisting of Anise, Cocoa and Patchouli. The assist lent from a bit of Citrus and Violet is a positive one. They add a vibrancy to what would normally be a gritty gourmand introduction. Even with those two notes accenting, the opening is still thick, sweet and borderline edible. The standout not...

Bergamot, Yuzu, Coriander. Violet Flowers, Lavender, Violet Leaves. Musk, Patchouli, Blue Cedar, White Amber. Recently, I won a bottle of this in auction and having never smelled it beforehand, I fully expected to like it. I held out hope because the Cartier's I have tried or own have not let me down, regardless of whether I loved them or not. They have a certain something........... The thing I was a little apprehensive about was the implementation of violet. That particular note either sells me on a scent or is a deal breaker, depending on the tuning and balance of it in the overall scheme of the scent. When I initially applied Eau de Cartier, I knew immediately that this possessed a rendition of violet I could not only live with, but enjoy. It's a sheer version of the note that has a soft soul. There's no rough edges to be found and interacts perfectly with its confederates. Eau de Cartier is mildly aromatic upon application, but quickly settles into a soft...

Green Notes, Fruit Notes, Mint, Tarragon, Bergamot. Cyclamen, Magnolia, Tuberose, Orris Root, Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang, Rose, Muguet. Sandalwood, Amber, Musk, Civet, Oakmoss, Cedar. I recently picked up a 55ml. spray of this at a local discount store. Naturally, I spritzed it to make sure it  hadn't turned before shelling out the enormous sum of $.50. My initial reaction wasn't to recoil or to swoon. The Garden it advertises may give one the suggestion of florals, but it's a generic attempt at best. To be fair, Le Jardin is actually pretty good as far as budget scents go. The opening is what I deem as the deal breaker for those who don't care for this fragrance. Aldehyde isn't listed, but I'm guessing that Aldehyde Cyclamen was used here. Some have tagged it as a  "hairspray" accord and I can understand that. I get an effervescent mish mash of green and citrus. It's more fizzy than shimmering and I usually relegate certain Lutens as possess...

Mandarin, Apple, Bergamot, Orange, Grapefruit. Freesia, Muguet, Rose, Orchid. Amber, Musk, White Lily, Magnolia, Mimosa. Having worn Happy by Clinique, when opportunity arose, over the last few weeks, has seen me gradually being won over. I can't say I love it because that would be an outright lie. I have however grown to like it. At least in my wearings, Happy has exhibited Citrus and Lily with an undercurrent of Anise. There's a soft green quality in the mix that's just sweet enough to be enjoyable and a little different. I understand that Anise is not listed in the accords, but I can smell it intermittently when nose is to skin. The opening is an alcoholic blast that subsides into an unraveling citric accord. Hints of grapefruit try to bleed through the dominant orange rendition. This is a subtler rendition of orange than say masculine fragrances that showcase this note up front. It's a lucid and feminine introduction once the alcohol settles down. Afte...

It's been a hot summer, not one conducive to the appreciation of fine and subtle scents such as the Hermès  Hermessences. Things have now cooled down, however—at least momentarily—so I'm back at last to wrap up this series ! Today I'm covering the two members of the Hermessences about which I have not changed my mind at all since my first testing of them a while back. Well, maybe just a little... HERMESSENCE OSMANTHE YUNNAN (2005) I may have mentioned somewhere before that I am not that keen on yunnan tea, despite being an avid tea drinker in general. It's definitely more inviting to me than either jasmine or oolong tea—or, say, pu-erh—but yunnan is a kind of meh tea experience for me. Small wonder, then, that my least favorite of the Hermessences turns out to be this one. This may simply be a case of “familiarity breeds...” well, not exactly contempt, since I do not positively dislike wearing this fragrance. Still, I don't dream about it. The tea note...

Red Roses, Mint, Violet Leaf, Lemon. My initial wearing of Red Roses by Jo Malone left me indifferent. Subsequent wearings however have persuaded me to believe that my first try was simply a "bad day" for smelling anything. I don't know about any of you, but I have periods of time that my olfactory doesn't seem to have clarity. This is why I sample a fragrance numerous times these past few years. It allows me to be fair and as accurate as I can muster about what I'm giving an opinion on. I think what threw me off  initially is the pairing of Rose with Spearmint and Violet Leaf. It's not exactly mainstream, but sampling it numerous times has allowed me to appreciate the concept. The Rose rendition was very good, even in the initial wearing, yet performs even better now that my nose seems to be back on track. The opening of Red Roses displays a wet, juicy lemon that is immediately inundated by a moist rose and what I perceive as slightly bitter leaf. T...

