Il Mondo di Odore

Pineapple, Peach, Gardenia, Jasmine, Rose, Muguet, Clove, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Musk, Benzoin, Vanilla. I have come back to this particular fragrance around 5 times. This is not exactly an easy one to wrap your head around. I do not believe I have ever smelled a protracted opening that consisted of pineapple and decaying florals resting on, or near, a gasket. Does it sound crazy? I'll bet it does, but I deliberately wore this frequently and get the same impression each and every time. As I wear 1804 for the final time, I once again get the exact same accord in the opening and it has commendable longevity as it has in the previous sample wears. I have no other way to describe what it is I'm smelling. It's as if pineapple chunks are placed on top of a rubber mat near a discarded bouquet. I wanted to like 1804 George Sand, but this opening and heart are making it extremely difficult. It's not unpleasant, but I have no wish to smell like this; especially for such...

Poppy Seed, Bergamot, White Musk. Pink Pepper, Cinnamon. Amber, Cocoa, Vanilla. This particular scent quite possibly has the largest amount of differing perceptions than any fragrance I've recently sampled. That, in itself, is very interesting and I'm more than happy to throw my 2 cents into the ring. During the opening of Piment Brulant, I experience a quiet, watery aspect underneath a gourmand like spice. The spice is very even keeled, but does possess a food quality that's difficult for me to pinpoint. I work with food for a living, so it has a familiar ring to it, but nothing definitive. Within minutes, a soft pepper note integrates, but it's on the tame side and it's as if I'm waiting for something else to evolve during this top accord. As it happens, it doesn't go any farther, but it's still a rather pleasant opening. Now, as cliched as it may sound, a note resembling the skin of a bell pepper does emerge in the heart accord. I can'...

Verveine, Rosemary, Bergamot, Jasmine Tea, Cedar, Gaiac Wood, Vanilla, Honey, Tonka Bean. I take, with a grain of salt, the categorizations of scents on sites such as LS, since I find numerous ones unsuitable for one gender or the other in spite of it being tagged "unisex". Vanithe is a feminine fragrance and while nice, I wouldn't attempt full wearings simply because they are countless others that smell as good or better and genuinely straddle the fence of gender. Naturally, there are many more parfums that wear more "feminine" than Vanithe and some men may find Vanithe completely appropriate to wear. That's a personal choice that has to be made. I have already made mine. With that said, Vanithe is a well made floral woody that, on my skin at least, showcases a Jasmine with citrus, herbal elements and a very, shadowy tea note. The opening of Vanithe affords me the best glimpse of the tea rendition. It's intertwined with an extremely likable ...

Pepper, Elemi, Iris, Oud, Saffron, Castoreum, Vanilla, Sandalwood, Amber. Very recently, I was impressed with Edition Rare Petroleum. I enjoyed it enough to put it on the potential purchase list. Histoires de Parfums is piquing my interest with some very respectable releases. Ambrarem is the most unapologetic of the Edition Rare series. The peppery introduction is just that; an intro to what will soon become a slightly smoky, woody leather with resin. There's nothing crude here. Apparently, all the edginess was deliberately left to be experienced, yet it's completely appropriate since there's an animalic quality at work here. Ambrarem transitions from its spicy opening to the darker heart accord with absolute ease. Everything listed here will manifest itself for your smelling pleasure. The heart evolves a smoky core with embellishments from oud and saffron. Like Petroleum, the tuning here is key. This is not oud overkill. This is resiny oud showcased in a way ...

Citrus, Neroli, Coriander, Nutmeg, Lavender, Sage, Cinnamon, Clove, Cashmere, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Vetiver, Oakmoss. First off, my apologies for the image. It's the 100ml. bottle I used to own years ago and fortunately it was still in my Photobucket account. I couldn't find an online image of it anywhere, so.......we're stuck using this one. The sprayer screwed on and off like the vintage MPG bottles. I love bottles with that design for the ease in which you can decant. I no longer have the bottle, but I stored a good amount for reference purposes in atomizers. I posted a review somewhere a long time ago and although I cannot recall details, I do remember that I found it very ordinary and faulted it for that alone. T. Gregory for Men is still rather ordinary after revisiting it, but I now can appreciate the fragrance for its ease of wear and overall pleasantness. I perceive it to be a good choice for when you want to smell very nice without raising an eyebrow ( in...

Karo Karound, Rum, Oud, Mahogany, Leather, Opoponax. It's taken me all this time to finally get around to sampling Sequoia. I was expecting an impressive scent and admit to walking away unimpressed. Perhaps this is due to my trying some exceptional fragrances lately and anything less than that would appear mundane. It also could very well be that Sequoia simply is an average release that has succeeded in underwhelming me. Regardless of the reason, Sequoia smells adequate and that's not a crime. It really means it will never make it into my wardrobe as a purchase. Sequoia possesses a very unique floral component that performs like a foundation that the rest is built upon. Sure, there's wood here, but all incorporated notes seem encapsulated in this floral perspiration that's present for the first half of the wearings. It's acceptably different, but does nothing to persuade me that Sequoia is a bottle worthy fragrance. The suggestions of booze, oud, leathe...

Parfumerie Générale L'OMBRE FAUVE (2007) A roaring lion fresh from the hunt is transformed into a purring kitty as he licks the blood from his paws and prepares for a lengthy nap, his body fully extended under the golden sun slowly setting over the savanna. This wild cat casts a long, broad shadow. This is L'Ombre Fauve , a rich amber perfume which opens with a decidedly animalic quality but is swiftly tamed into a lustrous, luscious labdanum amber which is still on the dark side but not at all sharp. As neither leather nor civet is listed among the notes, I'm wondering whether the musk employed here is one of the more realistic, animalic varieties. On the other hand, since the drydown is not at all skanky (and I am very sensitive to musks), it could be that the dark woods are somehow conjuring this effect in my mind? Or perhaps this is authentic, straight-from-nature ambergris or one of the components of its reasonable facsimiles (ambreine). There is n...

Oud, Bergamot, Aldehyde. Rose, Oud, Amber. Oud, Civet Absolute, Leather, Patchouli, White Musk. Yowza ! So, you like your openings full of smoky and leathery oud do you? This is slightly charred embers still hot and wrapped inside a leather satchel. The leather isn't burnt, but the heat has been building up inside of it. There's intermittent, olfactory references to Mona di Orio's Cuir, but they are more akin to passing nods of acknowledgement. I'm referring to the smoke and leather when I make that statement.  Petroleum is also a chameleon and does not remain this way for long. Impressive to say the least and what's more admirable is the way Petroleum evolves through each stage of development. As the smoky leather and wood settle and dissipate some, a resinous amber begins pushing its way into the accord. It smells like labdanum to me, but regardless, it's very welcome and a terrific, complimentary note. The oud is soft but firm and a polite mainsta...

Lemon, Basil, Thyme. Geranium, Rose, Orris, Vetiver. Patchouli, Tobacco, Moss, Cedar. To the very best of my ability, these notes are in the accords. I have put off posting a review on Vermeil for Men simply because I could find no listed notes anywhere in my searches. It would be dishonest of me not to mention this, but the notes I posted are ones I believe comprise this particular masculine. That aside, I mentioned Vermeil in my Davidoff Classic review as being "Davidoff Lite". I have not changed my mind and have done yet another side by side comparison to ensure I still perceive it the same way. I do and it is as I remember it to be. Vermeil is a smooth version of Davidoff. It has less edginess and this is noticeable from the opening to the drydown. The opening accord is semi-aromatic and if you're a fan of herbs and citrus, you may just enjoy this. The aura of tobacco is evident within a minute and there's no denying that the bottle, configured like a ...