Mandarin, Bergamot, Grapefruit. Gardenia, Rhododendron, Freesia, Rose. Amber. From its opening to the finish, Intuition by Lauder is about as calm and inoffensive a fragrance that you will find. I didn't mind that the rendition of floral components weren't exactly realistic. The suggestion was enough for me and the absence of anything caustic or grating in the composition was gratifying. Now, does this Lauder creation "look inside" or become contemplative? Well, I've worn it enough by now to say it doesn't lend any incisive reasoning my way. In its defense however, I will say it breaks no rules in naming scent. As far as I know, there's usually no rhyme or reason other than them narrowing down a name for marketing and then going with it. Intuition opens with a smooth citrus and has grapefruit in the lead role. This note isn't sharp or very tart and no sooner you identify it, a leafy quality inserts itself into the accord. I keep thinking I...

Pink Pepper, Green Notes, Freesia, Violet, Pink Berries, Tuberose. White Lily, Peony, Muguet, Baie Rose, Black Lilac, Karo-Karounde, Geranium, Jasmine. Sandalwood, Patchouli, Cedar, Musk. One of the things I noticed after wearing Pleasures a few times is that, as sheer as it opens and eventually develops, it possesses more presence than one realizes. It's clean and slightly green with an herbal aspect that lingers throughout the life of the scent. I asked Mrs. Aromi what she thought of it. She immediately replied laundry detergent and cotton balls. All rightttttttyyyyyyy then........ Unlike my better half, I perceive a completely different aroma, but I will say that I understand hers. She has an extremely simplistic approach when smelling scent and I do not mean that in a derogatory way. As I continued smelling Pleasures after she gave her brief opinion, this aroma would actually make a very good residual scent for a detergent or softener. The Pink Pepper and Freesia in...

Passion Flower, Green Osmanthus, Gardenia, Calendula, Blue Rose, Tiger Lily. Heliotrope, Cyclamen, Jasmine, Lilac, Orchid. Amber, Musk, Sandalwood, Cedar. I'm not quite sure why I like the bitterness of Marigold. "Bite" may not be the best word to describe what that note does for me, but Marigold always has an edge when I smell it. I own an old school masculine ( M de Morabito )  that has an obvious Marigold implementation. It's off putting and fascinating at the same time. At the very least, it keeps me sniffing away when I choose to wear it. Wings ( at least on my skin ) is a floral fest with a slew of notes jostling for attention. It has commendable blending for such a bargain fragrance, yet it is an extroverted scent by today's sensibilities. I've tried applying different amounts and have found when I over indulge by even a little, Wings is somewhat obnoxious and screechy. A deft touch however produces an enjoyable wearing. This is a floral woo...

Plum, Peach, Anise, Orange Blossom, Rose, Violet. Tuberose, Ylang Ylang, Carnation, Honey, Orchid, Jasmine, Muguet, Freesia, Wild Lily, Rose. Heliotrope, Benzoin, Cedar, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Amber, Musk. Depending upon how much someone applies this and at what stage of development you happen to encounter Red Door, it can either come across as crass and slightly overbearing or an extremely clean and penetrating feminine. I say that because I have smelled this over the years on various women. On some of them I enjoy it immensely and on others.......well........not so much. There is one particular co-worker of mine who wears this exclusively. For whatever reason, it smells completely different on her than it does me ( as I sample it ) or others who I know wear it. On her, the sillage is perfect and the aroma is akin to a rendition of soapy lavender. It smells nothing like that on me however. She has told me she will mist herself twice and call it good. The only times I have smel...

Litchi, Freesia. Magnolia, Ginger, Pepper, Jasmine, Mandarin. Jasmine, Musk, Amber. Harry Fremont and Alberto Morillas created Miracle in 2000. As usually is the case, some women love this feminine, some intensely dislike it, while others are seemingly indifferent. I cannot claim to love it, but I surely don't dislike it. Miracle has proven to be a much more substantial fragrance than I had anticipated it to be. When I see a "pinkish" scent, I automatically assume it will turn out to be a fruity floral of little consequence. Once again, this hobby has proven me misdirected. Up close and in your personal space, Miracle is rather full and encompassing. Its sillage is misleading as it doesn't exactly project in an impressive fashion. However, get near the individual wearing this and you will experience a rather pleasant feminine fragrance. The suggestion of fruit is evident throughout the transitions. There's a sweet and juicy quality I cannot contribut...

Jasmine, Musk. Well, the listed notes are Jasmine and Musk, but it's safe to say there's a little more in the mix than those two. Heaven is linear, light, fresh and a very easy wear, but I wonder if there isn't some implementation of Lily, Moss and some Cyclamen? I seem to experience them, but I could be incorrect. This mid 1990's release is yet another I have unwittingly stumbled upon, only to find that it's refreshingly simple and comfortable to wear. It feels "white" with green overtones and reminds me of something that would be perfectly suited for office wear. Heaven leans just a bit more feminine than anything, but I'm of the persuasion to wear what smells good to me. This is lucid and clean enough that I would assuredly wear this in the hot months with no reservations. I really believe men could pull this one off due to how transparent the white and green tones are. The Jasmine is present, but it's not an overt implement...