Orange Blossom, Vanilla, Benzoin, Opoponax, Myrrh, Incense. My first thought after wearing Sweet Redemption is that it leans slightly feminine, but definitely not enough to dissuade me. That's simply the result of Blossom and the oriental theme being the bedrock of this fragrance. After just a few minutes, I am convinced that either gender can successfully pull this off. Mrs. Aromi gave me her usual truncated and comical review of what it smelled like on my skin. Her response was immediate and through pursed lips and furrowed brow, she exclaimed that it smelled like extremely pungent cotton candy that was at least a week old. I cannot say I share her sentiment, but I always get a kick out of her opinions. Sweet Redemption is a very substantial scent. There's contrasts here as the blossom seems to grate ever so slightly against the myrrh. The spicy quality that lives in Sweet Redemption is supple due to the balsam that is prominent. The smokiness here is of a differ...

Orange, Plum, Cinnamon, Absinthe, Rose, Iris, Patchouli, Musk. I suppose I was hoping to be surprised when I chose this and placed the sample in my cart. Reading the listed notes and a smattering of reviews, I did not hold it in high regard ( blind ), but I've been known to be won over by scents that I have no anticipation for. Moulin Rouge is feminine as expected. I wasn't exactly impressed with the Can-Can descriptions because, if it indeed smelled like the promotional filler, I would surely find it too retro for my tastes. Let's just say that Moulin Rouge straddles the fence between then and now. The opening and heart are nods to the past and the base ( at least to me ) is a bit more in keeping with current tastes. My initial impression was that of a leather purse chock full of mascaras and tubes of assorted lipstick. The suggestion of leather is tangible, yet it's not an aspect that lasts the life of the scent. It's realized in the heart accord, then s...

Aldehydes, Violet Leaves, Orange Blossom, Cardamom, Black Pepper, Ginger. Beeswax, Cyclamen, Linden Blossom, Lavender, Leather. Gurjam Balm, Patchouli, Myrrh, Cedarwood, Tonka Bean, Oakmoss, White Musk, Vanilla, Amber. Sartorial is an interesting, shape-shifting masculine that leans more formal in its opening and heart than it does in the base and drydown. The top accord is a study in contrasts to me. Sharp, sweet and  spicy on an underlying smoothness greets you the first few minutes of its life. I find it a nice accord that's definitely in keeping with either a suit and tie affair or an event along those lines. It's also well balanced with very acceptable projection due to the aromatic properties inherent in it. The heart of Sartorial finds the Orange Blossom coming to the fore just enough to embellish the subtle transition. The use of Blossom pitted against violet and lavender is strangely enjoyable. Other tugs of war are raging at this stage of the wearing. Ear...

Lavender, Amber, Tonka Bean, Iris, Wood, Incense. It's always amusing reading reviews of The Serge's creations. His appeal is apparently enough to warrant a prodigious output, yet the opinions cover the entire spectrum. Why should Gris Clair be any different? The "house feel" is evident in the opening and I get this somewhat weird chewing gum-lavender shaving cream vibe. It is extremely short lived and quickly transitions to a more conventional lavender. There's also a grainy quality assimilated with the dominant lavender note. This could be attributed to some resin and woodiness, but with The Serge, who's to say for certain? One thing is for sure and that is that Gris Clair isn't your run of the mill lavender frag. The next transition exposes Gris Clair as the lavender woody it really is. A smokiness gradually becomes more pronounced and reveals a charring that isn't from a recent event. It's akin to something burned in the past and you ...

Bergamot, Petitgrain, Lavender, Galbanum. Jasmine, Orange Blossom, Lilly of the Valley, Daffodil. Cedar, Oakmoss, Ylang Ylang. The first thing I took notice of when wearing Love and Tears was its opening presence and how feminine this was. Not quite a soliflore, it is an interpretation of Jasmine with some very mild accents. I believe this is marketed as shared, so this should be kept in mind when ordering a sample. Love and Tears cannot help but lean a bit sweet. The Jasmine is front and center and the first, subtle shift in gears seems to be hints of Petitgrain and Blossom. Everything here is simply augmenting the Jasmine note, but they do succeed in altering the texture just enough for the wearer to take note. The floral character of Love and Tears never sways. Ylang and Muguet make sure of that and on my skin they propel the Jasmine on its merry way. A subtle, underlying green is present and it reminds me of the tender stem taken from a flowering plant. It's as if y...

Bergamot, Citrus, Grapefruit, Licorice. Lavender, Star Anise. Vanilla, Almond, Sandalwood, Cedar, Amber. Histoires de Parfums 1725 starts off with what I consider an excellent citrus accord with hints of sweet thrown in the mix. The licorice and anise add a terrific contrast to the tart grapefruit note. This is an enjoyable opening that lasts a few minutes before transforming into the heart. The grapefruit note is suggestive on me and not literal. Either way, it works like it's supposed to and like a runner in the 100 yard dash, it's all over but the crying in the proverbial blink of an eye. Well.......maybe not that quickly, but you get the gist. Categorized as a fougere, the emergence of van-amber cast this in the fougiental arena for me. Personally, I no longer put much stock into classifications. If you're testing in a department store or at home sampling, does it matter? What counts is if it smells good and works for you. The vanilla note is reminiscent o...

Mandarin, Bergamot, Lemon, Geranium. Leather, Ylang Ylang, Jasmine, Iris, Rose, Vanilla, Musk, Ambergris, Patchouli, Cedar, Sandalwood. It's always nice to wear a release by this house. Even the ones I don't care for manage to gain my respect in some fashion. Cuir Fetiche is a leathery floral that, in reality, is suitable for either gender. The opening leans a bit feminine for me, but it evolves within minutes to appease my need for a more obvious and masculine character. The citric top is bright, almost sparkly with an immediate contribution from jasmine. This salutation is very good and a testament to the excellent blending that manifests in the remainder of the fragrance. Within 5 minutes, Cuir Fetiche has shed its initial greeting of citrus and morphs into leathery-floral mode. This stage is androgynous and smells dense without the usual heaviness. The entire floral array contributes and by the heart accord, the result is a realization of all the listed notes yo...

Mandarin, Blue Cypress, Bergamot, Carrot Seed. Marjoram, Black Leather. Ebony, Amber, Musk, Cardamom, Sandalwood, Atlas Cedar, Vetiver Root, Agarwood, Black Moss. When Dirty English was released in 2008, I sampled it a few times and then posted a review. I cannot recall how I perceived it because I misplaced my initial opinion of it in cyberspace somewhere. I do remember liking it to a certain degree, but I'm certain my perceptions of all fragrances have evolved somewhat since then. I have had a bottle for a few years now and keep it in rotation for the cooler months. Dirty English for Men is funky. A good funky to be more accurate. Even though the agarwood doesn't come to fruition until about 5 minutes in and has dissipated by drydown, it is responsible for the funkataneous combustion that breathes life into the soul of this scent. I've smelled this rendition before, only stronger in other agarwood fragrances. Dirty English isn't an agarwood scent however. ...

Rose Petals, Citrus. Saffron, Incense, Rose Absolute. Amber, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Oud. The very first thing I took notice of after wearing Rosam was its similarities to Czech & Speake's Dark Rose. The differences are very slight and I've found Rosam's drydown to reveal a softer finish due to how the amber is tuned. With that said, Rosam is very nice and every bit as good as Dark Rose. Rosam is more about Rose and Saffron than it is oud on my skin. The "oud" is suggested more than implemented. Like Dark Rose and numerous Montale's, the "oud" in Rosam will be very recognizable to those who have been testing these waters the past few years. I own Dark Rose because it performs well on me. Rosam is like it's identical twin and it would be redundant for me to own both. Even identical twins have subtle differences that are evident to those familiar with them. After a side by side comparison, that tiny difference in their drydowns is en...